Week 3 (27-11 to 3-12) What's good everyone? We started this week off with removing the 2 bottom shoots. The next day Santa came early 😁 Got 2 new clip fans and the AC5 Power strip from Spider Farmer. The power strip has 5 outlets you can control in the app, they can be turned on based on a time cycle, humidity or temps. It comes with a sensor that monitors light, temperature, and humidity. And a soil sensor that monitors soil moisture (VWC), temperature, and electrical conductivity (EC). It also has a light adapter to connect 2 lights, that can be controlled in the app aswell. The app shows the current VPD, i try to keep this around 1.0 In the middle of the week we topped her aswell. The next day we increased the light intensity from 30% to 35%. LUX: 13.000/13.500 to LUX: 15.000/15.500 This week's growing conditions were 17.9°C to 22.4°C with a humidity of 55.5% to 67.6% and watered 2 times with 0.5L. See you next week!

This week I start my varieties for new mothers for 2022; coming straight from the Netherlands from Neerland seeds Bank

Day 74 of flower, all the colas are beginning to topple over due to how dense n chunky they are.the sample nug takin at 9 weeks was excellent super gassy skunky LOUD! Pretty sure im gonna take them within the next few days.

La planta crece rapido, ya se realizo el primer corte apical el proximo paso a va a ser realizar un entrenamiento por LST para empezar a desarrollar hacia los costados para comenzar a desarrollar la superficie del Scrog. Ademas se agrego un ventilador para fomentar el desarrollo del tallo y la fortaleza de ramificaciones. Por otro lado ya se observa que las raices llegaron a la base de la maceta, por ahora va creciendo muy bien esta genetica.

This week the photoperiods really settled into their training rhythm. Early in the week I introduced silica into their watering for added stem strength. Midweek (Sept 4) I topped the plants above the 4th/5th node, leaving clean spacing to avoid splitting, and also removed the lower nodes to simplify their structure for the 32×32 tent. By the end of the week, each plant was forming four healthy mains that should train out evenly. Early in the week I also cleaned up the soil surface by pulling out some weeds that had sprouted in the cover crop mix. I originally mistook them for thyme, but once they developed it was clear they weren’t. Removing them freed up space and ensured the true cover crop and main plants had full access to water and nutrients. The plants showed no stress from topping or pruning — leaves stayed a strong, even green, and they were “praying” toward the light after each adjustment. I also uppotted them into their next pots this week. Roots had begun filling their containers, and the timing lined up well with topping. Each transplant went smoothly, and the plants showed no signs of shock afterward. On the feeding side, I watered with silica and began brewing a compost tea (worm castings, kelp, a touch of fish emulsion) for a 18–24 hr cycle to use in the next watering. Watering cadence was every 2–3 days, depending on dryback. Overall, week 5 was about building structure and resilience. The plants bounced back quickly from topping, are holding great color, and are on track to fill out the tent evenly as training continues.

On its full flush now, buds are coated in THC and the Aromas are beautiful, petty it was as planned 'seed to smoke in 60 days'. Run off was 108ppm on Saturday when introducing straight RO water. Will be chopping in the next 72 hours. . Chopped the girl down amd I must say, I'm impressed with her yield 💪 got shit loads of pocorns and lower bids which I'll be turning to hash.

Hey agaaain! Let me start this week by saying wooooow, this was a crazy week and not because I made a mistake but rather because I had to do a lot of things to avoid unnecessary stress. Now allow me to elaborate why I tried to avoid unnecessary stress: I had to move out because the landlord where I lived sold the house (this is the main reason why I couldn't update the journals earlier 😛) and gladly I had friends who already owned an empty grow tent (4x4, I loved the size! 😍) and they allowed me to use it and bring my plants and my lights there for some days. I knew this whole experience would be stressful for my babies, but I had to do it anyway (and I'm glad I wasn't in the middle of flowering 😨). The first visit: Moving them to my friend's house was a non-issue! 👌 I fed the plants at their place (with some extra water and slightly more fertilizers) and everything was great! 😊 The second visit: After two days I visited my babies and the humidity was close to the 85%. That scared me but they also grew a lot during those days which I think was... cool? I installed a new extractor in the tent and used it to get more fresh air inside and obviously that fixed all the humidity issues I had! The plants looked great! 😍 The last visit: After some days I went to their house again and yiiiikes! Here is when the issues began! I couldn't visit earlier (thanks to the move) and the plants were super thirsty! Specially Boomer. I took them to my new house and when they were inside their tent I fed them some pHed water and then I allowed the plants to rest for some extra hours! 😱 Originally I wanted to go into flower after this week but clearly I couldn't start it immediately since the plants were clearly stressed! So I allowed them to rest for a little more! Anyway, the last photos show how the plants look after I allowed them to rest for some extra hours and after feeding them some water. Boomer will still need some more extra time to heal! Thanks everyone for reading! More updates soon! 👊

Final week! I am starting the flush process at week 8 so going to do quarter nuts for 2days then half then 1/3 and then finish with 2-3 days water Tricombs where about 75% milk rest where clear maybe a few random turning amber She really must have put on weigh this last week because she is sagging hard now!

6 semana de floracion pleno engorde 🥦 •1g de enhancer x litro de agua aplicación en el riegos

Moinsen, Tag 7: Ich hab schon wieder Thripse im hinteren Blähton gehabt, aber Plant Diddy hat genug Neemöl am Start. 💦 Ansonsten sieht alles gut und gleichmäßig aus. Tag 10: Die Thripse habe ich in den Griff bekommen denke ich, allerdings hat die letzte Dusche dann ein paar Spuren hinterlassen. Die Blätter der ersten Nodie sehen etwas trocken und angebrannt aus. Trotzdem sind sie ordentlich gewachsen und man kann jetzt schon sehen, dass die Black Dog etwas langsamer ist, als die anderen beiden. Das führe ich darauf zurück, dass sie eine andere Auto in der Genetik hat, als die anderen beiden. Sie hat die Super Auto drin und die anderen beiden haben die XL Auto drin. Im Moment scheint das Aer-DWC die Nase minimal vorne zu haben, was sich aber noch ändern kann und vermutlich auch wird. Endlich mal die in der Mitte, die groß werden will, hoffentlich 😅 Die ersten Ein-Finger-Blätter sind ziemlich groß und sie versuchen sogar noch Finger abzuspalten. Wirkt zuerst ein wenig Ducksfoot mäßig, aber das kenne ich schon aus vorherigen Runs. Ich bin jedenfalls hoch erfreut, dass sie ohne Zusätze so gut wachsen. Ich nutze dieses Mal kein Rhizotonic und auch keinen Boost. Es bleibt bei Vega/Flores A+B, Calmag Agent, PK13/14 und Cannazym 1/2 Dosis. Das Licht läuft im 24/0 Zyklus bei ca. 350 µmol/s/m², also einem DLI von ca. 30 mol/d/m². Dadurch habe ich keine Temperatur Diff. mehr, da es ja keine Nacht in dem Sinne mehr gibt und ich kann dadurch die Lichtintensität etwas vermindern. Ich erhoffe mir dadurch weniger Lichtstress, trotz hohem DLI und absolut gleichmäßige Umgebungsbedingungen, die sich überhaupt nicht ändern. Dadurch kann ich mich genauer an die Leistungsgrenzen rantasten, da die normalerweise vorhandene Dynamik in der Optik von Tag zu Nacht so statisch bleibt, anstatt dass die Blätter im Zyklus "rudern". Mal schauen, wie dieser Test so verläuft, aber bisher auf jeden Fall schon einmal deutlich besser, als ich es erwartet habe. Aber man soll ja den Tag nicht vor dem Abend loben....😅 Tag 12: Heute habe ich ein Video gemacht und danach leider erst festgestellt, dass die Black Orchid Auto erstmal so motiviert ist, dass sie sogar an den Keimblättern noch extra Finger bekommt. Sieht zumindest so aus. Ansonsten geht es ihnen gut, sie wachsen extrem schnell und der Run wird vermutlich wieder awesome, ich hab da so ein Gefühl 💪👽👍

Going well, have trained her horizontally! Now she has the desired shape & I will let her grow upwards to create some nice Cola's.

Great stuff

Alaskan Purple auto is doing okay. She broke her top when she grew against my lst from last update. She is under a Medic Grow Mini Sun-2. Beside the top breaking everything else is looking okay. Thank you Medic Grow, and Seedsman. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

New week, same deal... She's growing and things are looking good. Roots are now starting to make it to the water so she's going to be upgrading to a little stronger brew on the next rez change.

Semana del 1 al 7 de marzo. Lo apunto aquí porque sino luego no sé ni en que semana vamos jaja 😂 Las primeras fotos y vídeo son del inicio de la semana. Hemos retrasado el cambio de una semana a otra, ya que por el lavado de raíces no las pudimos alimentar antes. Luego cambiaremos el PH a 5,8-9 y el EC también lo aumentaremos. Edito: al final no lo hemos aumentado porque respondían bien y estaban recuperándose. Respecto a la semana anterior, se ven mucho mejor después del lavado de raíces. Algunas plantas están muy bajitas, así que la luz para las más bajas está a 65 cm. Mañana o pasado aplicaré jabón potásico con aceite de neem a modo de prevención. La vez pasada, que era mi primera vez plantando, llegaron trips y al final resultó todo bien, pero si no llegan los bichos, mejor todavía

🍪🥜🍬⛽️

day22 video. now adding more pk booster than earlier weeks, should be done week 7-8 we will see day23 I start adding more pk, still will 4x more pk now. Some nice pics today, videos of each, frost on fan leafs, no issues other than pros: bridal frost on fan leafs+sugar, cons 6ft tall. I think I should have pumped more pk earlier into flower/pre Its cool. Adding 2tbsp soluble pk into 5gal vs quarter tbsp in beginning 22 days ago. I am feeding soluble pk, +3 pk soil conditioners and carbs every day. There is no water day. day 25 stacking up. been spraying old cs I made 3ish years ago to test, works on unrooted so I may potential cross. Bridal starting to smell like a mix between fresh watermelon, and lemon+lime or a citrus aroma.

My first experience with Sweet Seeds was with some Gorilla Girl photo that I took a chance on. My only comment on one of the pheno's I received is WOW!!!!! So it is no real surprise to me that I was so impressed with the resilience of this strain and the buds she grew. She ran 84 days and was worth the wait......almost jumped the gun about 5 or 6 days early. She was strong all the way through and at first was the one I threw in and we will just see what happens.....she was a free seed. In the end she received a lot of my staring and salivating😄😄💪👍🙏 Update April 2020............ The buds have firming up and the curing continues. The citrus has come through much stronger after 4 weeks cure. She was hung on March 1st and dried for 7 days, into jars on March 8th. The piney citrus is very prominent now. She comes on quick for a buzz and is fairly balanced in my opionion and not overly energetic but not lethargic either.A nice balanced all day smoke for myself. Great flavours coming through now......I am a fan of piney smoke😃👍 So the buds have ended up nice and firm, slows down the grinder😁, powerful and lasts over an hour plus I have a high tolerance, nice eye appeal and pungent smell........Love it Sweet Seeds!!!!!! You have done awesome with this Autoflower..........she is a keeper.........but there is the issue with auto flowers👌😃 Sweet Seeds rocked it........if you are looking for a great yielding, resilient, dense bud plant she is worth your consideration! Sweet smokes Apolo!!

I love this pheno compared to the other hard diesel pheno #2 this one has a beautiful structure, and the buds are very dense hard and sticky as hell, the aroma it's really strong and stinky, I would definitely run her again, gea seeds always provides high quality strains and seeds to the growers! Very happy about this strain. Please stay tuned until the end to see the final result of this project! 💛❤️💚👨‍🌾✌️

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.