Zhampagne - Compound Genetics Day 70 - watered with 2l of RO tap water, with defined nutrients, mixed in order and then pHd to 6.3. She's into her fourth week of bloom now, she has finished her stretch and is now working on developing her bud sites! 💪🏻 No work on her this week, just letting her grow 🙏🏻

The grow is coming along nicely I had a couple issues with fungus gnats but I got that under wraps if anyone has any issues at all with fungus gnats I'm telling you get yourself some big time exterminator and you will not have any further issues I have tried everything under the sun and this is what I have landed on the best of the best as far as I'm concerned I'll never buy another brand this was allso the only brand that didn't kill all my beneficials

Hey All, I skipped last week just because it was just a growth week. Nothing really exciting. However, as you can see from the pictures we have made some serious headway. These girls are now 16 days old and really looking good. Early last week they got a good watering with MykosWP to help with root growth and then they have been feed 2 times (That incudes today) with CalMag and Regeisys. If you want to know more about the Regenisys, I talk about it in the video. They are growing fast, I am sure by the end of next week we will start to go into flowering. They are all very consistent as far as structure except for one that is just a bit bushier. Heavy stalks, dark green leaves, they look just fantastic. They are right at about 6" but their growth is accelerating as they get bigger. I will begin really putting the food to them with my next watering, they are ready to feed. So far everything is going quite smoothly!

Week 9 - First Week of Flowering 🌸 The dark period has ended, and these ladies came back into the light fully energized and ready for action! It’s just the first week of flower, and they’re all praying, stretching, and absolutely thriving—filling up every inch of the tent. This grow space is officially packed from wall to wall, with each plant competing for its share of light and showing off some of the biggest, healthiest leaves I’ve seen yet! 🌱 A few strategic plucks here and there have kept airflow smooth and light penetration balanced. Those big leaves? They’re a sign of happy, healthy growth. Large leaves help the plant capture maximum light energy, essential during this stage, especially as they start focusing on developing those flowers. When plants grow huge, vibrant leaves like these, it means they’re well-nourished and content in their environment—a true testament to the well-balanced conditions we’ve got going in the tent! Flowering Parameters 🌡️ Room Environment: • Temperature: 26.7°C • Humidity: 63.3% • CO2: 960 ppm • VPD: 1.29 kPa (prime zone for flowering health!) Lighting: • Light Intensity: 835 PPFD (ideal for boosting flower growth) • Solution: pH 5.96, TDS 460 ppm, temp 21.1°C • Medium: Moisture: 100%, TDS: 520 ppm, Temp: 21.6°C Carbon Filter Installation & Smell Management 🌬️🌱 With the transition to flower, the scent profile is already starting to kick in—crazy for the first week, right? 🌸 To keep everything fresh and under wraps, I’ve set up a carbon filter system. Here’s how it’s working: I’ve connected the filter to my Aerofan, which pulls air directly from the tent. This air is cleaned by the filter and released into the main room, where it then passes through another filter before exiting my space. This dual-filter setup means no scent escapes into the wild, keeping things stealthy and the grow room a peaceful, scent-contained environment. Perfect for anyone concerned about keeping their home free from that telltale aroma! 🕶️🌬️ Enhanced Lighting with Emerson Effect 🌞 This week, I’ve introduced an extra 15 minutes of red light at the beginning and end of each light cycle. Why? Well, this red boost taps into the Emerson effect, enhancing photosynthesis efficiency, especially during the flowering stage. By stimulating a little extra wake-up and wind-down light, we’re mimicking the natural sunrise and sunset experience for these plants, which can help reduce flowering time. Not only does it encourage smoother transitions into day and night, but in theory, it’ll help these ladies finish a bit faster, while giving them a little nudge to build more substantial, quality flowers. 🌇 Nutrient Adjustments 🌱 Now that we’re in flower, I’ve swapped out the Start Booster for P-Boost and TopBooster to specifically support flowering needs. Here’s why: • P-Boost brings in additional phosphorus, vital for energy transfer and cell division as the plant channels more resources into budding sites. • TopBooster supports the flowering phase by improving flower quality and density, helping to build those big, aromatic buds we’re after. These changes bring the nutrient mix in line with what’s most beneficial at this stage. All this precise dialing in is easy to manage thanks to the TrolMaster system. From pH to nutrient scheduling, the TrolMaster ecosystem and ThinkGrow LEDs have been the ultimate teammates in this grow journey, giving me real-time data, fine control, and peace of mind. 💯 (Not introducing UV light just yet, but stay tuned as that’s coming soon for an added boost!) Looking Forward 🌟 Next week, we’ll be upping the reds, giving us an even greater chance of activating those flowering signals for a smoother, faster transition through the cycle. I’ll keep tweaking and fine-tuning every parameter to make sure these ladies get exactly what they need to thrive. Big thanks to the TrolMaster system for keeping everything in balance and optimized, along with the supportive Grow Fam following this journey! Your enthusiasm, advice, and support are a huge part of this grow’s success. Keep following for more updates, and stay tuned for what’s next! 🌿✨ P.S. Deep Dive: TrolMaster’s MBS-S8 CO₂ Sensor & Smoke Detector 🚨 The MBS-S8 CO₂ Sensor from TrolMaster is a powerhouse for growers, especially when it comes to optimizing plant growth and efficiency in a controlled environment. This sensor continuously monitors CO₂ levels and integrates directly with the TrolMaster ecosystem, giving you real-time data on CO₂ concentration. Ideal levels of CO₂ can significantly boost growth and yield during certain stages, so understanding and managing CO₂ is key. With the MBS-S8, I can control CO₂ levels precisely, keeping them within the optimal range for photosynthesis. This sensor is a game-changer because it adjusts CO₂ delivery automatically, giving plants exactly what they need without any extra monitoring from me. Meanwhile, TrolMaster’s Smoke Detector is an essential safety device, especially in spaces with electrical equipment, lights, and heat-generating components. This detector can be set up to alert me instantly via the TrolMaster app if any smoke is detected, allowing me to respond immediately to any potential issues. Fires and smoke are rare in controlled grow setups but having this safety measure provides peace of mind and lets me focus on the plants without constant worry. It’s an incredible tool for any grower prioritizing safety and proactive monitoring. Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

Tale of two plant. Plant 1 has been the perfect plant so far during flower no really issue and is growing frosty. She look like she will be ready in a week or so Plant 2 is finally coming into shape and starting to get frosty, still lagging behind plant 1 in bud form and frostiness hopefully by harvest it will catch up about 2-4 weeks left

At first, I couldn't adjust the temperature, but when I did, it soon increased mmmmmmmmmm

Waiting for warmer days to apply Boveril to prevent mites! 🙏 💪

21 days of flower 🌸🌼

Super easy trim✂️ The buds are super dense & sticky🤩 For the smell it’s cherry & blackcurrant with a gassy touch the Cherry Cola Diesel ⛽️🍒

Mulberry F3 Day 70 All is good with Miss Mulberry this morning. Her flowers are in chunky mode. She responded well to increasing her lights. Her flowers resemble strawberries in shape and size with many very large flowers. Starting the pk 13/14 immediately after stretch has seemed to have a positive influence in flower formation. The increase in light intensity also has had a positive effect on flower growth. I haven’t defoliated her very much at all and if I tried hard I could probably count each leaf I removed, less than two dozen total I’m sure. I will however begin to remove a leaf or two each day until she is thinned out a bit.

Ha sido una buena semana, la temperatura no bajado tanto como la semana anterior, y he regado cada 2 días para que no se estrésen por falta de agua. Solamente a la más alta le hice una poda apical, para trata de uniformar con las demás en altura. Le agregué 1,5 ml/L grotek bud fuel para comenzar a estimular la prefloracion, y aumentare en 2 horas más el período nocturno.

Hey everyone 😃. This week they have developed better and better :-). It has become a real bush 😍. It grows very evenly and beautifully 💪🏻. Well gets you also use your flower fertilizer so that you can put your power into the flowers. Otherwise there is nothing to report this week. Have a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻, and let it grow Strain : Sour Diesel ☝️🏼😍 Genetic: Diesel x Northern Lights 👍 Vega Lights : 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lights : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡 ☝️ Soil : Canna Terra Professional + ☝️ Nutrients : Canna Terra Vega, Canna Terra Flores, Rizotonic, Cannazym, CANNA Boost, Pk 13/14, Canna Cal/Mag, Canna Ph - Grow, Canna Ph - Flores ☝️ 🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EG. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 💦 💧

Plant was transplanted in to 5.5 L pot

Haben zum Glück aufgehört zu strecken, seit Tag 10 auch die Under Cannopy dazu geschaltet… Perfekter Strech, bin auf die Blüten gespannt 💪🏽

Week 9.5 been really busy ,I added the light bar under the canopy to help with light penetration as well as a few rounds of defoliation ...they have been very thirsty recently so I've upped the amount of food .

As I did the flushing in day 70 I was watching the trichomes and on day 87 I could see 25-35% amber so I decided to cut it. I cut the whole plant on the base and hang the whole plant to dry. For this reason I will update my findings later when it gets dry and trimmed about yield and numbers. So far really happy with the results. It will probably be the champs of this run yielding nicely 👍🏼.

OK, so I’ll begin dialing back in my grow focusing after I gave her a top dress feeding I watered her in well with 2 gallons of water unpHd maybe two or three days later I noticed that her topsoil was starting to dry so I gave her another gallon of water just because although I believe in allowing the plant to have the dry back. Between watering I also keep hearing you know that with organic soil, you have to keep it moist in order for you know the nutrient to break down and I definitely want those top nutrients I gave her to become readily available . Also, in terms of dialing it back in the plant has been at a very abbreviated or dimmed level like since recovering from when I basically almost killed it and with that being said with the light being out at a dim level of about 40 to 50%, it was also brought up to a very High height in order to decrease stress so that they can regrow so I lower the light from 26 inches 28“ to 14 inches above the canopy. I put back in my floor fan for the lower canopy although I found out that it no longer circulate so I’m having to replace it. Its replacement is on the way in the mail. I added it back in the humidifier for the plants mainly because I was doing the cuttings in the clones since I needed to trim the lower canopy and begin training the plant down more for the trellis. This is my first run using a trellis. This is my first time trying to make one plant so massive, but I’m just a small time grower trying to get the most bang for my book since I’m trying to grow plants to supply myself anyways rather than maintaining so many different plants, I just thought I’d give it a go at making one plant massive I’ve gotten fairly decent and establishing good structure implants as far as like the number of branches or branches so I really wanna like push the threshold of my quantity that I can that I can deliver, but this are all the while. I’m still really working hard to get the quality that I know I like to smoke. I’m happy you know I’m learning but wow I’m still very far from the goal so the light is still at 50% but it lowered to 14 inches. There’s an additional lower canopy fan that’s not currently circulating but one on the way that will circulate the air down there and the humidifier in the tent now oh I also reprogram my humid controller because ever since I’ve called the other three plants that were occupying this tent when I began this this project I tried to switch it over for new settings for this plan considering you know it was set for the flower setting for my last three ladies but when I did that I messed it up and I was just too lazy to go in there and fix it so we have been running with BPD issues this entire time you know and that’s that’s part of the stunning growth as well you know the darn near 30 inch light height, being hungry and meet me during the watering but just in discriminated amounts because I’m not TDS and or PPM any of this stuff I’m really just eyeballing it not paging this stuff circulation and low light intensity. I mean, I can see why it’s taking her a little while to start moving like got like I remember her moving but since I’m back posting I’m I’m I’m working a dollar and I was even considering buying a new light at first but then I realized one I do have a really good light too. I really haven’t got that many runs off of this light less than 10 three is because I doubt her back so much in order to like decrease the stress and I can. I can push this plant with this light. I just need to dial my equipment back in and for you know, I had him back in the extra circulation and the humidifier to get the environment dialed in. I mean, you thought you get that BPD setting right and she used to transpired but now she’s hungry and if I keep that so more so that those nuts can break down she’s gonna get to looking for those nutrients so if not now like I think it’s supposed to take a week no more than a week gonna have to before those nutrients become you know bi available tour so I’m doing I’m doing my part now to give her the attention that she needs into dollar back in so that we can we can get the show on the road. This is entirely too long, but that’s just because I haven’t. I’ve been. I’ve been hands off. I mean, I found that I like the hands off approach to growing much more than the hands-on because then I’m too impatient and I’m oh man then it becomes a chore and has to go take care of her. You know as opposed to a pleasure or like a getaway, I enjoy when I take care of my plan. I like it to be at my activity you know not something that I’m just ready to get over with. I like to spend time with my plans I like to not mind going in there and then defoliating every couple of days. Listen, I need a strain that has an excellent of matter fact a low leaf to blood ratio I need far more bud and weight less leaves. I strain that I pick out a pure interest, but at this point, I’m almost ready to pick strains based off of leaf to blood ratio. I would enjoy just a good simple girl like I just have a couple of leaf Plug every couple of weeks. Let’s see when I’m mean to her with food top dressed because she’s in a 6 gallon hot, I gave her 1 tablespoon of the guy green broke and 3 tablespoons of organic worm castings per 6 gallons so that was a total of 6 tablespoons of the guy green grow nutrient maybe even seven for good measure and then 18 tablespoons cause I don’t know how many you know a4 cups 1/3 cup for cups that is but I actually wanna find out so I can stop doing these tablespoon measurements but 18 tablespoons of worm castings and I just I did my best to work. I didn’t really well to the top so and then I watered that in really slowly to try to avoid runoff the best I could. I did end up getting about a quarter inch runoff when I usually get about an inch and a half a runoff so I did good. I just even know that stuff eventually sucks back up in the pot. I didn’t want all that stuff to like rush to the bottom and then only get sucked back up at the bottom cause I don’t know what the root looks like at the bottom. I kinda have to assume that it is nice and strong, and maybe even root bound need to be upside to a bigger pot before I flipper the flower but if it’s not like I don’t want the concentration of nutrients and salts to be at the very bottom, especially when it comes time later for flushing, like I want that stuff to be you know closer to the to the top in the middle of the other of the soul structure, where I know the majority of the roots are and eventually work as way down to the evening rate, but not have a concentration at the bottom and I’m adding stuff in at the top. I really wanna flush this plant. Well, my lash flush it was semi decent. This flush it could be between my flesh, my dry and my cure which is crippling anybody I mean the girl I got far better man you should’ve seen my first couple girls terrible but now I’m gonna achieve quality in good structure. I just need to get I mean I can see quality you know structure of plants and blood structure but I gotta get the quality smoke. The sticks the smells taste the dense buds at the right moisture level if you’re enjoying it so far, give us a like. FINAL UPDATE OF THIS WEEK: 16DAYS SINCE DRY AMENDING SOIL . . PLANT STILL SHOWS NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY. I had hoped to be back on Water Onlu by now bc I’m afraid I’m going t burn her with these nutrient waters this long since my dry ammenduand what’s worse is that if I follow my 3 week amendment rule I’ll be adding 6 more tbl spoons of nutrient alongside worm castings ALL WHILE THE LAST NUTRIENTS I FED STILL HAVENT BECOME AVAILABLE YET. I DONT LIKE THIS

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.