Week 9 Light cycle=12/12 Light Power=180w Extractor controller settings High temp= 24c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 50% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=10.01-21.59 Radiator on= below 22.0c Radiator off= above 23.0c Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=22.00-10.00 Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Fri 16/2/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=bloom nutes. Neutralise=0.1ml/L Silicon=1.0ml/L Calmag=0.75ml/L Terra Bloom=4.0ml/L Sumo Boost=2.0ml/L Roots=0.2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.11ml/L Ec=1.85 PH=6.4/6.6 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=13L(13.5L) Total volume left=3L Total volume used=10.5L Volume per plant=2.6L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1.2L Ec=2.13 PH=6.1/6.3 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 57)(Day 19 flower) 📋 Because this is quite a bit further away from the light then the rest of the grow she wasn't showing signs of light stress but because the others are i had to turn down the power from 180w to 170w. New DLi=35.0 Sat 17/2/24 #3 (Day 58)(Day 20 flower) 📋 H=74cm D=30cm DLI=37.0 Sun 18/2/24 #3 (Day 59)(Day 21 flower) 📋 Lowered light power again as they are showing a bit of stress from the light. Power was 170w now 160w. I'm going to have to have a think about my next grow, either I stick with this tent and hit the plants hard with light when I flip to flower to keep them small, or try and cram a slightly bigger tent in the space allocated for it. This tent is 61×76×150cm with the option to extend it to 173cm. Mine is configured to the 150cm height, but because its extendable the top 30cm is inaccessible at the best of times let alone when the plants reach a decent height. Extending this tent will be pointless because that's another 23cm of inaccessible space. Besides I only have a max head room for 160cm where the tent is. Mon 19/2/24 #3 (Day 60)(Day 22 flower) 📋 H=75cm D=29cm DLI=37.0 Tue 20/2/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=water Neutralise=0.1ml/L Easy Ph down=0.01ml/L Ec=0.2 PH=6.2/6.2 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=13L Total volume left=2.4L Total volume used=10.6L Volume per plant=2.6L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1.25L Ec=1.33 PH=6.4/6.4 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 61)(Day 23 flower) 📋 Wed 21/2/24 #3 (Day 62)(Day 24 flower) 📋 Thur 22/2/24 From today I'll have to pull out the front 2 plants to get any pictures of the back 2. #3 (Day 63)(Day 25 flower)****** 📋 H=80cm D=26cm DLI=37.0 Lowered runoff rack. Pots may be sat in runoff slightly. Lowered light power from 160w to 150w. H=80cm D=30m DLI=35.0 Even with the pot raised she is still quite a bit below the canopy, unlike the other plants she isn't showing any signs of light stress. She is coming along at a decent pace, maybe not quite as quick as the other 2 test strains. Back soon. Take it easy.

day 73 I was not ready for all this! 🤣🤣 they literally exploded, even though the buds of El Patron are much thinner than the purple queen I have in my tent, I had to tie them up so that the weight of the flowers didn't break the branches. I have to say that 6 photoperiods are too many for my 1m x 1m x 2m tent. in addition to this I have noticed that they are very hungry. like me and give me some advice. thanks for stopping by, have a nice day and happy cultivation 💚🌳💚🌳

Good finish by cookies elephant trunk. I’m going to take on the elements and finish these outside. I’m going to fill tents out as dry tents Dr. Zymes as preventative and active pest control. No BT just 👁️ balled those worms

I finally broke a pound with a single autoflower! Couldn’t have done it without AGLEX cob led’s, Remo Nutrients, and coco coir. They’ve changed my game completely! This grow started off as a pretty standard grow. I did absolutely no training until the veg period was winding down, and pre-flower was beginning. As the SCROG net went in, a little later than planned, numb fingers due to cervical spinal issues, and a poorly time muscle spasm, I snapped the main stalk...disaster right? Apparently not! They’re tough plants! Within a day or so she was perked up and sending up new colas from all the growth nodes now exposed to the 2000w AGLEX cob led’s. These lights have transformed my grow process, and increased my yields by over 300% compared to my old led’s, and only draws 408w from the wall. 1.23g/w is quite satisfactory I didn’t have much tucking to do this grow after the original SCROG. Due to the fact I was a little late getting the SCROG net in place, she didn’t have too much stretch left in her, she certainly fattened up quite nicely though, almost too much so in places. The front left side of the SCROG net got awfully crowded with huge buds packed tightly together. Lesson learned...keep the branches spaced apart slightly further, and maybe allow slightly more vertical growth of the colas to allow slightly better light, and air flow penetration. My issue is I only have 6 foot ceilings in my tents. The ceiling in my grow room is only a little over 6’2”. I managed, through SCROG techniques, without topping or fimming, to keep the top of my canopy 24” from the floor. This allows plenty of space above for the AGLEX cob, and exhaust fan. After last feeding I flushed with just Ph’ed water for 5 days, then gave the plant 48 hours of darkness, to rid itself of chlorophyll before harvesting on November 4th and hanging in a drying rack. It’s still curing in jars but after trying a few samples, it’s an awesome strain, and hits hard. It’s not as hard as it sounds to fill a 4x4 tent with a single autoflower, and still pull 18 ounces (504g) out of that tent. With simple SCROG technique, defoliation, quality grow medium you can achieve the same results. Of course you’ll need an AGLEX 2000w cob, but for an 18 ounce return on a $300CAD light, in 3 months, it’s a no brainer folks! You won’t find a better light under $300 Canadian. You’ll also need a quality nutrient line, and it’s hard to go wrong with the Remo Supercharged Kit. The proof of those 2 products quality are in my harvest. I hope this has helped improve your own grows somehow :) Head over to YouTube and visit my channel, just search for Scrog Freak, or click the link below. Drop a like and subscribe, more videos and logs to come! Recently entered a Gelato OG Grow Off and will be posting updates and instructional videos there. Check it out! Thanks and good growing! ScrogFreak https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDFY6EjqIMqv2peq1d1eM1Q

Been battling bud rot that's slowly growing. Setting up the tarp before every rain storm is a lot of work but I think it has prevented a lot of loss. It was definitely the little green worms that got to these gals. Chopping a little sooner than I'd like but having to be away for school and worsening weather leaves me little choice.

Flo depuis 4 jours Placer dans la tente spécial flo 2000w led full spectrum control humidité température pour un vpd de 1/1,10 kPa 👌 humidificateur fait maison au top du top

the White Widow is doing really good , she has become this very luscious bushy plant , with loads of pretty, firm buds, who will still have to thicken a whole lot, so I'm really looking forward to seeing her proceed in this pace 🙏🙏🙏

Final flush this week and start the ripen feed

A good result despite the irregularly conditions. Fast flowering for this beautiful plant.

Overview of my grow: Tent: Secret Jardin DS120 4 x 4 (120 cm by 120 cm) Lights: 2 x 120 Watt CTlite c4 clusterled Climat: Trotec Dehumidifyer 240 watt- 10L/24h Filter: Prima Klima carbon filter PK2600 fan: 2 x Secret Jardin 20watt osc. fan Pots: Gronest 4 x 11 liter airpots Water : automated water system PH: bluelab Nutrients: Plagron cocos A + B Plagron PK 13/14 ATA cal/mag Epsom salt Week 8 She really is getting fat, trichomes are all over the buds now and there is an amazing smell. i give this week again a PK boost and it seems to work.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

I would just like to so thanks to Sweet Seeds for this grow as it is sponsored, love you guys. Just germinating now and getting the tent set up for the new grow will update when i got to plant. thanks for popping by and keep your stick on the ice 😀 Update the little girl is just starting to pop above the coco

Sour Jealousy Auto FastBuds 2025 Outside Grow Week 3 April 20-26 Veg This week was mostly sunny in the mid-eighties and low 60s at night with an occasional drop into the low 50s. I added kelp fertilizer to the water twice during the week. She is about 3 inches tall. I have had her under a dome for these past two weeks. This week, after heavy rain, I removed it for good since the leaves were touching the sides. Hopefully no renegade squirrels trample her. Pics taken 4/21 & 24 Your likes and comments are appreciated. Thanks for stopping by. Growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

3/4/2023 Week 3- Day 1 of Veg (Day 31 overall) Water Change out Day 36 Gallons in CalMag = .5Mil/Gal = 18Mil FloraMicro = 4.2Mil/Gal = 151Mil FloraGrow = 3.8Mil/Gal = 137Mil FloraBloom = 3.0Mil/Gal = 108Mil PH DOWN = 1.72Mil/Gal = 62Mil PPM = 546 PH = 5.88 This Grow has definitely been an interesting grow I have been playing with Over or Under since the beginning and it all started with me drowning the plants by adding too much water. I will have to make sure I watch that on all my future grows. I prayerful that this week will get me fully back on track, in my previous grows using my chart, I haven't had any issues during this week, so again prayerful that this is the week I am back on point. 3/5/2023 Week 3- Day 2 of Veg (Day 32 overall) ROOT ROT!!! I guess from when I drowned it I caused a lurking issue that really showed it's head today. The roots were looking not slightly bleached but looking black. I cut out what looked dead and I had to run to the local Hydro shop to pick up some items to see if I can fix it and strengthen the plants. I picked up Mammoth Silica, ORCA, and ROOT Drip. I completely drained the system and started it over today as well. 38 Gallons In Mammoth Silica = .5Mil/Gal = 19Mil CalMag= .5Mil/Gal = 19Mil Root Drip = 1Mil/Gal = 38Mil FloraMicro = 4.2Mil/Gal = 160Mil FloraGro = 3.8Mil/Gal = 144Mil FloraBloom = 3.0Mil/Gal = 114Mil Orca = .5Mil/Gal = 19Mil PH Down 60 Mil = PH 5.83 I also had to run by Staples I realized the paper I was using wasn't the right brightness and Lbs for the Photon App. What I needed to have 22Lbs 98 Bright. I recently saw a comparison of the different weight papers against a several hundred dollar Apage PPFD detector and with the right paper it was almost exact readings. With that my PPFD 355. 3/6/2023 Week 3- Day 3 of Veg (Day 33 overall) Still alive!! #2 and #3 are still alive and it looks like no further damage to any of the leaves. #2 needed 1 node topped. I will keep monitoring day to day. 3/7/2023 Week 3- Day 3 of Veg (Day 34 overall) Well Both appear to be doing all right. I cut off the offensive leaves from #3 nothing new on shown on the leaves. I actually needed to top 1 node on #2. PH is stable, Temps are stable.. I will be changing out the water and Nutes on Saturday not waiting the 2 weeks. 3/8/2023 Week 3- Day 4 of Veg (Day 35 overall) Well Both appear to be doing all right. I actually needed to top 1 node on #3 and 2 on #2. PH is stable, Temps are stable.. I will be changing out the water and Nutes on Saturday not waiting the 2 weeks. I think the additives are truly making a difference I think I will be adding them to all my grows from here on out. 3/9/2023 Week 3- Day 5 of Veg (Day 36 overall) Both still appear to be on the mend Still some dark brown on a small part of the roots and I don't know if those are just dead but it doesn't look like it is spreading and I see a bunch of new roots forming. Nothing new on the leaves at all. So I think the trio that I added is helping. The plants also seem to be in raised happy position going towards the light. I still plan to change the water on Saturday and go from there. 3/10/2023 Week 3- Day 6 of Veg (Day 37 overall) Moved the light up to 41 1/2" so 3' 4 1/2" away from the top of the Plants. PPFD= 363 Power on my Light =62.5 Water Temp is holding steady=70.3 PPM= 534 PH= 5.92 Tent Temp= 72.5 Humidity= 50-60% I have 2 humidifiers running on INK Bird controllers monitoring it 24/7. I will be changing out the water tomorrow even though I could let it go an extra week but I am still concerned that the Root Rot is clearing up and I don't want to risk it coming back. I want fresh Nutes/ water in the tanks. I topped 2 nodes on #3 I topped 3 Nodes on #2 I also cleaned out some of the bottom third portion that isn't getting much light and not much growth at all. #2: 8 1/2" tall, 18" Wide #3: 7 1/2" Tall, 15" Wide

Day 42-49 (Day 42) Just watered today but couldn’t go until runoff because I didn’t have enough RO. I forgot to add the probiotic too. Nonetheless, everything is starting to recover from those weird deficiencies and is looking super healthy. Plants are really bushing out now too. I had to top the zkittlez and BBB#3 again as they are just getting too big. Nothing is definitively showing sex yet but I’m seeing clues. Shouldn’t be long now. If I get 4 females or less I will use 10gal pots, 5-7 fem 5gal pots and 8-12 3gal pots. I need to stop overwatering. Even though it doesn’t look too overwatered, it is much better to water a little bit each day at lights on. This will help keep the humidity down as well as deliver optimal oxygen to the roots speeding up plant growth considerably. (Day 45) Gave an EM1 spray down today. The beneficial bacteria is said to overpopulate surfaces so powdery mildew and septoria can’t form. Something seems to be really working as I haven’t seen any yet. (Day 47) I sealed up the tent and am running both dehumidifiers and it’s keeping the RH around a safe 70% night and day which is right on track with VPD. Plants are all looking super healthy. Deficiencies have pretty much all cleared up. Cold nights I’m running 600w and warmer nights I’ll run 400w. I was asking around Instagram about white ash/good burn and a few different people assured me it has to do with mineral content of the soil. I was told the three best products for clean ash is glacial rock dust/basalt, oyster shell flour and langbeinite. I already have langbeinite so I’ll grab the other amendments today and top dress. I grabbed the amendments and also got some Destiny Organics dark matter super soil, coco and some beneficial nematodes. Top dressed each amendment except langbeinite and mulched in some coco coir. (Day 48) My shelf came in today and I think it may be to big for the 4x4 tent. Each square is 12”, not the 11.8” advertised. I could wipe down my flower room and set it up in there which would give my plants a good adjustment to the new lights before I flip. Or I could set it up in the veg tent but that seems like a huge hassle as the need to be moved and flipped soon anyway. I wish they would show sex already so I can toss out the plants I’m not keeping. For flower I am considering starting over fresh with the new Destiny soil and coco mixed with some amendments. I’m concerned that my current mix might be too hot. I could also dilute it with the Destiny/coco mix. Those little bulb mites that came in with the worm castings are a little concerning as well. Some say they are just beneficial composters aka “worm bin mites” and others are telling me they’re predatory bulb mites which destroy crops like garlic. I’m leaning towards beneficial composters but in another grow I watched them devour a seedling before it sprouted. Gotta check the current roots but the plants aren’t quite ready to be transplanted. (Day 49) Got everything in the flower tent wiped down and sprayed with alcohol then EM1 few hours later. Got the shelf set up and got all my temp controls set up and running. I put the controllers outside the tent this time and will patch any light leaks. Gave a lite compost tea at 830ppm and a velokelp foliar spray at 6ml/L. This will be the last veg feeding before I transplant into their final containers on the 31st. BCTG#2 is a confirmed male and I pulled him. No one else is showing definitively. Roots looked super healthy with very few mites but I’m not 100% convinced they’re all clean. I saw a few mites on leaves today too. Saw a bit of droop after the move but they all look happy just a few hours later. Took a few clones from some sucker branches on a few of the blackberries.

First week of flowering really beginning to develop a strong scent.