Likes
Comments
Share
#seedsman420growoff and #SeedsmanSeeds 📆 Week 4, 18-24 May 2024 18 May - Observed and let the plant grow. 19 May - Cut off lower suckers from main branches (see video). 20-24 May - Observed and let the plant grow. 📑 This plant is growing remarkably even and fast with very little training. Next week a scrog ring will be going on to spread and open her up just before flowering. 🍶 18 May nutrient solution changed 🍽️ 18 May feeding schedule updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 2.1 at 72 degree F 🔆 Light power at 60%, DLI 25 canopy coverage at 18hrs 😤 Using General Hydroponics, HGC728040, Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, 320 GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.
Likes
15
Share
Extreme gas. Sharp fuel. Cat piss. Permanent marker funk? The fragrance is no longer a whisper. It a proclamation. Plant #1 — The Fat One — has entered a phase of growth so aggressive that even the ancient watchers of the garden might pause in admiration. Reaching an astonishing height of 75 centimeters, it has become a living monument of stem, leaf, and emerging floral intent. The stretch has been extraordinary. What was once merely the largest specimen now dominates through both mass and elevation. Thick branches spread outward like the limbs of an ancient forest god, while enormous leaves continue to harvest the artificial starlight with relentless efficiency. Plant #2 — The Battered One — remains close behind, pursuing a different but equally impressive destiny. Though it has not reached the towering height of its larger rival, its structure has become astonishingly dense. Branches emerge from every available space, weaving together into a bushy labyrinth of foliage and future flowering sites. Where Plant #1 seeks the sky, Plant #2 seeks dominion. Plant #5 — The Red One. For the first time since its selection, signs of struggle have become difficult to ignore. Overshadowed by its larger siblings, it finds itself competing beneath an increasingly crowded canopy. Its leaves have taken on a lighter green coloration, whispering of deficiencies and unmet needs. Though still alive and developing, its growth has slowed compared to the dominant pair.
Likes
21
Share
Eccoci entrati nella 3°settimana di fioritura.queste papaia cookie mi stanno sorprendendo.belle e sicuramente buone.hanno una struttura ben forte. Stanno iniziando pure a profumare in modo spettacolare.buona buona davvero.. Quando sarà pronta vi dirò anche com'è a livello di gusto e effetto stupefacente 😂🤣😂🤣
Likes
111
Share
@Salokin
Follow
Hello Growmies, Here we are at week 17 of flowering with our Northern Lights by Zamnesia, and the excitement is palpable. Let's dive into the updates from this incredible stage of growth. Our Northern Lights is flourishing beyond expectations. The buds are incredibly dense and continue to swell daily. This remarkable growth is a testament to the resilience and genetic quality of the plant.The trichomes are predominantly cloudy now, with a few beginning to turn amber. This is a crucial indicator of maturity and potency, suggesting that harvest time is approaching. The tent's aroma is becoming increasingly potent, a sign of the buds' maturing profile. I'm keeping the tent closed more often now to manage the strong smell. This intense aroma is a clear indicator of the quality and health of our plant. Looking back at the initial issues we faced, it's incredible to see how beautifully our Northern Lights has turned out. Her resilience and our adaptive approach have led to this stunning result. The EC level is now stable at 1.3, and she seems to be responding well to it. Over the next two weeks, I plan to gradually decrease the nutrient levels and then start the flushing process. This gradual transition is essential for the final quality of the buds. Your continuous support and engagement have been pivotal in this journey. Your shared experiences, tips, and encouragement have been invaluable. I'm eager to hear your thoughts and insights as we approach the final stages. Thank you for being part of this adventure. Your involvement has made this journey even more enriching. Stay tuned for more updates as we near the end of this flowering stage. Here's to the continued success and beauty of our Northern Lights!
Likes
10
Share
@Azazel420
Follow
I fiori crescono a vista d'occhio. Incomincio a sentire un leggero odore. I fiori si stanno gonfiando molto velocemente. Bevono molta acqua e sono affamate di fertilizzanti
Likes
9
Share
This week was good did some defoliation and training to get some more growth out of side branches turn dem to crown......the baby that's in full flower is fatten up don't kno how much more fatter she will get jus have to wait and see...until then happy growing
Likes
34
Share
This week it looks like shes starting to explode! besides the fact that I had to pull some colas to the sides to have a better air flow nad reduce her height everything is running pretty smooth! I think this was the week where she started to fully concentrate in flower
Processing
Likes
Comments
Share
Likes
8
Share
Double Dunked got harvested 16/11 and I'm planning to let her dry for 14-21 days before trimming and put them in glass+boveda (58%) and grove bags for final cure. Drying conditions are as follows: 16-18°C 55-60% RH
Likes
54
Share
19.09.21. Всем привет, дорогие соратники-гроверы. Время летит, Халку 2 недели, встречайте юбеляршу. 😄 Жирнющая, низкорослая, толстая, мохнатая, просто бомба а не девочка. Я думаю её низкий рост и жирность связаны с использованием хорошего led светильника и клрневого стимулятор, который работает. Пересадили девочку в 10 л мешок. Кстати, для безпроблемного пересаживагия, я беру два стакана, у одного отрезают дно и делаю два боковых надреза. Вставляю его в стакан у которого внизу есть дренажные отверстия. При пересадке, я достаю разрезанный стаканчик и вставляю его в новый горшок. Остаётся лишь дорезать боковые надрезы и вуаля. Всем до скорой встречи, Растафарай!!! 🙏Спасибо за внимание 🙏 21.09.21. Халкуша продолжает пухнуть и... Не расти😄 Преподнял немного лампы, кормление через день. Опрыскивание перед каждым сном. 24.09.21. 19 дней. Совсем не 0очет расти вверх, только в ширь, преподнял лампу на 10 см. Красавица, ведь правда?
Likes
3
Share
I've been feeding and pulled a few fan leaves. They are all different heights and getting really tall despite only being in two litre pots. The tallest pheno is already showing red buds.
Likes
16
Share
Well this was a really straight forward grow, very very pleased with the outcome and the bud isn’t completely cured 😋 5 Gal fabric pot with BioBizz light mix, some light consistent feeding, a FIM and basic LST, look at the outcome! No wonder their strain wins awards! I will 100% be growing more NL! Thank you RQS ✌️🙌👌🙏
Likes
45
Share
@AsNoriu
Follow
Day 15 since seed touched soil. BAMs are growing like BAM !!!!! Great strain from start. Sometimes i have rh drops to 40%, sometimes nights go as low as 16, no additives and girls are still in great shape for time they used. Thinking to spice roots with BioSys and Great White today before watering. After lights will go off they will get BioBizz Leaf Coat shower too. Friday morning those 3 are out to the woods ! This strain has potential for champions, no doubts ! Day 19. Girls are in final place, now race with the weather and summer starts !!! Hope they will make it, have really good impression till now about this strain . Happy Growing !!!
Likes
2
Share
Transplanted to a 5 gallon pot half way through the week and heavily watered/fed for the next 2 days, then topped for the first time at the end of the week. She's doing really well. Now it's about keeping the plants trained and the same height. 2 timelapses this week. Enjoy!
Likes
3
Share
@CalGonJim
Follow
1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
Likes
4
Share
Processing
Likes
26
Share
@GrowGuy97
Follow
Day 7 & 2 of the NHLs still havnt popped, transplanting the one NHL that did pop today! Day 12 think 1 of the orange sherbet have nute burn so flushing it out and dropping the dose a little hopefully that helps!