My favorite strain for some reason. It always survives, I thought one seed died. So I planted another...week later the other one grew. Survived mealy root bugs and all the insect soap, neem oil both altered the pH massive 5 to 9 fluctuation burned other plants but she kept going. She's smells like chewing gum fresh when I grind her up. I only dry for a day or over night because I do 4 smaller colas that don't take much time to dry. Got about an 1/2 oz or something, I trim and smoke as I go along, my grow tent is like my refrigerator , I just take some when I need it. 😎👍

Change Friday. First week of flush

_______________________________________________________ Mi. 25.3. - 3,5 Liter pro Pflanze gegossen (ca. 300ml Drain) - Rainpoint Bewässerungssystem eingesetzt - 1L auf 3 Pflanzen Nährlösung per Hand angegossen - Programm: 3min. ON / 3min. PAUSE / 3min. ON - 2L pro Zyklus. - 1L klar spülen zur Systemreinigung 1,2 ml / Liter "Calmag" 1,5 ml / Liter "Bio Grow" 4,0 ml / Liter "Bio Bloom" 4,0 ml / Liter "Top Max" Ph 6,2 / 790 ppm _______________________________________________________ So. 29.3. - 3,2 Liter pro Pflanze gegossen (ca. 200ml Drain) - 1L Nährlösung per Hand angegossen - 8L Nährlösung per Gießsystem - 0,5L klar spülen zur Systemreinigung 1,2 ml / Liter "Calmag" 1,5 ml / Liter "Bio Grow" 4,0 ml / Liter "Bio Bloom" 4,0 ml / Liter "Top Max" Ph 6,2 / 770 ppm

This week will probably be the last week of growth, as the plant has maintained its strong stretch and has more than doubled in size from 30 to 70cm since last week. The buds are now clearly visible, which is why I will be switching to flowering fertilizer from next week. A very beautiful flower canopy has developed, with the top bud standing out strongly in height. Apart from a scrog net, I do not use any other training techniques.

Big girls. Usually don’t let them get this big. They are starting to yellow a bit on the bottom. Not enough water me thinks

Increased Buddy to 1mm p/l. Really impressed with these nutrients so far, there's been no problems or defeciences the entire grow. All plants look happy, healthy and green. This plant is at the back of the timelapses.

What a fun run this was ! These Ogreberrys finished up from 81 days to 102 days with nice hints of gassy , sour purple , sweetness and glistening with frost! These ladies will cure up for a month an will be ready to test out ! So much fun , I highly recommend this strain if your looking for some oooy gooohy resiny grape smelling nugs !

Na

Girls doing well but have run into some calcium deficiency which will hopefully be fixed soon.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

She's praying under that 350R Stretch has been easily managed, growing about 17.5 inches the first 2 weeks with nice tight node spacing Vibranium absorbing all energies, and giving back with superhuman properties

🔥GrowDiaries Report: Sleepy Joe von Anesia Seeds – Start der Blüte unter 630W LED Der Grow mit Sleepy Joe von Anesia Seeds ist gestartet, und die Pflanzen zeigen schon jetzt ihr Potenzial. Nach einer stabilen Wachstumsphase geht es jetzt in die Stretch-Phase der Blüte. Das Setup mit 630W LED sorgt für optimale Lichtverhältnisse, und das Zelt ist bereit, die nächsten Wochen Vollgas zu geben. --- Setup & Start der Blüte Beleuchtung: 630W CMH – perfekt für dichte Buds und starke Trichomentwicklung Zelt: 120x120 cm – genug Platz für die Damen, um sich zu strecken Nährstoffe: Advanced Nutrients (Grow, Micro, Bloom) + CalMag Lichtzyklus: Umgestellt auf 12/12 für den Start der Blüte Temperatur: Stabil bei 24-26°C (Licht an), 18-20°C (Licht aus) Luftfeuchtigkeit: Runter auf ca. 50%, um Schimmel vorzubeugen --- Pflanzenentwicklung & Stretch-Phase Direkt nach der Umstellung auf den 12/12 Lichtzyklus zeigt Sleepy Joe ein ordentliches Stretch-Verhalten. Die Internodien-Abstände bleiben dabei schön kompakt, was für eine kräftige Blütenbildung spricht. Der 630W CMH Strahler liefert das perfekte Lichtspektrum für diese Phase, was die Pflanzen dazu anregt, ordentlich in die Höhe zu schießen und gleichzeitig die Basis für dichte Blüten zu legen. --- Nährstoffstrategie mit Advanced Nutrients & CalMag In der frühen Blütephase kommt jetzt Advanced Nutrients Bloom ins Spiel, ergänzt durch CalMag, um den erhöhten Bedarf an Calcium und Magnesium durch die starke Lichtintensität abzudecken. Die Pflanzen reagieren gut auf die Nährstoffzufuhr, das Blattgrün bleibt satt und kräftig. Tipp: In dieser Phase genau auf Anzeichen von Nährstoffmangel achten, besonders Magnesium und Kalium sind jetzt gefragt. --- Erste Blütenansätze & Ausblick Nach etwa einer Woche Blütezeit sind die ersten Blütenansätze zu sehen. Die Spitzen der Pflanzen bilden feine, weiße Härchen, die sich in den kommenden Wochen zu den dichten, harzigen Buds entwickeln werden, für die Sleepy Joe bekannt ist. Mit der 630W CMH-Beleuchtung und der richtigen Nährstoffstrategie sieht es nach einem vielversprechenden Grow aus. Die nächsten Wochen werden zeigen, wie gut Sleepy Joe das Setup annimmt und wie sich die Blüten weiterentwickeln. --- Wichtige Keywords für Grower: Growshop Tipps Anesia Seeds Erfahrungen 630W LED Grow Report Advanced Nutrients Anwendung CalMag für Cannabis Pflanzen Indoor Growing mit Growlight Beste Nährstoffe für Cannabis Blütephase starten mit Anesia Seeds Stretch-Phase optimieren Grow-Report für Anfänger und Profis --- Bleibt dran für das nächste Update, wenn die Blüten richtig an Fahrt aufnehmen. Happy Growing! 🌱

Really enjoyed growing this girl, so much adventure :D To think I started her off thinking she is an autoflower and will be done in 3 months :D She is supposed to indica dominant but at >2m I think I got a more sativa dominant branch. Can't wait to smoke after all this time

48 horas na água em local escuro. Menos de 48h em papel toalha. Sem qualquer tipo de aditivo.

Things are looking good. I started counting Day 1 before the dummy leaves even shed the seed, also, I think the 3 gal pots are probably holding back the above ground growth a tad. Been watering about .5 gallons each in a ring just outside the plant every 2-3 days. They look healthy and I'm sure by the end of the week, they'll be screaming along. Not sure if I'm more excited about the ganja or the melons. Lol. Can't wait to enjoy both ☀️🍉💨

Bit more eventful of a week this one. Just going about my normal business when I was checking them over making sure all sex organs were female. Noticed that something seemed amiss. I took me a bit to figure out why one of my girls hermie’d, but a bit of thinking back brought something to the forefront. I had not had the 3rd and 4th pieces of shelving, and since I had the shelving upside down, I had to balance them on the edge with a piece of wood. I had rearranged my plants after watering, and did not make sure each one was steady, when I went to open my tent on probably day 27 or 28, i saw one of my babies had fallen off the shelf and was crushed up against the wall of the tent at a 45 degree angle! I was like NOOOO sunflower not you!!! So at least I know why the darn thing did what it did. I removed it from the others as soon as I noticed. Wanting to see the root structure I chopped it at the base of its stalk. The whole pot had very healthy roots so that was good to see. Was still having trouble with the plants seeming to reject the cal-mag and other nutes I was giving it. Only had pool ph strips. Yakno, the ones that only have a range down to 6.2….. More on that next week.

Day 64: I've been on vacation for four days now. However, I was able to keep an eye on everything remotely using the spiderfarmer app. They look great. The Pink Cookies and the Purple Kush have grown quite a bit taller. The buds have generally grown larger and the first frost is visible. I watered all the plants with 2 liters of water mixed with fertilizer and Cal Mag. More shoots have also woven into the web. Day 65: Not much has changed since yesterday. The plants look healthy and happy. I lowered the light by 10 cm. I hung the fan over the lamp and set it to a faster speed. The flowers look beautiful. Since the Pink Gelato is growing taller now, I had to adjust the humidifier a bit. What varieties are you currently growing? Day 66: The girls are doing well! Today I defoliated the plants again. I decided to remove some of the leaves so that the top buds would grow nicely and I'd have as few popcorn buds as possible. I hope it wasn't too much. I also watered all three plants with 2 liters of water mixed with Hesi-Bio-Bloom and Cal Mag. Unfortunately, it's still quite warm in the tent. Do you have any ideas how I can get the temperature down? Day 67: Everything's still going well. They've taken the defoliation well so far and look healthy. Day 68: Today I gave them another 2 liters of water with fertilizer and cal mag. They look beautiful and have another 5-6 weeks to develop the flowers! Day 69: Today, all three girls received 2 liters of water with fertilizer and Cal Mag. I also raised the Purple Kush and created a raised area underneath it. I also increased the humidity to counteract the heat. Day 70: Today, all three girls were given 2 liters of water with fertilizer and CalMag. Otherwise, not much has happened. The buds are getting bigger and bigger. Unfortunately, it's still too hot in the tent—I hope it cools down soon!

Forgot to record last week (due to being too high) but here’s week 4 they seem to be doing great😄.

Were getting there! Plants looking beautiful and swelling up. Two questions below! Thanks for reading and happy growing.

ok guys so i decided to do another video update this week. i feel it gives you a little better idea of the size of this thing! check out the video!