Hello happy Growers! This week was better than early, I've founded few very litle banana spend the week, I will continue to check this week, Harvest will be in 2 or 3 weeks, I hope can take situation under control untill harvest. If banana start to be too big, I'll remove the branch. If no, buds start to be compact, Nice sweet smeel and sticky, Probably my last fertilizer week, after I'll start flush Plant start to take less water, sign harvest for soon :) Have a good week my friends

My how she smells and fades 😋😍👌 Getting some really nice coloration on her in her last stage 👏👏. Trichomes look good, ill let her rip for another week or so to have the middle and bottom buds catch up a bit, and probably harvest during my vacation. Looks im gonna be busy for a while with her.😵 Watering still stays 6L at ~6PH 5ml/L Bloom, 5ml/L Green Sens. Did some final and thorough defoliaton this week because i did not like that the RH was creeping towards 60%. Next run already decided for a 1:1 Plant, also from Paradise Seeds. Photoperiods it is for now 👻 Harvest is approaching 💀

LST, HST and defoliated second time, Fimmed main 1x, fimmed all tops 14 days later, fimmed all resulting tops 3 weeks later. well over 100 tops and counting, removed all tiny branches off the mains. pre loli.. lol Ill let em up in a few days. should be well beyond the 20" circumference of the 20 gal pots. Gonn a flower 2 in the space , and 2 in my newly acquired 48x48x80 tent. Shopping a few Flowering beasts to put in for the next phase. Love to get 2x https://opticledgrowlights.com/products/slim-720s-dimmable-led-grow-light-720w-triple-dimmer-3500k-uv-ir-lh351h-v2. Oh well, we will see. HAppy growing peeps!

A cool and easy-to-grow hybrid 👍

…

Day 30 of flower. Master kush strain. Plants in back right and front left. Roughly 30 days left to go in flower. Lights 1212 par value roughly 1000. I keep lowering my light no signs of light burn yet at 19 inches. Day temp 21-26 night 17-21. Rh% is set to 45-55%. Watering every third day. 4L per plant . No runoff. Every third water I give technaflora nutrients at 1400ppm. Water ph 6.2 Ive learned my plants love a water ph around 6.2. Even slightly altering this to 6.7 you can tell they don’t grow as much. Very excited for the next few weeks as you just sit back and watch them fatten up. See y’all next week.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Ciao a tutti! Ho saltato le prime due settimane di crescita, perciò partirò dalla terza. Il giorno 15 ho sostituito la mia vecchia lampada Niello crew cob da 600 Watt (falsi) ad una MarsHydro TS2000 da 300 Watt (reali). In soli tre giorni ho potuto vedere una crescita incredibile degli internodi. Come substrato ho usato BioBizz, 35% all mix - 65% light mix. Per le prime settimane solo acqua con pH 6.2/6.3 e all'occorrenza 2 ml/l di olio di Neem (ho avuto un infestazione di moscerini proveniente dal sottosuolo, al momento sotto controllo). Sono sprovvisto di umidificatore, perciò all'occorrenza bagno le pareti per avere dei valori migliori (senza intervenire l'umidità si stabilizza al 47%, bagnando cerco di mantenerla >50/55%).

Voltage, also known as electric pressure, electric tension, or (electric) potential difference, is the difference in electric potential between two points. In a static electric field, it corresponds to the work needed per unit of charge to move a test charge between the two points. In the International System of Units (SI), the derived unit for voltage is named volt. The voltage between points can be caused by the build-up of electric charge (e.g., a capacitor), and from an electromotive force (e.g., electromagnetic induction in generators, inductors, and transformers). On a macroscopic scale, a potential difference can be caused by electrochemical processes (e.g., cells and batteries), the pressure-induced piezoelectric effect, and the thermoelectric effect. Since it is the difference in electric potential, it is a physical scalar quantity. A voltmeter can be used to measure the voltage between two points in a system. Often a common reference potential such as the ground of the system is used as one of the points. A voltage can represent either a source of energy or the loss, dissipation, or storage of energy. Dropping the temps will slightly raise the humidity, air holds less % water the colder it is. Lights on 25-35rh% the same water content will spike to 50rh% + at night just by dropping the temps. At night all the juice photosynthesis has been storing up is mashed and mixed up to make all the goodies we need for bud, water is used to transport all these things everywhere, like little solvent transport devices, once a nutrient/protein has been delivered to destination the plant needs to get rid of all this excess water molecules it was using to transport. The only solution at night is to spit it back out into the air at night. During the peak of flower, this can catch a grower unaware, with a 4x4 full tent it can be a challenge to control all that moisture exhaust overnight especially if you're really pushing the limits. We live in a water world, above or below, our misconception is we live on dry land, we don't live in less watery conditions than above or below. We fit into a very narrow band of moisture that just so happens to be full of lots of air and everything else required for life. Got my first full whiff of the smell of purple lemonade, always surprises me how accurately the smell fits names, the dominant terpenes in the Purple Lemonade weed strain are carene, linalool, limonene, and myrcene. Carene gives this strain its sweet, citrus flavor and some woody notes, whereas the linalool I recognize so well from Granddaddy Purp. Myrcene has been shown to have sedative qualities while bringing musky, earthy elements to the flavor profile. Trichome production started to ramp up, and the plant that grew taller/closer to UV showed noticeably thicker coatings. The taller plant shows slight yellowing of lower leaves, and the smaller plant is green and lush but the buds are slightly less progressed, interesting. I super-cropped the main stem of the tall one just over a week ago (clean). I expected it to be the one slightly behind in development. The plant has roughly 10-15% "Total resources" that it keeps in case emergencies arise. Reserves if you will. My rationale behind breaking anything goes hand in hand with slowing things down as production is lost due to the time it takes to repair damage. I recall watching a YouTube video, where a curly hair gentleman would super crop in a manner to damage but not disrupt using a twisting method, using fingers and thumbs placing them close together one goes clockwise other counter clock this varies a lot depending on the thickness of stem but what you wait for is a tiny snap, it may take several rolls to weaken if walls are tough I found. No snapping or bending of the stem, you want just to fracture it but not puncture this way the xylem and phloem channels remain flowing,the damage is repaired almost instantly and the 10-15% is dispatched with very little repair time. Everything in the general vicinity of the stress will now grow stronger so as to prevent further similar damage. This is why I had expected the tall one to lag behind in development once I had cropped it but low and behold it worked and the tall one has slightly more developed buds. The effects of birdsong on plant life may at first glance be far-fetched. Nigh on ten years ago an article appeared in Nexus Magazine on the discovery or invention of a method of growing plants using bird sounds. Christopher Bird and Peter Tompkins describe the development of Dan Carlson’s Sonic Bloom in their book The Secret Life of Plants. Many others have, it seems, recognized the role of birdsong in the growth of plants, and influenced or directly helped Carlson to develop his invention. Dan Carlson’s desire to see that no one need be hungry through shortage of food sought to understand the optimum growth of plants. He discovered that plants also feed from ‘the top down’ as well as the roots. Underneath all leaves are pores called stomata which open to take in nutrients and moisture from the air. Carlson’s observation that the more bird life there is on the farm, the more abundant is plant life, has been echoed by farmers throughout history, except in modern times. Where there is little bird life, plants are stunted, and dwarfed. Nature has the birds sing at dawn and dusk, which dilates the stomata, and so feeds the plants. One can immediately see the importance of trees. The development of Sonic Bloom was to create birdsong, which is played to the plants, while a foliar nutrient is sprayed onto the plants at the same time as they are being stimulated by the sound, to enhance their growth. This method produced fantastic results in the amount of abundantly nutritious produce from one plant, often in poor soils and in drought conditions. Carlson showed that the breathing leaves of plants are the source of the nutrient intake for growth. This of course is also true for humans—the breath is food. We shall discourse on this on another occasion. Plants transfer nutrients to the soil via this breathing, and Carlson showed that his plants improved the soil and helped earthworms proliferate. The secret of Sonic Bloom was the development of the music of the same frequency as the dawn chorus of the birds. With the help of a Minneapolis music teacher, Michael Holtz, a cassette was prepared. It seems that both birds and plants found Indian melodies called ragas delightfully suitable. This is actually quite profound, although the American farmers, especially women, who had to endure this music whilst it was played to the plants, found it irritating. Holtz found the “Spring” movement of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons appropriate and concludes: “I realized that Vivaldi, in his day, must have known all about birdsong, which he tried to imitate in his long violin passages. Holtz, it is related by the authors Bird and Tompkins, also realized that the violin music dominant in “Spring” reflected Johann Sebastian Bach’s violin sonatas broadcast by the Ottawa University researchers to a wheat field, which had obtained remarkable crops with 66 percent greater yield than average, with larger and heavier seeds. Accordingly, Holtz selected Bach’s E-major concerto for violin for inclusion on the tape. “I chose that particular concerto,” explained Holtz, “because it has many repetitions but varying notes. Bach was such a musical genius he could change his harmonic rhythm at nearly every other beat, with his chords going from E to B to G-sharp and so on, whereas Vivaldi would frequently keep to one chord for as long as four measures. That is why Bach is considered the greatest composer that ever lived. I chose Bach’s string concerto, rather than his more popular organ music, because the timbre of the violin, and its harmonic structure, is far richer than that of the organ. Birdsong has long been loved but also studied with reference to the musical scale and harmonics. As Holtz deepened his study he said, “I began to feel that God had created the birds for more than just freely flying about and warbling. Their very singing must somehow be intimately linked to the mysteries of seed germination and plant growth. The spring season down on the farms is much more silent than ever before. DDT killed off many birds and others never seem to have taken their place. Who knows what magical effect a bird like the wood thrush might have on its environment, singing three separate notes all at the same time, warbling two of them and sustaining the others. Tree and bird life are essential to Earth's existence, which Carlson, Holtz, and others have shown, but indeed others see and feel. “Plants”, says Steiner, “can only be understood when considered in connection with all that is circling, weaving, and living around them. In spring and autumn, when swallows produce vibrations as they flock in a body of air, causing currents with their wing beats, these and birdsong, have a powerful effect on the flowering and fruiting of plants. Remove the winged creatures, Steiner warns, and there would be stunting of vegetation. Nothing more needs to be added here. It has been said that you cannot hurt the humblest creature or disturb the smallest pebble without your action having a reaction upon something else...You cannot think of an evil thought, no matter how private, without it having an effect upon somebody else. Whatsoever you do in life sets up some form of resonance. When I say the morning chorus of the birds awakens the earth I mean that the characteristic song of the birds sets in motion a series of vibrations which react upon other forms of life. Remember, the soil of the earth is full of living microorganisms. The plants are also living organisms. You, yourselves, are living organisms. Now, this is the beauty and wonder of it all—when one aspect of nature has been moved into a state of resonance it immediately relays its vibrational motion to something else. So when I say the dawn chorus awakens the earth I literally mean what I say. I do not suggest that the earth would come to a standstill without the bird song, but I do mean that life on earth would be sluggish and ineffectual without that first instigating outburst of vibrational power poured forth at just the right pitch and tone to set off a chain effect. I know some of you will say, what happens in those parts of the world where there are no birds? Well, what does happen? Very little, I assure you. The hot deserts and the polar regions where there are few, if any, birds are not renowned for their wonders of nature. It is as though they are asleep. Nothing grows, few things live. Little resonates and there is a great stillness over everything. You see, that outburst of sound just before dawn is like the little lever that works the bigger lever which turns the wheel which moves the machine…and so on. Never underestimate small things. Animals are blessed with instantaneous and unthought-out wisdom. They are in direct contact with God and they act and live as though they are fully aware of it. Men are also in contact with God, but most of them act as though they have never heard of God because they are largely veiled from their divine center by their own thinking minds of which they are so proud.

Última semana de crecimiento de las Originals de GrowBarato. Las aguantamos bastante tiempo porque quiero sacar buenos árboles y llenar bien el espacio de verde. El crecimiento es normal el color verde que tienen es normal también se ven bien sanas. Se ven frondosas tienen bien de vegetación. Va todo sobre ruedas si me gustaría meter algo más de potencia en este armario que igual 150w se quedan cortos. Spannabis 2023 a sido increíble ya tengo ganas de que se haga el año que viene porque la de 2020 me quede con muchísimas ganas, conocí a muchas gente del sector que ya conocía por redes pero por fin nos ponemos caras, y lo dicho increíble la innovación de los productos , las genéticas que se llegan a ver, y los stands pfffff, de 10. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 25 grados y las mínimas no bajan 19, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/65% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨

Woche 9 Die Mimosa Fast von 00 Seeds Bank ist in der reife Phase angekommen. Letzte Woche hate ich ja den EC erhöht um einen kleinen Boost zu geben. In dieser Woche habe ich von alle Düngekomponenten die Dosis halbiert. Mit dieser Nährlösung werden die Mimosa jetzt eine bis ein halb Wochen bekommen. Nach und nach sieht man auch das die Mimosa immer weiter an den Erntezeitpunkt kommt.

The girls are starting to wrap up their cycle. I have been watching the trichomes closely, and we are getting very close..Trying to pick the best day for both of the strains I have going at the moment, the Apple Betty are a little closer than the cookies, but they are very similar in readiness… I’ll be checking daily, I did get a wireless microscope for Christmas so it has become much easier to tell👨‍🔬 I’ve got mostly cloudy, with a few clear, but I am waiting for a bit more amber to give them the couch lock that I like when I smoke. Boxing Day was the end of week 8, so any day now! Happy Holidays Growmie’s! ❤️🇨🇦😎🎉

Good morning, we're finally here. We've changed locations, still in southern Spain, but this time much closer to the sea and with a Mediterranean climate, like my Italian roots. Love it. We'll start with the autoflowering plants first; this time, they'll all be grown without cutting techniques. We'll always have two plants: one grown with just a little tidying and left to grow straight, and the other using techniques that don't involve cutting, and therefore slowing things down. I need weed; the grower must also consider this, so the autoflowering plants will finish as quickly as possible. In most cases, it will be a nice, firm LST, not too delicate, and I'll fim if the plant seems to touch the sky, as has happened recently, probably thanks to the Plagron fertilizers, which will be with us this time too. The chosen soil is the recently released Plagron Bio LightMix, which will allow us a more regular and reliable start without the sudden changes that liquid fertilizers can cause. We're 100% organic this time too. For the germination, we also used Seedbooster as soon as it arrived with the last and first 75% water + 25% hydrogen peroxide - *** In my opinion, it's very important to add hydrogen peroxide if you start with the seed in a small glass of water. As soon as it's opened, it would drown too; the oxygen bubbles in the hydrogen peroxide prevent suffocation. www.plagron.com Our Karen Kush really started off like a rocket, the fastest of all. We just pretended to smoke the jar of the photoperiod version and we still have the incense flavor in our mouths. Great strain, great flavor and plant. This seedling started out very well; the other had trouble releasing the seed and placenta, and germination stalled. I'm germinating another one, it's arriving very soon. https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10783-zamnesia-seeds-karen-kush-auto.html Zamnesia Description - There's no need to complain about this strain: Karen Kush Auto will satisfy even the most demanding smokers with its dense flowers, fragrant terpenes, and high THC content. Created by crossing Monster Bud Kush, White Widow, and ruderalis, Karen Kush Auto boasts first-class genetics that leave no room for complaint. Inhale its sweet, spicy, and diesel aroma and enjoy the physical buzz that envelops you. After a few minutes, the only thing you'll want is a comfortable place to relax. And best of all, you won't find this strain anywhere else, as it was created by the geneticists at Zamnesia Seeds. www.zamnesia.com

Stardawg is looking like a star ⭐️.. really happy and healthy plant.. looking at it I can confirm it will be the most yielding plant of this run.. buds are big, fat and smelling that sativa that I love.. can’t wait to finish it ✨

Day 43 Stretching has now stopped and the buds are already swelling nicely. Seriously frosty as you can see. Feeding 2.5 liters every 2/3 days Day 45 Slight yellowing and minor deficiencys showing so upping the N and cal-mag and also adding pk boost

420Fastbuds FBT2302 Week 9 What up what up. Weekly update for these twins. Wow talk about some colas. These have some chunky colas that are just covered in crystals. I'll start checking trichs this week to see how they're looking I'll be looking for an 80/20 split of cloudy to amber. Not seeing to much fade yet but I'll still stop feeding nutes this week and start just giving pH water from there on out until harvest. All in all Happy Growing

Considering the tiny pot she gets a big dosis of Plagon nutrients every time I water. Still some nutrient deficiencies but that's inevitable in a 400ml container I'd say! 😇 She also got some homebrewed Stinging and Forest Nettle Tea, this plant is all about the Tea baby! And her buds will definately be enjoyed with a cup of Chai Tea 😆

I have watered her twice this week, once with 3l of rain water and once with 3,5l of rain water. I will probably up the volume a bit more next week. I upped the nutrition a bit despite the burned tips. I will not be home for the next 2 weeks so I will rely on other people to take care of my girls, the pics might be not up to standard.

Welcome to Flower week 7 of Fast Buds LemonPaya I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my FastBuds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Photo strain Lemonpaya : Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Fast buds • 💧 Humidity Range: 35 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 58 Days • Strain Info: 30%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 16l • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 600W x 2 A huge thank you to Fast Buds for allowing me to try my Best with this amazing collection from Automatic and Photo Strains they managed to Sponsore . Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!