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They were growing a little bit laggy because they didn't geht enough light. I planted them so deep in the ground that they're not laggy anymore. Now my ladies getting enough light to grow strong ;) Hopefully the temperatures stay above 32 °F/ 0°C. If you want to see my second side and more go and visit my YouTube channel: Grow Before Hoe! (link: https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCtbdEJVLLj94qNQbOmxGR1g/feed ) 😉 Keep Growing! 👍

As you can see they are still growing. No nutrients added yet. We let the soil dry out and leave it dry for a full day before re watering. We do not want any root rot. The plants will tell you what they need.

Ho aggiunto 600watt led per questa settimana, la prossima saranno tolti. Ho iniziato anche a diminuire le ore di luce da 12-12 a 11-13, toglierò 30 Min al giorno fino ad arrivare a 10-14 3° giorno della 4° settimana di fioritura Ho dato 10ml di fosforo per pianta Iniziano a gonfiare i calici e la produzione di resina si intensifica 🤤 Le amo 4° giorno 4° settimana fioritura Tolte foglie prendi sole Tirato un po' di più i rami per miglior esposizione alla luce e più passaggio aria Grazie per l'attenzione stay tuned🤟🐵🤟

Week 14 (2-5 to 8-5) 2-5 Temperature: 27.3 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 69% (highest) 52% (lowest) Watering: 2000 ml. 3-5 Temperature: 24.2 degrees (lights on) 19.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 68% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: None. No pictures. Increased the light's power output to 90% LUX: 22.500 4-5 Temperature: 24.1 degrees (lights on) 20.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 63% (highest) 43% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. 5-5 Temperature: 24.8 degrees (lights on) 20.3 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 43% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. No pictures. 6-5 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: None. 7-5 Temperature: 24.4 degrees (lights on) 19.2 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 66% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. 8-5 Temperature: 24.2 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 48% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml.

Not much to add , first week of flower down

Fastbuds Frostbanger 75days from seed

They grow vigorous and strong.. need to do a good training to manage growspace.. huge leaves!

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 The end is close now, Buds keep bumping and frosty, I've started the flush this end week, Harvest in few days, look delicious 😋. 💧Give water each 2 or 3 days 1,5l Water + Nutri NPK Bloom Boost 1,5l Water + Flash Cleaner PH @6 - Nutri NPK Bloom boost 1/4 tsp for 1 gal. 💡Mars Hydro - SP 3000 100% 54 cm. 🔥 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💚🌲. Mars Hydro - SP 3000 💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light NUTRI NPK 💥🔥 https://www.nutrinpk.com/product/npk-mix-pak-for-4-to-5-plants-cannabis-fertilizer/ SweetSeeds - Sweet Mandarine Zkittlez XL Auto🌲🌲 https://sweetseeds.es/en/autoflowering-seeds/3233-sweet-mandarine-zkittlez-xl-auto.html

Week 6

Prepared the soil 12 days ago and prepared the pots at the day i put the seeds into glass of water. I used 50% Dope Light and 50% Coco as light mix for the top layer I used 50% Dope Soil and 50% Reused Soild + Additives to reactivate my old soil.

The plants grew well this week, as did all the clones. Any extra rooted clones have been planted outdoors as a further experiment. We moved all the clones into a Veg room. Even though the large room is not in flower and still also in veg, we had to separate the plants due to lack of space. Also setting up for mother, clones and SOG in the future. The plants were defoliated and training continued. There are 2 weeks of Veg left hoping to have some very large plants for flowering. Aiming for large flowers.

These girls are starting off the week getting blasted by the Sun and heat. I had to increase the water dramatically. Pots are short and because the heat and lack of humidity they are having to be drenched. Day 2 of this week, I'm noticing some ph imbalance. I don't have ro water and my tap is 7.6 ph. I'm going to water today with 5.8 ph water and see if they green up. I also took down a tree that was shading that little one. That should speed up it's development. The 10 mph winds blew one of these over on day 1 this week. I'm propping it back up on day 2 and it should straighten out. End of day 3, everyone got some organic soil acidifier. They greened up nicely. The smallest plant this week had its new growth eaten. Ants, grasshopper, I've got a big question mark there, but she's still alive. The week finished nicely. Plants are finally getting into the super soil and taking off. The extreme heat has been tuff on them but fastbuds can handle it.

Great veg week. Its an increased nutrient week. Only issue was slightly high ph in soil, so I added a little more vinegar to my water. On previous grows, I would do my LST tie downs on approx day 31-33, but growth was really good, and over 10" on 7 of 9 plants, so tied down early on those 7, on day 28. Great color and stalk girth so far.

Week 13 not a bad week if I do say so my self …guna tie down this week and begin spraying silver thiosulfate on donor plants then next week I’ll throw the donor plants into flower and begin the actual breeding project …which ever specimen reverses first shall be collected and used to pollinate which ever one doesnt will be killed and removed acord

Well had to harvest early. bud rot was making its way through the plant had already pulled 2 heads off covered didn't want any more being affected. So it's now chopped and drying will give more of an update after she's dryed n cured... Its been a good grow right up untill the end ventilation was lacking and temps hot. I've enjoyed it tho this plants tested some of my skills on diffieciencys and training really like the strain just abit more attention to environment nearing the buds getting very dense.

Welcome to week 4 of the LSD-25 grow. Training her has kept me busy all week. Everyday small adjustments have been made to the LST. Since these grow so fast, I started to removed smaller bud sites and some fan leaves. By doing this, she should start focusing her energy where I want to. I was able to collect rain water for her this week with a dose of Mammoth P. This coming week I'll be brewing her some compost tea as per BioTabs recommendation. Majority of the training is complete and I am pleased with the results. It's just a matter of time before she is in full bloom. Looking forward to seeing how chunky and purple her buds turn out. At Day 5 of this week, she's already showing some purpose on her main stem

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.