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Well we’re in the shit now that’s for sure. 10 weeks in to veg. A bunch of unruly plants that just want to flower, a delayed timeline on the clones, and the last harvest that’s screwing with the whole damn schedule 🤬. That’s the summary anyway. The strawberry is outdoors doing its thing and lookn great. The Lost Coast was up potted to a 15gal. And outside no more than 12 hours before a fuckin squirrel knocked a vase on top of the mainline - splitting the stem right to the medium. We taped it up and the plant looks like it’s gonna live but so much for the monster mainline we had planned. Now I t’ll be babying a stunted and injured runt all season🤬. The other plants inside are a running lesson in canopy management. The widow is unruly and had to be topped on all the current mains. The Skywalker is similar. The others are still lagging a little, primarily due to their indica leaning nature. The boogie nights might not be worthy of the indoor spot as she’s very small in comparison to the others. Time will tell here as I’m also still waiting on some materials for the eventual scrog net (thanks a lot covid) which could drag this out even longer. Clones started popp’n roots in the aerocloner on day ten🤟. It’s just more proof that even in less than ideal conditions, as long as you have a strong, mature cutting - its not a question of if, but simply a matter of when.😎😎😎 32% avg. RH 22 degrees Celsius avg. temp. No humidity dome Multiple mistings per day
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📆 Semana 7 El cultivo entra en la fase final de engorde, con el coco equilibrado y una absorción estable. La canopia se mantiene sana mientras la planta concentra su energía en las flores. Los cogollos siguen compactando y aumentando en peso, con una producción de resina cada vez más visible que empieza a cubrir bien las flores. La Red Banana Pudding continúa algo más baja pero mantiene un desarrollo uniforme y acompaña el ritmo del cultivo. El aroma del armario se intensifica y aparecen notas dulces y cremosas propias de esta etapa. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!
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1/8/2024: so far the grow is not off to a great start. The browning that started on the cotyledon has spread to the other leaves and her growth has definitely slowed a bit. I used some water that sat out for a few days, so that may have been the issue, but I'm not sure why that would cause a problem. The ph was at 6.2. I also foiler fed them with some Tweetmint, which i think is the issue. I may hav3 not diluted it enough, causing the buring. I'm laying off anymore IPM until the olants bounce back. I also turned the lights down until i can get the plants back on track. It may just be the soil is too hot, but I have other plants in different soil that are showing the same symptoms, so it makes me think it's not the soil. I'm not giving up yet, but if things don't improve soon, I may just pop a new seed. This is my biggest issue with auto flowers. If the grow isn't perfect I could end up stunting the plant too much. I guess we will find out. 1/10/2024: Day 10 - the new growth is coming in healthy. I'm pretty sure the foiler spay I used last week is what caused the issue. I went back and realized I used way more of the concentrate than I should have, which likely burned the leaves. Let's hope that is the only mistake I make on this grow and it doesn't stunt the plant too much. 1/14/2024 - Day 14: she is looking so much better. All the new growth is as healthy as can be. I added a new light today. Replaced the Spider Farmer SF2000 with the AC Infinity Ionboard S44. I originally had the S44 in my 4x4, but recently bought a light with more Watts and better coverage for the 4x4. The S44 is probably overkill for the 2x4, but it fit, so I figured I'd give it a try. Only have it on at 60% at the moment and I'm getting about 500 ppfd, with a DLI of 30. Dropped the light cycle down to 18 on and 6 off as well. I have some photo period plants in the 2x4 as well, and I wanted to shift them to 18/6, so the auto is going along for the ride.
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March, 14th. The automatic Strain performs well. Its alittle bit tougher to keep them happy, than the Photoperiods, but i get it managed Harvest is coming closer Girls sit in up to 10g of Soil getting daily Bath into the Feedingsolution, and some claypebbles on the surface to keep them happy Stay tuned
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Week 14 Day 92 (13/11/2020)💧: Great start to the week with watering today and because all the girls are entering their 4th week of flower, I will again be increasing the BioBloom as per the commendations on the watering chart, but since the pH has been increased they are definitely looking great and have enough nutrients between the watering days. So today I gave the girls 4.5 ml of BioBloom, 1.5ml of BioGrow, 1.5ml of CalMag, and 1.5ml of TopMax for 1.5L of water. I think I will be giving the same nutrients for the rest of the week as well. Day 93 (14/11/2020): Not that many updates today actually. The girl is looking amazing as always Day 94 (15/11/2020): I wanted to check the trichomes on the girl today with a loupe to see how she is developing up closer but I have no idea where my loupe is :( Really wanted to look closer at the flowers but will have to find it first to take some close up pictures as well Day 95 (16/11/2020)💧: We watered the girl today and gave her the same nutrients as before. They were watered with 4.5ml of BioBloom, 1.5ml of BioGrow, 1.5ml of CalMag and 1.5ml of TopMax. I think the TopMax is definitely making the buds fatten up. Day 96 (17/11/2020): The girl is super healthy and looking great, I took a picture from below because it’s quite hard to show how she is growing now. She is definitely the smallest girl and has the smallest buds even now after giving TopMax but from the bottom is looks like quite a lot of flowers. Day 97 (18/11/2020): Not that many updates today, just gonna mention that the girl does not smell as strong as the others in the tent. The others smell so strong that it is getting through the closed tent. DSD smells quite nice but the smell is not strong at all. It is very earthy, maybe a bit of pine, so quite a nice smell just not enough of it! I wonder how it will be after the flowers dry... Day 98 (19/11/2020)💧: I keep wanting to measure the pH to make sure that it is still above 6.0 but I haven’t had enough time because it takes a while, but I will make sure to measure the pH before the next watering. So still watering with the same nutrients as at the beginning of the week with BioBloom, 1.5ml of BioGrow, 1.5ml of CalMag and 1.5ml of TopMax. Although I think this will be the last time I will be adding CalMag because the girl looks like she does not have that deficiency any more. Also it looks like she stopped stretching length-wise and started focusing on growing the buds because the height is the same as last week. But really amazing progress this week, I’ve included a video of all the girls in the tent as well so it’s easier to see how different they are!
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@Ferenc
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I had to take a big decision. I know it is not good it is way too hot in the tent but needed to remove from my garden because of some reasons. Firstly, illegal which is fine but I do not want to take a risk for 3 g of harvest. She should start flowering in autumn when less sun and weather is basically shitty here in London it is okay to grow but when starts flowering.... so I planted an auto and saw that it wont yiled good so I was thinking what will happend to my Zkittlez in autumn when mush less sun and weather is going down. So realised I can have a 2-3 m plant but it ain't gonna flower just a bit. Soni decided to put under artificial light but it is summer my plants are suffering in the tent. Inhave no choice I will try to manage maximum I will cut back. Hopefully all goes ok. Day 86: Fucked up she was totally wilt I removed all the leaves basically the stalk left only..... she will be okay
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Day:56 from germination 16H FullSpectrum 2H Red+Fr+RB+Uv Avarage Par 1000-1280 120*120 Single Hydrophonic 1000ppm 6.4PH
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Pues ahí van. Las he empezado a guiar con unos clips de LST para frenar el crecimiento vertical, aunque no me termina de preocupar ya que en un mes como mucho, me hincharé a hacer cortes apicales para sacar esquejes y preparar el cultivo nuevo. La blue zushi que de momento es la que me interesa, va bastante bien y creciendo rapido, la Amnesia cbd va mas despacito pero me preocupa menos la vd, que esa en principio para este cultivo no cae, seguramente sea para una tanda mas lejana de cbds.
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Aquí seguimos con las pequeñas que siguen avanzando en la floración ya llevan sobre 19 días floreciendo! Estoy en duda si cortarlas o dejarlas rebrotar de nuevo.. llegan RUNTZ,PAPAYA ZOAP Y PURPLE PUNCH. El huerto va a estar muy competitivo solo queda el aporte de MIMOSA EVO
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@Budha420
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Oh boy my first ever harvest is making its way💜💚 Day 61: So these girls have been fattening their budsites and #3 isnt mad about how close the light is😅 these plants have really strong resistance and amazing genetics 🔥 On that note highly recommend Fastbuds seeds. First ever grow and these seed did not let me down. Amazing frost, incredible resistance againts overfeed and high temp (also low). Plant #1 and #2 are further into flower than #3. 3 has still almost 90% white hairs and definitely non tris that are cloudy. 1 and 2 however have almost all hairs turned to beatiful dark orange🧡 They still have ways to go before harvest. Might start flushing soon. Day 63: Morning fellow growers 🌅 💜 Checked trichomes this morning with my quite annoying small ass 30x lens. Almost impossible to see them but by the looks of it, atleast on lower buds almost all of em al clear. So imo they have still time to get fat 😎 i think ill start flushing when i see cloudy tris on top buds atleast 90% and chop down when 75/25 cloud/amber. So far my first grow has gone very well all things considered! What to remeber to do for my cookies and runtz, is that i will keep the cannopy level so i dont have one 120cm plant and two 60cm plants😂 also i have doubts about my offbrand light. Prolly will see 2 harvests trough and see if both times i get skinny nugs i will switch it out😎 stay lifted💚 Day 66: harvest is getting closer but seems like trichomes are mostly glassy still. Been feeding normally but cut the gro out this week. So only calmabg bloom and micra. Ph round 6.1. It seems like buds wont get that much denser or wont do much anymore. Would love some opinions what to do at this point! Edit: since growquestions are bugging, decided to harvest 1 top from 2 plants. Just to see hows the high and some closer looks. Seems like i might be a day or two early for my liking but opinions and comments are appreciated 💚
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@Elpicor
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D47 Flowering Week n° 2 started, I will pump up nutrition. I was saying this is the last time I removed big leaves and those that hinder buds, that was five times ago, I honestly didn't think I would get this size. D48 Strawberry pie survive to -4 c° last night, to day air temperature will be 12 degrees... In the Freedom Pic you are seeing a marijuana leaf and behind it a magnificent mountain panorama but you do not see what is in between which is the most important as often happens in life what is important you do not see ... what is it ? it's the clean fresh mountain air.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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@Roberts
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Gushers grew great during the grow. She loved the Spider Farmer G5000/UVR40 lights. She has a sweet fruity smell. Looks like some frosty nuggets of goodness will be my end results. Very eager to get to the smoke report. This grow was pretty smooth, and looks good. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Royal Queen Seeds. 👸 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Discount code:GROWERS20 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au G5000 Light Amazon Link: amzn.to/4643esa UVR 40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR7SGTHS Discount code: saveurcash (Stackable)
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@dutdut
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Smells like new shoes lol I think I made a decent haul off 315 Watts the buds look frosted and I can’t wait to dry some. I knew what to expect in the coming weeks and if I run this again I think I’ll keep the plants shorter like last time. Highly recommend this Indica strain to anymore looking to make dry ice hash or solvent less! I’ll do the weigh in shortly0
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There was a drive by shooting 4 houses over they hit a neighbor 2nd story wall..ahhh my neighborhood is a war zone lol.. An i still operating behind enemy lines lol lol.. That's a good neighbor too.. .. Have fun Stay safe Growers❤️💯💯
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Vamos familia, actualizamos la sexta semana de floración de estas Frosty tooth de Seedstockers, aplicamos varios productos de Agrobeta, que son increíbles para aportar una buena alimentación a las plantas. Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos dentro de la etapa de floración. La tierra utilizada es al mix top crop, por cambiar. De 5 ejemplares seleccioné los 3 mejores para completar el indoor y trasplanté directamente a macetas de 7 litros, el fotoperiodo a 12/12, aplique una poda de bajos, se ven bien sanas las plantas, tienen un buen color y progresan a muy buen ritmo por el momento, las plantas ya empezaron a tricomar, una locura. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨.