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Scrog Netz in das Zelt gehängt damit mehr Licht an die unteren buds kommt. Organische pflanzen Neigen sich dem Ende zu. Die mineralische Auto euforia braucht noch aber bildet mittlerweile die buds. Aktuell 8 l/Tag mit 2g/l Hackaphos rot gegossen. Zusätzlich noch gut unten rum entlaubt da viel vertrocknet war und eh kein Licht hin kam.
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@Naked_98
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Прошла 6я неделя вегетации, пора переводить девочку на цветение. За все время вегетации пару раз возникали проблемные моменты с питанием, но все было достаточно быстро нейтрализовано, поэтому эта "вдова" к началу цветения выглядит превосходно!!!
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📆 Semana 12 Cierre del ciclo con cogollos duros, compactos y muy resinosos, mostrando el fade completo. Tricomas lechosos con presencia de ámbar, en punto óptimo de corte. Aroma intenso y totalmente desarrollado. Momento de cosecha. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!
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This was the last week of flowering and therefore I stopped giving any nutrients for a good FLUSH. This is very important in order to avoid a harsh smoke later when the plants are dried, because any nutrients left in the plant will burn your throat and the weed will hurt while you smoke it. Both Barbarian (=AK-47 x Barbara Bud) plants have developed well and carry hefty top buds on each side branch and also the main cola. The lower regions also carry buds, but those are a little more fluffy and not so big and dense as the top buds. Every bud is COVERED IN TRICHOMES and the plants glisten in the light, they are FROSTY AS HELL! The plants have a STRONG AROMA now, which is sweet and peachy with hints of sandalwood. They smell ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS and I cant wait to try the dried end-product. All in all I can only recommend this strain, its not the biggest yielder, but definitely delivers connoisseur grade weed. Hats off to Mat from House of the Great Gardener in Canada, he has made another GREAT cross and I hope he will release this variety soon! 👍😍😎
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@ChiTaN
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The girls are developing properly, frosting is beginning to be clearly visible.Also the smell has become clear and very intense.White Widow X Big Bud is the most noticeable.From today, the girls are switching to a different spectrum of light, UV light will be added.
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@PETEROG
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Hey everyone at week 4 know and wow have these girls grown early this week I applied some LST and all took really well to say it was my first time trying this
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@Thedibber
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02/11/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph6.8 04/11/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph6.8. Few weeks left now and shes smelling dank 07/11/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph 6.9 💪
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I typically use the nutes at 1/2 tsp per gal but I have cut back on nitrogen since transitioning to flowering😎
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@RBGreenry
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Flush finished, hit with high dosage Pk, onto half nutrients, isn nutrients
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Solid 10 inches of growth this week. Ladies were top dressed with more soil on Thursday night. Also game them a cal-mag boost with some Earth Pods back on Monday. The larger ladies are staying out in the garden, but the more finicky Critical Mass and Charlotte's Angel's are in the small greenhouse.
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2nd time growing this strain. Was the best of the bunch last harvest under a cheap 300W LED drawing ~100W from the wall yet still gave me over 4oz Hoping under this brand new Spider Farmer SF-4000 I'll get much more. Just fed plain water in week 1.
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Quinta Semana de floración del scrog de una variedad indica con un olor muy intenso con flores muy resinosas y compactas / Fifth Week of flowering of the scrog of a variety indicates with a very intense smell with very resinous and compact flowers
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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Resultado muy bueno, fue con la tabla completa de Advanced Nutrient y funcionó la maravilla, volveré a repetir las cepas, sacaron tonalidades preciosas.
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@Prilyfe13
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December 27, 2023 Day 113 Strawberry Gorilla: Day 3 Curing I just got my grove bags, so there won't be any burping. 2 weeks of curing time should do it. Maybe 3 Gorilla Cookies: This lady is nearly done now. I think I started flushing a little late. As in today. The top half of the plant is just about ready for harvest while the lower half still has white pistils. Lots of trichomes, but still not ready yet. So I removed the wick system and will be top watering Flawless Finish as needed. She my be harvest ready in the next few days. Maybe tomorrow? I don't know. I have the lights coming in tomorrow, so those should help speed the maturing process along quickly. Anyway, I'll be harvesting very soon. I think I'll remove some fan leaves before harvest. Just to make trimming gonna little faster and to give more air flow while drying. It's raining and gross today. Unfortunately, that means the RH in the tent is too high. So I need to keep an eye today. Open the tent up every couple of hours to let any extra moisture out. Grow System Environment: Temp: 73.2° RH: 52.6% VPD: 1.30 kPa December 28, 2023 Strawberry Gorilla: Day 4 Curing The whole yield is in a quarter pound grove bag now. It's sealed so there's nothing to do but let it cure for the next 4 weeks. I can't wait. This stuff is fire! Gorilla Cookies: This lady definitely has a bunch of amber trichomes on the tops, but after further inspection, its more like a quarter of the plant is ready for harvest. Just the tops. So the supplemental lighting may help things move along. I'm not expecting anything of substance, but it will certainly mature faster and I'll be able to harvest sooner. She got about 1.5 liters of Flawless Finish top feed today. She'll be needing a new top feed every couple of days from now on. I only expect her to last another week. Maybe a little less, but still no fade on this lady. However, her leaves are popping off without any pressure. Just touch and some of them pop right off. Some of them won't even take a pulling or bending. So she's definitely not quite ready yet. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.1° RH: 55.5% VPD: 1.25 kPa It's rainy and humid out here, so the tent is suffering from it. It's not too bad, but it has been hovering over 56% and that's unacceptable. Even with the tent door wide open, it only goes down to around 52%. It shouldn't last more than a few more hours. We just need the temp to drop a bit and everything will level out. At least down to around 51% for now. We have a could front coming in soon, so that'll fix the issue. December 29, 2023 Strawberry Gorilla: Day 5 Curing Gorilla Cookies: She is just about ready. The top seems like it's definitely ready to go, but I want the lower part of the plant to mature up a bit. Hopefully the supplemental lighting will help move that along. She will need another flush tomorrow. I'll give her around 3 to 5 days. I won't be able to do a dark period with this one. The tent will already have a drying plant in it and they won't be able to fit in there at the same time. Unless they are both drying. On the other hand, I may be able to squeeze both in there. We shall see. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.1° RH: 52.7% VPD: 1.32 kPa December 30, 2023 Strawberry Gorilla: Day 6 Curing Gorilla Cookies: She isn't showing much, but I don't really expect her to with the new lights. She is too far along. I'm just hoping for a faster maturity rate. She definitely needs to be harvested within the next week. She got another flush today with the Flawless finish. I don't know how many flushes she has left before harvest, but I doubt it's much. Maybe 2 or 3? No signs of fading though. It's strange. This plant and the smaller on in the main tent haven't faded at all. While the big one in the main tent looks like she will have a wonderful fade. I wonder what I'm doing wrong with this one. Maybe the soil is just too rich for the short term flushing. Maybe she really needs a full 2 weeks of flush. We shall see. I will check trichomes tomorrow I think. I don't think I'll see much difference from 2 days ago. Not in the lower part of the plant that is. The tops are all ready to go. They could certainly use a tiny bit more time, but they are definitely ready to go now. Grow System Environment: Temp: 73.2° RH: 50.7% VPD: 1.34 kPa December 31, 2023 Strawberry Gorilla: Day 7 Curing Gorilla Cookies: She's taking a bit longer than expected, well, actually I originally expected about a week after another Gorilla Cookies from the main tent. I harvested it today. This lady looks like she may be harvest ready in the next 3 to 5 days. I'm hoping she will take a bit longer so I can clear out the dry tent for her. She got about a liter of Flawless Finish today. I'm not sure if she is still as thirsty as she once was. Honestly, I can't tell. She was using the wick system so efficiently, before, I couldn't say how much she was actually drinking at the time. Maybe a liter a day? So she may have not changed her drinking volume at all. Which also means she isn't ready for harvest. The lower part of the plant is still immature. However, the supplemental lighting seems to be helping to move things along. We shall see. Let's hope for some extra time. Ultimately 10ndays would be perfect. But I'm almost certain that won't be a thing. It's too far away compared to her maturity level, especially with the main tops. Those are all nearly ready to go as it is. They could be harvested anytime. But I can still hold off anyway for more amber trichomes. Her leaves are loaded with them, but I don't see a bunch on the buds yet. I'd like to see 20% amber with this plant and preferably no clear. Grow System Environment: Temp: 72.6° RH: 47.8% VPD: 1.40 kPa January 1, 2024 Happy New Year! Strawberry Gorilla: Day 8 Curing Gorilla Cookies: I believe the lights are doing the job now. The lower part of the canopy is starting to harden off, pistils are turning orange and trichomes are starting to turn cloudy. At least from what I can see. She got another top watering today with about a liter of Flawless Finish. It looks like she is still drinking at the same rate as before. I wonder if I started flushing a bit too early. It's quite possible. But maybe not. The top of the plant is ready to go as it has been for nearly a week. I'm going to check the trichomes in the next day or 2. I don't think it's absolutely necessary at the moment as I can tell the bottom of the plant is still very immature, but moving along nicely. I wonder if foxtails take less time to finish up than a solid bud. An interesting theory. However, the plant has been about a week behind anyway due to the few stressors she was under. Anyway, I think I can hold off harvesting for the week coming up. Update: I had to turn the main light intensity down from 40% to 30% for the large plant in the main diary. The PPFD is around 750 now. Apparently the light intensity should be dropped around this time anyway, so maybe I'm doing a good thing for this Gorilla Cookies. I'm leaving the supplemental lighting alone for now. I believe it is doing something. Grow System Environment: Temp: 72.9° RH: 46.3% VPD: 1.45 kPa January 2, 2024 Strawberry Gorilla: Day 9 Curing Gorilla Cookies: Today was another top feed of Flawless Finish. She is cruising through water at a decent rate. I'm pretty sure I was too early with her flushing. The supplemental lighting seems to have perked her right up. The lower part of the plant is showing healthy deep green growth instead of the light green from before. The little budlets are swelling up as well. They aren't tight, dense or anything like that. There are clusters of them all over the lower branches. No real formed buds. But will be great with the trim. At least from what I won't be able to salvage as a bud. Even a loose bud is better than a trim bud. I've also decided to wait to harvest this lady for when the dry tent is cleared out of another Gorilla Cookies that's in there. It should have around 8 days left. Frankly, I'm not worried about it. It'll be a good experiment to see how this strain does with a higher percentage of amber trichomes. Although, at this rate, I don't think 8 days is off the mark by much. I know a lot can happen in 8 days, but I don't think the lower part of the plant will have a problem with it. Lots of clear trichomes. Plenty of cloudy, but definitely too many clear. Grow System Environment: Temp: 72.9° RH: 45.2% VPD: 1.47 kPa
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📋 Die Strawberry Banana von Fastbuds ist jetzt in Woche 5 der Blüte, insgesamt schreiben wir Woche 10. Die Pflanze steht stabil im Futter und zeigt eine gesunde, sattgrüne Farbe. Die Blütenbildung schreitet gut voran, die typische Struktur ist bereits klar erkennbar. 💧 In diesem Zeitraum gab es 2 Bewässerungen. Dabei habe ich mit 16.5 ml S&R Organics 5in1 und 10 ml BioTabs Bio Pk 5-8 nachgeholfen, um den Phosphor- und Kaliumbedarf in dieser entscheidenden Phase abzudecken. Die Lichtperiode habe ich konstant bei 18 Stunden pro Tag belassen. 📸 Die Bilder zeigen ein sauberes Blattwerk ohne Anzeichen von Mängeln oder Stress. Die Blütenstände bilden bereits ordentlich Harz aus, auch wenn die Stigmen noch überwiegend hell und aktiv sind. Die Struktur wirkt kompakt und vital, das passt genau zum Zeitplan für eine gesunde Entwicklung. 🔍 Die Pflanze ist voll auf Kurs. Jetzt heißt es, die Blütenmasse weiter aufzubauen und das Harzprofil zu fördern. Ich behalte die Luftfeuchtigkeit im Blick, damit bei der zunehmenden Dichte der Buds am Ende nichts schimmelt. Nächste Woche geht es wie gewohnt weiter mit der Nährstoffversorgung.