Hello Diary. The first week of vegetation is behind me and for now all the plants are growing nicely on my little farm. I put the Fat Banana in the middle between the two Haze Berrys, I'll see how it fits her there. I started adding BioBizz on schedule for the first week of vegetation and p.H. I regulate with Plagron’s Lemon Kick. The temperature and humidity are satisfactory, so I no longer used a humidifier. Here's how the week went. 25/09/2020 - Day 1. Photography. Fat Banana is officially 1. day old. I mean by the first day when the plant gets the other two leaves. Then it is no longer sprout. Fat Banana - Day 1. - 5.5 cm Temp / Humidity on the farm - 25.8 degrees and 52% humidity. 26/09/2020 - Day 2. Watering. First feeding. I regulated p.H. at 6.1 and added BioBizz's Root-Juice - 4ml / L, Bio-Heaven 2ml / L and Acti-Vera 2ml / L. Each plant received a liter of water. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.9 degrees and 45% humidity. 29/09/2020 - Day 5. Watering. p.H. is regulated to 6.3 and I added BioBizz on a schedule for the first week. Like three days earlier. This time I watered with 1.5 lit. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.2 degrees and 45% humidity. 01/10/2020 - Day 7. Photography. The first week is officially behind us. Fat Banana is progressing nicely, although it lags a bit behind Haze Berry's roommate, but otherwise everything is cool. Fat Banana - 10 cm - Day 7. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.8 degrees and 50% humidity. What to say at the end of the first week, I am pleased with how the plants are progressing and I will try to please them as best I can. See you next week.

This week I pruned and defoliated heavy. Removed every fan leaf and removed everything before the scrog. I didn't get as horizontal as I would have liked but I'm hopeful I won't burn tops bcuz I'm close, lucky I have the light rail moving the light atotal of 3 feet back and forth allowing me to use more intense like but in spurts. Also the co2 bag and co2 bucket really seem to be helping. Topdressed with endgame and loaded up with basilus, activated em1, orca, great white, king crab, mammoth p, ohn, yucca, alow flakes, count powder, root wise poder and enzymes. Also weekly to every other week I make compost tea from boogie brew. All my water is treated with drops of balance and I also collect and use rainwater. I have an irrometer and run from 10 to 15 kps

Hi everyone😍👽 We’ve reached week seven of flowering. This project is a genetic test made from OG Kush × Cakes n Cream, using the STS technique. I decided to name it OG Cream. This is my first time trying something like this, and honestly, I’m pretty happy with the results so far for a first run. Now I’m just waiting to finish it up and polish things a bit more. Thanks a lot for your feedback and for taking the time to leave comments — really appreciate it!🔥👽😍 "farah4weed"

I mean this genetics it's excellent ... if I would grow zombie kush again ... good job ripper seed ... she fought and was very strong against the plagues after a beginning outdoors ... she fought against the white fly. worms .. red spider and other insects ... and deserves your recognition ... it will not be the most beautiful plant with its leaves impeccable ... but she is a champion ... thank you ripper seed .. .

Week 8 (17-3 to 23-3) 17-3 Temps: 17.4 to 21.9 degrees Humidity: 60% to 72% 18-3 Temps: 17.5 to 22.2 degrees Humidity: 54% to 65% 19-3 Temps: 17.9 to 22.4 degrees Humidity: 52% to 61% Watering: Both 500 ml. EC: 0.4 Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.4 Defoliated both plants and attached some shoots to the rack. She got really big fan leaves! I also supercropped some branches. 20-3 Temps: 18.2 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 59% to 69% 21-3 Temps: 18.5 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 57% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. 22-3 Temps: 19.4 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 55% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. Set the strength of the light to 50% 23-3 Temps: 19.8 to 24.8 degrees Humidity: 58% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. As you can see, instead of removing the leaves, i tucked down all the leaves to open up the canopy. I will see if i like this method as its the first time i try this. I also attached some more shoots to the rack, its looking nicely spread out now :) The #2 makes my fingers very sticky and smells really strong! I love it!

First grow, if you have any advice or feedback to give me go ahead :). All conditions of the plant will be what the plant is currently at in week 3. I tried to keep it as organic as possible and only cut one of the lower leafs to try to get a clone going.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Week 9 . Still not flowering I’m so confused because my lambs breath started at the same time and their buds are crazy for two weeks into flower but this baby ? Nada . Hopefully once she starts flowering she can live up to rhe name

Hey everyone 😃. No training was applied this week. I'll do that in the coming week. It was poured twice with 1 liter this week. The tent was cleaned and the humidifier was refilled every day. The ambient values ​​are in the optimal range and the setup has been checked 👍. I wish you a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy and let it grow 👍🍀🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at https://www.barneysfarm.com/blue-cheese-34 Type: Blue Cheese ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry X Original Cheese 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

All flowering now starting to really take off the blue dream is flying they all have stayed short bit hoplyy the stetch will give a bit the gorilla melon is in its own tent now to continue veg to fill a 3x3

Hello everyone hope you staying cool Cause the weather is over 100 degree and everything is drying and dying. We really need some rain! Anyone with the heat wave I trying keep this gals water up. The biggest one drink water like no tomorrow, well both of them. I give them a tea liquid compost 3.11.11 of organic fertilizers. Just to keep up with the flowering stages she using up a lot nutritions and I’m glad that I was on top of my game with these outdoors grow. Not bad for novice first timer. My family love them. I’m keep in the sun as thst will help with resins production and the bees are doing a fine job pollen them.

Ne schöne pflanze

everything looking good so far, plants are quite healthy check www.sr-organics.com and get a 10% discount on this great 5in1 fertilizer with "UNKRAUT10"

June 13th - feeding PurpsBerry, Honduras x Panama, LSD and Panama Red this afternoon. There will be pictures. Dinner posted above. 5 gal / 4 plants as needed. NOPE, SOIL IS TOO MOIST... holding off for a day, wait and see ! (And it rained all nite !) - feeding Congo #3 x Bangi Haze and Russian Tzar Bomba tomorrow ( w/ Purple Dawn ) fingers-crossed - this coming week will see the tops of these plants, pulled downward to the ground, creating a rounded Bush. Kind of aiming the plants Northward angling past 45 degrees, it will invite the side-branches to become Colas. Thats the Plan for these 4 now that they are starting to thrive in the conditions June 14 - fed Congo #3 x Bangi Haze and Russian Tzar Bomba 1.5 gal/ea (Purple Dawn as well) ahead of the coming heat wave this week. - removed most of the key Fan Leaves

56 days of flowering completed. Buds seem 1/2 weeks behind, unfortunately my growroom is not equipped with reflective walls and the light is not optimized

This strain is very heterozygous. 4 seeds were started. The 4 phenos were very different. I saved 2 of those phenos for my arsenal, which is quite exceptionnal. I ususally save just one pheno from a strain. The Pheno #1 was mainly sativa (75%). Long branches. Lots of fluffy buds. The more resistant to mold, but it has to be with the fluffiness. The taste was cheesy and spicy, which has nothing to see with the 3 other phenos. Not a single ressemblance with ak-47 parents as well. It shares the musky undertones of the strain, but nothing else. That pheno is gone. Not enough potential. Terpene profile was deceiving, just as the cannabinoid content. The Pheno #2 has more indica in it (45% indica). robust and tall plant with dense heavy buds. No mold resistance at all. Biggest producer. The taste was earthy and musky with hints of wood. That pheno is gone. Not enough potential. The Pheno #3 is my favorite one. It reminded me of the good old Ak-47, with her flowery/sweet/skunky smell and taste. Pure nostalgia! Tall and quite robust plant with huge fluffy buds coated with trichomes. She grows pretty similar to Lemon Skunk if you know the reference. Great producer of top quality buds. So sticky! In my top 3 sativa for 2 years. The aroma is very close to the old school Ak-47: sweet, flowery and skunky. It tastes like sweet lemon on the inhale, with a sharp touch of spicy lavender and earth on the exhale. IMO, that is the pheno we want to save from that heterozygous strain. Backcrossing this one would be a very good idea. The Pheno #4 is just as interesting as my favorite #3. The only issue with this one is about mold resistance. Crazy compact and heavy budst! One of the most productive I’ve ever seen too. More traits of the Ak-47 in the aromatic profile, but nothing like the #3. On the structure side, we can immediately recognize the sturdy and bushy structure of Ak-47. THC content is very high too. I suspect the CBD content to be high as well. The effect is a mood elevation, with good focus and a deep body relaxation; a bit similar to what White widow does. The aroma is earthy and pungent. Very skunky and musky. It tastes very sweet and earthy on the inhale, with hints of skunk on the exhale. That pheno #4 expresses the best traits of the Ak-47 in its structure, while pheno #3 kept the aromatic profile.

i kind a always wanted to grow my own CDB at home and recherche the potencial of them wen compared with the ones on the legal market and wen RQS approach me with the possibility to grow they're F1 genetics i saw there an excellent opportunity to try it out, thank you RQS for that and for it all you guys were great on the mail delivery, much respect <3 <3 <3 now lets make magic together and travel true the cosmos like never before <3 <3 <3 To start nothing to fancy m seed in to water and in solo 24 hours she was out and ready to go in to a soil plug, now she rests in a dome for a few days and from there wen i see some roots i will transplant to a tiny pot ere she will rest for a week or so . i am so verry exited for these one you guys have no idea hihihihi <3 <3 <3 and the root came in abut 48 h so in to the soil she went and as always use fungus nature help and trow a gram or so of myco in there, i fell this helps my roots explode and with them so do my girls <3 <3 <3 wen watering nothing too fancy, for now just regulator and root booster , i do not think they need food the first week or so but this is just my humble opinion <3 <3 <3 As always thank you all for stopping by and for supporting me on this journey, i am super passion about growing and fell blessed to have you all with me on this new journey <3 <3 <3 Genetics - RQS COSMOS F1 Ligth - LUMATEK ZEUS 465 COMPACT PRO 
Food - APTUS HOLLAND 
 
All info and full product details can be find in can find @ https://www.royalqueenseeds.com 

https://aptus-holland.com/
 
https://autopot.co.uk/ 

https://lumatek-lighting.com/ <3 <3 <3 Growers love to you all <3 <3 <3

D50/F06 - 20/05/23 - Nothing to report D51/F07 - 21/05/23 - Added water and nutes EC=1.1 pH=5.7 D52/F08 - 22/05/23 - Nothing to report D53/F09 - 23/05/23 - Added water. EC=1.1 pH=6.4 D54/F10 - 24/05/23 - Added water and nutes EC=1.0 pH=6.3 D55/F11 - 25/05/23 - Start the week out. I set up a system to feeding Nora during my stay out (I'll take some picture about...) D56/F12 - 26/05/23 - I leave today, 1 week away

Glass of water till they cracked after 24 hours then boop into soil.