Hi again! Franky has been stretching a lot. I did a "big" defoil on day 20 to stop the stretching. I didn't do too much I think. Tried to take out a lot of big leafs and did a bit of lollipopping from beneath. It was the biggest and most exhausting defoil I did so far. Took hours and eventually sometime I got tired. :D Today is day 24 of flowering btw. I started adding Epsom salt in a very small dose and also started adding green sensation from plagron to fight the red leaf stems and discolorings on some leafs that were indicating a lack of magnesium & phosphor. It seems to have taken the first dose very well. I'm extremely pleased with the looks so far. I will try to send into flowering earlier tho next time cuz this sht is growing wild. :D

BIGGER:STRONGER:FASTER #NITROHAZE #OUTDOORGANG D115 Han engordado más los cogollos, se ven resinosos-atricomados-nevados y eso que aún no entra mucho en floración. Veo que aún crece y se sigue estirando haciendo caso omiso a entrar en floración y queriendo directamente crecer aún más y estirar sus brazos(todos). Se ve que es muy buena compañera. En las noches la estoy entrado a un cuarto oscuro para que pueda cumplir sus 12 horas de oscuridad. D120 (26julio)Avanzando en su floración, intento no regar mucho porque la humedad de noche es mucha y cuesta que baje lo húmedo del sustrato. Ah entregado muchos tricomas, ah comenzado a nevar. Lento pero Seguro. D121 Me encantan esas fotos nocturnas donde se ve la nieve ❄️🌨️

Went away for seven days had a friend come by and water the garden Absolutely exploded since I’ve seen them last very pleased with all of the plants except for mystery auto number one. It is disappointing me some but hopefully the top will bring more growth. Can’t wait to see these continued to develop!!!

Do you think her leafs are getting fatter? how thick are they though, seriously ?? so thick ! that's that 100% indica i guess, really striking to see her asleep with those fat leafs isnt it? tried out the obscurity to try and get some nice in, hope you find them nice ! i really like that dramatic effect with the lighting and the shadow but to be honest i'm not the most talented photographer so i dont really know if it's working for you or not, so let me know ! she's growing as expected basically, squat, short, thick, doesnt really need that much attention, so far these genetics are an absolute pleasure to grow ! Raised the lights to the normal height, reduced the light schedule to 13/11, fed with some biocanna i had on hand, added some specialized flower micro : that's mag sulfur and cal mag , hopefully this will make the end product more pungent and more potent. let's see some flowers amirite?

Week 2 Grow Diary Update Man…now we’re actually growing plants. We officially crossed over from “staring at dirt and anxiety” into “oh shit, they changing every morning.” This week taught me a LOT about phenotypes and personalities. Same tent. Same soil. Same light. Same environment. Four completely different attitudes already. 🌱 Couch Slumper #1: Quiet assassin energy. Clean structure. Sharp serrations. Tight node spacing. Looking like the kid in class that doesn’t say much but casually gets a 98 on every test. 🌱 Gassy Eddy #1: Balanced. Chill. Reliable. Gives me “solid starter on a playoff team” vibes. Not flashy, but healthy and stable. 🌱 Gassy Eddy #2 aka Wemby: This fool built like Victor Wembanyama already. Stretchy ass stem. Had to add more soil around him because bro was growing like a newborn giraffe. But the vigor is CRAZY. 🌱 Couch Slumper #2 aka E. Honda: Started off fighting for his life with the membrane and shell situation. Thought he might be cooked. Nope. Little dude came back compact, thick, squat, and built like he’s ready to slap somebody 100 times in Street Fighter. Definitely the most unique pheno so far.

After you found some good sector and clone it you let the mycelium grow and fill almost all the petri dish like I did last week. So now you're ready to move forward. Making grain spawn!🍄🍄 For grain you can use Organic Rye Berries, but you can also get away with wheat berries, or brown rice or even corn kernels(which I used myself) ! And you'll need some mason jars or honestly I used some jars that I had home just clean them very well and sterilise before using Making a grain spawn can be broken down into 6 easy steps. 🍄Hydrate Grain By Soaking 🍄Make Specialized Lids 🍄Simmer, Drain and Dry The Grain 🍄Sterilize 🍄Put your agar in the jar 🍄Colonize 🍄Soak the grain by placing it in a bucket, covering in water, and leaving it for 12 -24 hours. Easy. 🍄Drill 1 hole on top of the lid. Right in the center and cover with a small dab of high temperature silicone sealant, and leave it overnight to dry. And your jars are done. There other diff types for different methods like liquid culture etc. But I'm just going roughly through what Ive done. 🍄The next step is to simmer the grains on the stove. This will thoroughly hydrate the grains, and will soften them to make them easier for the mushroom mycelium to consume. Cook soaked grain on the stove for about 15 minutes. You don’t want to cook it too long, because eventually all the grain will crack and you’ll get some mushy grain spawn. We don't want that. 🧐After the grains have simmered on a low boil, you’ll need to drain them off. What I did is I drop them in the sink with the drain cover on. The grains will drain over an hour or so, after which you can go ahead and fill your jars. 🍄Once your jars are filled, they need to be sterilised.This kills off all the other nasty contaminants in the grain cover the lids in tinfoil (to prevent water dripping into the lid) and then just pressure sterilise them for about 90 minutes at 15 psi. 🍄After that let them cool down. Get your SAB, wipe down the walls with some alcohol wipes and place the jars inside. And wait untill they will be warm to the touch... not hot and painful 😤patience is key. Bring in your plates that had been stored by you in a dark place. And what u have to do is sterilise your scalpel and just accurately and efficiently decide your mycelium into about 10 pieces and quickly place them in your jar. And complete for every jar u make. You have to be very quick. The more you keep you're jar and your agar plates lids open the more cans they will get contaminated. There certain technics you can see online.. 🍄Ones you're done close all your jars lids tight and Jake your jar so the mycelium pieces will mix around the jar and place them in the dark place to colonize. And just keep waiting... 😅 Untill the mycelium will conquer your grain. Keep your eyes on the jars, any weird smells or colour during the waiting time.. because that would mean you got a contamination going on. Oh yeah and when about 55% of your jar is filled with mycilium shake the sh*t out of it so it will break the mycilium inside and make spread more faster.

Llegamos al final, este apartado lo finalizaremos cuando probemos la yerba de momento colores rojizos y azulados, huele como a gas junto un transfondo dulce...una pasada merece la pena probarla!⛽🔥

Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de floración de estas Gomu Gomu Mango feminizadas de HighBreed. Vamos al lío ,se colocaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de Floración puse 12 horas de luz, el foco está al 80% de potencia. De momento va creciendo, tiene buen color y va progresando. Comentar que superaron el estrés hídrico porque subí par de grados por la noche y va volvió a comer normal . Gracias a Agrobeta por el kit para la temporada, unos jefes, siempre apoyando 💪. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

JAW BREAKER / ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS WEEK #23 OVERALL WEEK #3 FLOWER This week she's done stretching and she's stressing to focus her energy on producing flower. I've trimmed the bottom of the plant to focus energy where it's needed more. Stay Growing my Friends!! Thank you 😊 for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! BUDTRAINER.COM code "Deeproots" gets you 10% off you purchase! JAW BREAKER / ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS

Thanks Pyramid Seeds for your good genetics. Not my first experience with PS, like them so much. I was happy to grow this baby. It my first experience with coco. No pH or ppm meters, nothing just my eyes and feeling whole process. Thanks to ru brend Plantators for good feedings and stims for awesome price. You always can ask me about everything, I'm always in connection.

Time Is Winding Down On The Girls Scout Cookies In The 3 Gal Pot It’s Starting To Show A Nice Purple Color On The Buds. All The Girls Are Highly Scented And Frosty. The Lemon OG Looks Like It’s Going To Be The Frostiest Of Them All. . .The Purple Power Is Still Drying But It Shrink Up Pretty Bad I’ll have An Update For You Next Grow. Height Chart: Girls Scout Cookies: 31 inches (3gal) Stardawg: 35 inches Girls Scout Cookies: 40 1/4 inches (5gal) Gorilla Glue: 33 1/4 Lemon OG: 42 inches

Shes killin it. Nugs are starting to Fill in nice. More and more trichomes growing Slowly getting more and more dense. Thinking about giving this last week of the nute schedule for biobizz then im gonna give her the water treatment until shes ready Super happy with this girl!! Finally think i got the weeks to sync. this video is the start of week 8 flower. getting some purple hues on her Had to give the branches some support buds are gettin fatter and fatter each day Super excited

6cm vertical growth this week but she threw out some nice side growth. Apologies for the timelapse, it starts halfway through the week and finish/start are in the middle of the week 😳

The four Bubblicious Autos have maxed the tent at 1.14 meters high this week, buds are slowly developing, I have taken out the Biogrow and concentrated on the Bloom and Top Max + added some CalMag. Surprisingly the late starter, the smallest runt at the start of the grow in a narrower 10ltr pot is taller than the ones in the larger wider 16ltr pots . Keeping the feed lite on these sensitive autos, adding 4ml of each flowering nutrient into an 8ltr filled bucket, 2ltrs for each plant every 3 days seems to be adequate. I dont want to over feed or over water, this is the right balance so far.

Great weather this week. We did get a rain in the night of day 7 last week and morning day 1 this week. The girls weathered it well. Everything finished this week. The plants had their swells and the buds really filled out.