Made it to harvest w 2 so far! Oozecake is a couple extra days. Boy she tastes amazing! Will ice her tomorrow and put her in 48 hrs of dark before I harvest. What an experience it has been! Can’t wait to try after the cure.

36x36x72 Tent with 2 COB Light's Day 1: Dropped 5 OG Kush Auto's and 1 Mystery Seed (more than likely a photo) into water to germinate. Day 2: Placed into damp paper towel. Day 3: Dropped into Coco Loco, placed dome on top. Day 4: One shell opened and pushed through. As the seeds were all given to me and my girl put the mystery seed with the others, they got mixed up. IS this the mystery seed??😵 Day 5: Got 5 pushed through now. I have only spritzed the dome and the ground since Day 1 of watering with 30 ml of de-chlorinated tap water ph 6.5. I have 2 TS 600's should be arriving Saturday to add to my CREE lights. Day 6: I gave em 30 ml more water this morning. Coco still looked wet but was dry. The 6th seed had sprouted under the soil. I felt it should have been pushed thru by now. Dug down about .375" and there she was. Still alive?? Day 7: Have given the girls another drink. This time 25 ml with a touch of AN Coco Grow. The 6th seed has turned her nose up to the light and seems to be doing fine. 👌 They are all reaching for the sky. Seemed like they had grown a half inch since this morning before work! 💪

This week has been all about shaping the plant. I’ve learned from last that the colas weren’t the same height, because I let the plant do it’s things with just a bit of training. Now I know what to look for so I’m trying my hardest. I top dressed this week with crab meal, Gaia green all purpose 4-4-4, insect frass, kelp meal, bone meal, azomite, and covered it with a healthy serving of worm castings (about an inch to 2 inches). All of which was sprinkled on all the chopped and dropped leaves/branches. I believe in adding biomass to soil, especially for an indoor growing who is money conscious. Doing that can help save me money going back to the store for more soil.

So far so good, they are just little and coming up well for now.. love my kosher nutrients but I'm going to be switching to future harvest developments dosaline and give that a whirl

Never ever put an autoflower and a photoperiod in the same grow box. The harvest was fantastic despite my mistake. I have to admit that the Sativa gave me a lot more pleasure than the Skunk as well as a superior final yield. 100% satisfied. Thanks Sensi Seeds.

09/18/2021 At battle with catapillar this week Hand picking them off, some bud rot caused by catapillar's . Light defoiliating dying, yellowing leaves. Hand picking is tedious but well worth the effort. Feeding neptunes harvest 2-3-1 this is last week of feeding. Drinking lots of water this week gave each plant 2.0 gallons of Neptunes Harvest 2-3-1 hope it works out couldn't find fox farms, or big buds but I'm sure they will be fine.....will feed again on Friday then plain water for 3-4 weeks till harvest. Feeding should get them through the next two weeks then watering plain water should flush anything not needed by plants. Girls are thirsty this week, just in time for feeding! Neptunes Harvest seems to do the trick. Pistils piling on like crazy so one more feeding on Friday Of 2-3-1 and Week 7-8 banana peel tea, she should start Fattening up,and fading nicely by week 8-9.🙏🏻 The NPK value for banana skins is 0.6-0.4-11.5. But this is the value for dried banana skins. (I will make tea from peels) not sure of N-P-K Is for peel tea? But it works well in my opinion. Day # 6 week 6 applied gypsum today gypsum should help a little with PH issues,7.0 a little to alkaline but she will grow, but she thrive at 6.2 PH

This week or a bit more was absolutely fucked up. Heavy rain and cold strong winds every day, but it is getting better now. Plants keep growing taller, except for White Whidow, which is the only one whos flowering well at the moment.

Running with tap water now.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

######################################### HARVEST (Day 93 / June 4) ######################################### ----------------------------------------------------------- GROW SUMMARY ----------------------------------------------------------- Grown in 4x4 tent - but I only used 2x2 space because of heater and dehumidification and other plants (Outlier Z). This plant used a dedicated CMH 315 light. The plant was grown in hydroponics using a custom single-site PA hydroponics clone RDWC system with Advanced Nutrients Sensi Coco line, Microbial Mass and Orca for beneficials. I also experimented with Rapid start in the RDWC system, but I didn't see explosive root growth relying on Rapid Start as an additive to the system verse using it when starting in rapid rooters which worked well. All around a pretty easy grow and things went very well. Topped twice for a mainline structure and she really spread out. Sparkling golf ball size nugs down the branches and spaced out nicely. The scent off her was like burned rubber/tires or maybe fresh blacktop. A single water change which was only performed when switching to bloom nutrients around week 7. ----------------------------------------------------------- HARVEST ----------------------------------------------------------- No dark period and no flush. On day 93 she was chopped and hung to dry. ----------------------------------------------------------- DRYING ----------------------------------------------------------- Entire plant hung upside down for 15 days. The temps were dialed in at 60F by using the S6 intake fan pulling air from the AC through intake vent on side of the tent. Humidity was dialed in at 63%/60F for 24hr, 62%/60F for the next 48hr. Then 60%/60F for the third day and onward. AC Infinity T6/S6 exhaust and intake fans were on the setting of '2' during drying until day 7, then I could turn down to a setting of '1' once the plants were not transpiring excess moisture. Trimmed on day 18. Then the jars were left open in the tent for another 12 more days for a full 30 day dry at 60%/60F while rolling the jars frequently. Also ran dehumidifier in the tent but it only ran for 1-2 minutes every hour because the AC was doing most of the dehumidification on the intake. ----------------------------------------------------------- TRIMMING ----------------------------------------------------------- Trimming was an absolute breeze. All swelled nuggets, very little sugar leafs left to trim. ----------------------------------------------------------- CURING ----------------------------------------------------------- Flower product was transferred to 1L mason jars averaging 35g of product per jar. I added a mini hygrometer to each jar and chose not to use a boveda this time. The RH averaged 62-64% when trimmed flowers went in jars. Jars were left open in the tent for a total dry time of 30 days from harvest keeping the tent at 60%/60F. Once closed, the jars were burped once a day for the first seven days, once every other day for the next seven days, rolling jars often. The burp was only for 3-5 second for air exchange until a. 62% was maintained in the jar. ----------------------------------------------------------- YIELD ----------------------------------------------------------- * Weight calculated at 62% humidity after 30-day dry and 14-day cure. ============================== FLOWER PRODUCT ============================== 180.41g (6.44oz) ============================== TRIM PRODUCT ============================== 57g (2.03oz) ** All major fan leaves, stems, and branches removed from trim product. ============================== TOTAL OVERALL YIELD ============================== Total: 238.41g (8.51oz) ============================== SPACE YIELD ============================== 238.41g / 4 sqft (2x2 canopy) = 59.60g per sqft ============================== WATTAGE YIELD ============================== 315 Watts / 4 Square Foot (3x4 canopy) = 78.75 watts per sqft. 238.41g / 315 watts = 0.76 grams per watt ----------------------------------------------------------- PRODUCT TEST ----------------------------------------------------------- Bag appeal is top-notch. Trichome covered, with aromas of that unique 'kush' you can quickly identify based on experience. Best OG Kush I've ever tried, hands down! The flavour is kushy, smoke is smooth and definitely my favorite strain in my tote of cured harvests at the moment. I can't keep my hands off of the jars. Definitely not a daytime strain, even for experienced users, although I'll use it in the afternoon when life is throwing curve balls. The effects rise you up, then sets you right down and will wash away all that anxiety after a long day. Put it this way....if I puff a few hours before bed, I still feel it the next morning when I peel my eyes open. No joke. I'll definitely be growing this one again, maybe even next run because I'll be sad when I run out. ----------------------------------------------------------- REGRETS ----------------------------------------------------------- Not running more of this amazing plant. ----------------------------------------------------------- NEXT RUN ----------------------------------------------------------- This was the first run at my new residence so it will take some time to get it dialed in. I had some calibration issues which are now fixed. I'm going to be shooting for 1gram per watt on the next run. ----------------------------------------------------------- FINAL THOUGHTS ----------------------------------------------------------- DarkOwl is the best autoflower I've grown yet. I'm now eager to give the Bruce Banner #3 they released a run and will surely acquire future releases from DarkOwl. ----------------------------------------------------------- THE END ----------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for checking out my diary! I typically journal in my notebook but I put some time and effort into documenting my grows on this platform in hopes it will help a new or experienced grower with their DWC journey. Any questions or suggestions are welcomed. Happy growing!

Coming along nicely, staying short & stout. I've had NL flower that smelled unbelievably beautiful & it was a great night time relaxing strain. I hope this one is similar

QUE gran variedad, buen porte, bien frondosa, pide a gritos trasplante y esta sera la última semana en esta semana macetas, pronto trasplantamos a 7L

More later after drying!

Taking it slow with the veg state to develop larger, stronger plants and it seems to be paying off. I've trimmed the lower leaves at least 3 times this week. I think I'm going to extend it out at least one more week before switching to flower state. Early in the week I switched from blue to purple to allow the branches to push through the screen more. Then mid-week blue, to rebuild the fan leaves, then back to purple once I rearranged everyone into their optimal positions for capturing light. I see a lot of potential for multiple colas. Each time I switched to purple, I raised the light up a few inches to help them stretch. As noted last week, lamp distance is being measured from top of net (not top of plant). I continue to add compost tea every Tuesday, which they love :-)

Going out of town for a few days so decided to rig up an automatic reservoir top off system. So added a new 15gallon "pre reservoir" with air stones and a timer pump. Every 12 hours it will kick on and send 2 gallons to the main res, where there is a float valve to shut off at a high water level. Also the tent has a flood sensor if tripped will kill the power to the pre pump. Should be safe to leave for a few days.

Ahhrrrrrggggghhhh PH imbalances! Don't panic. We got this. After a few theories and a bunch of research what I originally thought was light stress then a Cal Mag deficiency. Then I saw leaf damage and thought of Thrips. Wrong wrong and wronger. Turns out the soil PH is all out if wack. By which I mean waaaaaay too high. Like almost 8. That's what I get for not thinking PH was nOT tHaT BiG a dEaL. Now equipped with my PH and TDS meters and a little PH up and PH Down from Standard Hydroponics we can get thing back into balance. Lots of leaf growth this week. Looks like flowering is right around the corner. This will probably be the last week I'll feed her Grow Girls Grow from DSN and switch to Bloom Baby Bloom next week. I've also done some defoliation this week to get light to some of the bud sites. Again I had no idea LST was this powerful, she's gonna have such pretty flowers Looking forward to Bloom 🌹🚀🌻😎

Day 21 have done much but water when dry ive just started to implement fish sh!t to my regiment and silica The schedule is plain ph water next water fish sh!t then plain ph water then silica Trying to keep it simple i water about ever 3days so far and everything it going well as far as my eyes can see

Week 9 and everything is going well. Even though the weather hasn't been very sunny and we've mostly had cloudy days and plenty of rain, our beauty keeps growing. The trichomes have started turning cloudy, and we can already see some amber ones appearing. We're going to wait until about 50% of them are amber before harvesting. We picked a small bud to dry and test at this stage so we can compare the effect, and then we'll try it again when the plant reaches around 50% amber trichomes. The finish line is getting closer! 🌱💚

diamantes puros lleno de resina estas pequeñas con un sabor a mandaryna y gas

This strain has huge fat buds everywhere there was not one popcorn bud sooo i think this is a keeper