First plant already shows signs after 2 days.

Buds getting fat and quite a bit of amber in the trichs as shown in the video. I keep saying to myself chop it but just a little longer i think. Or whenever i get impatient. Currently flushing with just water.

And this girl is done. She faded a lot during the last few weeks.

Beginning of week.. They are happy and healthy.. Feeding every other watering this week with half a dose of CALiMAGic and half a dose of FloraMicro.... Adding in some Floralicious Plus along with the MYCO+.. Not on the nutes list here so I'm just adding it in here.. Mid week... They are lookin good.. Been watering daily.. Gonna try to see if I can get away with every other day.. They got a good, late watering today so they should be good for 48 hours in between waterings.. This medium has ALOT of Springtails.. Those fuckers are really getting annoying.. They dont seem to hurt the plants (as far as I can tell).. But when you're seeing literally probably 100,000 every day in the runoff.. I'm a little nervous of any issues to arise. But so far the plants are looking great.. Growing.. Happy.. Healthy.. 😁 End of week.. Whoops.. Didnt get a chance to take any pics.. But tomorrow is when the next week begins! Pics there! On to the next week!...

Day 64 (2020-07-12): Watered at 5.8 PH Day 67 (2020-07-15): Starting flush of CBD Crack. Water only @ 5.8 PH. Continuing to feed G14 for another week. 5.8 PH. Day 70 (2020-07-18: Continuing flush of CBD crack, water only at 5.8. G14 gets the same MC dose @ 5.8

A little nute burn. Dialing back a bit, but she is still getting frosty.

Hi my friends! Thank you all for such amazing support on this sweet journey 🙏✌️💚 I'm updating and uploading daily so if week not completed yet. Please revisit to see full week content. So far everything is going great. Girls are are stretching nicely approx 2cm per 24h. It's looking that will cover entire scrog net with these 2 beauties. Simple plan for the week. Training on the net and maybe selective defoliation on week end. Week updates: 20-26 Nov. 20/11 day 43 Girls adapting well to net😁 21/11 day 44 First watering for this week. 2.5 ltr each pot. Runoff approx 200-300ml from each. Runoff Ph Xena 5.9 Athena 6.0. 23/11 day 46 It's seems that they stretched at least an inch overnight 😁 absolutely love my 🍌💜👊 girls. 25/11 day 48 Second watering for this week. Approx. 3L each 🤤 runoff 150-200ml. 26/11 day 49 Athena was stretching so much that decided for sort of heavier selective defoliation and cleared good bit under the net. Xena is at the same stage of flowering as sister but she is still much smaller, branches are shorter and tinner, will wait bit longer before go any heavier on her. Was able to nicely relocate longer branches of Athena all over the net. It's the end of this amazing week 😁 Thank you all for stopping by and for such amazing support on this bananas ride 🍌💜👊 Love you all brothers and sisters 💚💚💚

Moving right along I’m hoping this is the week she explodes. I’m thinking that I’ll keep her as a Christmas tree type as of now but that’s always subject to change. She’s a full 2 inches wider and her stem is about 3 times what it was last week in the update. She’s on full nutrients now so it’s only a matter of time.

21/05 Last day of this res EC: 1,2 PH: 6,1 22/05 CHANGED RES Made Defolation EC: 1,6 PH: 6,04 23/05 EC: 1,58 PH: 6,3 24/05 something wrong in the leafs. it looks like light burn: so I've choose to keep on only red light (bloom) and lowered the lighting time to 18-6 EC: 1,48 PH: 5,5 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Lesson Learned: IN THIS PHASE IT'S POSSIBLE TO USE ONLY BLOM LIGHT (RED) 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 25/05 EC: 1,47 PH: 5,9 26/05 EC: 1,38 PH: 5,51 27/05 EC: 1,47 PH: 6,1

👋👋Hi 👋 Week 1 of veg🌱 Soil, Living soil 💦water only 💦 💦water Ph 6.3💦 Day 10 added live soils crop cover 27g 💦Water ph 6.3 x 300 millilitres💦

Un altra settimana è passata e tutto procede bene.per fortuna non ho più trovato nessun nanners 🙏✌️💪..belle piantine mie, continuate così che farete delle belle pannocchie.... 30/8/24 gente ho combinato una bella cazzata.pur avendo esperienza, mannaggia a me,mi sono portato a casa dentro il box, il cazzo di ragnetto rosso... fanculo... Ho già iniziato a ripulire tutto, box e piante con Neem...li sterminerò tutti 😂..

Very happy with this strain and pheno, amazing results. A great find ! She grew like a dream from start to finish. Pharma labs test results in at 24% thc. Bravo Serious seeds ! Great work as usual !

Week 7 Veg Report 🌿✨ Hey Grow Fam! 🌱 Week 7 of veg is here, and let me tell you, the grow room is buzzing with life! Each of the girls is showing off her unique personality, and I’m especially stoked about the Papaya Zoap—she’s really coming into her own! The scrog net is nearly filled out just how I wanted it, and I can feel we’re so close to flipping to flower. The anticipation is real! 😁 But before we get to flowering, let’s take a dive into something that makes this grow so smooth—ThinkGrow LED drivers and cables. ThinkGrow LED Drivers – Plugging Into Success 💡🔗 This week, I had a chance to work deeper with the ThinkGrow LED system, and honestly, it’s like a dream come true for efficiency. I’ve been using the TLD-4 Four Spectrum Control Channels Model One LED Driver, and let me break down how it works. The drivers attach directly to the bars—super sleek and no extra bulk. And, the connections? It’s a matter of matching the male and female connectors on the TDC-2 Daisy Chain Cord. It’s like a simple puzzle that snaps together perfectly. The TDC-4 cord takes it to the next level, connecting the top bars to the ICL-300 Inner-Canopy LED Bar, giving complete control and balance across every layer of my canopy. Why is this important? The driver-to-bar connection ensures that each LED bar is operating optimally, and the daisy-chain system makes it effortless to manage multiple bars without a ton of wires everywhere. It’s neat, efficient, and delivers even light distribution, which my plants are loving! 🌞 Are My Girls Ready for Flower? 🌸 When I look at the plants up close, it’s like they’re whispering, “Flip me to flower already!” 😆 Their growth has been so vigorous, each filling out the space with character, and that scrog net is almost fully covered. So, I’m thinking we’re super close to the big switch. Each plant has its own pace, but as a whole, the grow is looking fantastic! Room Stats – Tuning Into the Environment 🌡️ The TrolMaster system is still killing it with data and control, making it easier for me to keep everything balanced. Here’s a quick breakdown of the week’s environmental numbers, and a few jokes along the way! 😜 • Room Temps: Max 25.5°C | Min 24.4°C (Keeping it cool but not too chill!) • RH: Max 76.4% | Min 67.1% (Humidity stays right where it needs to be.) • CO2: Max 832 ppm | Min 420 ppm (Shout out to that magical 420! 🌬️😂) • VPD: Max 1.06 kPa | Min 0.64 kPa (All dialed in for peak veg mode.) Light Levels – All in the Details 💡 • Max PPFD: 506 | Min 0 (because, you know, when the lights are off, it’s dark! 🌚😆) Keeping the light intensity balanced, and using the ThinkGrow LED system to spread that goodness across the entire canopy, I’m seeing explosive growth. Those PPFD levels are perfect for this stage! Water & Nutrients – The Lifeline 💧 • Solution pH: Max 6.32 | Min 5.78 (Keeping it in the perfect range.) • TDS: 355 ppm steady (Every drop counts, right?) • Solution Temp: Max 23.5°C | Min 22.3°C (Keeping things cool, just like the grow!) And medium moisture? It’s a solid 100% thanks to my AutoPots and the genius of the AquaValve system. No electricity needed—just gravity doing its magic. It makes my life so much easier, and the girls are loving the consistent hydration! No more worrying about under- or over-watering. Why I’m Obsessed with TrolMaster 📱 I can’t talk about this grow without shouting out the TrolMaster system. Every bit of data—whether it’s temperature, RH, VPD, CO2, light intensity, or pH—gets tracked and displayed in real-time on my app. It’s like having a grow assistant in my pocket, making sure I can monitor and adjust at any moment. The level of control I get with TrolMaster is out of this world, and it’s helping me keep everything dialed in perfectly. Ready to Flip Soon 🌸 With the Papaya Zoap filling out so nicely and the rest of the plants following suit, I feel like we’re right on the edge of flipping to flower. It’s going to be a smooth transition, and I can’t wait to see these beauties bloom! Stay tuned for next week, where we might just make that flip! 😉 Environment Stats Recap 📊 • Room Temp: Max 25.5°C | Min 24.4°C • RH: Max 76.4% | Min 67.1% • CO2: Max 832 ppm | Min 420 ppm (Seriously, shoutout to 420 again! 😂) • VPD: Max 1.06 kPa | Min 0.64 kPa • Light PPFD: Max 506 | Min 0 (obviously, when the lights are off! 😜) • Solution pH: Max 6.32 | Min 5.78 • Solution Temp: Max 23.5°C | Min 22.3°C • Medium TDS: Max 430 | Min 420 (I can’t get enough of these 420 jokes! 😆) Final Thoughts 💚 This week has been a blast! Between the ThinkGrow LED system and the TrolMaster gear, I feel like I’m pushing the limits of what’s possible in indoor horticulture. Everything is dialed in, the plants are healthy, and the data just keeps showing that we’re right on track. Shout Outs! As always, huge thanks to TrolMaster and ThinkGrow LED for the amazing gear, to Aptus Holland for their top-notch nutrients and Pro-Mix for the best soil i have used so far. Big love to the seed banks, the amazing Grow Diaries community, and all my followers—you guys make this journey so much more exciting. Don’t forget to catch up on my social media, Instagram, and YouTube for real-time updates and exclusive content! Stay tuned for more—next week is going to be epic! DogDoctorOfficial Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

6/9 I can't believe it but I had faith. The transplant yesterday LOOKED like it was fucked. I cleaned it up though and left it outside. This morning it was standing straight up. Both transplants were! I put tarps up to block the wind tunnel between buildings. It's still overcast and rainy. Sun isn't supposed to come out for a couple poke days. Chance of thubder storms tomorrow but I'm going to try to get everyone in their forever homes today. Or at least most of them. I plan to light dep a few right in the 3 gallon. I'm sure I'll be updating this after I get some work done. UPDATE: I WENT OVER AND GOT THREE MORE TRANSPLANTED. THAT MEANS FIVE ARE OUTSIDE IN THE CAGE. TWO 10TH PLANET, 2 BLUEBERRY CHEESE AND A LITTLE PURPLE PUNCH. THE 3 GALLON POTS WERE RELATIVELY HEAVY SO I PICKED THE LIGHTER ONES TO TRANSPLANT. I LEFT THE ORHER TWO 10TH'S IN THE GARAGE WITH THE DOOR OPEN WITH THE REMAINING PLANTS. I ALSO ADDED WIND BREAKS AND SUPPORTS TO EVERYTHING. I WANTED TO GET EVERUTHING DONE TODAY BUT THERE MAY BE A THUNDER STORM SO IF I DONT GET IT DONE ITS NOT A BIG DEAL AND ILL FINISH TOMORROW. TRANSPLANTS WENT SMOOTH. I THINK THEY'LL GO EVEN SMOOTHER IF THEY DRY OUT A BIT. STILL HAVE THE 50 AND 40'S TO FILL. Took a bunch of videos but the don't want to load. I'll have to try tomorrow or later tonight. UPDATE: I TOOK TONS OF PICTURES AND VIDEOS BUT THEY DONT WANT TO SEEM TO UPLOAD. IVE GOT SIX IN THERE FINAL HOMES OUTDOORS 20s and 30 gallon smart pots. Still have massive plants but I'm going to out those in the 50 and the 40. I'll finish this shit up tomorrow and get all the girls in their forever homes and if I don't have room for some I was planning on doing a light dep anyway so that will work out good. I learned a lot and transplanting went a lot smoother todsy than before. I feel really proud of myself. The last Transplant I did break a few leaves off that I didn't notice but whatever. I used tomato cages for suppirt on two and bamboo poles and string on the others. I'll add the vertical trellis as they grow. I'm proud of myself. 6/10 I got a lot done yesterday. Six are outside already. Two are in 20s in the garage. I'm planning on transplanting the rest today or tomorrow. I'll update later. Accidently uploaded lots of stuff on the wrong week. UPDATE: I TRANSPLANTED THAT SUPER TALL PURPLE PUNCH THAT I DIDNT TOP OR HST AT ALL INTO A 40 GALLON TUB. ROOTS WERE DRY AND THIS TIME IT ACTUALLY LOOKED LIKE THEY FELL AWAY. THE PLANT HOWEVER STAYED STANDINGVUP FINE. I THINK THIS PHENO IS GOING TO BE A TOUGH ONE. LOOKS GOOD LIKE AN HOUR LATER. I HAD THE 50 READY TO TRANSPLANT THIS MONSTER BLUEBERRY CHEESE I FIMed BUT THE POTS WERE SUPER HEAVY AND I FIGURED I NEEDED TO SLOW DOWN AND THINK. WE HAVE THUNDER STORMS COMING TONIGHT. TOMORROW IS GOOD. I MAY TRY TO FINISH UP TONIGHT BUT WE SHALL SEE. THE GOOD THING WITH DOING IT A FEW AT A TIME IS THAT IF SOMETHING HAPPENS OUTSIDE IVE STILL GOT A CROP INSIDE LOL. WHAT IM PLANNING TO DO IS EITHER LIGHT DEP THAT BIG BLUEBERRY CHEESE OR PUT IT IN THE FIFTY BUT IM PLANNING TO LIGHT 3 RIGHT IN THEIR 3 GALLON CONTAINERS. HAVENT DECUDED FOR SURE BUT IM THINKING THATS WHATS GOING TO HAPPEN.......of course videos won't upload and the ones that do are old videos. Damn. I need to sharpen my computer skills....and my growing skills. Especially transplanting. I suck at transplanting. I decided not to out all my eggs in one basket and left the 10th planet amd Blue berry cheese in the 20s in the garage. I pulled them out for light further but I'm ousting them back a little tonight. That way I'll have a back up if something catastrophic happens. I doubt it but better safe than sorry. I'm proud of what I've accomplished thus far. I've successfully uploaded my 1 minute plus video several times but it won't appear. Oh well. I'll try to load the videos tomorrow I guess. Just started raining. Just a light rain. Probably what fresh transplants like. 6/11 BEAUTIFUL outside. Today is the day. Most is done and I'll add the supports as trellis as they grow. This new grow space gets about twice as much sun as my old spot. The tar stops the burrowing insects. I'm getting everything out today. I just need to decide if I'm going to light dep that MASSIVE blueberry cheese or bite the bullet and put it in the fifty. Maybe I'll try to get some help from my cousin. Plants withstood the thunderstorm like Champs. I'll update as the day goes on. I planned better this year so I SHOULDN'T have an unmanageable jungle. UPDATE: WATERED THE 3 PLANTS LEFT IN THE 3 GALLONS (1 10th PLANET WITH GREAT BRANCH STRUCTURE AND TWO PURPLE PUNCH THAT WERE THE SMALLER ONES. IM GOING TO LIGHT DEP THEM. EVERYTHING IS OUTSIDE NOW IN A MIX OF 1/3 FOX FARM OCEAN FOREST, HAPPY FROG AND ROOTS ORGANIC 707 IN EQUAL PARTS. TRANSPLANTED WITH MYKOS. EVERYTHING IS OUTSIDE NOW. FINALLY DECIDED TO GET The MONSTER BLUE CHEESE I FIMed INTO ITS FOREVER HOME A 50 FALLON POT. IT WAS TGE EASIEST BEST TRANSPLANT OF THEM ALL. JUST LIKE AETTING A POT IN THE WHOLE. I DONT EVEN THINK THE PLANT NOTICED. ONE OF THE PURPLE PUNCHES HAD ROOTS OB ONE OF ITS LEAVES WHEN I LOOKED BUTVIT WAS STILL STANDING UO STEAIGHT. I KNOW SOME OF THE PLANTS LOOK DROOPY BUT WEVE HAD SEVERAL DAYS OF RAIN AND A MASDIVE THUNDER STORM. I BROUGHT OUT THE EARLIER TRANSPLANTS AS WELL. THEY ARE OUT OF THE SHOCK. WIND IS PRETTY HIGH BUT I DONT WANT TO ADD MORE TARPS. I THINK THINGS ARE SECURED GOOD ENOUGH FOR NOW. IM SUPER STOKED THAT TRANSPLANT WENT SO GOOD! Went back at 7:30pm. Some plants have a little bit of transplant shock and a little bit of burn but it's negligible considering they've been through a thunderstorm with pouring rain and extremely high winds. That blueberry cheese in the 50 transplanted so easy and still looks like it didn't even know the difference. I'll start light dep once I get a plan. Plants are recovering nicely but should something happen to one I could replace it. I'm interested in the light dep though and I've got a pretty good idea how to start. 6/12 The plants that had a little transplant shock are coming out of it. We had a thunderstorm and pouring rain the day of some of the transplants. Wasn't forecasted. High winds moved the plants around a bunch bit they are tough as hell. Everything is out now. Suppisedcto have showers the next few days. I'm putting together a feeding schedule abd setting up a spit to start light dep on the three plants I decided to flower early. The cage now gets twice as much sun as before. This is going to be a good year. Went back over and plants are perking up and doing even better everytime I see them. I took a video but it might not upload until tomorrow. I may start a new diary for the light dep. I have a few places I'm thinking to use for light dep. I need to make a solid plan before I start so maybe a day or two. Trying to upload again but I doubt it. 6/13 Had a rushed morning but I watered the plants in the 3 gallons as they were dry. I had added more soil to a couple of the bags. The top soil is startingvtj dry out but the plants look good and we are supposed to get rain so I don't really want to water if it's going to be raining. I think I've found my light dep spot and schedule. I'll update after I do something. WENT BACK OVER AND SPRAYED A LITTLE BIT OF WATER ON THE EXTREMELY DRY TOPSOIL THAT I HAD TOPPED SOME OF THE PLANTS OFF WITH. SHITTY THING IS THAT WAS ADDED AFTER THE THUNDER STORM SO IT MAKES IT HARDER TO JUSTE THE PLANTS WATERING NEEDS. I CAN TELL THAT ONE OFCTHE FIRST TEANSPLANTS IS STILL HOLDING WATER. I MEAN WE GOT A DOWNPOUR AND I DONT WABT TO WATER IF WE'RE GOING TO BE GETTING RAIN ANYWAY. IM GOING TO LOOK BACK OVER THE DIARY. THATS ONE GREAT THING ABOUT THESE. YOU CAN GO BACK AND CHECK YOUR WORK. 6/14 Glad I held off watering. It's raining today. Just showers. We haven't gotten any of that extreme wind we usually do. I have the plants supported but I still worry. Definitely more than I should. Plants are still doing good and acclimating to there homes. I have not started the light dep with the 3 gallons but I think I've found my spot. Once I start it will just be staying consistent putt8ng them in and out. I need to train them anyway. I have some research to do and a joint to smoke so I'll update later.

Adding in a 65 W Horticulture Lighting Group quantum board has really helped my dessert cheese develop! This plant has nice even growth and thick stems and branches! It’s shorter than the sativas, with fatter leaves. The ambient humidity has been dry. I used a cool steam vaporizer with some lavender and eucalyptus oils to add some h2o to the air and gas out potential insects. Having the remaining pots in larger containers has helped stabilize the humidity. Added nematodes day 37

Salve a tutti e benvenuti nel mio diario !!! Oggi 5 /10/20 prima settimana di fioritura l'altezza media delle bimbe senza contare le 2 più piccoline e di 40 cm fino alla più grande che è 60. Domani incomincio con il fertilizzante per la fioritura. Se ti piace il mio prato lascia un like !!! Buon cultivo !!!

Feb 8 Today marks the 13th week of these girls, it’s been an amazing 1st grow, would highly recommend this strain for first time growers, even the one that had some issues ended up surprising me late flower with new growth, and somehow basically caught up with the strong girl in size, but not density. I learned a lot about how these plants like to be treated, and I will definitely implement new methods to improve my cultivation! See you on harvest day!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600