I'm just gunna post videos until things get interesting, I'm not winning any awards anytime soon anyways on here but when it counts In the last few weeks I'll do the pics. Its day 31 here and everything looks pretty good.

This plant plus one more started to wilt earlier on in the week, I figured it was probably time to transplant seeing as they had been in the solo cups for 2 weeks. After transplant plants seemed to be happy again. I introduced amino acids this week as well. They are getting the grease spray and drench program

Performed the "back building" technique this week to help bulk up the top cola. Watering the soil when dry, and defoliating the dry-dying fan leaves.

Tag 65 Heute wurde sie nun geerntet und sie hat ein Naßgewicht von 389 Gramm Beschert. Jetzt trocknen wir sie und dann sehen wir was am ende überbleibt.

I cannot talk up wicked genetics enough man,they are strong and stable plants and honestly since the temps have been continuing to drop these suckers have been LOVING IT!!! I am going to start some boston kreme pie S1s very shortly for my indoor grow. I have so many amazing strains from wicked I can't wait for this winter it's going to be insanity 🤯😵😵‍💫😎

Hey all, Its been a few weeks so lets take a peak at our Blueberry manifold. Last time we topped our girl down to the 3rd node and removed all other growth except the two growth tip and their fan leaves. Over the past two weeks shes continued to grow an addition four pairs of leaves on each arm. This wee we will cut those branches back to the 3rd node and then clean all other growth from the plant except what remains on the 1st and 3rd node of each side. This should give us 8 main colas that will grow up from these eight remaining growth tips. Continuing to feed as normal while trying to get the soil PH up to a proper level.

02/01/2021 Will update when dried and cured, smells sweeet! Very candy like sticky but have grown stickier strains, nice colors hope it looks as good dried. Greens and purples are striking! See ya next week Ps I will not do this monster cropping again good harvest but too much trimming! If I do I'll train longer into better shape. But I learned how not to do it next time. Should have vegged longer and training would have helped, I just wanted to experiment.🙏 Getting back to soil and putting Hydroponics away for a while. I will grow outside this summer to see how she does, I'm curious to see how she handles PW outside, no issues inside. Got a little PW but it didn't spread and didn't see it again. Also got all my trimmings(about 1 ounce) in the freezer, going to try and make dry sift once I figure out how. 10 days since harvest. Burbping jars once a day still releasing moisture. 02/23/2021 Smoke session time been curing 3 weeks.

Week 1 of veg and nothing to report. Plant only on water for another few weeks. Training will start next week and maybe top if needed. I am so looking forward to this plant.

Buds are starting to mature.

These two are looking like their gonna be different pheno types cause Grapey Walter #1 has remained short and wide af but Grapey Walter #2 is towering over all the others in height which shouldent be a problem, also Grapey Walter #1 is flowering a bit slower than the rest 👌🏻 Still looking good, starting to frost up now also added an 4” air intake and hung it up to blow air across the canopy.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

📆 Semana 8 La Sticky Queen entra en su última semana antes del cierre total. Los cogollos se endurecen y compactan al máximo, con una resina abundante y brillante que cubre cada cálice. Los pistilos siguen oscureciéndose y los morados se intensifican en las zonas mejor iluminadas, realzando su carácter visual y aromático. El aroma se vuelve más profundo: dulce, afrutado y con un trasfondo terroso que envuelve todo el espacio. Los riegos se reducen al mínimo necesario y la planta termina de concentrar sus nutrientes en flores y resina, mientras la ventilación mantiene el ambiente óptimo. 🌸 Última semana de engorde: potencia, color y resina afinándose para el gran final. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Good morning all Day 63 and everything goes wonderfully I think for most that feels the end. Some begin senescence including my gorilla glue from fastbuds and northen light auto from RQS I start rinsing all of my 5 plants except the bubblegum which has not started to flower after 63 days I specify that in terms of performance the blueberry auto of pev seeds and the most prolific it is beautiful. 😍 The gorilla glue from fast_buds is smaller but is not left behind because it is loaded with nitroglycerine 😋 We are no longer far from the harvest I am doing a final defolliation in order to let the light reach the lower heads I think that within a week for some to two weeks for others they will all be harvested What a pleasure for this run even if the weather is long approaching the harvest ... patience is the mother of all the virtues 😉 May the strength be with me 💪 And in french langage Bonjour a tous Jour 63 et tout ce passe à merveille je pense que pour la plupart cela sent la fin . Certaines commencent la senescence notamment ma gorilla glue de chez fastbuds ainsi que la northen light auto de chez RQS Je commence le rinçage de la totalité de mes 5 plants hormis la bubblegum qui n'a toujours pas commencée à fleurir après 63jours Je précise que en terme de rendement la blueberry auto de pev seeds et la plus prolifique elle est magnifique. 😍 La gorilla glue de chez fast_buds est plus petite mais n'est pas en reste car chargée à la nitroglycérine 😋 Nous sommes plus très loin de la récolte j'effectue une dernière defolliation en vue de laisser la lumière atteindre les têtes du bas Je pense que d'ici une semaine pour certaines à deux semaines pour d'autres elles seront toutes récoltées Quel plaisir pour ce run même si le temps ce fais long à l'approche de la récolte... la patience est mère de toute les vertus 😉 Que la force soit avec moi 💪

Tuesday, August 4th: This is the first time I've ever had a pH problem in living soil. Soil pH was waayyyyy too high (7.9, so I flushed it out with 5.5pH-6.1pH dolomite lime water, yesterday. Today, after I post this (9am), she'll be getting another flush of just 5.5pH purified water. Then, I'll top her off with a couple gallons of pHed BuildaBloom and Dolomite Lime water. Hopefully, this will take care of the problem. You'll see the signs of pH problems and cal/mag deficiencies in some leaves throughout the video. Anyway. As you can see, she was bent in half during a very bad storm. So, I just kind of half-assed propping her up. I still need to actually tie her up well before those nugs get any bigger.

Only week 2, so nothing exciting yet but the seedlings obviously are surviving the hardest part lol. I cant wait till these start booming in a week or so. Ive heard they grow fast as hell. Im excited to grow these autos right here. Looking strong. I will be LST right when the first true leaves grow in well to maximize yield as much as possible. Wont be topping it.

- Day 1 week 2 flow: watered them with 1,5 L ph 6,4 to 6,5 following biobizz schedule. Growing big and tall right now. - Day 2 week 2 flow: just checking factors and controlling humidity and air flow - Day 3 week 2 flow: not much to do, checking the tent to watch them grow:) - Day 4 week 2 flow: watered them with 1,5 L ph 6,4 to 6,5 following biobizz schedule. Defoliation has been made and humidity is the biggest challenge. Small tent and difficult air flow. - Day 5 week 2 flow: had to adjust light height and change it to full power. The limits of my setup but it’s ok not planing to do something too big :) - Day 6 week 2 flow: beautiful girls, hairs are coming ou - Day 7 week 2 flow: watered them with 1,5 L ph 6,4 to 6,5 following biobizz schedule. They have grown a lot this week, love how they can just almost double their size in flow.

Day 70 such a great harvest.. plant 1 45oz, plant 2 41 oz, plant 3 35oz. big think buds and an great smell.

Se sueltan amarras de LST y se deja de tejer en la malla. Ramas presentan crecimiento del 100% durante la semana. Se sube un par de cms la malla. Defoliación selectiva en día 14. Riego por medio con fertilizantes. Riegos abundantes solo con agua. Pistilos comienzan a ser más notorios. Leve olor. Poda de bajos en una semana más. Ventilador en mínimo durante la noche. Al máximo durante el día.

Week 7 begins for LSD. She's bulking up, packing lots of frost and she's got a killer sweat berry citrus smell. Switched out big bud coco for overdrive. Thanks for stopping by, tune in next week for another episode 👽🌳🔥