So where do I start they are both the same strain but just growing completely different. The first picture is super frost growing strong while the second still seem to be in the beginning of flower stage. We will just keep an eye on it from week to week

💐 22 dias de flora. Muita resina, estrutura incrível.

These have been growing kind of slowly but I got the temps up a little this week by adding some extra light and am getting vpd dialed in. These will only be in this tent for a few more days I am just starting to harvest the main tent so once that is done they will be moved to the Gorilla Grow Tent and put under the new Growlightscience LEDs so we can see how the perform full cycle. The autos will have to get moved back into this tent once I flip the main tent but the photos will prob need a few weeks of veg before that happens. Been doing foliars with the Growzyme from greenbuzz as well before lights out every other night which seems to make them happy. I think theyll take off over the next couple weeks.

Beginning of week 8. They are doing well. Its starting to get smelly. Very sweet smell. They are full of trichoms and looking amazing. They stopped stretching and start fatting up.

Almost to flower lighting. Doing a high frequency fertigation. Due to the properties of the growing medium. Made up of pretreated coco coir at about 70%, the rest is perlite. It seems to be difficult to overwater. I found the coco for cannabis website and have been following their recommendations for feeding twice a day. Trying to keep the run off water at 20-30% of what I add to the top of the pot. EC readings comparisons to input values have made watering twice a day with less total water each time. Is the only way to keep my ec measurements within 400 or .400 depending on the meter. Of the input. So I don't want the run off to read higher than 400 micro semens ec reading than the original solution fed to the plant. Going to stick with it. Purple stems are on all the plants. So magnesium is not being absorbed as well or I don't know. Not enough in the nutrients. I'm skeptical to use magnesium sulfate. Very alkaline.

Some are swelling , one is smelling very different to the others . I seem to have 6 phenos from small to tall and rounded buds to thin spear shaped buds. I'm not sure which is my favourite yet but one has a very unique smell almost like pineapple and exodus cheese , it could be that one but I also like the bud formation on another,, we will see

2024.09.22 D84

Today was the day! Both girls have been chopped at day 55 of flower. Reason being is after 2 days of plain water **(I’m aware this is a short flush, but nutes were tapered down in the week leading up to this, then with plain non pH’d water there was 6 fertigations, 4l per plant per time over the last 48 hours - the runoff has been coming out plain 0.3EC tap water, same as the inflow).** The trichomes that we’re only cloudy on top had began to change over to amber and the lowers that were clear became milky after having plain water so I pulled them down for peak potency. Maybe could have had a couple days more but not the end of the world I am still very happy so far with the result from what I can see so far. I have just removed the largest fan leaves off and separated into branches or more like clusters of tops on branches. In a couple days I will probably remove a little more leaves or if they are drying evenly and nicely I will just remove them when I dry trim. They are now hung inside the tent, aiming for 18-20°C temps & set to 50% RH, hooked up to a Inkbird Humidity Controller and a dehumidifier. Hoping these will take a week to ten days to dry so the flavour and smell is not lost. Both Phenos of this strain have come out in beautiful colours under the torch on video, I can’t wait to see them both when their dry and all trimmed up in all their glory. That’s all for this week, in 7-10 days hopefully they are dry and I will update with the harvest week with the final weights and some trimmed up pictures! 🤙🏻🙏🏻💚

soo one was way more photogenic than the other 😅 also I know I put a lot of videos but I'm obsessed with this strain ok? it's amazing and I'm proud of me😁😁 oh and how DOPE is the timelapse? 🤯🔥🔥🔥🔥

Had to spray some medicine again as there was a few bite marks from spidermites. May not get rid of em but can keep them at a lower number until harvest otherwise I would love to get rid of em but don't know the likelihood of that happening. Currently in the tent at 12/12 light schedule and have the lights running at night so cold of the night doesn't stunt any growth.

Nov. 27 - Week 8 begins. Nov. 30 - It is amazing how resilient this plant is, the will to live is strong in this one. Dec. 3 - Week 8 comes to an end. I've been watering the nutrient solution down hoping to stop burning the leaves.

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

2020-08-17 Beginning of Week 9 of flowering! Wow! The buds in the middle are getting super frosty now and I noticed that I had some colas that had dipped below the light canopy. They're now back up on top! I am still giving nutrients as I don't see many amber trichomes yet but I am going into the tent without the LEDs on to take some more updated pics. Don't wanna miss my window as I prefer to be stimulated instead of sedated by cannabis. Hoping this strain delivers. IF anyone wants to comment on the 'readiness' of my buds for flushing (or not flushing) please leave a comment or message me! 2020-08-23 Updated with this week's entire set of pics! Trying to take more with the lights off and just the flash to capture the trichomes. Looks like the sugar leaves have more amber trichomes. I've been advised by at least one person that it's time to harvest. Still looking for more opinions! Cheers.

3 Weeks of VEGETATION I’m absolutely thrilled with how things are going. It has a rich, lush green color.🌱🌿 The cress I used as a mulch layer has grown beautifully and still looks really nice.😍 It handles full sun more than just fine... and the little Frostbanger seems to have adapted very well to the nutrient content of the Living Soil.

Day 9 I had no choice but to defoliate, the canopy was getting way to dense and humidity was hard to control even with my 30 pin dehumidifier. Hopefully will not affect to much. Probably I will do another defoliation on day 21. TDS stays at 550PPM this week and CO2 at 1200PPM.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Tout d'abord merci à @zami_official de zamnesia Seeds de me permettre de cultiver leurs fabuleuses génétiques ainsi que @Cellmax_Nutrients de me permettre de faire cette culture en m'offrant le substrat et l'engrais nécessaire à ce run. Cette souche sera ma première féminisée étant un jeune cultivateur (mars 2019) je voulais apprendre en cultivant des autofloraisons durant un an. Aujourd'hui nous y sommes enfin et pour ma première féminisée j'ai de grand projet, j'espère arriver à faire un main-lining de 32 buds et pour ce j'ai pas choisi une souche au hasard car j'ai opté pour la Bruce banner #3 de @zamnesia Je rappelle que je cultive par passion et que le rendement n'est pas ma priorité et que je n'utilise que le strict minimum du matériel nécessaire à une culture correcte au prix le plus bas possible MATÉRIEL CONFIGURATION Box 80×80×160 Lampe led Lampwin 300 watts ×2 Lampe COB led Macegrow 450 watts Ventilateur à pince 15 watts Xiaomi Deerma humidificateurs 5L Hygrometre thermomètre Extracteur PROFAN 107 m3/h - 100 Prise programmable électronique ×2 Pot 0.25 litre Pot 1 litre Pot 3 litres Pot 11 litres Pot 50 litres Cellmac nutriments Cellmax biobloom Cellmax biogrow Substrat cellmax bio ligthmix Fil de fer et pince coupante Microscope Petite balance de précision CULTURE ÉTAPE PAR ÉTAPE J'ai tout dabord fais tremper ma graine dans un petit verre d'eau pendant 12 heures dans le noir et je l'ai ensuite placé dans un Tupperware hermétiquement fermé entre de bouts de sopalin bien humidifié dans un endroit noir à environ 27 degrés celcus. Une fois la graine germé et d'une taille de 1 ou 2 centimètres je la prend délicatement et la dans un pot de 0.25l je recouvre de terre je tasse et arrose. Je place ma lampe led 300watts à environ 90 centimètres de la plantule avec un cycle de lumière de 24/24 pendant une semaine. Au début de la semaine 2 le cycle de lumière passera en 18/6 grace a un programmateur. Jour1: léger arrosage Jour2: léger arrosage eau ph 6.3 Jour3: léger arrosage Jour4: arrosage avec 10 centilitres d'eau ph 6.3 à laquelle j'ai ajouté 5 millilitres de cellmax rootbooster Jour5 arrosage

Hello guys, Here I am again to present you a new run, still with the best leds of the market nevertheless as I changed my growing space from 120x120 to 150x150. So I had to update the material inside... I will run with 3 EVO 5-150 lamps of 320W or 960W with Bluetooth dimmers. For the Hydro system, it will be the V-SYSTEM from Alienhydroponics. In fertilizers I am always with Advanced Nutrients. I work with osmosis water. Currently, 4 clones took on 4. Once the roots are ready, I will transfer the cuttings from the propagator to the V-SYSTEM. ------------------------ since the 16/08, when I transplanted the plants in the RDWC system, I noticed some points that I will mention below and correct next time. 1. The cuttings are too small, allow enough time so that I can completely fill my pots with clay balls. 2. Cut out the bottom of the pots from the cuttings. 3. 3/4 of the cuttings are touching the water, so one is late. Next time when transplanting, add more water, up to the basket in order to immerse all the plants and not to create a difference between each one, consequence now I have 3 that are ready to explode and one that will struggle behind, problem corrected today by increasing the volume of water. 4. The b-52 is a real pain in the ass in RDWC, you have to clean the 2 filters almost every day, with this new soup I'm testing without and I think I'll continue like this just with the base sensi grow A and B, as I use Root rot X, I won't use voodoo juice since all the bacteria would be killed. 5. Use of Voodoo Juice is useless if using Root Rot X which will kill the bacteria. I don't know why but when I transplanted in the RDWC, I put my set up in growth mode, except that the plants were not ready for it, moreover, I made a FIM on each. So I lost some days, these last days I went back to a ppdf of 150, now that my roots touch the water, I declare growth 0 on 22/08, I will do between 21 and 28 days of growth. And as my roots are doing well and touching the water I'll go to a PPFD of 300 ++