Shogun is taking the lead, in terms of size AND smell!!! Seriously she has not even started preflower, no white hairs and YET her aroma is amazing!!! Seriously I can't WAIT to smoke these buds. Shogun is the Ninja warrior, her genetics are Gorilla Glue #4 & Amesia Haze from RQS. The 2nd plang in the lead is Itty Bitty who's tripled in size the last week. All my girls seem to like the environment I've made for them & are loving Life. 😎

Hello everyone😎 Week 6 of flower for the LCC🍋🍒🍪 All the top buds harvested✂️ I had a lot of fun growing this strain🤩 The smell is absolutely out of this world…the colors…💜 I have 3 different pheno,all purple,some smells more citrus and the others more ripe cherries! One more week for the lower buds and finito I already feel nostalgic😜 *what’s coming out of the yuzu is essentials oil,every year I make Yuzucello feel free to ask me the recipe🍸🍋

Day 44 (Jan 10 - Flower Day 10) More of a maintenance day. The focus was keeping the canopy flat and even while the plant continues to push. This is where the tent starts feeling smaller every day. Day 45 (Jan 11 - Flower Day 11) At 02:30 I measured EC 1.466 (1466 µS/cm). At noon, after a top-off (this time with fertilizer included), I landed at EC 1.480 and pH 6.19. Day 46 (Jan 12 - Flower Day 12) At 12:15 I measured EC 1.512. After topping off I ended up at pH 5.75 and EC 1.462. Later I decided to push the reservoir strength up, briefly saw a higher number, then did the right thing: I waited for proper mixing. After 15 minutes of circulation, the stable reading was EC 1.612 with pH 5.88. Canopy-wise she’s starting to look like a literal square under the trellis - which is both hilarious and satisfying. Day 47 (Jan 13 - Flower Day 13) At 00:30 I measured EC 1.618 and pH 6.30. I topped off ~1.5 L of pH’d water and rechecked after circulation: EC ~1.620 and pH ~6.06. After that I adjusted pH down to 5.69. Day 48 (Jan 14 - Flower Day 14) At 00:30 (before top-off): EC 1.622 and pH 6.16. Water level drop was about 2 L out of roughly 9 L, so definitely a big drink. I decided to top off with nutrients this time. After the top-off and ~15 minutes of circulation, the reservoir landed at pH 5.74 and EC 1.720. Canopy / space notes (Week summary) The canopy is getting extremely even and wide — genuinely “square” under the trellis. I’ve been leaf tucking and I also weaved two tops sideways under the net to keep the canopy flat. Height management is now a real factor: the plant is around 43 cm tall even while being woven into the trellis. The good news is I can now rig the light up to about 90 cm above the bucket, which gives much more breathing room than I originally thought. Week takeaway The plant is clearly in a strong stretch phase (big daily growth, big water consumption). The reservoir has been stable when I’m careful with mixing time, and the trellis work is paying off — the canopy is filling the tent efficiently and staying controllable.

So I have added new strains. Purple Berry Kush, Diesel Fire OG, and Sour Fire Kush. The Sour Fire Kush is Bubba Kush × (Sour Diesel × Fire OG) This should be good. I heard it leans to the Bubba.we will see. Purple Berry Kush is up and we have 2 they are cute. Strawberry Lemonade is doing good. Slurricane is doing a color change, starting to look nice and frosty, at 4 1/2 weeks when the pic were taken. Ok and for the news of the week. FOG or Fire OG is a female. So this is really good news for the 4 sided girl. She split into 2 tops, and of course 1 is dominate. So idk I might have to tie them apart somehow. Because there will be no topping her. And as far as I know she is pure Fire OG nothing else. On the video the purple monster is Gorilla Zkittles go check her out. She is on the chopping block. It rained wasn't a good day I will check the tricome's tomorrow on her. So all and all shit is going to happen!!! 🤩 if I like it or not. And amazingly there is still more to come..... coming soon: Citrus Farmer, Blue Nana, Tahoe Kush, Tangeamatic, those are just some of the next to come and there is still more.... 👊😎

Most of the pistils are brown and fewer is coming out. This is the last week that I will feed them and will flush with pH water tomorrow. They have gained quite some size during this week and couldn’t imagine chopping them down last week. Tangerine Dream got bleached a little bit, height issue. There is also a tiny bit of purple on the bleached area. Overall trichomes on the bud gland are starting to become cloudy with some amber.

Sono contento la colto va bene qualche pianta inizia mostrare il sesso tra poco inizia la pre fioritura stanno allungando molto velocemente

Room Info • Flower room: 2.4m x 2.4m x 2m • Lights: 4 x Gavita 750w (with Gavita master controller) • Irrigation: IWS Flood & Drain Pro (with custom 25L pots) • Lung Room: Intake air is coming from my lung room. Inside that is all the controllers, intake fan, 350L reservoir tank, a large air conditioner and a 3kw heater • Extras: 2 x 6" RVK Fans with DiffuseAir attachments; Custom MistMaker Humidifier -------------------------------------- Week 1 of flower • Midweek I found fungus gnats hanging around the pots. I pored 2 liters of 0.6% hydrogen peroxide into the top of each plant. Then 2 days later watered in some beneficial nematodes (Steinernema spp.) and topped the pots with a decent layer of GnatNix. Bye bye gnats. • I noticed the EC value drop in the nutrient reservoir. Next week will need to be slightly higher. pH stayed pretty stable. • At the end of flower week 1, I did an under trim of any bud sites that would never make the surface. I do this to stop any fluffy buds from developing underneath. I want big dense buds on top only.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Skywalker Haze has started to take up residence in the box — and she does it with style. After a promising start, this first week of growth is already showing the first signs of character: the true leaves are opening decisively, and the green is full and bright, just as it should be. The Light Mix substrate, enriched with Dynamyco and Extreme Garden Root, continues to do its job behind the scenes: stimulate, strengthen, build. The roots are expanding well, and the plant already seems to want to accelerate. Light but targeted watering with distilled water and Cellmax Rootbooster to avoid stress and accompany her in this delicate settling phase. The microclimate is stable, everything is under control. No forcing, just patience and trust in the process. The foundations are being laid. The green galaxy is expanding 🚀

Hey everyone, just harvested at day 60 of flower and I’m really happy with how things turned out. Uploaded some harvest shots along with exact day tags. The colors and overall development finished nicely! After the chop, I went through a full clean-up with isopropyl alcohol. The root aphid situation should be fully under Control now. I have got some clones ready in a separate space, and I’ll be restarting soon. I will give an update on harvest results in the next few weeks, but for now - the terps dont lie! Very nice fruity and floral smell with a little candygas in it too. Happy growing ✌️

The smell is so great wish I’d be getting more nuggets off of this girl but at least it is dense will continue to keep updating as the week goes on

Beautiful Pheno. Stacked with trichs! Definitely huge appeal! With a slight sour worm/super c terp profile.

They were good phenos. Very similar and nice buds. Super dense and dripping in resin. Lovely aromatic smell have been developed and was a great addition to my VERY LARGE crop this time. Both phenos grew great. P1 was just under 10 weeks. Pheno 2 was just touching into wk 7. Amazing smells from both. Dense buds. Big yields. Really happy to have ran this strain. Very fruity, exceptional quality & taste. Averaged about 70-90 grams for Pheno1 & Pheno 2. (Both plants cured 2 + months now. Really happy with my MSNL strains I ran this crop. Will be looking to add more in a few weeks for round 2 of my planned amount. Thanks to my sponsors from MSNL & XPERT NUTRIENTS. AMAZING DUO. Appreciate all who stop by. I thank you and look forward to seen your diaries. Either way thanks for dropping by. DISCOUNT CODE FOR XPERT NUTRIENTS 20% OFF CODE:

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the c99s got ten days of plain water then came the chop at week 10 and 3 days with a fairly decent 30% amber all things considered !

Take out some little buds. Little LST

It survived the holiday! Roots and plant looking healthy 👍 I Topped it as soon as I came back and plan to start LST when the branches start to stretch.

Se secaron rápido. Los cocos son pegajosos y tienen aroma muy fuerte. En humedo me dio 150g en total. Tengo que esperar que se sequen para ya saber el resultado final.

Now comes the fun part. As some friends of the fantastic Growdiaries community pointed out to us, we begin to see that the waiting time is about to be repaid, the peaks are taking on their final shape and I believe that shortly, after a good final blowjob of various boosters, we will leave for a flush of at least two weeks