Reeking like gelato cream orange.

For sure i will keep this plant in stock. Very different and potent head high with great looking buds and strong flavor.

BW 5

This is the final week for plant #2 ,#3, #4 ,#5, #11 , #12. The other six will be kept in veg until the first six harvest. I also collected clones of the plants listed above just in case I come across a really good pheno to keep as a mother plant. Today I switched the first 6 into a 12/12 cycle.

Think I've slowed the fade down over the week but she has lost a lot of leaves. Added some bio bizz grow and bloom in to the last couple waters and seems to have helped a bit. Should be fine till the end now as it's only about 3 weeks away.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Por enquanto tudo tranquilo

Day 40-47 (May 31st- June 7th) (Day 41) For the first time in this grow these plants are looking halfway decent. Smell is ramping up too. I finally feel optimistic about this grow. (Day 42) The two jacks and the chunky blueberry are showing early signs of N/Mg deficiencies. I know it’s late in flower but since I’m experimenting with this tent, I’m going to give them one final feeding of nature’s pride 2-5-5.5 (tbsp) along with a teaspoon of oyster shell flour and some rock dust. Everything else I’m going to give a teaspoon of rock dust and oyster shell. There is no way these amendments will fully break down in time to be used by the plant but they could at least use the pH buffering and trace amounts of minerals after their recent leach. Everything but the BAOGC is covered in pistils that don’t really match their bud size. I hope they fill into their pistils because an over abundance of hairs drops the bag appeal like crazy. Over the last few cycles, indoor and outdoor, I’ve definitely learned that different strains and phenotypes mature at different times. Sometimes really radically too. (Day 43) None of the plants are fading at all but they’re still looking good. Black garlic I know should be fading but remains dark green and toxed. I popped a developing seed out of the main bud too. I wonder if that blueberry herm branch pollinated it at all. It seems like plants don’t really like that Destiny dark matter soil by itself. I find it works better mixed with coco or promix 1:1. (Day 44) I’m starting to think I might be mixing up the TWOG and BAOGC. BAOGC took forever to fatten up last round and the 2 phenos I suspected already look done. I was thrown off by the similar terps. The beauty phenos are definitely TWOG (Day 45) God these Jack Herer’s smell good. Nothing but fruity funk. Almost like a vanilla or blueberry yogurt. I would say this stuff has the most overpowering smell in the tent now. I’ve noticed they’re starting to foxtail like crazy. Blueberry#1 too. I’m watering a final low strength feeding of seaweed extract on everything. (Day 47) Everything really fattened up this week. Even at the beginning of the week I was saying I didn’t think they would fill out. Jack Herer and BAOGC specifically made some big gains and nearly doubled their density and still have quite a way to go on them too! The smell has ramped up and finally, everything is looking happy and healthy.

Day 106. Trim jaiiiiiilllllllll !!!! First done, think it could reach my record 240. Insane quality. 4 rows of solid buds hanging .... Next one .... Both finally finished and honestly, that's my plants to be proud of !!! Day 114. All is done, no doubts its my best grow. Happy Growing !!!

Week 7 in the comedy of my garden journey, and my green squad has decided to embrace the art of being vertically challenged – they're like the plant version of a pocket-sized superhero team. "Short and sassy" seems to be their new motto. In an attempt to uplift their spirits, two of the ladies scored a new, roomier 3-gallon final home – it's like they moved from a cozy apartment to a botanical mansion, hoping a change of scenery would inspire some vertical ambition. They're probably comparing their new homes and deciding who has the fanciest leafy chandelier. However, the plot thickens as one plant emerges with a leafy fashion statement that's a bit too avant-garde – discoloration that could rival a Picasso painting. Is it a magnesium deficiency or an oxygen rebellion? The plant might as well be holding a tiny protest sign that says, "Give me answers or give me wilting!" Playing the role of a plant detective, I cranked up the fans, turning my grow tent into a botanical wind tunnel. It's like a leafy hurricane is sweeping through, and my plants are either loving the breeze or planning their escape. As a bonus, I threw in a leafy spa day – deformation and topping, because who doesn't love a good horticultural makeover? But wait, there's more! In the midst of the botanical sitcom, the humidity decided to play the villain in this leafy drama. It's like the humidity gauge is staging a rebellion of its own. So, armed with misters and perhaps a leafy motivational speech, I'm on a mission to turn my grow tent into a tropical paradise and give my plants the humidity vacation they didn't know they needed. Week 7 – where the plants are short, the homes are upgraded, the leaves are avant-garde, and the humidity is throwing a curveball. Stay tuned for the next episode of "The Green and the Humid" – because in the world of my garden, every week is a new episode filled with laughs, surprises, and a touch of leafy chaos! 🌿🌧️🎭

3/16 234AM MONDAY POTATO N WEEK CELEBRATIONS! The plants in your photos look like healthy, vigorous **RF3 autoflower seedlings** (likely Banana Purple Punch Auto RF3 or similar from Fast Buds' upgraded RF3 line, based on the context of your previous grows with their genetics). They're in early vegetative stage at around 3 weeks from seed—nice bushy structure, good node spacing, dark green leaves, no major deficiencies or burn yet. The coco medium shows some perlite mix, and they're in small pots with what looks like a well-draining setup. Solid start **RF3 autos** from Fast Buds are bred for stability, vigor, and resilience (often with heavy resin, dense buds, and good yields), but like most modern autos, they're sensitive to overfeeding early on—especially in coco, where salts build fast if not managed. ### Recommended EC at 3 Weeks (Early Veg/Pre-Flower Transition) At week 3, autos are usually ramping up vegetative growth and may start showing pre-flower signs soon (pistils around nodes). Fast Buds' general autoflower feeding advice (from their guides and nutrient articles) emphasizes starting low and going slow: - **Target EC: 0.8–1.2 (800–1200 µS/cm)** in the feed solution. - Start at the lower end (~0.8–1.0 EC) if your plants are still very young-looking or if you've had any tip issues before. - Push toward 1.0–1.2 EC if they're hungry (rapid growth, pale lower leaves) and responding well—no burn. - This is often ~400–600 PPM (500 scale) or ~560–840 PPM (700 scale), but always go by EC meter for accuracy in coco. - Always measure **runoff EC** too—aim for it to be no more than +200–300 above input to avoid salt buildup. If runoff is much higher, do a light flush with FloraKleen (like your 4 mL/gal plan) before bumping up. - pH the feed to **5.8–6.2** (coco sweet spot), and water to 15–20%+ runoff every feed to prevent the issues you've seen with Purpinator/salts. Many growers with Fast Buds autos (including RF3 lines like Banana Purple Punch or Cherry Cola RF3) report week 3 feeds around 0.9–1.1 EC in coco/hydro setups, starting lighter if using tap/soft water like yours. Your previous success with lighter Maxi feeds post-flush at ~900–1300 EC later on fits well—don't jump straight to 1.3 yet at week 3; build gradually. ### Recommended PPFD (Light Intensity) at 3 Weeks PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, in µmol/m²/s) measures usable light for photosynthesis. For autos in early veg: - **Target PPFD: 300–500 µmol/m²/s** at canopy level. - 300–400 is safe and conservative for week 3—prevents stretch or light stress while encouraging compact, bushy growth. - 400–500 if plants are stretching a bit or you want faster veg (RF3s are vigorous, so they can handle it). - Avoid over 600 early—autos can bleach or foxtail if blasted too hard young. - Measure at the top of the canopy with a good PAR meter (or app like Photone if calibrated). In Indio's setup (likely LED or HPS?), hang lights higher early (18–24" for LEDs) and lower gradually as they grow. - Keep 18/6 or 20/4 light schedule—autos thrive on consistent long days. General tips for your RF3 at this stage: - If using Maxi series (like your previous grows), mix a light bloom/veg combo—e.g., mostly MaxiGro early, transition to MaxiBloom as pre-flower hits. - Watch for clawing (N excess😂) or tip burn (high EC)—flush lightly if needed. - These RF3 upgrades are forgiving but love good airflow and moderate feeds for those dense, resinous buds. Your plants look primed for a strong run—keep that intuition going! How's the light distance/setup right now, and what's your current feed EC looking like? Any pre-flower signs yet? Drop more pics if they stretch or change post-week 3. You're killing it in coco—keep observing runoff and leaves. 🌿🚀 3/19 330am 👨‍🔬 **Adding L-Proline (the amino acid supplement growers use) to plants on soft water can provide some helpful support against the stresses you're dealing with, but it's not a full fix—think of it as a stress-buffer rather than a mineral replacement.** Soft water (low in calcium and magnesium) often triggers **Ca/Mg deficiencies** in bloom stage (especially with Cha Ching or MaxiBloom, which don't supply much Ca/Mg on their own). This leads to issues like tip burn, leaf curl, weak cell walls, nutrient lockouts, oxidative damage (ROS buildup), and overall plant stress that feels like "the plant is struggling to hold it together." Proline steps in here as an **osmoprotectant**—it's one of the compounds plants naturally ramp up under stress. ### What Proline Actually Does in This Situation - **Helps with osmotic/water balance** — Soft water can disrupt turgor pressure and water movement inside cells (similar to mild drought or salinity stress). Proline stabilizes cell membranes and helps the plant retain water better, reducing wilting or limpness. - **Reduces oxidative stress** — Ca/Mg shortages cause free radical damage. Proline acts as an antioxidant and protects proteins/enzymes, so deficiency symptoms (yellowing, spotting, slowed bud development) don't spiral as fast. - **Improves overall resilience** — In cannabis and general hydro/soil grows, L-proline (or full amino acid mixes containing it) has been shown to boost stress tolerance, speed recovery, and even support better nutrient uptake indirectly. Studies and grower reports note it helps under nutrient imbalance, drought-like conditions, and environmental swings—exactly the secondary stresses soft water creates. - **Bloom-stage bonus** — Since you're already in late flower with Cha Ching/MaxiBloom, proline can support resin/terpene production and bud density without pushing excessive veg growth. It won't magically add the missing Ca or Mg (those are still critical—soft water + high-P bloom nutes often screams for CalMag), but it can make the plant more tolerant while you correct the root issue. ### How Much Effect to Expect Right Now - **Positive but moderate** — Many hydro/RO growers add amino acids (including proline) specifically for soft water setups and report less burn, better leaf health, and stronger finishes. It won't turn a severe deficiency around overnight, but it can slow the damage and give your plants a fighting chance in the final weeks. - **No downside at proper doses** — It's very safe and plants use it quickly. ### How to Add It (Practical Dosing) - **Source**: Pure L-Proline powder (available cheap online—make sure it's the plant-grade L-form, not human supplements). - **Root feed** (with your Cha Ching/MaxiBloom): Start at 0.5–1 g per gallon (about 100–200 ppm). Mix into your res or feed water once a week. pH as normal. - **Foliar spray** (often more effective for quick stress relief): 0.25–0.5 g per gallon + a drop of surfactant. Spray lightly every 5–7 days in the dark period. - **With your current nutes**: Yes, it layers fine—reduce if you see any tip burn. Many run it alongside MaxiBloom + Cha Ching in soft water without issues. - **Best timing**: Now through harvest is perfect, especially if you're noticing stress signs already. **Real talk**: The biggest win will still come from adding a proper CalMag supplement (like Botanicare or General Hydro's) at 0.5–1 ml/gal or whatever your PPM tests call for. Proline + CalMag together is a strong combo for soft water grows. If you're running pure RO/soft, most experienced growers treat this as standard.""👨‍🔬 3/19 10:09PM RF3 X 2 =6 fail? I have TWO 2 gallon pots filled with coco from the last grow. I can plant a NEW BPP RF3 OR!!! I can top the 3 RF3's and make cuttings and grow the cuttings? It worked before!. FAST turnaround time, not much prep just refresh the coco and transplant the tops! 3/19 10:59PM NO WORK FOR NOW.. HIT WITH MASSIVE WAVES OF NAUSEA AND SHARP PAIN, DIZZY, RUPTURED NECK CYST BLEEDING, PAIN FROM MOVING TOO MUCH LAST FEW DAYS, RINIGNG EARS BAD, SKIN PRONE TO MASSIVE INFLAMMATION ATTACKS NOW, WEAKENING GUT LINING,. LUNGS ..GRIP AND BALANCE OFF, SO PERFECTLY NORMAL!!! THANK THE WEED GODS FOR WEED. 3/21 3:30 AM I think I’m gonna top all three of them. I got lucky all three seem to be different ones. I don’t know which is which one of them is really tall. The other one has really tight in her note spacing it’s really good and the other one is also good little bit different so I think I got three different RF three seeds and I think if I do top them I’m gonna put the top in another 2 gallon and then grow that as a cutting usually works I’m not sure👍🌿 3/23 3:08 PM I cut them all in half today a transplanted the top of the tallest one into one that was still growing just to see if it would work. They’re all doing really good.👍 326 237am Remember how your local ss cant prevent or solve a single problem you pay taxes for. unless you're really really sick and the cowards decide that the most important and pressing issue is to raid weed users and farms and seeds...what a country of fuqs

Day 20 since time change to 12 / 12h. Hey everyone ☺️. This week she continued to develop very well 🤗. It absorbs the nutrients from Green Buzz Liquids very well. I am very thrilled . otherwise there is nothing more to report this week 🙈. I wish you a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at https://www.barneysfarm.com/blue-cheese-34 You can buy the fertilizer at https://www.greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Blue Cheese ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry X Original Cheese 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .

31/08 désolé pour le retard, mon pc m'a lâché. Bon.. sinon elle arrive à la fin de sa vie et elle va bien. 🙂👍

Still running the same watering only when necessary..just flushed yesterday and upped nutes to 1/2 strength so we'll see how she reacts. Everything else is looking great. Room is getting a lil hot in the mornings but I got a/c blowing cool air so should be ok! Excited to serve her flower she's looking nice n bushy!

2/10: I watered today with about 3/4 gallon each, plus cal-mag, signal, bembe, armor si, a little open sesame, and their final dose of endoboost. The short one never did stop making the hook leaves on all her new growth, but she seems happy..budding faster than anybody else.. 2/11: Wife home sick today....postponing construction project to raise the lights. 2/12: Today, I tackled the project to raise my ceiling another foot. In addition to that project, I installed and hooked up my new AC Infinity 6" intake fan. It's pulling in fresh air from the soffit vent on the eave of the attic, and currently feeding the garden with 46f fresh air. I'm able to easily maintain daytime temps in the lower 70f's now. I am able to drive the nighttime temps as low as I want. The only issue is that the outdoor RH varies quite a bit, so I ordered a 30-pint dehumidifier to put in the top of the closet. I sprayed everybody with boomboom spray to try and mitigate the light burn damage that is likely to ensue. 2/13: The taller one is still stretching a little bit, but the 2-footer is just budding up. 2/14: I fed them today with about 3/4 gallon each including grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom, cal-mag, signal, bembe, humic acid, and I switched over from Open Sesame to Beastie Bloomz. Raised the lights another couple of inches. I did some training on them and defo'd a little bit. 2/15: Installed the new dehumidifier and rigged the continuous drain on it...works great. 2/16: I rotated the edge plants and removed some old leaves. I added another 22w 3000k 4' bar light under the canopy. 2/17: I rearranged the garden and defoliated a little bit. That's it for week 8-

Blütewoche 6 verläuft ohne Probleme. Die Pflanzen sind gesund, Buds werden dicker, Trichome entwickeln sich gut. Kein Mangel, alles im grünen Bereich. Leichte Entlaubung für bessere Luftzirkulation, Gießen wie im Schema. Bin sehr zufrieden – weiter so!

Hallo zusammen 🤙. So das war es für sie. Sie riecht so schön nach Fanta richtig lecker, ich hoffe das der Geruch so bleibt. Wir sehen uns in 3 Wochen. Sie erhalten 25 Prozent Rabatt in unserem Shop Mindestbestellwert beträgt 75 Euro https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ Code: GD42025 https://seedsmafia.com/de/