Was showing signs of nutrient lockout so decided to start flushing process.. amazing smell but this will be the last ever diary of disco biscuits as she has outstayed her welcome. Not as fat as I’d like her to be but still 2 weeks remaining before chop.

Just starting to take off full nutrients feeds it’s getting see how it goes from here

Will be harvesting her in the next few days.

🌌 Folder #2 — Cosmic Noodles Week 3 Update — Technique, Response, Momentum First of all — thank you to everyone following this diary. This space exists to document real-time learning, real decisions, and real plant responses — and this week gave us a lot of material. Cosmic Noodles continues to impress. ⸻ 🌱 Plant B — 2 Weeks Veg → Guided Expansion still an autoflower This plant is moving fast, confidently, and with intention. Her growth this week was so strong that I made the decision to begin structured low-stress training, not to restrict her, but to open her up. 🔧 Training Method (Accurately Explained) This was a progressive process, not a single action: 1️⃣ Leaf Tucking (Start of the Week) • Larger fan leaves gently tucked under • Objective: • expose inner growth • encourage branch development • allow light to reach lower nodes This alone already triggered visible response. ⸻ 2️⃣ Directional Bending (Mid-Week) As growth accelerated, I moved from leaf work to branch positioning. • Branches were gently pulled outward • Secured using soft, green-coated wire • Wire anchored directly into the soil and pot edge • No rigid clips, no plastic clamps The wire is: • flexible • forgiving • adjustable allowing the plant to move while still being guided. ⸻ 3️⃣ Anchoring & Holding Space (End of Week) As branches continued to push hard, I introduced U-shaped wire anchors, pinched into the soil. Important clarification: • These are wired anchors, not plastic clamps • They hold branches down toward the soil • Purpose: keep the canopy open and horizontal • Result: light penetration everywhere This is not about forcing shape — it’s about creating room for expression. ⸻ 🌿 Plant Response Her reaction has been nothing short of outstanding. • Branches: Already pushing into the 6th–7th branch • Stress response: None observed • Vigor: Extremely high • Growth speed: Fast, confident, continuous She didn’t slow down. She leaned into it. This plant is healthy, driven, and clearly enjoying the guidance. Next week is going to be something special. ⸻ 🌱 Plant A — 12/12 From Seed (Autoflower) Running alongside her is Plant A, grown 12/12 from seed, and she continues to behave beautifully. • Leaf stage: • Third pair fully developed • Fourth pair coming in • Structure: Compact, balanced, composed • Behavior: Calm, steady, almost photoperiod-like Once again, it raises the question: Are these autoflowers acting like photoperiods? Or are photoperiods acting like autos? No answers yet — just fascination and respect. ⸻ 💡 Light Intensity & PPFD Response This week, PPFD was increased, continuing the controlled progression already established in the room. Key observations: • Autoflowers are responding exceptionally well • Leaf posture remains strong • Color remains healthy • No stress indicators present This reinforces that progressive PPFD increases, when done patiently, can be extremely effective — even with autoflowers. ⸻ 🔮 What to Expect (and What Not To) Expect: • Rapid structural development on Plant B • Even canopy formation as wire training settles • Continued confident growth across both timelines Do NOT expect: • Forced conclusions • Rushed flowering assumptions • Heavy-handed intervention We observe. We assist. We let the plant lead. ⸻ 🙏 Closing This week was a reminder of why technique matters — and why precision in documentation matters just as much. Thank you to everyone following along. More to come — and next week, keep your eyes on Plant B. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial 📲 Don’t forget to Subscribe and follow me on Instagram and YouTube @DogDoctorOfficial for exclusive content, real-time updates, and behind-the-scenes magic. We’ve got so much more coming, including transplanting and all the amazing techniques that go along with it. You won’t want to miss it. GrowDiaries Journal: https://growdiaries.com/grower/dogdoctorofficial Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dogdoctorofficial/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dogdoctorofficial ⸻ Explore the Gear that Powers My Grow If you’re curious about the tech I’m using, check out these links: 🔆 Lighting & Environmental Control • Future of Grow — Advanced LED lighting technology https://www.futureofgrow.com/ DISCOUNT CODE: DOG20 • Lumiflora — Under-canopy LED lighting https://lumiflorade.com/ • TrollMaster — Environmental controllers and automation gear (past collaboration) ⸻ Genetics • Zamnesia Seeds — Genetics used in this project https://www.zamnesia.com/ ⸻ 🌱 Soil, Substrates, Boosters & Root Support • Plagron — Substrates, bio mixes, and supportive products https://plagron.com/en/ ⸻ 🎒 Storage, Curing & Preservation • Grove Bags — Curing and storage solutions https://grovebags.com/ ⸻ 📸 Photography Equipment & Tools (Not sponsors, but part of my creative toolkit) • Sony A6700 • Sony full-frame macro lens + few more • Stacking photography workflow - learning • iPhone (for behind-the-scenes shots) We’ve got much more coming as we move through the grow cycles. Trust me, you won’t want to miss the next steps, let’s push the boundaries of indoor horticulture together! As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together. With true love comes happiness. Always believe in yourself, and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart. Be a giver, and the universe will give back in ways you could never imagine. 💚 Growers love to all 💚 📸 P.S. – The Eye Behind the Lens All photos in this diary (for now — except for the ones showing the camera, which I took with an iPhone) are taken with a Sony A6700 paired with a Sony full-frame macro lens and a few more. Photography is part of the story — it’s how we share the fine textures, the glow, and the quiet details that words can’t always capture. I’ve also started experimenting with photo stacking — a technique where multiple images, each taken at a slightly different focus point, are layered together to create one perfectly sharp image from front to back. It’s not digital enhancement or AI; it’s pure photography — a way to reveal the plant’s beauty in microscopic depth, from trichome to petal. You’ll even see a few shots of "ghost me" capturing the shots — camera, lens, setup — because every grow deserves not just to be cultivated, but documented like art. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial NEW DISCORD - Official Server Invite Link : https://discord.gg/ksjAkA5T74

Yummy!!

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Transplanting today into 3 gallon with some dry organic amendments. Coco, perlite, gaia green, EWC, Mycorrhizae will be the weapons of choice. Currently under 4000K light might change to 3000K as only 2 x 3 or 5 gallon pots will fit under the preferred veg light. Main focus has now shifted to this new run will try and get her ready for flower 2-3 weeks from today. Cheers to all fellow growers.

Olá companheiros de cultivo, está semana notei evolução em todas as plantas, a ajuda do Mars hydro ts1000 fez toda a diferença, as minhas plantas adoraram, estou muito contente estão a desenvolver muito bem e a tropicanna já mostra a sua essência roxa 🤩🤩🍇🍇🍇☮️ Boas festas peace and love ☮️☮️

Did my last topping on a few branches that were left took most of the big fan leaves off to open them up more i forgot to do a week lol.

Praying my girls are not all in different stages of dying 😭More to follow... 1/9/21 These girls were finally dry enough to water I weighed each post before and after watering. I am going to try weighing the pots and water when the weight is about half as dry.as I normally do. So Maybe I should water @ 3lbs heavier... somewhere between 8-9lbs 1/10 I changed the light cycle so that my "night time" is in the middle of the day for heating reason, so this morning when I woke up, after being under the lights for 18 hours I actually had growth on two plants. Gorilla Glue and my photo plant Chocoloope that is growing with the autos. They were both under the VIPARSPECTRA 2020 Pro Series P1000 LED Grow Light. The other two plants were under BLOOMSPECT Double Chips Series 1500W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum. I wish I hadn't made so many mistakes with this grow because I know there is no way to know if it is the light that made them grow better than the other two or they were just a little healthier. I don't think so because Gorilla Glue is the worst plant and she actually grew but who knows. Anyways I switched the plants around so they are under the opposite light when their day time starts and we will just have to see. PE Length 8' Height 7' Width 8.5" Dry weight 6lb 4oz Wet weight 13lb 11oz GG Length 8" Height 7" Width 8.5" Dry weight 5lb 14 oz- Wet weight 11lb NB Length 11" Height 10 " Width 10.5" Dry weight 6lb 9 oz Wet weight 12lb Choco Length " Height Width " Dry weight Wet weight 1/11/21 DAY 46S HELP if ANYONE SEES THIS .... last night I decided not to switch the plants around after all, but I did rearrange the tent because I had a plug running through door and I am still struggling to regulate the humidity and temp. I thought I still had good air circulation but apparently I did not and the plants are not happy. Gorilla Glue is not going to make it. She turned real dark green after watering her on Saturday, she had a small amount of growth Sunday but now all the leaves are laying down. I don't know if I should use Sledge hammer but after flushing a week ago letting her dry for a week and then watering Saturday I don't know if I flushed her with sledge hammer if that would finish her off or perk her back up. I weighed her and she was 4 pounds lighter than when I watered her on Saturday and still 2+ pounds lighter than when she is the driest. Some background on how I tried to kill my plants... 😭 I started this grow by watching a zillion videos with my key take away being 1-don't over water 2- don't transplant autos 3- don't feed full strength. I took it seriously, so my tiny little sprouts were put into 3 gallon pots of Fox Farm happy frog potting soil. (didn't realize this already had enough nutrients to last several weeks so I started nutrients in the 2nd week of Veg) I use Fox farm nutrients and follow their soil feeding schedule. I bought the Dirty Dozen starter kits and it did not have 2 products in that the feeding schedule but since they were not in the kit I assumed they must not be too important. They were.... Wholly Mackerel & Marine Cuisine fertilizer. I used a turkey baster to slowly drip a couple ounces of water around each plant I water just like in this picture. https://prnt.sc/wjq0gi for over a month. I didn't realize by watering like this for a month that I was making the nutrients build up just below the the root line each watering. I waited to water till the plants were very dry. Now looking back Way way to dry before watering. I am sure that is why they were not growing. I was only giving them enough to stay alive not thrive. So a little more back info Day 14 I watered the plants with plan water Day 23 after not having to water the plants for 9 days I watered them, 1/4 gallon each with week 2 schedule, with the addition of calmag+(2-0-0) @ 50% strength Day 27 they were light and needed to be watered and they had grown a little. so I gave them nutrients same as above Day 30 The plants were not quit as dry as usual but I was beginning to think I was underwatering them so I gave them 1/2 gallon of THIS IS WERE IT ALL GOES WRONG...(Actually after reviewing my grow journal just now my problems started Day 1 and was showing signs I just didn't know it and I still am not sure how to fix any of it Almost makes me think I should scrap it all and start over. These poor plants will be lucky to produce anything) Someone could seriously use my grow journal as a "everything not to do" guide. Day 35 since the plants were finally big enough to soak the pots fully. I also decided since they had used 1/2 gallon water in 3 days and they grew a ton I upped the nutrients to full strength and the calmag plus as well. This was the first time I had any runoff sadly I let the plants sit in the runoff and reabsorbed all the runoff. Day 38 Flushed each plant with with 5 gallons of tap water that had a PH of 6.4 & water temp was 62 degrees. My run off started at 4300ppm with a ph of 6.2. The PH was consistent in every plants runoff and all of them had off the chart PPMs. I brought NB down to 250ppm. Gorilla Glue and Pineapple express I brought the runoff down to 450. For some reason I decided that since my plants were probably in shock from no water and nutrients to more water and a whole lot of nutrients and I figured flushing them would reset the soil and I reasoned they would need food after not getting any from being in shock so I gave them each a half strength nutrients. I waited a full week then posted this question. Day 45 I have each plant plain water and checked the run off. The Gorilla Glue had a run off of 584ppm with a ph of 6.47 , The northern lights X had 750ppm and 6.38ph pineapple express had 1170ppm runoff so I ran a less less than an extra half gallon of water and that brought the ppm down to 706. PH was 6.3. I have a photo period that I didn't add to this dairy but has been with these plants and it is starting to show the same signs as the others they are just all in different phases of whatever I did to almost kill them. I started the next week on Friday so I will be adding pictures and a couple videos I took from today in my grow dairy tonight. I don't know what to do next.

She is adjusted to the LED and she is loving the organic nuetrient and tea.

7/25 Did two videos this morning. One where I was only going to water the 3 gallons I had mixed up but it's going to be very hot this week. Didn't want to make the same mistake as last time so I watered everything AT LEAST A GALLON. I need to bump up the volume during these really hot, humid days abd it doesn't get worse then this. Things are getting dusty. Found an inch worm and some minor pest damage. Once it cools down ill spray something. Also noticing small nitrogen deficiency that takes a leaf and moves up the plant a little bit. I'm going to need to start nutes this week. I'll keep this updated. Went back over around one and everything was looking fantastic! Took a few pictures and defoliated a few leaves. UPDATE: I GOT A MESSAGE FROM DAD SAYING MY PLANTS LOOKED DROOPY. I HADNT MADE IT OVER FOR MY NIGHTLY INSPECTION BUT HAVING WATERED YESTERDAY I WAS THINKIBG OF SKIPPING IT. GOT THERE AND SAW THE FIRST 10TH PLANET DROOPY. ALL THE TENTH PLANETS LOOK RELATIVELY THE SAME BUT ONE OF THEM IS MY "CANARY IM A COAL MINE" AS IT DROOPS WAY BEFORE THE OTHERS. THE TWO BLUE CHEESES IN 20S THAT DRY OUT FASTER GOT TWO GALLONS AS DID MY 10TH PLANET CANARY AND MY BIG BLUE IN THE 50. ITS BEEN 90S AND SUNSHINE AND ITS ONLY GOING TO GET HOTTER. I HAVE THINGS GOING ON IN THE MORNING SO I WONT HE ABLE TO WATER. I NOTICED MORE NITROGEN DEFICIENCY RISING IN THE BLUECHEESE THAT DRINKS ALL THE WATER. OBVIOUSLY ILL NEED TO ADD NUTES SOONER THAB LATER CONSIDERING IM IN FLOWER BUT THE PLANTS ARE STILL A NICE GREEN AMD ONLY LOSING VERY FEW LEAVES. I ACTUALLY SAW A COUPKE BURNT LEAF TIPS ON A COUPKE PLANTS AFTER I WATERED WITH THE KELP ME/YOU. THIS SOIL IS AWESOME. WHAT IS THIS? WEEK 16 AND STILL GOING STRONG. WHEN I DO DECIDE TO START NUTES ILL TEST IT ON THAT BLUE CHEESE THATS FURTHER IN SENESCENCE. I TOOK A QUICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/26 Had a bear come around my cage and getting into out bird feeders. Bent the iron shelerds hook all the way to the ground! Getting AMMONIA now to try and keep him away. Bags were heavy this morning but it's going to be really hot again. It'll be on the 90s the next few days so I need to be very careful. After we get through this I'll do an app of BT. Garden looks fantastic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lants are looking FANTASTIC this morning. Soil is still damp this morning and bags are heavy as hell. They look super happy. Obviously my watering situation depends on the weather. Today and tomorrow are supposed to be the hottest days so I wanted to make sure the plants had sufficient water before this. I'll let them dry out totally before watering again. There's another four lined plant big somewhere that sat there and destroyed another leaf. I'm AT LEAST spraying with BT after this heat wave. Supposed to rain a little today with thunderstorms. I haven't got my supports up yet but if i need to I coukd throw my tarps up real quick. Don't think I'll need to though. These are some tough freaking plants and I am super proud of how they've turned out thus far. UPDATE: WENT BACK OVER AND RE APPLIED BLEECH TO THE RAGS AND ON THE PERIMETER OF MY CAGE. I TACKED A FEW MORE DRYER SHEETS UP. REASON I DID THIS WAS BECAUSE WEVE BEEN GETTING HORRIBLE THUNDER STORMS WITH TORRENTIAL RAIN. THE WEATHER MAN HAD BEEN WRONG SEVERAL TIMES WARNING OF THUNDER STORMS AND WE WOULDNT GET SHIT. THIS TIME IT WAS PRETTY BAD. TOOK A SHORT VIDEO. IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE THE HOTTEST DAYS TODAY AND TOMORROW. I DIDNT NOTICE ANY BREAKAGE AND I DONT SEE ANY ON MY CAMS. IM SURE ITS NOT THAT MUCH RAIN AND THOSE NAHS WILL DRY OUT SOON. I NEED TO GET MORE PH DOWN AND DECIDE WHAT IT IS IM GOING TO DO FOR NUTES IN FLOWER AND MAKE UP MY MIND. 7/28 Huge thunderstorms all day yesterday and through the night with high wonds. Plants made it through unscathed despite the lack of a trellis. Today is supposed to be the hottest of these days. I think the hear wave ends today. I really need to get my supports up. I'm super lucky to not have had any breaks during the storm. I have a couple of videos I did but I didn't upload them earlier and now that I'm back in the woods I doubt they'll upload now. I'll give it a shot. If not I'll put them up tomorrow. OH! I found that four lined plant bug that had been fucking up my leaves and squished him. Well I hope it was him. If not I killed a sibling at least. UPDATE: JUST WOW. This morning all drooped over from the storm went over at 4 and its still 90 and they seem to have grown sic inches and jumped forward WAY more into flower. I am amazed. I'll upload a photo or two but I took a video I'll put up tomorrow. Super stoked. Oh and you can give me a red smile face for not using nutes every week @growdiaries but you point out the deficiency then I'll fix it. 7/29 Plants looking fantastic this morning. UPDATE: PLANNED ON NOT GOING TO THECGROW TOMOGHT SEEING THAT IT HAD RAINED SO HARD AMD THAT WE ARE SUPPOSED TO GET RAIN TONIGHT. I GET THERE AT ABOUT FIVE AND MY CANARY AND A FEWCOTHERS WERE DROOPING! IT WAS IN THE 80S ALL DAY. I GAVE EACH PLANT A GALLON OF WATER. THE GROW BAGS ON THE TEO WORST PLANTS WERE SUBSTANTIALLY LIGHTER THAN THE REST. I HOPE IM NOT OVERWATERING. THE PLANTS SEEMED TO PICK BACK UP AFTER WATERING BUT ILL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL TOMORROW TO UPLOAD MY PICTURES AND VIDEOS. I NEEDED TO ADD TEMPORARY SUPPORTS TO A COUPLE DIFFERENT PLANTS. IM CERTAINLY GLAD I GOT THE URGE TO GO OVER. WHAT A CHANGE IN A FEW HOURS 7/30 Plants are really growing fast and transitioning quick to flower. We got almost no rain so I'm glad I watered like I was supposed to even though the bags had some heft to them. I'm noticing more pest damage. I'm thinking a bt spray tonight might be beneficial. I'll look through what I've got on hand. I may just give them an application of spinosid but we'll see. I still need to move things and put my supports up. Medical problems have slowed me down. UPDATE: Went to check the plants around 3 and they looked great. Bags were still heavy and a little bit moist. I think with the added rain some of the plants may have been overwatered. I should have only watered tue bags that felt light. There is only one plant now that looks a little overwatered and even that is looking good. I found some more minor pest damage. Winds were fairly high. I wondered about my trellis netting but it hadn't been sanitized and my plants are very healthy so I decided to wait. I watched them dance like willows in the wind. I know it won't be like that with big ol colas on them but for right now it's working out just fine. Goal for next week is to move the front row back and move things around to better utilize space, possibly spray for pest and add supports for final flowering after I get the plants situated how I want them. If I do it right I may be able to lst some. Also took a 2 minute video but I cant upload until tomorrow. 7/31 I'm wondering about my watering habits. This morning I watered a couple blue cheese and purple punch plants with just a half gallon as they were light and looked drooping. I'm wonderingvif I'm overwatering. Some plants still seem heavy while others are light? I think the plants may have been overwatered due to the torrential rain and my taking less time hand watering. Hopefully I won't come home from this doctors appointment to wilted plants but I really doubt it. 10th planet requires far less water than the two other strains. Even specific phenos require more water and its difficult with the different size containers but im working with what ive got. I need more ph down and I've gotta get these plants supported. These are some massive plants. Store was closed. Dispensary was opened. Showed my buddy the video then it started raining. By the time I got there the plants looked horrible. Everything was droopy but a couple were really bad. A few weren't bad at all. Actually the one in the ten needed it. I think I just need to give more water at a time and document how I water each plant individually. I also need to take into consideration the weather. Hard to do when it's so unpredictable. I'll wait for them to dry out and then I plan to start low doses of big bloom and grow big but I need to wait for them to dry out first. Then next watering they'll get some nutes. It's sunny now so I may go check my plants. I may also put a fan out for a while on the bags. That might help them out.

first day of putting into setup forgot to check water temp ended up getting to 77 may also be why #3 started teisting bad. Roots already coming out of bottom seem healthy. I am in growing in my garage I have an ac unit hooked up but still hit temps of just under 80 degrees a few days but got Temps back down around 75 during the day.

Hello Growers & Tokers! This week was all about the roots! At the beginning of the week, on day 17 or so.. they all got transplanted into their final pots, 11L fabric pots. Medium used was Light Mix from BioBizz. Synergy from Grotek nutrients was blended in the medium to help out the roots. They were a bit droopy the first days but by the end of the week leaves perked back up and started getting that dark green color. I plan on leaving them be for a week then topping them. Take care out there and happy growing!

This is about half way through the bloom cycle. The top leaves are burning and it is not from nutrients. The plants are too tall and the light is too close. I am going to practice some HST to make room for the lamp. I snapped the 2 or 3 tallest colas on each plant. They grew back stronger than before and loved it.

Bud sites are all starting to connect colors are starting to fatten about 10% of stigma’s have changed color and the inner buds are throwing out a purple hue

Day 1-12/12/21 seed is in water for 24hours! Day 2-13/12/21 seed has been placed on paper towel! Day 4-15/12/21 seed is in soil and tent!!! Day 6-17/12/21 seed has popped out the soil !!!!