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@Quantum
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She is looking beautiful! I can not talk enough about the Cronk nutrients, and how much it has made a difference. I know that my inexperienced training resulted in a plant that looks almost alien in nature. I will definitely be training differently going forward.
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Doing well in the soil with top dress of organic nutrients. I may do a second week of the Grow version before the transition to Bloom.
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This lady is impressive. Crazy growth everywhere. She has had her final thinning out (after these pics). Into week 4 we go! Buds are everywhere and the sugar is starting to show. She is a beauty!
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@Beans
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Well this was certainly an unexpected journey. Who wouldve thought a shitty little cutting I was planning on letting die would end up making it and becoming an international superstar? Life is a crazy game lol. Let's take a look back on the life of the plant, the myth and the legend of the 1 Leaf Wonder. RIP LEAF! U were the realest plant to ever have an imaginary personality! u will get smoked....I will forget shit....but u will not be forgotten lol🙏✌️✊
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@AustinRon
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Week 6 - Veg - Gassiautos Autoflower Fem by Gem Seekers Genetics START: Saturday 13 to Friday 19 Aug 2022’ GA3Q 36:V:6:1 - GA3Q 42:V:6:7 70 to Days Flower (Medium/Finishing Cultivar) GSG Gassiautos is: Pluto Auto X Samquanch (Skywalker OG x 3 Bears OG) Environment Plant Height: Start of Week: [ 6”, 0.063] End of Week: [ 6.5”, 0.063 ] Germination # 24 Hour Light until Cotyledons OPEN Environmentvegetation: Lighting: Photoperiod: [ 18, 0] # [ light, dark] Lighton: [ 2100, CDT] Lightoff: [ 1500, CDT] LightRangeintensity: [ 600, 800, µMol/s2/m2] Lightintensity: [ 740, 10, µMol/s2/m2] Lightdistance: [ 14", 0.25, in] Temperature-Humidity: ARMtemp-range: [ 78, 82, 1.0, °F] ARMRH-range: [ 68, 74, 1.0, RH] ARMRH: [ 70, 1.0, ‘%'] ARMVPD: [ 0.90, 0.50, 0.10, kPa] Local Filtered Water Quality: # (Horrible pH) EC:[ 0.2, 0.1] pH: [ 9.2, 0.1] # SuperSoil Fertigation, Biologicals, Humics SuperSoil: Brand: SOHUM Supplements: Bio-agveg: Ful-Power: [ 1.25, 0.1, ml, l] MicrobeLifeHydro: PhotosynthesisPlus: [ 3, 0.1, ml, l] Mammoth-Microbes: Mammoth-Si: [ 0.16, 0.01, ml, l] Fertigationaf-veg: [Bio-agful-power, MicrobeLifeHydrophotosynthesisplus] ______________________ Saturday 13 Aug 2022 GA3Q 43:V:6:1 Sunday 14 Aug 2022 GA3Q 44:V:6:2 Fertigation: amt: [ 250, ml], MicrobeLifeHydroPhotoSynthesisPlus: [ 0.6, ml], bioagFul-Power: [ 5, ml] Monday 15 Aug 2022 GA3Q 45:V:6:3 Fertigation: amt: [ 250, ml], MicrobeLifeHydroPhotoSynthesisPlus: [ 0.6, ml], bioagFul-Power: [ 5, ml] Tuesday 16 Aug 2022 GA3Q 46:V:6:4 amt: [ 250, ml] MicrobeLifeHydroPhotoSynthesisPlus: [ 0.6, ml] bioagFul-Power: [ 5, ml] RootedLeafLateVeg: amt: [ 250, ml] ec: 1.0 Wednesday 17 Aug 2022 GA3Q 47:V:6:5 Fertigation: amt: [ 250, ml], MicrobeLifeHydroPhotoSynthesisPlus: [ 0.6, ml], bioagFul-Power: [ 5, ml] Thursday 18 Aug 2022 GA3Q 48:V:6:6 - Even Weight - Fertigation: amt: [1300, ml], MammothMicrobesMammoth-P: [ 0.6, ml], ful-power: [ 5, ml] Friday 11198 Aug 2022 # GA3Q 49:V:6:7 - Still what looks like N2 Deficiency . . . big yellow swathes of color from leaf edge towards veins # Week’s End 2022-08-19T10:52:08-0500: PlantHeight: AC3Q-4: height: [ 9, in] AC3Q-7: height: [ 8, in] GGTTempAvg: [ 77, F] GGTRHAvg: [ 73.3, RH] GGTVPDAvg: [ 0.85, kPa] GGTLightDistanceCanopy: [ 20.5, in] GGTLightIntensityCanopy: [ 737, µMol/s2/m2] GGTLight ___
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Yeah.... Big buds.. Nope, ....Yeah Big Buds......... Nope
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Hello growers and tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 There has been a couple changes this week!! First there was a big defoliation done, I cleaned the bottom of the plant. All the growth that wouldn't amount to anything because the light doesn't penetrate that low. Also took off the biggest fan leaves to give more light penetration. Then finally switched to 12/12.. Just 36 hours after the defoliation she looked fuller than before. Leaves pointing up and out. By how she's doing I'm sure she'll stretch a good bit these next few weeks. Great reaction to the defoliation. I'm still watering every other day, After the defoliation I watered with only Enzymes 2ml/L to clean the roots a bit then started with the nutrientes again. I dropped the amount of grow nutrients from 3ml/L to 1ml/L and started adding bloom nutrientes 2ml/L for now. I'll slowly be upping the bloom nutrientes and after week 2 I'll no longer add grow nutrients. That's it for this week. Stay tuned to see how she flowers. Stay safe!
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@Lushgaia
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I’ve watered them plain water for the entire grow.
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Hey guys, I did some LST with some copper dreads. I like Rubber tie tubes more but my brances are to small for that. A day later i gave them some water with enzymen ph 5.8-6 and yesterday i gave them nutrients and sprayed them with CANNA CURE. I decided to build a roof for my plants haha, i can't help myself giving them the best conditions i can give them for a outside grow. Bought some 20L pots and some garden dreads. Sadly it is still to cold in the night so i can't repot them and keep them outside 24/7. I'm not really sure if i like the way i LST them because it takes a lot of time to recover and grow but like i said i like to do different things everytime. Normaly you should LST them when you got more brances or just bend the main cola. The way i did it cost many leafs while not having much, so you take away lots of energy. By accident a brance from the plant in the middle(look at pictures) got cut off but i really didn't mind because i was planning to keep four plants instead of five :) ps, made the pictures at 10pm so the leaves are down a bit, i might make some new ones when they are happy in the sun therefore they are lifted more. They still get a few hours of sun every day when i put them outside and therefore they still grow slowly, it will take some time. I hope you enjoyed. Update: Made a new picture at daylight under the roof. Putted the plant I don't want to keep in the bigger pot and will keep her outside to see if she can manage through the night temperatures. If i don't see anything i don't like, keep growing in the comming week, i might put all my plants outside permanent.
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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@SpartacaZ
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💯💯💯💯 DIVINESEEDS best auto!!!!!!
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@420keef
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I used a macro lens from a fish eye kit you can buy for any phone to make that macro video, i highly recommend them it’s so easy to see when i can harvest , these are also very cheap but you do need a steady hand haha. I smoked some smaller buds about a week after harvest & it already tastes amazing almost like a reaalllyy sweet banana haha & the burn is good also i was suprised it was smokeable so fast. Fat banana is one of my favourite strains from now on! I also had 1 Sour Diesel in the tent but i’m still curing that one
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👉Alrighty Then👈 So we are at DAY 49 of Flowering with the Sugar Larry 👈 And she's doing fantastic 👍 😀 decided to showcase pheno #2 , definitely has different traits then #1 very interesting 😀 thoe both are killing it 👈 Except for some slight watering , ive been doing some defolation as well as some LST manipulation to pull branches to the side 👌 👉I had to Top her during the middle of 4th week 👍 Happy Growing 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friends for the great support over the years 🙏 Happy Growing
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Veg Week 3 The Plants DAY 22 - Transplanted T.O.5. Not Root Bound, but definitely could see the bright white roots all around the container. The plant started stretching almost immediately. So cool to see plants move. DAY 26 - Finished Transplanting for this week-- T.O. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 13 to ~1 gallon pots. Watering Starting watering every day toward the end of the week (Day 26). Days are starting to get warmer. Growing in fabric pots in Southern California typically requires daily watering starting in June. I've learned through the years that the plant just sucks up the water and boosts in size. The more water you can give it without rotting the roots - the bigger the plant. There are still differences in strains - some plants just like to get dry before the next drenching. Couple more weeks until the June solstice (June 20). Nutrients Building up the arsenal in my cupboard--Bud Candy + Overdrive from AN, Kelp Meal from Down To Earth. I usually don't add too much stuff because the soil is fairly loaded from the bag.
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Seguimos haciendo circular agua para que agoten los nutrientes las plantas y asi poder tener una buena experiencia de
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@IQuSX
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Hi, topman! Yesterday we had defoliation big leafs, also was make regulation to stem of plant to the same high how its head. We have about two same weeks for change light of time on 12/12 for Part-Bloom. We are going to growing big place! You’ll check and looking at this report! See you, my dear topman!