Today 7/30/19, day 57 and the start of week 9. I'm still continuing to alternate between days with my pesticide treatment (especially after finding that bug living on one of hulkberries fan leaf) and thrive alive green daily foliage spray as a prophylactic solution against any possible pests or mold going into these last few dog days of veg. I will flush them with distilled ph'd water for two days this weekend in preparation for flower. Then I'll start them on some "flower fuel" bloom booster on top of my secret for success flower recipe at 1/4 of the recommended strength. Outside of that still no adverse issue to report for the end of the 8th week. After my last trim, they both have responded very nicely, I was kind of worried about fat banana stalled growth. But one thing I noticed when I topped her at the 6th node, yes the main stem stopped growing but it developed many bud sites up and down every stem. Whereas hulkberry was topped at the 8th node, she has mainly focused on developing long stems and only 2 or 3 bud sites along her stems. Even though hulkberry in structure, is much bigger than fat banana and has a way bigger root system. Fat banana is bushier and has developed way more bud sites than hulkberry. I can't tell which strain will yield the most at this point only time will tell! Also, a big shout out to "J"@RQS, thank you for the excellent customer service. Another reason why Royal Queen Seeds is top 3 in breeding!!

-🚿 Start "fast track" flushing in the bathroom, with the 2 plants in airpots (had the first signs of amber trichomes) + defoliation. ℹ️ After the first drainage the TDS was 1600ppm & 1800ppm (second lemon). - It took 30 min flushing and the final check (soil drainage) was at 600ppm & 700ppm. - The other 2 plants are few days behind, flushing at the end of the week. ⚠️ Update week end - 🚿 Flushed the other two plants at the last day of week. ℹ️ Firat drainage for the big lady at the simple pot was 1750ppm, after the flush went under 600ppm, the plant in fabric was 1800ppm and went under 700ppm. - Temps higher the last days (+30 C°) humidity 40% - 50%.

swelling up nicely. pics out off the tent are from the last day off week 5. day 35 of flower

🍬

Day 22: re-trained new branches with LST. Trying to train a clone is proving to be kind of annoying. Whatever. Did a meal of 1250 and it seems a bit too low. Will try and do about 1400 next time. Watered today with the 1250 again. No PM showing up again yet. Sprayed with H2O2 in case. Day 26: re-training daily now. Reacting very well to about 1500 EC. Run off is still low, but higher than before. Going to raise it a little bit more to get it going before flower. Been spraying every other day with H2O2/H2O. Still no signs of PM. Sprayed with second treatment of neem oil. Growing faster now. Started having to loop around the main stem with LST. Going to be about a 6 week veg time for this guy because of the PM. Probably would have switched by now if it wasn't for the PM. Gives my other non-clones time to catch up. Day 27: first day of 12/12. Plants will only receive 12hrs of light today. Removed any red lst trainers in anticipation for stretch. Left the wire tied ones alone. Fed at about 1700. With R/O water my pH has actually been staying "perfect". I was using the system with tap before and would always have to adjust it a bit with ph up/down. The company recommends r/o water for a reason. Still no signs of PM and it's been over a week. Did a second spray of neem oil yesterday regardless. Looks great. Already did a heavy defol. a week ago so I think I'll be straight going into flower. I'll defol in a few weeks once the colas are noticeable.

love this strain. It survived 2 weeks of cold and rain late flower without any mildew or mold. all my other strains got PM that week. I expected the yield to be a little bigger but can't complain. amazing, smooth high.

Woooo! I kicked off the first week of the flower by mixing together and applying a topdress consisting of worm castings, biochar, insect frass, kelp meal, neem meal, alfalfa meal, mustard meal, soft rock phosphate, malted barley, palm ash, basalt, rock dust, gypsum, and leonardite. I also added yellow sticky traps to see if there are any bugs around, since I haven’t even seen a single fungus gnat during the entire grow.

girls grow up fast and very strong💪, they eat a lot👨‍🍳. truly satisfied with both genetics. start to see some magic ...😍 DAY 14 🧐made a small defoliation🍁 to allow the girls to breathe better and the light to penetrate more as they are growing very luxuriant 🌱💚and fast! 🔝very happy so far!👨‍🌾

3.23.25 Fastbuds LSD-25 auto #1 Germination 1st week Only watering with spring water. Going to be using foop nutrients with Humboldts secret cal/ mag and nectar for the gods ph up and down! Here we go!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Ready to cut off smell is amazing

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Umstände.

No bug or disease problems. I even took her off veg nutes way too soon and she recovered like a fucking champ. I’m popping two more this week. Unfortunately i didn’t weigh it because Of some very unfortunate circumstances that I was dealing with at the time. I essentially had to vacate my premise within 24 hours. A few days after harvest. Anyways. I ended up smoking the whole thing with my friends and it was straight fire. The terps were crazy also. Super sweet. After curing she had a very sweet smell like bubblegum / grape. This was only my second harvest ever.

I've pretty much been hands off this grow. Just letting the plants do what they want. I did a spray with insecticidal Soap which shocked some of the auto genetics. Had some leaf loss but they are bouncing back. I saw one tiny fly and wasnt worth the shock some of the susceptible plants had. Lesson learned. I havent done much more than fimmed, topped, and lsted very lightly. Testing out fimming on autos. So far the lst only autos started flowering around day 23 to 25. The fimmed autos have stayed in veg much longer and were way more resilient. They are just starting to flower or show pistil. One of the Double Grape is showing completely different pheno than the other double grape. So much that I thought it might need 12/12 to flower. However it started showing pistils a day ago. Double grape responded very well to Fim and so did the northern lights big bud auto and purple scoops. I had problems with a driver on a brand new fc3000 blowing up, mars hydro sent me a replacement driver. They then wanted to squabble about replacing the plastic piece that connects the driver to the light. Two weeks later they sent the part after I told them I had to buy an HLG cause I couldnt believe they wouldnt send me a plastic part. Then the HLG I was sent was the 65 version not the 100 but they sent me the correct light right away and my plants and the clones loveeeed the HLG 100 v2. So much so that I bought the 65 version they sent by mistake and they gave me $10 bucks off for my troubles. Even though I had to be persistent with Mars Hydro they did do me right and now both my LEDs are working. However I had a 4 by 8 of plants all stacked on one end under 150 watts for weeks trying to get this solved. I had multiple power and light issues with adding the new 4 by 8 tent that costs my plants I'm sure. I decided not to freak about it and let things go with the flow and not stress. Things will not be optimum but I learn each grow about my setup and this is my first grow in soil so learning curves. I'm feeding very small amounts of calmag and seaweed extract in each watering which is every two to three days with ro water. I started this week three when the plants showed shock from the spray. It seemed to help them recover. I'm using light warrior, ocean forest and living soil layered mix. I kept 1 king tut, 3 alien tech clones which are doing good nice and rooted directly in light warrior. Transplanted week three in 3 gal pots. Never cloned before so is a learning process.

Fast fertig!

Looking good

Hey hey! So my first week of proper seedling growth felt like it lasted forever! I feel like I definitely overwatered them in the germination phase and for the first few days of being seedlings, dialled it back a bit by giving them an extra day to dry out and they seemed to react well and have a bit of a growth spurt. Note for next grow: When transplanting cubes plant them a bit deeper in the soil, as once you water them the soil compresses causing them to poke out a bit! Also noticed a slight bit of green algae on one of the cubes, just picked it off and covered with soil to hide from light. Measured the PH of my tap water and was surprised to see that it was measuring 8.5, whereas previously it was around 6.5 - 7. Checked online and supposedly I do have very soft water, so i'm guessing this was just an anomaly. Anyway, readings for this water were: Tap: 8.5 Mixed with some Calmag due to my soft water + PH down to balance it: 6.3 Runoff: 5.5 Was surprised by the runoff being so low, going to mix in a slightly higher PH for tomorrows watering (maybe around 6.8~) and see how the runoff turns out. Overall pretty pleased and finding growing SUPER satisfying! It's turning out to be an amazing hobby.

Week 17 (19-5 to 25-5) 19-5 Temps: 19.8 to 25.3 degrees Humidity: 45% to 57% Watering #1: 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 Lamp strength set from 70% to 75% 20-5 Temps: 20.1 to 25.4 degrees Humidity: 46% to 55% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.5 21-5 Temps: 19.9 to 24.3 degrees Humidity: 45% to 56% 22-5 Temps: 18.2 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 43% to 52% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.5 23-5 Temps: 18.2 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 47% to 56% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 24-5 Temps: 18.7 to 25.4 degrees Humidity: 50% to 54% Watering #1: 1000 ml. EC: 0.5 25-5 Temps: 19.4 to 25.8 degrees Humidity: 50% to 61% Watering #2: 1000 ml. EC: 0.5

Utilisation du Ryzofuel pour arrosage et vaporisation foliaire.