now we wait for the enlargement of buds ... the plant has remained low and compact ...... the branches and the trunk are very resistant and hard, unfortunately it has yielded a thread that held it and the plant has grown a bit ' strange, but the scent is not at all .... I think the plant will give me definitely less than what I'm used to (over 50 gr)

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

As you can see from the third picture on day 29 she is looking a little ugly and unkept. I'm not sure if this is a normal thing or something I need to take action on. Advice would be great. So day 30 rolling around. Decided I had to try LST again. She felt more receptive to being bent over today as well. I mainly had to attempt it for space reasons. With the current covid panic all the markets where I buy my buckets from are closed and I can't procure a new one to increase my height for probably a couple of weeks at this rate so LST was my only option. She seems to have taken well to it and I will upload a finished picture of her shortly. Day 32, watered and fed her. 500ml of water plus .3ml each of fox farm trio. Hoping to see her perk up a bit. Concerned about the large brown spot on one of her leaves which made me think she was having a deficiency? Probably a bit early to worry about buds fattening up also but I am worried they are looking a bit airy at the moment on the non main cola sites. I'm not sure if my LST was effective at tricking her into trying to have more than one top cola? Day 33. No noticeable gains today, at least to my eyes. I can spot a little nute burn perhaps but hopefully nothing too serious. Looks like a cola that isn't the original top is starting to fill out just as much, if not more, than the original top though. Hoping they all catch up at a similar pace to each other and reduce the pop corn nug potential! Day 35. She has shown a few more bud sites since last post. I am worried that she is going to produce a fair bit of larf/popcorn bud and wanted to know how to get rid of that? I am not confident to remove any growth without knowing for sure it has a beneficial impact on the overall health of the plant and the final results. Any advise is appreciated. She also seemed a bit thirsty to me. The leaves were feeling a bit thin and dry so I gave her 1L of water with .7ml each of fox farm trio. Hopefully she responds well. I will check her in an hour or so to see if the leaves are starting to point back up - fingers crossed.

05/12/21 - PRE FLOWER: The plants have certainly grown in size and most bud sites are showing the beginnings of pistils. - Some leaves have purple spots - This could be phosphorus deficiency. I am feeding a healthy dose of blooming nutrients - so this could be a heat issue as the temp does get below 20 often. I have decided to invest in a heat mat. Had to defoliate some bud sites on some plants as I was an IDIOT and but a blow fan heater close to warm up - so I have lost some bud sights maybe 10% overall - lesson learnt. I hope this hasn't stressed the plants out too much. Lights are at 100% brightness.

Massive 💚

Helloing 👋🏻 friends and visitors. Welcome to My Pro~Mix Open Top Grow Bag diary. Everything is going well she's at the stage of pungent odours which is such a tease 😜 she lowered her liquid intake. Did a good defoliation, i wasn't planning to, as i wanted to witness her in her full glory, but i couldn't refrain myself 😂 Feeding: Sat 18Nov: 3L water only pH'd 6.45 Tue 21Nov:3L with nutrients pH'd 6.3 ------------------------------------- That's all for today's weekly update. Hope you enjoyed your visit. Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

Flushed and Chopped everything in the last 7 days, very happy with both strains my best grow to date with the futur vert flora max 660watts led. Adding another futur vert Flora max 660watts for the next grow shit going to get crazy then .. the monkey berries with be trimmed Friday more pics to come them

Welcome to Flower Week 4 of Sweet Seeds Strawberry Cola Sherbet F1 I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my Sweet Seeds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Photo strain Strawberry Cola Sherbet F1 : Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Sweet Seeds • 💧 Humidity Range: 50 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 7weeks • Strain Info: 18-22%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 16 • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 600W x 2 A huge thank you to Sweet Seeds for allowing me to try my Best with this amazing collection from Photo Strains they managed to Sponsore . Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!

Que hay fumetillas, vuelta actualizar otra semana de critical, no me canso de cultivarla de verás, una indica con floración rápida con unos cogollos como rocas. Semillas conseguidas en grow barato, a granel, por un bajo coste, y bien cultivadas salen genial sin fallo. . La humedad esta al 45% la temperatura está entre 21/25 grados , y como siempre el ph , ya que es de lo más importante,está en 5,8/6,0. . AgroBeta: Ya tenemos el lavado de raíces realizado, y hemos retirado los nutrientes para aplicar un estrés hídrico. . Hasta aquí todo familia 🕸️ , un saludo y buenos humos fumetillas💨💨💨.

Day 15 - First day in the second week of veg cycle and I am generally happy with both ladies. Cheech is looking like she is bending over a little with the weight of her leaves, so I’ve given her a bit of help to keep her steady and strong. I’ve also noticed that the roots on Cheech are sticking together and a bit darker than I would like. This could mean that the air stone left a “dead spot” where the water wasn’t circulating properly. I’ve adjusted the air stone to be more centre in the bucket and made sure that the water is cold enough to prevent potential root rot. Will need to keep a close eye for the next week or so. Lights have been not been adjusted (still at 60cm from seedlings) because there has only been about a 2cm growth in the last week. Changed the water (10L), buckets and nutrients to keep everything healthy. The tubes for the air bubblers are wiped down because the nutrients stick to the pipe. Milwaukee PH controller is running for about 1 hour to bring the PH down again from the addition of the nutrients and change in water. Day 17 and we have a clear front runner in Cheech. Her third node is open with a fourth clearly visible. Venezia has a clear third node, but it isn’t fully open yet with the fourth just barely starting. Day 20 - Cheech has a clear fourth node now and the fifth is starting to show whereas Venezia is one node behind. They are looking healthy and they will be ready to be topped in the coming week of veg

Man what a busy week. I left for a small vacation with the family and left the plants in the care of someone and luckly everything is still alive lol. Then today I almost forgot to post my weekly diary because I was busy build my new grow office and moving all the equipment in. The room I built is where all the plants well eventually end up ones my coco and perlite arrive. This washing machine strain is growing really strong. Not surprising seeing as how nice ripper seeds strains have bee so far. Only one plant of the 15 ive done has been a dud. Roots are at the bottom of the 1 gal pot and well need to be transplanted soon. Well that's all for now so happy growing everyone.

Ultime 2 sett.per la maturazione e a parer mio posso anche tagliare tutt'e due le gorilla 🦍 cookies.....good job fast Buds good job

Skunk apple runtz I'm probably only going to keep 1 of these guys seeing the 2nd just has really bad growth so far. I'm sad about this I made this cross out my last grow and was hoping for the better end of things. The other plants is decent but we will see I hope it has the growth pattern of the lit farms Rick bobby and the bud structure of the obama runtz I grew It's looking like a good start to a week the plants are strong they are getting to the point I can let the dried dry out completely. I'm thinking by the end of this week the plants will be starting to be sold. Last week I put all the plants into my bigger 2x4 tent with my medicgrow mini sun 2 the 500w version. Only a few of the plants were ready for that light. Seems like the only plants that really have good resistance and have a strong start are the weedseedsexpress.com seeds. Shout out to weedseedsexpress.com for the strong plants. I ended up putting all the plants back into my 2x2 tent with the 55w amazon light it has alot more blue light in its spectrum. It's kinda weird b4 I switched the plants to the 2x4 tent they were getting 220umol under my amazon 55w led then when I put them under the 500w light 25% strength about 50in from plants and they were getting only about 195umol in that tent but it was stressing most the plants. I assume a larger light has more side lighting hitting the plants. I think when useing larger lights it's good to measure umols from the top but also coming from the sides. I think durring seedling stage they only need about 50% the umols coming from the side the plants as the top is receiving. When I put the plants back in the small tent about the same umols as they were getting b4 the switch and they were still a little stressed. So for a few days I put the small light at the top the tent giving them 100umols for a few hrs then 130umols the rest the day.

Found some leaves showing defiencies, but not a big problem so far. It looks like Mag. defiency. Ph outcome was 6.2 so the ph lockout is not what the problem was. Will see next week if more yellowing will come or not. Plants dont look like there is some serious problem with growing, so all cool.

3 ml npk in 2 l water And given half of it! Plant seems to like it And pruning worked wonder! Leaves are healthy and getting much bigger in size! 15 cms+ excited!!

So the increase in feed is going well and the plants are drinking more and more. I measured the heights of them and adjusted the lights as one of them was not level. might have been that way since last adjustment, I kept hearing some poping noises coming from the tent so could have been that as well. #1 33cm #2 28cm #3 27cm #4 18cm #5 38cm #6 43cm #4 is much shorter then the rest of its peers, but we will see how it goes long term. As I though some slight yellowing on leaf tips but nothing crazy, PH going in at 6.2 coming out at 6.49 not bad, matching the trend in EC difference. EC going in at 1.4 coming out aorund 1.0 So might want more food but more frequently vs more at one time. I could try and get into a new watering routine but I really don't want to. Something easy maybe to mix up a jug that I just give them between normal watering that has light feed in it and will not get runoff with it. The runoff to prevent salt buildup can come from the main watering. Also found a weird looking something growing on plant #3 medium. Took some photos of it. Looks alien. going to let it grow, that plant is doing fine.