The three triple cheese plants are growing at the same rate at the exact same height... They are all from three separate seeds I grew these from seeds they are not clones... But I must know that triple cheese has a problem with cloning.? I finally got three clones to root outdoors but to be fair I did not dedicate a lot of time on getting clones.

I go into the local Hydro store and the previous owner happens to be there. We talk about my novice grow and I mention the "Calcium" issue as I show him a photo.... He immediately asks me " Are those pots on a concrete floor? Because if they are, your roots are getting cold making it look like a calcium issue".... The new owner gives me a nice slab of styrofoam from an old box to put on the floor of my tent as I go home. I sick my BlueLabs PH soil pen in a drain hole at the bottom side of my pot and HOLY CRAP its only 17c and the PH is 5.2 !!!!! I take the plants to the bathtub and flush them with clean water PH'd to 5.8, about 8L of rinse per pot. I check initial run-off and its a whopping 2300ppm/50!!!!! I also remove some of the effected fan leafs in hopes I dont get some sort of plant illness. A day later I do the same PH test, PH is 5.8 and temp is 22C...all is well again. I should have paid attention to growing saying...make sure you get run off checks.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

So I’d like to welcome 👋👋 you all to my competition journey (well, probably — because shortly after I bought the seeds, it turned out there was no longer an option to join 😭😱). However, since the seeds were delivered straight to my door, even if I don’t end up being able to participate in the competition, I’ll simply run this grow the way I would have done for the contest.😊 So let’s start with the fact that the strain planted is Watermelon Punch Autoflower by Growers Choice. ( Why this strain? While talking with a friend on Discord, he told me he’d try this SH**T, and since there was a buy-one-get-two-seeds deal, I didn’t hesitate for a second — I said, LET'S DO IT ) . Both seeds cracked their shells and were placed into the soil so they can continue growing beautifully and healthily, ultimately producing a fruitful harvest. After just one day under a moist paper towel, the seeds were already ready to be planted — and that’s exactly what happened. Truly a very good seed stock. A photo after they emerge from the soil will be added in a few days, and then we’ll be able to move straight into a productive vegetative stage. Since social media activity will also partly count in the competition, I’d like to invite everyone to follow me on Instagram, comment on posts, like them, and engage! Let’s show how big our community is and that we can support each other in achieving any goals. Everyone who leaves something on my socials will be rewarded with a solid, big joint and I’ll return the favor for what they’ve done for me!😘😍 For the community! Love you all !💪👊

Lunes 11 de marzo 7 am de 2024: Se dejaran hidratando las semillas por 24 hrs. Martes 12 de marzo 7 am de 2024: pasamos a papel dejamos por 24 hrs. Miércoles 13 de marzo 10 am de 2024: revisamos las semillas y vamos preparando macetas pequeñas para transplante. Miercoles 13 de Marzo 3:30 pm se traspasa a tierra. Viernes 15 de marzo 11:47 pm 2024, ya que abrieron bien se pone bajo lámpara 100w a 30 cm de distancia, tienen domo protector! El lunes en la nueva semana subimos el avance, hasta el Lunes... Sábado 16 de marzo 2024, de las 3 semillas la 1 ya abrió completamente, 2 y 3 están por abrir completamente.

first week of full flower, plant is looking good. 2nd last foliar spray of the year yay! We are getting there. Should be 7 to 9 weeks from now depending on weather. I'd LOVE to see some rain.

controlled fertilized!!

i am eagerly growing more of bliss genetics gear, he really impressed me with the first set of testers

( RUNTZ X F1DURB X GUSHERS )🍬🌈🍨🍧 PURP KICKIN INN END #WEEK4 CANT WAIT TILL THE BUDS SWELL UPP!! SUPA INTENSE CANDY TERPS THIS ROUND NOT BIG BUDS BUT SUPA HIGH IN BRIXX LEVEL WITH ALL THE ORGANIC CARBON INPUTS!! PPM 900/1200 1.2 max (Face Off OG x Watermelon Zkittlez) X (Runtz x F1 Durb x Gushers) 🍉🍬🌈🍧🍨🍦 LIL PRUPLE TINT WIT MOUTH WATERING SUGARY TERPS KICK INN END #WEEK4 BY WEEK 7/8 SHE WILL BE PURPLE PURPLE WIT SUPER INTENSE CANDY MOUTH WATERING TERPS CANT WAIT TILL SEE THEM BUDS SWELL UPP!! PHENO A/B NOT BIG BUDS BUT SUPA HIGH IN BRIXX LEVEL WITH ALL THE ORGANIC CARBON INPUTS!! PPM 900/1200 1.2 max

All I can say is god damn she's beautiful, pistils coming out from everywhere. This week I'm focusing on keep her low and dropping the veg nutes a bit and pumping with the bloom nutes.

Let me know what y’all think I went all out on the training and defoliation 🤟🏻Started adding some molasses into the water schedule there’s a couple that are stunned for sure already budding. Just trying to learn as much as possible thanks gromies! Ps Excuse my long toes🤣

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 61 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey everyone ☺️. Today the time has finally come and the last week of flowering has begun 😍. She looks beautiful and her buds smell very tasty 👍. The trichomes are 70% milky and 30% amber. The lady comes in complete darkness for 48 hours before the harvest. Of course, as always, there will be a small interim update of the harvest before the last major update. Until then, I wish you all a lot of fun and stay healthy 👍🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/220-pineapple-kush.html Type: Pineapple Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Pineapple x O.G. Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: GHSC Powder Feeding Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

We are up to speed now things should be on track now..gave dem girls some more room and set dem in their final resting

I'm gonna jump right in..👨‍🌾 The high stress technique I have used a couple days ago called super cropping, I (tried more or less) to keep the canopy under control and more even. This also allow lower bud sites to rise to the top and slow down the 'stretching'. 🌲🌲🌲🌲🌞🌞🌞🌞 The trade in doing it at this stage, is that the plant is also focusing more on healing the stems instead of total focus on the buds. But I'm probably early enough in the flower stage they will make it up by having more strong stems in the end. That's because the points they are broken now are gonna heal back more strong.💪💪💪 I've added some nutrients to help them heal. Aptus is working great with my organic soil👍😎💚 🌊💦 🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞 As you maybe have seen I've added some extra lights. This are Mars Hydro's new Adlite's. Here is some info about them in my own words.👨‍🌾 -IR 15, is a infrared light that is promoting extra photosynthesis. Basically long wave length of lights that will penetrate leaves and hit the stems, so the idea is stems will be more strong and be able to carry bigger buds. -UV 30, is a ultraviolet light that will try to mimic the radiation that comes of the sun. A little explanation about what this does to the plant in nature is that the plant will make it's own sunblock oil in the form of trichomes. So by adding this light the idea is that the plant is gonna work more to block this 'radiation'. -Deep Red 30, is like the title maybe already explained a red light booster. In nature the spectrum of the sun changes with the season, so it's easy to explain the sun will get more intense and contains more red in the summer. The wavelength of red is also pretty long like the 'infrared' these will sometimes penetrate leaves and hit stems and lower buds. The idea is more photosynthesis.

Day 106 16/10/24 Wednesday (Start of week) No watering today. But picture and video update 📸 💚 to start the week off 🤩 - just noticed I missed out Auto Kabul... I'll add her tomorrow. Day 107 17/10/24 Thursday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with flawless finish today Day 108 18/10/24 Friday I have moved them!! Now in the cleaned down 1.2m x 80cm. Under 660w to finish this week off 💚 Day 109 19/10/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water with flawless finish pH 6. Only 300ml Day 110 20/10/24 Sunday Another de-chlorinated tap water with flawless finish pH 6. Day 111 21/10/24 Monday De-chlorinated tap water and flawless finish ph 6 again. Again 300ml. Will upload pictures and videos tonight ✌️💚 Day 112 22/10/24 Tuesday (End of Week) Edit: Changed my mind, doing one last flush with de-chlorinated tap water and flawless finish pH 6. She can finish the week then go dark🌑 mode wednesday morning 😁✌️

Hey guys . A wonderful week goes by with a super growth :-). After I topped it for the first time last week, it recovered very quickly and showed great growth. I don't think I will use topping again on the lady because I should slowly blossom with a few other women :-) think it will be ready in the next 7-14 days for Flowering 👍. This week it was poured 3 times with 1 l each time (for nutrients, see table above). The tent was cleaned and the health of all women was checked :-). After the photos she was sprayed again with neem oil so that the last little tripse disappeared. Even if you can't see any more trips I will spray it one last time next week to make sure :-). I wish you all a happy new year 2022 ☺️. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

Hey Friends, end of week 13 from seed. This week i noticed colas are slightly getting thicker, but still a slower growth compared to my other plant (#2) I had to install some yoyos because some colas are falling to the side due to its weight Had trouble maintaining a steady humidity level Leaves are beginning to fade, not sure if its normal or because I increased light intensity this week Increased light intensity to 350 - 400 lux x100 Colas for some reason do not look thick enough and so far no amber on the trichomes, might need to wait Another week or two so I could begin flushing. Smell is stronger like green lemon mango, that weird smell it use to have is slowly going away. QUESTIONS So I planned a trip with my family on oct 9th, when booking the trip around 3 weeks ago I estimated that the plant would need another month before harvesting. Will this plant be ready for harvest before oct 9th? When should I begin Flushing ?

This strain smells like fresh oranges, it’s really high in terps. Yielded 5 oz dry off one plant and 4 oz dry off the other. Very happy with yield and quality. Excellent daytime smoke or in larger doses even works at night. Presses into some delicious rosin! Once again I’m very happy with Barney’s Farm!

Topped the plants this week. I think the soil got a little too dry on the Dos-si-dos toward the end of the week. It started wilting. Keeping a close eye on soil moisture. I think I'll need to water more often as the soil this run is predominantly coco coir.