Day 28 She looks good but not perfect, wait for the next weeks ,also she is in preflower

I will create other diaries for the other strains :) the light is a 100 watt CXB3590 from Cf Growlights.

It’s bern roughly two months these guys have been growing! Lst’d Both but untied the gg because I wasn’t sure she was benefiting from it so I’m going to do it over. These ladies (I hope) will start their flower journey next week when I revive my new flower tent 😎..stay tuned for some epic buds..I hope!!

Day 79, 28th of November 2020: Here we go! Nice little plant! Nothing bad to say great smell also. Nothing much to even report all good I am happy great genetics. Fertilization is still the same every second day with the rationand mixture above stated. The lamp is on 11.15 min and off 12.45 min. Last week was 15 min longer light cycle.... So every week 15 min shorter light cycle until the 5th week. So far -45 min. It switches on at 6 am and off at 17.15 pm.

Heatwave Tested, Veggie Blessed ☀️🌱 Rolling into Week 3 of veg, and this little mystery girl is looking absolutely beautiful. Compact, vibrant, and showing all the right signs of healthy growth. 💚🌿 This week brought the heat—literally. We hit over 40°C in direct sun, and although she definitely felt it, she powered through like a champ. No major signs of stress, just a little sun-kissed and stronger for it. 💪🔥 I gave her a solid dose of effective microorganisms a couple days before feeding with BioBizz Grow, and she’s been loving it. The green is deep and rich, and her structure is nice and tight. She’s holding up strong, bouncing back from the heat, and I’m super excited to see her take off in the coming week. Something tells me she’s got big plans… 🚀🌼

This week starts with smelly Blue Cheese Automatic. It’s growing great. Week 9 The Fruit spirit is getting bushier and looks healthy. Week 10 3G is growing slowly but surely. Looks great! Week 6th

Cruising. Kept the nutrients the same as last week as the plants are going a bit slower than advertised by crop king and Sonoma seeds. Looking like flowering will take ~10 weeks when all said and done. Minor amount of defoliation done. Will be the last time to make sure I don’t stunt these autos. And ONLY defoliating. No pruning as I’m too afraid it will stunt the plants. Lots of buds forming now. Plants looking great. Noticed that the sun shines through my windows for several hours and directly onto the plants so I have started opening up the tent everyday and letting the sun shine on them. Helping to ripen the lower buds and have them be less larfy when all said and done. This does cause the plants to drink water like no other so have had to up the volume on fertigations. I’ve been using a LUX meter to check and make sure top colas aren’t getting too much light. The thing works great! Well worth the purchase. My mothers on the other side of the tent are big so need less light and as a result I have been able to move two of their lights in close to the flowering autos. The additional light is definitely helping bulk up the plant. Currently over the two plants there is (as listed) an HLG 135w Rspec, an HLG 100 V2 3000k, an HLG 65 V2 4000k and a Mars Hydro TS600. Tons of light! I’m in isolation as 2 of my housemates got COVID. As a result, I have a LOT of time to spend babying these plants and it is paying off. See you next week!

Week 7 Day 47 Ladys bounced all back and enjoying the light now. Also the first fadeing started at Orange Sherbet and Purple Punch, and alle other Ladys but just the leafes at the bottom. That's a good sign for me cause the soil was a bit to hot but that was not a big problem. They should get me some got dense buds again 🤤. Lemon Kix smelling amazing fruity followed by Orange Sherbet with a nice Cream Hint again. 3 more Weeks and the first lady's should be rdy for harvest 😁 Updates coming

Early flowering has started

The seed germination is going very well; I used water with a pH of 6.0. Big Bazooka 💥 Feminized seeds Genetics: mostly Indica Big Bud x Jack Herer Flowering time: 55 days THC: 29%

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

~ FastBuds PAPAYA SHERBET Photoperiod~ Well here we go on another journey together through 'Canna-land' and this one's kinda special... forget that, it's VERY special because this is FastBuds newest surprise for the community, a FEMINIZED PHOTOPERIOD STRAIN!🤯 I was fortunate enough to score these seeds, of which only 1000 were available and can't wait to see what this strain can do! This Papaya Sherbet, according to FastBuds, is a hybrid with a 9-10 weeks flowering period. For a more detailed and accurate description of this strain the following from FastBuds says it best: "Combining the massive stature of Papaya (Oni Selection) with the strength and resilience of one of our best keeper cuts (Sunset Sherbet), this strain develops into a big, expansive bush adorned with numerous bud sites that later transform into a generous harvest of medium-sized buds. Papaya Sherbet flowers deliver a signature flavor of premium cannabis with subtle citrus undertones that emerge upon inhaling. During growth, her aroma makes for a sweet yet pleasantly bitter fragrance, giving you an idea of what the smoke will taste like. Notably stress-resistant, Papaya Sherbet is a great choice for growers working in challenging environments. She is very forgiving and rebounds quickly from any adversity, allowing growers the freedom to experiment with confidence that she will take everything like a champion she is. This strain embodies resilience, flavor, and abundant yields in every grow cycle." Sounds like an epic strain and I personally cannot wait for this lady to strut her stuff!😍 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Papaya Sherbet photoperiod indoors as our weather is still a bit too chilly to put a newly sprouted seedling outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 40's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures are in the mid 50's℉, which shouldn't be long. After which, she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes from BioTabs and slow release dry amendments from Gaia Green. Once she's established herself outside she'll be given periodic top dressings of Gaia Green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 along with worm castings and Compost Tea's. Her grow area is approx. 5'x5' and I have posts and a trellis net set up already for when she gets bigger to aid in training her. Let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 6/16- Week Six is here and the Papaya Sherbet from FastBuds is beginning to finally take off! Our weather is beautiful now with daytime high temp's in the 80's F without a lot of rain so I am watering her daily at sundown with approximately 5-7g of well water. 6/18- I gave the Papaya Sherbet photoperiod a good watering today at sundown via the garden hose with straight well water. 6/20- I watered today and also did a little canopy maintenance, removing some leaves down low, along with some small shoots that would only sap energy better used elsewhere on the plant in the future. 6/22- Six weeks from seed and I have a sneaking suspicion that the FastBuds PApaya Sherbet photoperiod is getting ready to take off in a big way! I could be wrong, but we'll have to wait and see! Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

12/12💪🤫60 days of fun💥

12/13 - Day 71 - Watered with Recharge and Molasses. The girls have started to show signs of light burn. I'll find something shorter to put the smaller two plants on. The big girl is going to have to keep burning until I chop the other two down. Once she's alone in the tent I'll be able to pull the branches down and out in order to create more space between the tops and the light. 12/18 - Day 76 - Got a bigger tent so the ladies could stretch their legs. I fed a slightly stronger dose of nutrients yesterday and its pretty evident it was too much for the plants because slight nutrient burn symptoms have returned. Fan leaf discoloration and a few tips clawing. Will back off for the next few waterings and watch them closely. Flowers are all developing nicely.

Week start very good. I already transfer Brain destroyer in to the big pot 💪 I will transfer Soul Drain tomorrow 💪💚 27.03 I make topping)

...and here I am, at the end of this fantastic journey, with so much knowledge I have got in this process, including regarding myself! Fantastic!! I harvested one week early because I got some issues with mold! Thank you people for helping me when I got into some trouble hahaha Love you all! :-) Peace and freedom!

Letzte Woche viel um die Ohren gehabt, und die Ladys wurden leider vernachlässigt machen sich aber ganz oke Jetzt nochmal ein wenig lollipoppen und sonst arbeitet die Zeit für mich

Anche stavolta provo questa Tecnica, quello d'infilzare alla Base del tronco con degli stuzzicadenti. Prima incido con un coltellino la base del tronco da dividere le due parti, poi successivamente infilo degli stuzzicadenti, (alcuni Growers, che hanno un bel tronco largo, ho visto che ci infilano un bastoncino-le bacchette cinesi) da mantenere separati le due parti. Questo dovrebbe comportare un aumento di resina sui calici e anche di volume. Boh speriamo.... Domani 21/06/2021 Farò un altra pulizia delle Radici(Acqua Flushing) da ridurre drasticamente l'EC(da ricordarsi che l'ultimo risciacquo era circa 2000 EC- pH circa 6)

I have been using LST in the form of a fan on medium speed to try and strengthen the main stalk of the plant as well as planter rotation to strengthen the main stalk for tie down LST. So far I've been impressed with the rate of growth and the overall experiment. For what it's worth, the growth wth is very very similar to a hydroponics growth. I'm sure as the experiment continues I'll notice some big differences. It does appear to have either a minor potassium deficiency or a little too much nitrogen. Will monitor and update as needed. The above signs may have been trying to indicate the main stalk was weakening from too much weight from vertical grow rate. This would ultimately lead to a fractured stalk. Is this what happened or is it a fungus or disease problem? Plant C sprouted within 48hrs and will be 6 days behind Plant A. End goal of harvest is still 360g from the two plants combined. Both plants are looking very happy regardless of the toxicity or deficiency. Strong strain nonetheless.