Check the winners The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Lazuli
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Big love to MSNL seeds for breeding this fire, if i ever win the lottery i will save each and every one of u guys and buy big mansions. This plant is pure gold, elite level smell and resin production i cant believe its like life is a dream. Believe me if u grow it your life will change 💚
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@Lazuli
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Masive yield as always The heatwave was insane
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@jporfiado
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Las plantas se ven bien, me hubiese gustado que estén en una maceta mas grande. Intentare hacerlo esta semana aunque no se si sea lo mejor a esta altura.
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Let's start this epic chalange :) 😍😍42 days to birhtday my son <3 <3 <3 😍😍
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The plant has settled in now, and it's beginning to grow faster now. The stem isn't as thick as that from the Banana Kush Auto I grow parallel, but thanks to the added silica, super solid and rigid. LST doesn't seem like a great option, will probably try FIMing, or maybe Topping. I'll add photos later, that'll show the result of this decision process. UPDATE: I decided to FIM the Fat Monkey, to increase side branch production. ANOTHER UPDATE: I might've taken off a little too much when FIMing, which turns it into topping, I guess.
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El domingo 28 de febrero puse la semilla directo en tierra (estuvo 24 horas hidratándose en agua destilada) con micorrisas. Al día 3 brotó y de ahí no ha parado de crecer. Ambas son Lebron Haze XXL Auto (BSF), solo que una ha crecido más, la otra va más como arbusto.
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Gelatos doing well after small error, going to water them in the evening with a ph of 6.30 🤞. Hope to see them bigger this weekend.🎋
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@EtnoGrow
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well everything is going well without pests without at least not noticeable or minimal deficiencies surely, which leaves us calm, potassium soap and neem oil were purchased but it was not applied at the end, it will be the next one, after this pruning work a new one was installed scrog mesh and as you can see we also did with some or one at least the 2nd largest an attempt at sog, so it's like a mixture, then this big ugly mesh, we change it for an ideal girl what we want is that it doesn't grow too much in that The mesh helps us, well, we also change and go to flowering officially when we see that the plant is already flowering by itself, we spread a little so that the small 5 small pots grow a little more, the intensive pruning is to compensate for the ventilation that The temperatures may still be somewhat high, the air circulation in general, my closet is 60x60x160cm, so it comes in handy, it seems to me that we have carried out a good sativa plant by taming it in such a small space and it is I am proud, in addition to having the other copies as well, I hope I have taken advantage of the space and the light as best as possible, that was the idea.
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Wk 5 was Steady Away, Explosive growth starting, Transplanted one from aero to coco and added Began the Scrog As you may have noticed, I Expanded the garden to give the coco girls some more room. The Dawg in the aero wasn't taking well at all, she hadn't really had a good innings from the beginning. I transplanted her into the coco and Fed her very week nutes..
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@Ninjabuds
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Lit Marker is turning out to be a real powerhouse! It's one of my biggest plants so far, and it looks just like my Black Valentine. They must be from the same company or family, because those similarities are uncanny. Last week was awesome! I finally got around to giving all my plants a little upgrade – I repotted them into some bigger homes. They're all looking so happy and healthy now, it's crazy. I can't wait to see how much they grow this year!
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#1 start showing male parts so it got pulled....also seem like a have a mag. Prob hopeful it clear out during the week..... TP #3 to 7gal pot during 2week flowering....also TP another one that i wasnt keeping track of in veg into a bigger pot that only start growing after I topped it
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Looking great I think pheno one will end up finishing a week early, maybe soon I will start the flush for pheno 1, as far as pheno 1 and 2 I will keep them going until I see more development
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Day 74 took a look at trics last night and starting to see some amber coming through so starting flush and pull in another week or so see where its at did have ph problems till last week an a half got it takin care of better later then never
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Harvest Time of Fast Version B Strain and Welcome to : -Designers Club - Special Thanks to John for hopping through my Messages to Join The SSSC/DP Photo C8ntest The Project was Supported by Narcos Seeds to give the Strain the Perfect lifespan it could Deserve . Light used for The Contest Grow : Tenty Pro x4 200w in a space of 60x60 Homebox Ambiente Tent. Preparation Before Harvest : 5 Days without Feeding / 2 Days of them Complete in the Dark . Enough Talk from me , just Enjoy youre Seats and be a part of The Designers Club . Good Luck to Everybody and Keep up Growing !
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The two Red Hot cookies were by far the fastest strains in this run. And also simply beautiful. Bag appeal: 10/10 Yield: 8/10 Pheno #1 47 gram dry Taste:? High: ? Once I did a smoke test. I will add the missing information! Pheno number #2 has significantly more yield than Pheno #1. Pheno #2 smells like bubble gum, I've never had that smell with a strain before. If I had room for a mother tent, pheno#2 would have gotten a spot there. I'm looking forward to the next harvests !:)
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Well I was worried about my girl for most of the last week since I repotted her. But as you can see, she bounced back. Just took her about 5 days. Roots started spilling over the side so I through some soil on it. The soil will be removed during the reveal when the other roots are exposed.