9 Tage getrocknet. Pflanze 1 - 92g Pflanze 2 - 88g

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

The overall cycle had to deal with alot of heat issues and lighting so what they did product is certainly top quality flowers just short on there stretch period so will run again to make a certain opinion but as of now no hermis and all seeds flowered apart from one tiny plant 10 girls all to harvest shows stable genicitic traits from these girls also , height , bud structure colour shape smell all seem to be closer to a match of each other

Gg

The plant turned out to be a photoperiod and I am unsure if the seed tender has sold me the right seeds. The plant smells weird... like onion sort of... very leafy and very very sensitive to humidity and mould. This was not an easy grow by far, I was constantly maintaining these fruit autos and it just hard such an odd structure. I would say grow these lower THC strains (under 20% thc) in super organic soil. Coco was what i was using with some worm castings as a top dress throughout flower.

This girl is stretching like no tomorrow. I have to keep her around wind breakers or else she would be history. I fed her some hole made worm tea and she is loving it.

Hello Diary, Finished the second week of growing on my little Farm and as you can see from the photos, Milky Way F1 is growing nice and fast without any problems so far. I only water it every 4-5 days and watch her and her roommates flourish and grow. Milky Way F1 grew a little more than 10 cm in a week, which is great, It got a lot of new leaves, maybe the most if I compare it with Apollo and Titan. Lighter spots are still visible on the leaves, but there are none on the new leaves, as if it has matured and strengthened. And they started showing the first signs of flower formation. It will be much more visible next week. As I mentioned, watering is not that frequent, every 4 days she gets about 2 liters of water, like her two roommates. This time I added Bigger Flowers from the Bio Flowering Booster palette. In my opinion, the conditions on the farm are satisfactory, the humidity is still around 50% and the temperature is around 25 degrees. A brief overview of the week. 08/05/2023 - Day 9. Watering. I prepared about 6 liters of water, lowered the pH to 6.0 and added Bigger Flowers. I watered all three plants evenly with that amount. 12/05/2023 - Day 13. Watering. This time I didn't add Bigger Flowers, I just regulated the p.H. value. 13/05/2023 - Day 14. Photographing and height measurement. Officially the end of the second week of growing season. Milky Way F1 - 18 cm That's all for this week, thank you all for your support and see you soon.

10.15.23 - Both plants watered with 6.4 pH + 3ml CalMag + 10ml Bloom + 0.5 TSP RECHARGE. I'll be going up to 15ml/bloom from now on. I did a pretty aggressive "final" defoliation and pruning of lower bud sights. Plants are still very green and happy. :) 10.17.23 - Girls are getting thirsty. Soil was nearly bone dry - gonna have to start watering more frequently. Watered today @ 6.4pH + 3ml CalMag + 15ml Bloom + 0.75 TSP Recharge. Did some additional pruning and the leaves are still very green and praying 10.19.23 - Both watered with 6.3pH + 3ml CalMag + 15ml Bloom. No recharge this feed, in a time crunch. Officially done defoliating / pruning. Time to just feed and let them go from now on :) Day 19 flower 10.21.23 - Both watered with 6.35pH + 3ml CalMag + 15ml Bloom + 1 TSP RECHARGE. The early developing trichomes are already over the fan leaves and are wildly sticky. The new smells are incredible and can't wait for them to get stronger over the next few weeks 10.21.23 - UPDATE: I took my 'end of week 3' photos and noticed that a lot of the leaves are showing early signs of overfeeding of P/K or both. Will be carefully measuring input/output from here on to ensure a slight lowering of soil EC.

Decided to transplant the ladys because they werde Not so happy in their small cups. Now they got plants of space in their new 55l pot🍋🍒🍦 Plant in back needs more nitrogen

my first coco grow...2 plants 1. northern light auto untopped in spider farmer tent 150x150 cm (5×5) with Aptus nutrients...this one goes out of control...let see if I can repeat this crazyness 2. northern light auto topped in spider farmer tent 70x70 cm and mainly TA nutrients Nutrients mentioned above are for NL topped (2.) in smaller tent (pictures follow) NL untopped (F-MILF) got this week the following: Aptus Topbooster 6 drops/l Aptus P-boost 12 drops/l Aptus K-boost 6 drops/l (this week added new) Aptus regulator 3 drops/l Aptus All in one 0.6 ml/l Aptus CaMg 0.6 ml/l TA Silicate 0.4g/l End of week 10 installed some self-watering (3 days off)...with coco problematic let see...final two weeks will be completely without any manual influence (2 weeks off)...hopefully staying alive

Amazing told this run 110 grams of bud and 80 grams of shake. An amazing pungent fruity citrus cream cheese aroma eminates out of my cure vault. The high has been described by my friends as a creative uplifting high followed by intense couch lock. The grow itself was a breeze. The only real issues i had in the hydro grow was that i needed to to add cal mag because it was growing so fast and i was using distilled water. I basically did not train my plants other than defoliating to make space for air flow and light penetration. I would recommend this for any first time hydro grower that has a decent amount of space.

Jiffy germination peat tablets were used for germination. Seeds were put there straight out of the capsule, I haven't put the seeds into the water as I had done before for previous grows.

Our Fruit Punch Automatic are both doing great. Remember that we are growing 1 Plant worked with the techniques and one left to grow without cutting techniques to preserve its speed. In this diary we find the plant that is growing straight, just a little defoliation. I exaggerated with the Nitrogen a little and we have some yellow tips, we will use it to explain the problems on Zamnesia, but I did not do it on purpose, it remains a small mistake that if possible is to be avoided. Small if it does not go much further now the plant is taking bloom but up to a couple of days before the photos it took ALga Grow. The comparison is the salt of the experience so the plant in the other diary will be worked very differently go and see it to compare them. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhiza Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We are administering // 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 3 ml/l Alga Grow We have sprayed Vita Race Foliare 3 ml/l. https://plagron.com/en The doubts about the compatibility between Pure Zym and mycorrhizae have been dispelled, they can get along according to Plagron experts. If someone tells you that enzymes eat mycorrhizae, which in principle may seem possible, explain to them that it is not true. https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/growing/452-easy-roots-mix-di-micorrhize.html One of the best in recent years with a very high THC level -------------------------------------------------------- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10965-zamnesia-seeds-fruit-punch-automatic.html Brief description of Zamnesia // Sativa strains are very rewarding to grow, but their long flowering times and their greater susceptibility to disease and overfertilization can make them a little more difficult to manage. Also, their imposing heights are less suitable for indoor use and can attract unwanted attention if grown outdoors. However, with the arrival of Fruit Punch Automatic, growing sativa strains at home just got a whole lot easier. Combining Skunk #1, Haze and ruderalis, Fruit Punch Auto is 70% sativa dominant and produces up to 21% THC, along with a delicious blend of terpenes. Plus, it can be grown indoors, outdoors and in greenhouses. With their bright green hues, golden pistils and thick layer of resin, Fruit Punch Auto buds always have a great appeal. When you smoke her, you will be amazed by her flavours, aromas and effects! As the name suggests, Fruit Punch Automatic boasts delicious tropical aromas reminiscent of banana, pineapple, mango and citrus. When you open the jars you will feel like you are in a tropical cocktail bar on an exotic beach. Fruit Punch Auto will delight your palate with pungent fruity notes followed by light notes of Skunk and spice on the exhale. Within minutes of your first hit, this potent sativa will stimulate your mind, leaving you in an energetic and carefree state, ideal for morning or daytime sessions, as well as social settings or creative pursuits. You can find the entire world of growing on Zamnesia and more, just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... The new strains are great and the old ones are no exception... p.s. no Hermaphrodites yet, growers, can you say the same? --- // www.zamnesia.com

13/12 in week 5 i started by adjusting LST mainly on the Blueberry a bit since she was getting real bushy. I will probably defoliate at least the first pair of leaves. the others i try tucking away but they keep overshadowing the two lower main nodes. Blueberry really started drinking now, her pot is getting really light. Afghan kush not so much, she is still sipping on the last watering. I hope Afghan Kush ramps up overnight by some miracle cause i really like to always water them both at the same time, rather than having to prepare nutes twice and them being on a different watering schedule. but oh well! Blueberry will get her dose tomorrow, we will se about the afghan. Not much happened until now, they slowly begin their stretch now. maybe we will see some proper early flowers by the end of this week! Judging by their grow rate, im guessing they will take their sweet time, 12-14 weeks or something. Which sucks cause i got brand new air pots i want to try! but you cant win every gamble with autos. 14/12 Watered them with 2 Liters after 7 Day Break. Blueberry picked up the pace, Afghan was "dry enough". Ususal nutrients, added some minor calmag as prevention for any future deficiencies. 18/12 Watered Blueberry with 2L, 2ml/l Grow, Activera and Rootjuice, and 0.2g/l Microbes. Defoliated both of them pretty good. Afghan is skipping watering until 20/12, which will be week 6, she is still a tad too heavy for my likings. 19/12 just some minor leaf tucking and defoliation of the lowest leaves on the afghan. Watering will still take place on 20/12. Will add timelapse for this week tomorrow!

Week 6! Day 44: 2L (PH6.3) + half-dose 4-1.5-4 + 1ml/L CalMag Today. I learned that with half strength Bloom Feed and a dose of CalMag Pro, the PH of the solution ends up at exactly 6.3 - this means that most of my watering of last grow was too acidic because I often still added PH- Nonetheless, while checking up on the NLA I noticed her symptoms progressing and I did what any self respecting grower would do: remove the evidence. Coincidentally, I've removed most of the damaged leaves to make checking up on her easier and to more easily figure out whether she's improving or deteriorating. Additional thoughts: While inspecting the pictures again, I noticed that perhaps some of the damage might be a pointer towards the phosphorus toxicity theory, caused by the premature PK13-14 feed, and the additional feed of last week. That said, perhaps it's a convenience that the Pokon bloom feed does not contain that much phosphorus relatively - and since it's an organic nutrient it will not immediately raise phosphorus levels even higher. Hence, this week will mostly be focused on monitoring her symptoms, while the buds are steadily thickening up. Day 46: Moist, no water. Her symptoms are progressing, I noticed that some of the leaves have a tighter gradient from green at the stem, to yellow about half way the leaf. What this means? I have no idea, I'd like to think it's a response to the fresh supply of Nitrogen from the bloom feed. However, it's just as likely that this tighter gradient went unnoticed until now. She's got some pretty rough nute burn, so I think the best course of action is to stop feeding her entirely for now. I'm quite certain that, with the PK13-14 and the organic bloom feed, she'll have enough nutrients for the coming period. Buds are thickening up nicely though. Her terpenes are starting to develop and I can see more and more trichomes appearing. Day 48: 2L (6.3PH) Her symptoms progressed even further, I'm not worried though. I removed more leaves from the lower, shaded area. Day 50: Moist, no water She seems to have stabilised, I have added two sets photos of leaves. One set of day 48, one set of the current day: 50. And with that, week 6 comes to a conclusion. Her symptoms indeed have stabilised while her buds have noticeably put on mass. For week 7, I expect to just water and monitor her growth.

The pool just got 1 more guest Strawberry Lemonade. I don't know if I mentioned it but we added Moon Walker Kush last week. Slurricane is finally semi happy, really she has been a pain in the ass. I had to drill a hole in her Dutch bucket, I think she is allergic to water..... really she has been a ball buster. Gorilla Zkittles is almost black. She looks Beautiful.... Shiskaberry and Blue Gelato 41 are coming along nicely.

Due to construction and revamping of our space, we had to leave all seedlings in their germination dome for approximately a month before getting them into veg. In order to not run into any space issues within the small dome, these young plants were kept under a low-wattage fluorescent tube to avoid any growth which may have been "too vigorous." VEG WEEK 1: 03/09/2021: (Image 1) Each plant was potted into, and fed with the following nutrients during transplant: 1. 5l FF F1 medium 2. GHF: Biogrow - 15g worked into medium 3. Wormcastings (workd into medium and astop dress) 4. Organics Matter Mycoroot Supreme -placed at the bottom of the planting hole. 5. Watered each plant with a Silicon Plus feed solution . 07/09/2021: (Image 2) - All plants are now in 5l pos with Freedom Farms F1 medium, and are in their new veg home under a 3500K 320W Quantum Board. - The 3 weakest seedlings of the total 19 seeds (1x Crit and 2x PC) were placed on the left side of the tent, and in different pots, as they are obviously struggling and may not even make it into our final flower room.

Esta fue una semana de mucha lluvia y humedad, se la ve bien sin signos de hongos en persona se ve un engorde significativo en esta semana. Nos falta reparar la malla sombra que se hizo un hueco en el medio y tambien nos falta hacerle supercroping ya que las puntas de mas arriba siguen recibiendo un poco de luz durante la noche

Week 7 Day 43 to 49 of flower I fed them half nute flush water this week. Feed this week was 1.25 gallons 1 time. I used 400ppm Bloom concentrate mix (recipe week 5). However, I also added .5ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and 7ml of Roots Organics HP2 (Aurora Innovations 0-4-0). PH balance this week was 6.3. Since P2 looked mostly ready to harvest I decided to dry out after the first feed this week. Next week is play by ear week. Currently day 48 I plan to harvest p2 tomorrow and leave p1 for another week. So I will feed p1 once more with the same half nute flush water feed that I used this week then let her dry out again.