So far so good. Don’t think I’m gonna do any type of training on these but not 100% yet. Get me ideas on what to do.

First day in flower and they looking good but there some burnt leaves from to much fertiliser is my diagnosis

I’m gone check back in for the smoke report

Flowering beginning of week 5

Nothing different this week. Plants are still changing fast and looking healthy. Will probably top dress this coming week.

Today on day 17 from date of birth Iam preparing a worm casting tea. In a cheese cloth bag ,Made up of 2 cups of worm castings 2 tablespoons of unsulfured molasses,2 tablespoons of mineralized phosphate (bat shit) ,2 tablespoons of soluble seaweed extract . 2 tablespoons of alfalfa meal 2 tablespoons of all purpose 4-4-4 all Gia green products other than. I also sprinkled in some great white premium mycorrhizae inton2 gallons of water. Tea will brew for 24 hours before applying.

I’m to busy sorry

wau what pistils !!!! my puppies have blossomed exaggeratedly .... some are very long ... others have remained shorter ... I hope not to damage these magnificent buds under the lights and to give all my girls the light they deserve ... I have to learn the fucking techniques of you masters of cultivation ... I'm here to learn the best from you !! * some leaves are starting to make purple funte ... I don't know what the fuck it is ... maybe it's a question of genetics I think ...

As per usual she has grown ridiculously , I will take some nice harvest photos

🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 HAPPY GROWING 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 (👉Bonus Video Showcases Everything I Have Going on in TropiCannibis HQ 👈) We are now 63 Days into flowering and everything is going great 👍 👈 We are now playing the waiting game👌 Mini Me is getting chopped 😀 Just waiting on the tricomes to amber up a bit 👈 👍 decided to showcase the Mini BigBand , was a extra seed that germed so I kept it as a Mini Me 😊 She's killing it 👈 Except for some watering no nutrients have been added 😋 Flush Completed 👉Soil Medium Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca I would like to thank the many growmies for support throughout the years 🙏 So Let's Do This 👊👊👊 Happy Growing

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

13 Jun 2021 Continuing to flush my DarkStar Kush probably for another week at least. If I were following my original plan, I would be cutting her down today and starting the harvest. However, the runoff is still colored (not as much as it was, but still), and the TDS runoff was higher today than yesterday by almost 200 ppm. I’ve added new pics for this new week to show how she’s changing colors later in her life. She’s begging to be harvested, but I want to smoke her and not her nutrients! I’ve already waited this long, what’s another week or so. 🤷‍♂️ Oh well. I gave her a gallon of water chilled to 49.2 degrees F, and gave her 20 drops of pH DOWN which adjusted the pH from its initial 8.2 to a final pH of 6.7. The TDS going in was 76 ppm. Runoff pH was 6.3, and TDS runoff was 1740 ppm (up from 1462 ppm yesterday). Tent temperature was 82 degrees F, and humidity was 42%. 14 Jun 2021 Continuing with the flush today. Feeding a gallon of 45.5 degree F water with nothing more than 22 drops (gtts) of pH DOWN to make it just right. Initial pH was 8.4, and adjusted down to 6.4. The TDS going in was 85 ppm. Runoff pH was also 6.4, and TDS runoff was 1377 ppm. Working in the right direction at least. TDS runoff yesterday was 1740 ppm, so a reduction of 363 ppm today, but still a ways to go. Tent temperature was 82 degrees F and humidity was 47%. She’s looking more and more ready for harvest each day! Uploaded some pics of her colorful foliage today along with some new trichome pics. They’re almost all cloudy/milky with some amber interspersed here and there. Come on flush!! Do your job! 😜 16 Jun 2021 Went out of town on a day trip yesterday, so no watering was done, but I’m back today to continue the flush. The tent temperature was 81 degrees F, and humidity was 43%. Thought I’d start off backwards today in my note from the norm. I gave a gallon of cold water (51 degrees F) with 20 drops of pH DOWN to adjust the initial pH of 8.2 to 6.5. The TDS going in was 83 ppm. Runoff pH was also 6.5, which to me is promising, and the TDS runoff was 814 ppm. That’s a decrease of 563 ppm since the last watering/flush on the 14th. Hopefully in just a couple of days I’ll be able to start the harvest because she is READY!! I took more trichome pics today which were marvelous! They are perfect (to my untrained and inexperienced eye)! Hopefully I’m just days away!! 17 Jun 2021 Continuing the flush another day. The TDS runoff is still decreasing a little bit every day. Today I’ll be uploading a video instead of a bunch of pics. I already have a lot for this week, so I figured I’d do something different. I’m still giving chilled, and properly pH’ed fresh water. Nothing else. So, today I gave a gallon of H2O chilled to 51F. The initial pH was 8.4, so I added 22 drops (1ml) of pH DOWN to adjust it to 6.4. The TDS going in was 85 ppm. Runoff pH was 6.5, and TDS was 758 ppm. There is a 56 ppm decrease from yesterday, and I was hoping for much more, but it is what it is. I’ll keep going till it is better till harvest. Looking at the plant, it’s losing several leaves that are just drying up and falling off. Not a lot, but about as much as should be expected at this stage. The plant, trichomes, and buds are ready for harvest, but I want to make sure that I get all the nutrients out before I do it. Thankfully, I’m a patient person! 19 Jun 2021 I’ve been doing the flush for 2 weeks now, and the TDS runoff is still measuring 647 ppm. Honestly, I don’t know what the level should be for the harvest, but I’m getting to the point where I just want to go ahead and do it. Her buds are looking awesome, and many of the sugar leaves have turned dark purple, but she’s losing a lot of her bigger leaves. None of the ones around any buds, so I’m not concerned with it that much. However, I don’t want the trichomes to get more amber. The vast majority are milky, which is what I’m looking for with only a smattering of amber here and there. She’s just right!! Anyway, I gave a gallon of water at 48.7F with an initial pH of 8.3. I added 21 drops (1ml) of pH DOWN to adjust it to 6.7. The TDS going in was 71 ppm. Runoff pH was also 6.7 (it has consistently been the same or just a decimal point off from that going in for the last week or so). The runoff TDS was 647 ppm as noted above. Tent temperature was 84F, and humidity was 48%.

16 tops! Wow so this lady has started to recuperate from the butchering I did last week, the tops coming along nicely 👌 about 2 weeks throw her into flower 🌼, happy growing and stay green ✌️ 💚 👌

Just a quick update because life has been pretty busy. Finally received my new pH-meter from Apera Instruments and I am satisfied so far.

Sorry I haven’t been posting to much been crazy busy but here’s an update of my grow using the sp 150 by @marshydro_official2 , ladies are loving it and are very happy besides the obvious heat problem I have going on in my tent. I have slowly been getting the temps of the tent down and hopefully the ladies bounce back up , they have all entered flower and I’m pumped to watch them bulk up 🙏🏽😁 I have purple punch , stardawg , strawberry cheese cake, and a pink kush Cbd . I have also just started a couple GSC and one is showing some crazy mutations as a seedling already 🤯

Update coming.