Im kinda lazy to upload week by week 😅

Turned the Autopots on, Papaya had a slight issue due being popped two days later she ain’t drinking as Much as the others, adjusted the pH in the system by getting the water out the trays, adjusting the Reservoir and opening the valve again. Pics from 18.9. Will keep ya updated. 21.09 they are bushin up nicely time to get them a fresh fade - did a pretty hard defoliation won’t be doing another until it’s before flower, will add a trellis net in about 2 weeks

Quebec Blast is growing good, she is starting to develop flowers, and stretching. She is the shorter one in the room. I am figuring a stocky frosty plant at end. 🤞 I get there with no major issues. A solution change of a gallon every 4 to 5 days has been my current schedule. Future grows I wanna try to keep roots higher up through pruning to allow more solution for better stability, and longer between changes. She is in a New Level Hydro bucket, under a Spider Farmer SE5000 light at 80 percent. Thank you Spider Farmer, New Level Hydro, and Quebec Seeds. 🤜🤛❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g SE5000 https://amzn.to/3qFpAML Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au Coupon Code: saveurcash Www.newlevelhydro.com Www.hygrozyme.com

First I need to thank Mrs_Larimar for helping me through this process!! Thank you!!!😅 The good girl was rinsed with 20 liters of tap water and surrounded with approx. 1.5 - 2 liters of fresh soil in a larger pot. After strong concerns about whether it will be something with the good, one day later I have already enjoyed 6cm of height gain and much stronger fragrances. Now, on the third day after the action, she looks more fresh again and her scent....... * Awwwww * No nutrients or other aids have been added. Only when the weight is right, it will be poured again. Yesterday one day after rinsing I removed the 2 lowest fan leaves as it seemed to me from stress of the plant as I could do that. It does not seem to bother her. Wish me good luck! xD

The lamp finally arrived, installed it, and now I’m making the plants work. Total cost came to $ 314 including shipping and taxes — Kingbrite P55 320W. Ordered from Alibaba. At least I’m trying — the new lamp runs much cooler and can’t heat things up outdoors at all, so I’m pushing hard to hit my 30°C target to get CO₂ working at full efficiency. PPFD is no longer an issue, completely covered now. Temperature is the main battle, had to crank the light to 100%. The results are obvious — leaves are praying, so everything is running at the limit. Also added EOD-FR for 6 minutes after the main light turns off. The plants have started gaining size — #4 is in the lead, #3 isn’t stretching upward at all. Who would’ve thought at the start… should’ve set up a betting pool. Overall growth isn’t explosive, more steady and controlled. Switched the feed to flowering. Keeping nitrogen at 160 ppm for a bit longer, then dropping it to 100–120 ppm in week 3 of flower. Increased potassium to 160 ppm and phosphorus to 50 ppm. pH situation is a bit weird — plant #6 has 5.1 in the runoff and slightly elevated EC, while #3 and #4 are already at 7.1 and 7.3, but EC is lower than input and no issues — weird stuff. By the way, the supplemental lighting arrived today, going to install it. Got blue to try and reduce stretch after the flip, but looks like it won’t be needed this run. Also a new FR bar, 90 cm instead of two short ones, plus two white+red bars for undercanopy lighting to fight popcorn buds. Also custom-made from Alibaba.

Welcome to week 8 of flower for this wild project! We will be looking to check trichomes over the coming days to see how things are coming along. I know for sure PGC#2 will be ready far before the rest but we will check all of them none the less. As we reach the race for the finish line Im very pleased with what i've accomplished with these plants this grow! Huge shout outs go to @MarsHydroLED as well as @Seedsman for their outstanding gear and genetics to work with! HUGE shout out goes to all my followers and people who stop in a like! Keep giving inspiration to grow! -The Projexx Day#50F Pictures N/A. Ladies are starting to slow down on new pistol growth and focusing on ripening up. Day#51F Watered ladies 6L each at 160PPM. We've began flushing them. Day#52F PGC#1 leaves starting to turn quite purple, Banana Krumble still has a while to go. Checking trichomes tomorrow. Day#53F Pictures N/A. Watered ladies 6L each at 160PPM. PGC#1 trichomes are doing well mostly cloudy little amber, Banana Krumble still has lots of time to go and PGC#2 is almost ready displaying lots of amber and lots of milky trichomes gonna give her a few more days. Day#54F Pictures N/A. Banana Krumble still thickening up , PGC#2 is looking quite ready and PGC#1 is far behind her sister! Day#55F Harvested PGC#2. Watered ladies 6L at 160PPM. PGC#1 is turning more purple by the day quite the lovely show! Day#56F Pictures N/A. Banana Krumble still thickening up but displaying more orange pistols , she's gonna be a 70 - 77 day girl but I'll get big rewards! PGC#1 ripening up daily! Recap: Over all things went super well this week! We harvested the smallest plant in the room and ended up with almost 500G of wet weight roughly 6-7 ounces off that plant dry, she smells very very gassy with light hints of candy and fruit very pleasing combination to say the least. We are coming up on the finish line quickly for this project Im excited to see what the other plants will yield!

Week 6 Day 7 Flower They are all very frosty now, smell is pungent and hairs are turning brown but they still have a lot of potential for more weight yet and the trichs are still clear. I reckon I'm going to run week 7 as normal then run week 8 with shogun dragon force/sumo active and flush with water week 9 and 10. Anyone know if it's ok to run terpinator alongside dragon force and sumo active in last week before final water flush? The npk of terpinator is only 0-0-4 what's your thoughts @shogun your advice is always gold. Weird and wonderful development in the garden, if you look at the pics you will notice that one of the girls has thrown out buds in the centre of it's leaves. I've seen pictures of this before but it's a first in my garden and strange considering it's only one plant yet all are cuts from the same mother grown in the same system feeding from the same reservoir and I've grown from this mother before also but never seen this. Any knowledge regarding this would be appreciated. That pretty much covers week 6, hope you all have a blessed remainder to the week. Peace and love Fire_farmer 🔥👨‍🌾

OMG! (Oh My Growers) what an adventure we have here! Looks like in a few weeks we'll be deep in a zenzational jungle! 😍 They're definitely comfortable, I can notice the roots and mycorrhiza combo just taking over the soil. Leaves are branching out and getting think which is great to see, not as thick as I'd expected though. Next week they'll be transplanted to final 11L fabric pots. Happy Growing!

Since the humidity stayed at a very high level, it was only a matter of time...HORROR!😱 I FOUND BUD-ROT! 😭 On day 73 (=Flowering Day 49) I spotted a white fuzz on my ZHEETOS #2 plant from BIG BUDDHA SEEDS. I took it out and inspected her closer and found budrot on the main stem and in the main bud. I immediately cut off the infected parts and tried to save the rest of the plant. (see first video above) Since I do NOT want to spray my plants with any chemicals, because they are my medicine, I resort to UV-C light. I use the CLEANLIGHT HOBBY UNIT (a UV-C plant protection light from the Netherlands, that kills bacteria, viruses and fungi) and shine the UV-C light on all my plants and the soil-surface in the pots (see second video above). This will kill all the remaining spores of bud-rot (which are a kind of fungus) in my closet and stop it from further spreading to my other plants. I also immediately stop giving any BIO NOVA nutrients from this moment on, although the plants LOVE THEM. But I have to do this in order to flush the plants before harvesting them. I cannot risk and wait until the plants are fully matured, I have to do an emergency flush and harvest as soon as possible, so I dont loose the rest of my medicine to bud-rot. Hold your thumbs that I can save them for a week longer...👍

12/02/2024 13/02/2024 MS is growing funny 😁 TF has exactly the same feed mls. Shes looked forever hungry 14/02/2024 Lite Defoll. Midday. TF has never looked the healthiest with the first time using HydroSol + H202 water soluble feed. I think i have the ratio/some sroted to where I've seen improvements. First improvements i have seen are: 1. NO Nutritional burn or Lockout! (non-salt based). P.s ignore the over salas 12% HP at the start (no idea what i was thinking). Sometimes being ahead; means i am a being with a head that makes human errors. Oh, the joys of plant-discovery. Sorry side tracked lol 2. Quicker Absorbing witb water soluble food. As long as she's hydrated she's eating! 3. No idea yet Have a ball!! Listening to this relaxing and i started thibking about Spirituality and how its included in all faiths. But if say "Jesus Christ is a façade and all religions are based on astrological events painted with fictional characters to repent the Christological doctrine to "date" the past. 21 Ways Archaeologists Date Ancient Artifacts are mostly flawed because they only have the "present" to date decay from. They miss the mark and the professionals deliberately push the religious artifacts to match up to the hollyword. So who's to say what "Date & Time" we are currently living in! In reality; we can only measure and date time from the the last natural apocalypses or near misses, dor we are the surviours from such events.. Look round at real history! What mordern day academics just brushed under the rug with some made up theories of what they like us to believe happened. Even they are in a Dilemmas (government's) have the knowledge of these such events. SpaceX and Nasa are all doomsday preppers! As for India going to the moon 🌙 seriously 😐 who's buying this stuff? I've let go so much that the whole world is my own intention and floods my brain with endorphins of being the observer. The reason we are all "consciousnesses" and in sudden alert of awareness of this world and being alive is because we are in the end time again! We have all woken up to everything because the omens of the apocalypse alerts and kicks in certain parts of the DNA to force memories to the soul like "hey you need to remember this and get somewhere safe" 17/02/2025 Vast improvements 18/02/2025 Defolled to make way for fast growth

Hey guys :-) She is growing great and will be ready for the flowering tent in the coming days :-) A few cuttings are taken beforehand. Was poured 2 times with 1 l each. I'm looking forward to the start of flowering :-) have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 https://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/affiliate/MadeInGermany_PassionGrower 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/choco-cheesecake/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Use the coupon code: madeingermany for 10% on all Amsterdam Genetics seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

Finally it’s harvest time!! I will be drying in a 55% humidity level!

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Iniziò fioritura,.oggi 2 agosto, secondo giorno a 12 ore...dopo aver sofferto anche lei 3 mesi dentro AD un vaso da un litro... adesso con questo vaso da 11 dovrei riuscire a portarla. A maturazione,,,💪😂

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Jour84 arrosage avec 2 litres d'eau ph6.3 Jour86 arrosage avec 2. 5litres d'eau ph6.3 Jour89 arrosage avec 2 litres d'eau ph6.3 LE MEILLEUR MOMENT POUR RINCER SON CANNABIS Le rinçage commence en général deux semaines avant la récolte. Si le plant a une période de floraison de huit semaines, le rinçage doit commencer six semaines après le début de la période de floraison. Il est préférable de regarder de près les trichomes sur le plant pour déterminer quand votre cannabis est prêt à être récolter. Si les petits trichomes commencent juste à passer d’une couleur transparente à une teinte laiteuse et blanche, c’est une bonne indication que les plants peuvent commencer à être rincés. Il faut s’arranger pour que la majorité des trichomes aient changé vers la couleur désirée pour la récolte après deux semaines – ça devient plus facile à faire avec l’expérience, alors accrochez-vous ! Le rinçage peut également être un bon moyen de remettre à zéro la terre quand un plant est toujours en phase de croissance végétative. Parfois, un cultivateur suralimente par accident son cannabis, ce qui provoque un changement de couleur et un flétrissement du bout des feuilles. Ceci est appelé une « brûlure par nutriments ». Rincer la terre peut éliminer les nutriments excédentaires, ce qui aide à résoudre le problème. Cependant, c’est une mesure drastique à ce stade de la culture, alors assurez-vous que le problème soit bien une brûlure par nutriments et non quelque chose d’autre. Le rinçage ne concerne pas que le moment de la récolte. Cette technique peut aussi être mise en place durant la phase de croissance afin de débarrasser le sol des nutriments. Bien évidemment, les nutriments permettent à votre plante de rester en bonne santé et vous assurent des rendements maximaux, mais une trop grande quantité peut causer une accumulation et un état statique durant lequel la plante ne peut plus y accéder. Le blocage des nutriments peut être causé par une accumulation saline ou des niveaux de pH incorrects. Ces deux causes peuvent être résolues par un rinçage de votre plante à l’eau claire. Les fluides viendront pousser les nutriments en dehors du substrat et le débarrasseront de l’accumulation, permettant ainsi aux racines de pouvoir accéder à nouveau aux nutriments. EMPÊCHER LE BLOCAGE D'ABSORPTION DES NUTRIMENTS AVANT QU’IL NE POSE PROBLÈME Au mieux, le blocage des nutriments peut être un problème, au pire, il peut être un vrai désastre. Comme le dit l’adage, il vaut mieux prévenir que guérir. Il vaut mieux prendre de l’avant pour empêcher le blocage des nutriments plutôt que de s’y atteler lorsque c’est trop tard. Empêcher le blocage des nutriments peut se faire par le biais d’un rinçage de routine. En rinçant vos plantes une fois avant la floraison et une fois au milieu de cette dernière, vous minimiserez l’accumulation de nutriments. LES ENZYMES À LA RESCOUSSE Après le rinçage pour contrer l’accumulation ou le blocage des nutriments, vous remarquerez peut-être que vos plantes ont une apparence vert foncé, c’est le signe d’un excès de nutriments. Dans ce cas, certains cultivateurs choisissent d’ajouter une formule riche en enzymes à leur substrat. Au cas où vous auriez oublié vos cours de biologie, les enzymes sont des protéines qui catalysent les réactions. Elles aident à rincer le substrat en décomposant l’amidon, les glucides et les nutriments. Il existe sur le marché toute une variété de produits qui contiennent des formules d’enzymes très efficaces. Si l’eau ne suffit pas à vos plantes, ces petites protéines ne feront qu’une bouchée de l’accumulation de nutriments ! COMMENT BIEN RINCER SON CANNABIS Rincer votre plant de cannabis est un processus simple. À chaque fois que vous apporteriez normalement des nutriments, vous rincez à la place. De l’eau du robinet non traitée est tout ce dont vous avez besoin pour rincer, assurez-vous juste que son pH est sans danger pour le cannabis. La plupart de l’eau de puits a un pH sain et ne nécessite pas de traitement, mais s’il est nécessaire de traiter l’eau de rinçage pour avoir un pH adapté, faites-le. Les ajustements du pH seront donc la seule chose à considérer. Inonder la terre avec autant d’eau fraîche qu’elle puisse contenir. Laissez l’eau durant quelques minutes pour qu’elle puisse absorber les nutriments, puis inondez la terre encore pour rincer les nutriments loin du plant. Si vous cultivez en intérieur dans des pots, notez la couleur de l’eau qui s’échappe du fond des pots. Elle sera tâchée et aura une couleur sale. C’est à cette étape qu’un appareil de mesure des TDS (Total des Solides Dissous) est utile. Si vous récupérez et mesurez le TDS de l’eau « évacuée », elle devrait avoir un taux de 1300ppm, ce qui est assez élevé. Il est important de rincer le plant jusqu’à ce que total baisse à un niveau de 50ppm, ou du moins qu’il s’approche du TDS de l’eau fraîche que vous utilisez pour rincer le plant. La couleur de l’eau d’évacuation va s’éclaircir et apparaîtra plus propre. Vous devez tirer autant que possible de minéraux dissous du plant. Comment et Quand Rincer les Plants de Cannabis Rincer les plants de cannabis avant la récolte peut faire la différence entre les meilleurs têtes ou la plus rude pour la gorge. Cette petite tâche est simple et facile à faire. Ajoutez juste de l’eau ! Attention car le moment du rinçage joue un rôle critique. Le b.a.-ba du rinçage de ses plants de cannabis. Sommaire: 1. Qu’est-ce que le rinçage ? 2. Le meilleur moment pour rincer son cannabis 3. Empêcher le blocage d'absorption des nutriments avant qu’il ne pose problème 4. Les enzymes à la rescousse 5. Comment bien rincer son cannabis 6. Comment rincer ses plantes en hydroponie 7. Les résultats du rinçage de son cannabis 8. Quand éviter de rincer son cannabis Vous avez enfin fini vos cultures et vous vous retrouvez avec un magnifique plant couvert de super têtes, maintenant sèches, vous avez fait le curing et vous êtes prêt à fumer – et pourtant quelque chose ne va pas. La weed semble ne pas vouloir se consumer et quand vous tirez une bouffée, c’est comme si on vous avait donné un coup de poing dans les poumons et vous toussez en craignant pour votre vie ! Le goût est rude et décevant. Si c’est une situation que vous avez vécue, il y a des chances pour que vos plants n’aient pas été rincés correctement avant la récolte. Cette fumée bien loin d’être agréable est provoquée par la présence dans le plant des nutriments et minéraux utilisés lors de la culture, ce qui altère la façon dont le plant se consume. Rincer le plant élimine ces nutriments restants, ce qui améliore la qualité des sensations. Heureusement, le rinçage des plants de cannabis se fait facilement et sans effort, et cela vous permet de produire des têtes douces et délicieuses en un rien de temps. ARTICLE LIÉ Comment Utiliser les Nutriments pour Cannabis QU’EST-CE QUE LE RINÇAGE ? L’acte de rincer un plant implique d’utiliser de l’eau pour éliminer tout nutriment présent dans la terre. Une grande quantité d’eau est passée à travers la terre et drainée sur une base régulière. Tous les minéraux et nutriments présents dans la terre sont rincés avec le temps avec l’eau, ce qui laisse une terre propre. Mais pourquoi vouloir éliminer tous les minéraux de la terre ? N’est-ce pas mauvais pour la récolte ? En fait, cela aide à la récolte de manière significative. Quand les nutriments sont éliminés de la terre, ceci force le plant de cannabis à utiliser tous les nutriments toujours présents dans le plant. C’est comme pour le corps humain. Quand on consomme beaucoup d’aliments, ce que nous n’utilisons pas est transformé en graisses. Dans les situations extrêmes où la nourriture est rare, le corps s’appuie sur cette graisse stockée pour tirer de l’énergie. Comme rincer force le cannabis à utiliser tous les nutriments restants dans le plant, aucun ne devrait rester et altérer les têtes récoltées. Cependant, si vous le faites trop tôt, cela peut nuire à la santé du plant, le moment est donc clé. LE MEILLEUR MOMENT POUR RINCER SON CANNABIS Le rinçage commence en général deux semaines avant la récolte. Si le plant a une période de floraison de huit semaines, le rinçage doit commencer six semaines après le début de la période de floraison. Il est préférable de regarder de près les trichomes sur le plant pour déterminer quand votre cannabis est prêt à être récolter. Si les petits trichomes commencent juste à passer d’une couleur transparente à une teinte laiteuse et blanche, c’est une bonne indication que les plants peuvent commencer à être rincés. Il faut s’arranger pour que la majorité des trichomes aient changé vers la couleur désirée pour la récolte après deux semaines – ça devient plus facile à faire avec l’expérience, alors accrochez-vous ! Le rinçage peut également être un bon moyen de remettre à zéro la terre quand un plant est toujours en phase de croissance végétative. Parfois, un cultivateur suralimente par accident son cannabis, ce qui provoque un changement de couleur et un flétrissement du bout des feuilles. Ceci est appelé une « brûlure par nutriments ». Rincer la terre peut éliminer les nutriments excédentaires, ce qui aide à résoudre le problème. Cependant, c’est une mesure drastique à ce stade de la culture, alors assurez-vous que le problème soit bien une brûlure par nutriments et non quelque chose d’autre. Flushing Le rinçage ne concerne pas que le moment de la récolte. Cette technique peut aussi être mise en place durant la phase de croissance afin de débarrasser le sol des nutriments. Bien évidemment, les nutriments permettent à votre plante de rester en bonne santé et vous assurent des rendements maximaux, mais une trop grande quantité peut causer une accumulation et un état statique durant lequel la plante ne peut plus y accéder. Le blocage des nutriments peut être causé par une accumulation saline ou des niveaux de pH incorrects. Ces deux causes peuvent être résolues par un rinçage de votre plante à l’eau claire. Les fluides viendront pousser les nutriments en dehors du substrat et le débarrasseront de l’accumulation, permettant ainsi aux racines de pouvoir accéder à nouveau aux nutriments. EMPÊCHER LE BLOCAGE D'ABSORPTION DES NUTRIMENTS AVANT QU’IL NE POSE PROBLÈME Au mieux, le blocage des nutriments peut être un problème, au pire, il peut être un vrai désastre. Comme le dit l’adage, il vaut mieux prévenir que guérir. Il vaut mieux prendre de l’avant pour empêcher le blocage des nutriments plutôt que de s’y atteler lorsque c’est trop tard. Empêcher le blocage des nutriments peut se faire par le biais d’un rinçage de routine. En rinçant vos plantes une fois avant la floraison et une fois au milieu de cette dernière, vous minimiserez l’accumulation de nutriments. LES ENZYMES À LA RESCOUSSE Après le rinçage pour contrer l’accumulation ou le blocage des nutriments, vous remarquerez peut-être que vos plantes ont une apparence vert foncé, c’est le signe d’un excès de nutriments. Dans ce cas, certains cultivateurs choisissent d’ajouter une formule riche en enzymes à leur substrat. Au cas où vous auriez oublié vos cours de biologie, les enzymes sont des protéines qui catalysent les réactions. Elles aident à rincer le substrat en décomposant l’amidon, les glucides et les nutriments. Il existe sur le marché toute une variété de produits qui contiennent des formules d’enzymes très efficaces. Si l’eau ne suffit pas à vos plantes, ces petites protéines ne feront qu’une bouchée de l’accumulation de nutriments ! Comment et Quand Rincer les Plants de Cannabis COMMENT BIEN RINCER SON CANNABIS Rincer votre plant de cannabis est un processus simple. À chaque fois que vous apporteriez normalement des nutriments, vous rincez à la place. De l’eau du robinet non traitée est tout ce dont vous avez besoin pour rincer, assurez-vous juste que son pH est sans danger pour le cannabis. La plupart de l’eau de puits a un pH sain et ne nécessite pas de traitement, mais s’il est nécessaire de traiter l’eau de rinçage pour avoir un pH adapté, faites-le. Les ajustements du pH seront donc la seule chose à considérer. Inonder la terre avec autant d’eau fraîche qu’elle puisse contenir. Laissez l’eau durant quelques minutes pour qu’elle puisse absorber les nutriments, puis inondez la terre encore pour rincer les nutriments loin du plant. Si vous cultivez en intérieur dans des pots, notez la couleur de l’eau qui s’échappe du fond des pots. Elle sera tâchée et aura une couleur sale. C’est à cette étape qu’un appareil de mesure des TDS (Total des Solides Dissous) est utile. Si vous récupérez et mesurez le TDS de l’eau « évacuée », elle devrait avoir un taux de 1300ppm, ce qui est assez élevé. Il est important de rincer le plant jusqu’à ce que total baisse à un niveau de 50ppm, ou du moins qu’il s’approche du TDS de l’eau fraîche que vous utilisez pour rincer le plant. La couleur de l’eau d’évacuation va s’éclaircir et apparaîtra plus propre. Vous devez tirer autant que possible de minéraux dissous du plant. COMMENT RINCER SES PLANTES EN HYDROPONIE Le rinçage des plantes en hydroponie est bien plus simple que de se débarrasser des nutriments en terre. Les cultivateurs en hydroponie pourront simplement drainer leur système et le remplacer par une eau au pH neutre. Le rinçage des plantes en hydroponie est aussi un processus bien plus court. Une fois que la réserve d’eau aura été modifiée, les plantes en hydro n’auront pas accès aux nutriments externes. Pour cette raison, un rinçage de deux jours suffira. LES RÉSULTATS DU RINÇAGE DE SON CANNABIS Après la récolte des têtes, prenez du temps pour bien faire le curing pour atteindre le potentiel le plus élevé. Un affinage correct par curing permet de réduire encore plus le côté rude des têtes, en éliminant des choses comme un excès de chlorophylle. Vous serez étonné de voir la différence que ce petite effort peut avoir sur votre produit. Tout votre travail se sentira dans la première bouffée de cette weed douce comme de la soie, qui caresse la gorge comme du miel. Le plus doux de la nature. Vous pouvez donc améliorer la qualité de votre cannabis en ajoutant juste de l’eau ! QUAND ÉVITER DE RINCER SES PLANTES Le seul moment où nous recommandons d’éviter le rinçage de son cannabis est lorsque l’on travaille avec une terre biologique amendée ou un super soil. Ces substrats ont été développés avec précaution afin d’héberger des micro-organismes bienfaisants tels que des bactéries ou des champignons. Cette délicate biodiversité pourrait être éliminée et endommagée par le rinçage. Une fois de plus, l’absence de rinçage ne devrait pas poser de soucis, car aucun nutriment externe ou synthétique n’aura été ajouté au substrat. À la place, les plantes comptent sur les micro-organismes pour décomposer la matière organique et la livrer aux racines. May the force be with you 💪

Is been raining so didn't need to water , just feed and flush till harvest

Hello! First and foremost.. thanks for stopping by! After many years and dreams of growing I'm finally giving it a go. I will update this "diary" every Sunday with the previous weeks progress. All feedback is welcome as long as it's done in a constructive manner. Please keep in mind this is my first grow and will be learning and making adjustments as I go. I am growing in tent indoors in the Midwest. STRAINS: 7 Super Skunk 1 Tahoe OG Possible HiFi 4g & Slurricane clone EQUIPMENT: 5x5 Vivosun grow tent 1 ViparSpectra P2000 LED (additional LED will be added in 2 weeks.. next payday 🤪) AC Infinty 6 inch Carbon Filter AC infinity cloudline T6 fan 3 gallon smart pots Two 11 inch honeywell "desktop" fans Vivosun Seedling heat mat Seed Sarting station InkBird humidity Controller 8 socket surge protector with built in timer Ducting Metal grating Rope hangers Zip ties Solo Cup Fine mist spray bottle SOIL/NUTRIENTS Fox Farms Light Warrior seedling starter soil Roots Organic Original Soil Distilled water (room temp with Avg PH 6.3) Coconut water 50ml/gallon Roots Organic dry fertilizer lineup January 11th - ordered 20 Super Skunk feminized seeds from ILGM.com. the order process and payment was easy and intuitive. Was updated by email every step of the way. I did not pay the extra $25 for the ability to track my package, however ILGM did email me once product was shipped as well as when product was out for delivery. January 25th- Seeds delivered. Pkg was discreet. I would have like to see some type of pkg that took into account the cold weather, however I was home to pick up pkg so it wouldn't sit out in cold. January 26th- today is the day I attempt my first germination. I decided to germinate 6 seeds using the direct in soil method. Soil I am using for germination is Fox Farms Light Warrior. Watered with distilled water that was at room temperature with an avg PH of 6.2. Germinating in a seed starter tray using a seed heat mat. January 27th - Watered as needed January 28th- First seed sprouted. Germaninated an additional 6 feminized super skunk seeds using same method as above. Watered as needed. Recieved two tahoe OG seedlings from a friend. They are roughly a week ahead of mine. Both seedlings have a little yellowing on leaves. Both seedlings were transplanted into FF light warrior soil. Watered as needed. Placed in tent under ViparSpectra P2000 LED at 25% power 30 inches above. Tent at 71° F 65% Humidity at 18/6 light cycle. January 29th- two additional seeds sprouted. One seed from first batch pushed itself out from soil and tap root was exposed. Gently placed back in soil. (No change since) Second seed sprouted was from second batch germinated. Watered as needed using coconut water at 50ml/gallon. January 30th- Two additional seeds sprouted. Both are from second batch. Watered as needed. Added 10inch fan into grow tent set on low. January 31st- These two as well as sprout from yesterday were transplanted into Solo cups with FF light Warrior soil and moved into tent with same parameters as above except LED was moved to 40% power. Watered as needed. Feb 1st - started germanting 3 more SS seeds. Dug up the 4 seeds that had not germinated and trying a second time. No water for other seedlings today. Feb 2nd- no water Feb 3rd- 1 seedling emerged from the soil!! Watered with coconut water 💧 End of the week thoughts: I believe I watered both the seeds and the sprouts way too much. Backing off water until soil is dry. In the future I would like to try germinating in water and paper towel. I like this idea as I know whether or not the tap root pops... currently I'm left wondering 😔 Questions: At what point are the plants in VEG? Is it as soon as they sprout? Any idea why some leaves on the Tahoe OG are yellow? Some new sprouts are also more like green than others.. thoughts? 18/6 or 24 for veg.. thoughts?

my first auto plant. Hoping it finishes quickly so i can have something to smoke b4 the outdoor crop is ready. Keep fingers crossed it does not just flop into flower right now.

Grüßt euch, liebe Grow-Community! Zur 8. Woche / Blütewoche 5 dieses betreuten Grow-Projekts. Und auch hier wieder am Start nach einem kleineren Delay. Kurze Erklärung: Ich war im Urlaub und hatte in dieser Zeit nicht so den Zugriff auf die Jungs. Daraus resultiert das pure Chaos. Aber jetzt ist Papa ja wieder da und somit weht hier jetzt wieder ein anderer Wind!😁 Also Sachen gepackt und zu einer Spontanvisite vorbeigeschaut….😏 Erster Punkt auf der Agenda: Einen der beiden Strolche losschicken, um destilliertes Wasser für den Luftbefeuchter zu holen. Danach wurden die Kleinen ausgeputzt, sprich das ganze vergilbte Laub entfernt, damit man den Grow euch auch wieder vorzeigen kann – und ich mir ein besseres Bild von der Situation machen kann. Und als alter Glas-halb-leer-Pessimist ist mir natürlich direkt erstmal die Vergilbung an den jungen Blättern der Orange-Diesel-Ladys aufgefallen. Ob diese nun auf die stümperhafte Behandlung des VPDs zurückzuführen ist oder wir hier einfach einen klassischen Mangel haben, lässt sich ohne nähere Analyse (Runoff messen etc.) nicht genau ermitteln. Da ich pauschal erstmal von Zweiterem ausgehe, da speziell die Diesel-Damen deutlich mehr Biomasse aufgebaut haben und damit einen höheren Grundverbrauch haben, bin ich nach dem Besuch erstmal wieder zu mir gegurkt, um etwas von meinem noch übrig gebliebenen Living Soil einzupacken. Da ich in dieser Phase keinen Dünger mehr verabreichen will, weil das zeitlich einfach nicht mehr hinhaut, möchte ich wenigstens noch ein wenig Erde verabreichen, in welcher die Nährstoffe während der Lagerung bereits durch die Mikroorganismen teilweise pflanzenverfügbar gemacht wurden. Das sollte uns noch etwas Puffer verschaffen.😅 Nach Abklingen meines kleinen Rappels haben meine Augen dann aber doch noch einen Lichtblick vernommen… Wir haben hier mal wieder einen Underdog-Moment, liebe Grow-Community!! Die vorher schon etwas abgeschriebene Mephisto’s Wedding hat sich wirklich zu einem Augen- und Terpschmaus entwickelt. Wirklich ein phänomenaler Repräsentant der Elterngenetik. Sie verbindet den Frost sowie die Färbung der Wedding Cake mit funky Chem-Einflüssen, welche sich auch in der Optik wiederfinden. Wirklich sehr spannend!!😍 Hiervon werde ich mich doch gerne mal auf eine Kostprobe einladen lassen... Da trifft es sich doch auch sehr gut, dass sie augenscheinlich als Erste fertig wird. Als Zeichen meiner Anerkennung habe ich den Jungs fix noch einen Flower-Komposttee angesetzt, welchen es dann morgen gibt. Sooo Leute, genug geredet. Long story short: Wir sind wieder on track und bewegen uns mit leichten Schwierigkeiten Richtung Finish!! 💪Bleibt also gespannt. Peace!