Harvested Shiva Skunk, Zombie Kush and Sweet Love.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Update; February 14th, 2023. From the moment I flipped to flower, they’ve been exploding with growth! They are super healthy! They grow back and fill in so fast after defoliating, no matter how heavy I go. I’ve added the supplemental lighting (Viparspectra 600) this week to really get the most I can. Figuring out a way to mount it higher.

👉The calixs have gotten plump and not many fresh pistols are around, just the occasional on on each cola. Fox-tailing has been more pronounced and what looks like a see has appered at the tips of a couple of colas. I have not seen a hermie bit , but the plant is big and impossible to inspect very closely. I wont be able to get a better look at it until the gorilla is out of the tent and I can move the plant into the center and rotate it. The lowest leaves around the base have started yellowing between the veins. I'm sure I'm not finished with all the little issues this plant will show. The aroma is nice and sweet, hard to smell it over the intensely strong Gorilla glue, which I just finished harvesting. To touch the buds leaves a pine sol aroma that is typical. 👉I moved thru the 8 week mid bloom mix to the 9th week mid bloom mix on the General Hydroponics Drain to waste feed chart for the Flora series. I will move to the 10th week late bloom tomorrow. I have given two (I think...at least two) H2Only irrigations (always followed by full strength fertigations. I may move to the Ripen mix by the end of the week. I think I was expecting it to take a little longer but I may have been wrong. With the plant alone in the tent now I can rotate it again and get a better overal veiw of the plant. Many of the trichomes are already cloudy and this one may finish before the buds get very plump. But that's fine, they are super frosty and dense enough. The structure looks just what a sativa bud might look like, just needs to plump up a bit.

Best grow yet I’ve started my first grow here on growdiaries and thanks to the good buddies here I’ve been able to succeed in my adventures thank you everyone

This grow took me around 12 weeks to complete. I harvested at about 80 days and got some beautiful dense nugs. I have found growing autos in DWC allows to get amazing results. During this grow I started feeding bloom nutrients at a much earlier stage to try and make them available as soon as the plant can use them. I also found this didn’t effect my stretch much and allowed for a whole lot of bud sites. Take note that most micro nutrient lines contain a lot of nitrogen and when the autos start making bud sites you can cut the grow nutrients much earlier. I had pretty good results with micro and bloom during the early flower stage. I also found that by gradually removing certain growth and not adding too much stress, the strain reacts pretty well. If you do decide to do a heavier defoliation, rather do it after the plant has completed its stretch. This will help not shock and stunt growth during vegetative stage. I would personally recommend to try and scrog this strain of grown in dwc for even larger yields as I removed quite a lor of growth during my grow. I will definitely make use of this for my next grow. At the middle of the flowering stage I installed a dehumidifier and tried to keep it between 45-55% RH. My temperatures were consistently between 20-27 degrees as I ran a 24h light cycle. I also made use of a mycelium bag for some added Co2 which I found worked well. I am overly satisfied with the yield and density of these flower and would recommend Fastbuds genetics to anyone looking to grow their own. High quality and very high yielding plant.

Day 104. Last Tangies chop day. So , as you know three girls have dry results at the moment. Fatty tangie 69.65 Foxtail tangie 72.03 Slim Fat tangie 65.03 Upsidedown tangie still in dry tent, but one hanger was left with most of leaves for dry trim and other two made 29+ and 35+ , so its AMAZING that this plant will make 3 oz, look at week 4 and you will understand why i am so happy and amazed ;) Lanky aka Sativa dominant tangie which is choped today could still go, its day 104 from seed. This girl and really all of them except upsidedown should be defoliated, but its my first auto run purely indoors and i read so many crapy results, didnt want to stress them a lot. From 6 girls only 5 sprouted. All very diff just two fatties where lookalikes . Upside down had strange life and she looked and was trained ( toped ) other way than her sisters. Foxtail early started so quick and so strong but ended with airy foxtailed buds and last lanky aka sativa diminant had loads of colas in videos before harvest its easy to spot she should be lolitoped higer, again i would ajust it during grow, but fears about autos prevented me from using many tricks. With all love to RealGorillaSeeds , this bach was crap. Day 108. I have holidays and UpsidedownTangie with leaves was still damp as was Lanky Tangies all bigger buds ( if that airy long strech but crystaly as f@#k crap around stemp we can call weed or bud ;)))) ) So both where left for extra 3 weeks overdry ;))) hope it wont be harsh from that. I can guarantee that Upsidedown is the Champ at moment, those 4 top branches will have an ounce in them, so plant will be 90+. With Lanky Tangie is diff story, she is airy i needed to trim and lolitop her a lot more, she just couldnt feed every bud, still that pheno is super crystaly. I like it and from 2 bottom branch hangers i got 35+, so 3 other will have like 45-50 on them, again loads of .... Thats my nutes, in bag epsom salt, it was first grow with all of them, as you see for 9 plants I used almost nothing. In 3 weeks i will have full weights and smoke report, i like Tangie more everyday, still not even close to my fav taste ... P.s. i had a bit of leftovers of topmax, bio grow and bio bloom. Max like 200 ml. Bio grow still have a bit left in promo bottle. Less is more ! Day 125 Upsidedown Tangie 93.4 - current Champ, its amazing what she managed to do ... Lanky Tangie - 76.8 So total for all 5 Tangies is : 376.91 Not bad, still i will update later and ill explain why i didnt liked them ...

Semaine impeccable plante robuste consomme beaucoup. 3 irrigations par semaine, 1/3 avec engrais.

Uau Day 49 bloom d94 from seed Washing machine looks beautiful .2 diferent phenos untopped is more cheesy and the small one topped is much more kushy .. i love the smell from both but cheesy is more intense.. They keep fatting up ...ill start my flush next week...

final frostbanger fast buds ❤️ 12 semaines récoltée poids humide 515 grammes netoyer grosses têtes pour la plupart et lourde dense photo dans la barquette. le sceau petite tête les feuille étaient tellement encré dans les têtes et collé aux tête que c'était pénible pour la netoyer. plusieur tête coupé. 6 heures de nettoyage. mais résultat très beaux brillant collant pleine de résine j'ai du changer au moins 10 fois les gants tellement que cela collait. conclusion très belle plante. très belles têtes dodues qui sent teop bon et le fumer un gout frais et évidemment l'essentiel : elle DEFONSE.j'adore. . j'adopte avec la gorilla cookies . et maintenant la frostbanger. je la referais. elle vaut le coup MERCI FAST BUDS ❤️ MERCI BIOTABS ❤️ je viendrai dire combien sec je vais avoir mais vue la grosseur des tête elles vont prendre un peux de temps . comme la gorilla cookies les têtes sont tellement grosses qu'elle prennent du temps désolé pour le peux de foro mais j'en ai eu marre hier soir à 23 heures .j'ai fait au plus vite samedi la gorilla cookies 8 heures de coupage dimanche la frostbanger 6 heures c'était long

Leaves starting to turn purple , will start flushing in two days to take it to 60 days flowering .

Je n'y touche plus et laisse faire mère nature.

Hey everyone, It is going to be my second grow, this time I received 3-3 Ayahuasca Purps, and Peyote Critical from Barney's Farm. SO excited for these ladies!!! 2019-02-12: planted the seeds in coco pellets. I hope I will receive my tent tomorrow, so I can start working on it, and moving the girls in as soon as possible. UPDATE on week1: it took only 2 days for them to pop!!! 100% Germination rate, 6/6 popped, although I'll only keep 5 . My setup: Secret Jardin HS80 2x 125W CFL 1x 300W CFL Soil: Canna Terra Professional Thanks for reading, stay updated and check my insta: @weed_gastro :)

I kept a close eye on defoliation. But it isn't easy now. Hopefully, she gets a huge collar.

Wie man sieht, haben die beiden F1-Samen ein enormes Wachstum gezeigt, während das Apple Flitter langsames Wachstum zeigte. Ich baue zum ersten Mal F1-Autoflower-Samen an und die Wachstumsrate ist wirklich beeindruckend. Nach drei Wochen habe ich Holzstäbchen zur Unterstützung hinzugefügt, und die Wachstumsrate der F1-Samen ist weiterhin beeindruckend. Sie sind bereits bereit, Blüten zu bilden. ご覧の通り、2つのF1種は驚異的な成長を見せたのに対し、Apple Flitterは遅い成長を示しました。私は初めてF1オートフラワーの種を育てていますが、その成長速度は本当に驚異的です。3週間が終わった時に木の棒を挿して整理しましたが、F1種の成長速度はやはり驚異的です。すでに花を咲かせる準備ができています

By the looks of the trichomes this girl is ready I will let it go one more week because the weather forecast seems to be sunny but if anything changes to Everyday rain I would chopper her down to protect the flower. Thank you for reading and I will continue to update have a happy grow.

Harvested these ladies at day 68 of flower. Minus the tops from plant #2. Absolutely stunning genetics! All the plants expressed a range of pinks, reds and purples. I’ve not just experienced anything like it to this extent. All the plants share a mixture of different terpenes, but predominantly Orange, Cherry and Gas. Plant #1 smells of Trop Cherry Plant #2 smells like heavy sour Gas Plant #3 smells like Orange oil & Gas Plant #4 smells like Orange oil & Gas Plant #5 smells like Cherry & Orange Plant #6 smells of heavy Cherry Gas with subtle Orange tones. Plant #7 smells like heavy Orange Gas I’ve ended up leaving plant #5 to keep flushing with the new group 🤷‍♂️😸 I’ve added a video of a dry bud from plant #2 The second video is plant #6. It’s been a really fun grow, I’ve got clones of the plants I want to run again so expect future diaries. I’d like to thank everyone who has commented or liked this diary, I hope it’s been helpful in some way 😸 PersonalSmok3s🌱💚

Day91: 72h of darkness and they all be chopped. Harvested and jarred the experiment grow (the plant was rescued then topped) 21g total. Not bad all things considered. I think I can get 100g with the whole grow Chop day: 31/8 day 96. Plants are drying in the tent at 25ºC and 61%RH

Esta produciendo muy poca resina, no estoy seguro de porque. Tengo un poco de araña roja y pulgón en los cogollos más bajeros pero no hay demasiados y se están concentrando ahí.

Día 42 (27/02). Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2,5 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 0,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 898 PPMs - pH 6,5 (mínimo ajuste con pH+ para subirlo desde 6,2) Plantas sedientas con un intervalo de riego cada 4 días. A partir de ahora regaré cada 3 días Día 43 (28/02) Las ramas crecen muy rápido y se van colocando para recibir el máximo posible de luz. Es impresionante su evolución día a día! Día 44 (29/02) Han crecido 17 cm desde que cambié a 12/12. Alucinante! 😍😍😍 Día 45 (01/03) Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2,5 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 0,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 891 PPMs - pH 6,25 Añado un poco de substrato al top y a los bordes de la maceta antes de regar, porque se ha compactado ligeramente. Día 46 (02/03). Las plantas siguen su crecimiento imparable. 3 cm al día 😍 💦Nutrients by Gen1:11 - www.genoneeleven.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae 🎚️Controlled by TrolMaster TCS-1 Tent-X System Main Controller - https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1