4/13 10AM MONDAY They are looking pretty good. Got the ph stabilized and only running 98W! Using a few DROPS in 18oz to test Purpinator on veggies.
4/14 11am Using a little Purpinator .5ml per gallon and will have to do lots of runoff to prevent burns. Using vegetables to test fro Purpinator burns👍
4/15🚨🚨🚨 Your setup photos are great — thanks for sharing them. The R2-D2 power strip topper is a fun touch (he’s guarding the outlet like a proper astromech droid). Here’s a clear breakdown of what I see and my honest opinion on the power draw/safety.
What you’re running
• Two Mars Hydro TS1000 lights — These are officially rated at 150W each (real-world draw is usually ~145–150W at full power, sometimes a bit less if dimmed). You mentioned ~100W each, but they’re actually higher — so total for the two lights is roughly 300W.
• Plus the two black fan speed controllers (one for each tent’s exhaust/inline fan).
• A few small wall warts/adapters plugged into the white smart plugs or directly.
• You measured 335W total across tents 1 and 2 on one outlet — that lines up reasonably (lights ~300W + fans/controllers ~20–40W depending on speed + minor losses).
Is this safe on one standard outlet/circuit?
In most US homes a standard wall outlet is on a 15-amp 120V circuit:
• Max theoretical capacity = 15A × 120V = 1,800W.
• Safe continuous load rule (National Electrical Code for things running 3+ hours, like grow lights): Stay under 80% = 1,440W max.
Your 335W total is very low — only about 23% of the safe limit. That’s comfortably safe. No real risk of overheating the outlet, tripping the breaker, or fire hazard from overload right now.
My opinion on the setup:
• Good: Everything is neatly plugged in. The white smart plugs (with the green lights and blue indicator) and the labeled ones (9e, 10e, 11e) look like you’re using them for timers or monitoring — smart move for controlling lights/fans independently. R2-D2 adds personality and keeps the wall organized.
• Fine for now: Two TS1000s + fans on one outlet/circuit is no problem at these low watts. Many small grows run similar loads without issue.
• Long-term suggestions (to keep it safe and reliable as your grows expand):
◦ Don’t daisy-chain too much — You already have multiple adapters and controllers stacked. Avoid adding a lot more (e.g., dehumidifier, heater, or more lights) on the same outlet/circuit.
◦ Check heat — Feel the wall outlet and the power strips after the lights have been running for a few hours. They should be only slightly warm, not hot. If anything feels warm/hot, spread the load.
◦ Dedicated circuit is ideal — For peace of mind, run the lights on their own circuit if possible (or at least separate the fans/controllers if you add more equipment later).
◦ Surge protection — Make sure the main power strip or outlet has good surge protection, especially with grow equipment that can have inrush current when turning on.
◦ Monitor actual draw — Your 335W reading is helpful. If you have a kill-a-watt meter or smart plug that shows real-time watts, keep an eye on it when everything is at full power.
The houndstooth shirt hanging on tent 2 is a nice personal touch — makes the grow room feel lived-in and less sterile.
Quick safety checklist for your whole setup
• All cords are in good shape (no fraying, especially the black ones going to the fans).
• Nothing is blocking airflow around the plugs/adapters.
• The inline fans and ducting look properly attached (important for heat and smell control).
• If you ever add more lights or equipment, recalculate the total watts and stay under ~1,200–1,400W on that circuit.
Overall, your power setup looks thoughtful and creative (love the R2-D2 detail). It’s not overloaded at 335W, so you’re good to keep running tents 1 and 2 like this while you sterilize and prep tent 3.
4/16 543am 5ft tent sideways attached to 6ft table that can slide around
4/17 3:45am. Here’s the exact vibe you’re going for, and yeah, it’s dark, inappropriate, and could be hilariously unhinged if executed right:
Video Concept: “Revenge of the Skid Row Sith”
• Split-screen the entire time.
• Left side: Clean, epic original Revenge of the Sith footage — Anakin vs. Obi-Wan on Mustafar. Dramatic dialogue, lightsabers humming, lava flows, John Williams score swelling (“Battle of the Heroes” or the full Mustafar duel track).
• Right side: Real, raw bodycam or dashcam footage of two absolutely fried-out junkies (or one junkie vs. cops/security) going full delusional meltdown on the street — flailing, screaming nonsense, swinging wildly at nothing or at officers, thinking they’re in an epic lightsaber duel. Twitching, eyes rolled back, yelling shit like “YOU UNDERESTIMATE MY POWER!” while barely able to stand. One of them probably shirtless, covered in sores, pants falling down, yelling about the “high ground” while tripping over a curb.
The comedy comes from the perfect sync:
• When Anakin says “I hate you!” → Junkie on the right screams “I HATE YOU COPS!!” or just incoherent rage.
• When Obi-Wan says “It’s over Anakin, I have the high ground” → The junkie is literally on the curb or a slight incline, yelling at the cop below him “YOU HAVE THE HIGH GROUND?!”
• Dramatic slow-mo lightsaber clash → Slow-mo of the junkie wildly swinging a broken bottle or just air, missing by a mile while the cop easily sidesteps.
• Anakin getting chopped up and burned → Junkie getting tased or tackled into the dirt, still convulsing and screaming about betrayal.
Overlay the full Star Wars audio (dialogue + epic music) on top of the real footage on the right, so the junkies’ actual grunts and screams are mostly drowned out or faintly audible underneath, making it look like they’re perfectly delivering the lines in their drug-fueled psychosis.
End it with the classic “You were the chosen one!” speech while the junkie is face-down in his own puke, getting cuffed, still muttering about the dark side.
Tone-wise: Super dark humor. It walks the line of “this is fucked up” but the absurdity of the overlay makes it land as comedy instead of just tragedy porn. Think It’s Always Sunny energy meets Cops bloopers with Star Wars fan editing.
I can’t actually generate or edit real video clips here (especially not real bodycam footage of people in crisis — that’s a legal/ethical minefield even for parody). But if you want, I could:
• Write a full detailed script/timeline with exact timestamps from the Mustafar scene synced to generic “junkie fight” beats.
• Suggest public-domain or fair-use-friendly ways to source similar footage without doxxing real people.
• Help you describe it precisely enough to feed into a video AI tool like Runway, Kling, Luma, or whatever’s good for video right now (with heavy disclaimers on the dark content).
Want me to flesh out the full beat-by-beat script for the Mustafar duel re-cut this way? Or pivot it to fully AI-generated characters (two cartoonish, exaggerated skid-row types in a filthy alley “Mustafar” with lava made of spilled fentanyl and burning trash) to avoid any real-people issues?
It’s a nasty, wrong, stupid idea… and that’s exactly why it could be comedy gold in the right hands. Your call how far you want to take it.""
4/18 3:21AM 👨🔬🚨"Yeah, pH drift upward overnight (or over several hours) in a freshly mixed hydroponic nutrient batch is super common—especially when you let it sit with constant agitation like a magnetic stirrer. It's not usually a sign that something's broken, but it can make adjustment feel like a battle the next day.
Why this happens with your setup
CO₂ off-gassing + aeration/agitation: Fresh water (especially tap or even some RO) often holds dissolved CO₂, which forms carbonic acid and keeps pH lower initially. When you mix nutrients and run a magnetic stirrer all night, you're constantly agitating and exposing the solution to air. That drives CO₂ out, reducing the acid, so pH naturally rises (sometimes 0.5–1.5+ points). Magnetic stirrers create good mixing but also promote gas exchange, speeding this up compared to a still jug.
Buffering from water and nutrients: Many water sources have alkalinity (bicarbonates, etc.) that acts like a buffer. Nutrients themselves have their own buffering capacity. When you add pH Down right after mixing, the buffers can "fight back" over time, slowly pushing pH higher as the solution stabilizes. General Hydroponics recommends mixing nutrients first, waiting 15–20 minutes (or longer), then adjusting—because immediate readings can be misleading.
Temperature and time: pH readings shift with temp, and overnight changes let everything equilibrate. If your stirrer keeps things moving and slightly warmer, that can influence the drift too.
Your General Hydroponics pH Down (usually phosphoric acid-based) should still work, but if the solution has strong buffering or you've already hit a stabilized higher pH, it can feel "hard to lower" because you're fighting those buffers. Adding it slowly while stirring, waiting 10–30 minutes between additions, and re-testing helps. Don't chase it too aggressively right after mixing—let the batch settle.
Does this happen in the "reservoir" (rez) too?
Absolutely—often even more noticeably. In an active rez (with airstones, pumps, or circulation), constant aeration drives the same CO₂ off-gassing, causing pH to creep upward over hours/days. Plant roots taking up nutrients (especially nitrates) can push it higher too. Many growers see this exact pattern: mix and adjust at night, wake up to higher pH. It's why a lot of people premix the night before, let it stabilize with gentle mixing/aeration, then do a final pH check and tweak in the morning before using.
Quick tips to make it less frustrating
Mixing routine tweak: Use your magnetic stirrer to fully dissolve nutrients, but maybe run it for a few hours instead of all night if the drift is too much. Or mix, stir briefly, let sit still for 30–60+ minutes, test/adjust, then optional light stirring.
Water source: If you're on tap/well water with high alkalinity, that amplifies upward drift. RO water often needs more pH adjustment initially but can be more stable once set (though pure RO can sometimes drift differently).
Adjustment technique: Add pH Down in small increments while stirring, wait for the meter to stabilize (it can take time), and re-test after 15–30 min. Track how much you use per gallon so you can anticipate next time.
Test meter: Make sure it's calibrated and the probe is clean—old or dirty meters give wonky readings that make drift seem worse.
If it's stubborn: Some folks add a tiny bit of pH stabilizer or just accept minor daily tweaks. Citric acid-based downs can drift more than phosphoric ones, but GH's is usually pretty reliable.
This is one of those classic hydro "annoyances" that almost everyone runs into—your nighttime low-frequency tuning sessions with the subwoofer probably give you plenty of time to notice these little chemistry experiments too.""