Estamos a meio da 2° semana a crescer bem ja cm boa ramificação mas a dar indicios de falta de magnezio, mais uma semana começa o lst Afinal vai começou mais cedo q o esperado.. a crescer muito rápido, mais uns dias estamos no inicio da 3°semana

D64 - We're at the start of the fifth week of flower, and the girls are looking better day by day. However, a few days I noticed very minor leaf damage on two leaves on the second girl that "might" be thrips damage. It's not a huge deal since the girls will finish in two to three weeks, but I figured it would be prudent to be proactive before the next grow, so I ordered some Cucumeris predatory mites. They arrived today, and I hung a sachet with mites on each girl. D68 - Today, I disconnected the Inkbird controller and humidifier that kept the humidity in the tent high. It is getting towards the end of flower, and I want to decrease the RH in the tent to avoid botrytis. I also set the exhaust fan to run constantly. I hope that will be enough as there isn't enough space in the tent to fit a dehumidifier. #tinytentproblems D69 - The humidity in the tent is still too high for my liking so I had to get creative. I drilled a hole in my dehumidifier so that it can hang in the tent. It's only a small dehumidifier and not very powerful but the tent is tiny and the dehumidifier should be enough to drop the RH by around 10%. D70 - We have reached the end of the fifth week of flower and the girls are rocking it in the tent and their buds are getting fatter as each day passes by. It's only a waiting game at this point although a game where I'm trying to avoid budrot. I adjusted the light schedule yesterday so that the hottest hours of the tent are during the coldest hours of the day. That should even out the temps a bit, and I also keep a flap open on the tent to further reduce the temperature and humidity. The girls are looking great and I would hate to get botrytis and lose part of the harvest.

D50. The start of the third week of flower, and all is well in the tent. She is very dense and super compact, and I think I need to defoliate her soon to increase airflow and prevent budrot. ------------------------------ D51. I removed a few leaves to increase light penetration and airflow. I also calibrated my Hygrometer since I've noticed lately that it seemed a bit off. Sure enough, it was off by 7%. ------------------------------ D54. There's nothing to report as she is just doing her thing without any help from me. I'm going out of town for a week, and she will be left to her own devices. ------------------------------

Day 64. they been moved to main tent ! All this week pure water, they should adapt not only to main lights, but i took Mars Hydro SP 150 and made mini side lightning for them. hope it will help. main tent plants are a lot bigger and cast shades ... still not a right time for defoliation, but with better lightning i hope them to develop quicker and i think i will do it ! Day 69. Transplantation day !!! Girls run out old shoes and it's time for bigger ! Went for 10 gallons pots. Heavily cleared bottoms and lolipoped them. Amount of waist would be enough for few nice plants ;))) This strain would perform amazingly with scrog , no doubts ! But I have no space .... ;(((((( Happy Growing !!!

The Sour Diesel is definitely in need of some nuts, came back from my 2 weeks vacation and it's looking a little too light for my taste . Will be feeding it some flowering mix pretty soon

There have been many new strains that are showing us what the Zamnesia breeders are capable of, after a few revisited classics, this time we have an absolute novelty called Cosmi Noodles. We really liked this photoperiodic right from the start. Very suitable for growing indoors because it is a plant with very low internodal distance, which gives it a wonderful appearance. This type of plant is very graceful and suitable for growing straight even with a few more weeks of veg if you want to see a beautiful beast. I let it vegetate for 5 weeks and it came out very beautiful, really elegant, symmetrical in the "secondary" buds if that's how they can be clear because all the quality of the flowers is excellent. Hard, solid like curly, resinous to the right point, truly a pure beauty. This time we have two plants in the same diary. The first plant, my favorite, grew straight, we love Main Cola so much when they form beautiful, giant and straight. Giving up main cola is a choice, if you want to do it please do it is a choice that can cause nostalgia. So from next time I will grow a plant almost straight without doing almost anything to Main Cola pienop and a plant with the techniques. The second plant I did little topping, it is not in my style but at a certain point I decided to do so to go into flowering not bad at all but I prefer the straight one the flowers are very similar the phenotype is almost the same. The strain is of the highest quality Zamnesia is working hard to give you superior quality strains I advise you to try them, if you do not believe my words that are of a poor sinner, look at the images. Perfect strain compliments to Zamnesia breeder. Most likely nowadays those who give the impression of doing Cannabis Industry manage to provide a product of extreme quality much more than the small breeders who are all stealing strains from California and crossing them with their little experiments. It is no longer the era of the flower children although we have to thank them for the anarchic work they did in the 60s and 70s now it's time to work well, cannabis is spreading all over the world and you can compete with the Americans only by working well, like they do in Zamnesia. How can I prove it to you? In the years in which I was a tester the breeders made me try a lot of good stuff but often, very often, too often I found hermaphrodites. Now always bringing up good luck, touching wood, where the sun don't shine, doing all the appropriate spells of the case we are at ZERO HERMAPHRODITES. No seeds, no balls, nothing at all and after all the years that I have heard the "expert freaks" of breeding talk now I feel like recommending the seeds of the industries much more than the small houses. Zamnesia Strain Description // Cross of Alien OG and Rollercoaster Haze, Cosmic Noodles offers excellent yields and extraordinary aromas. This variety is very powerful, contains 25% THC and produces intense and long-lasting effects. Stimulating and relaxing at the same time, Cosmic Noodles causes an energizing cerebral effect that fades over time becoming soothing at a physical level. - Get a seed of this fantastic strain --- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/10777-zamnesia-seeds-cosmic-noodles.html The plant has eaten the 100% Organic feeding of Plagron: Alga Grow and Alga Bloom as basic nutrients, the rooting Power Roots, the amino acids of Sugar Royal, the Enzymes of Pure Zym that eat the dead parts in the soil, Power Buds that always gives us immense satisfaction with rapidity of start of flowering and composition of the buds, the legendary Green Sensation that now needs no introduction, a name a guarantee. Also the foliar Vita Race used for the first time with success. The fertilizer kits that you can find on the Zamnesia website are perfect for this purpose, there is everything. Choose them based on their mineral/organic composition and the soil you have chosen. at the link --- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11457-plagron-easy-pack-natural.html The quantity was measured using the sheet prepared on purpose on the Plagron website based on the soil chosen: Plagron Pro Mix + Perlite. at the link --- https://plagron.com/en The growbox is the DS120w by Secret Jardin as well as the DF16 ventilation system and all the fans at the link --- https://www.secretjardin.com/it/ The light was supplied in the past by Viparspectra and it went crazy but it came back to me to produce very well too... at the link --- https://www.viparspectra.com A fantastic selection of seeds, a headshop and a selection of exceptional accessories on the world of cannabis, many other things about mushrooms, health, well-being and all the beautiful things that nature offers only on the Zamnesia website at the link --- www.zamnesia.com Instagram ---- @zam.nesia - @zamnesiawebshop - @zamnesia_usa - @bread_n_buds

12/23/2020 Coming into week #5 flower will add overdrive this and next week. Should be bulking up soon I'm still resistant to defoliating but I must clean up some older leaves. 05/27/2020 Finally got to defoliating a little today buds everywhere! Holy crap! Gave her some overdrive in her reservoir bucket swap, also next week I believe.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

I'm quite impressed by this week's development. She is starting to show her fatness. I did a flush at the beginning of the week and it helped a lot. Now I'm starting to give her less and less nuts, as she shows obvious tip burns and quite gark green leaves. I believe she will be ready in no more than 8 weeks of flower.

Zkittlez - Growers Choice Day 52 - watered with 2L of RO tap water with defined above nutrients, mixed in order and pH'd to 6.3. She has started her stretching phase of flower and is rocketing up , she is also developing her bud sites - during this phase, I tend not to perform any training or defoliation as it will stress her and limit her growth. So for now, I'm just watering and observing her 🙏🏻

Plants are growing at a nice pace especially dealing with the extra high PH runoff

AutoBlueberry 5th-6th W/ Veg breed by #DivineSeeds #DivineSeedsSquad #DivineSeedsBreedingCompany Origin:Afghani/Thai Type:50% Indica/ 40% Sativa/ 10% Ruderalis Flowering:56 days THC:22% Harvest:400-550 g/m2 Height:110-150 cm They were Growing under the #Growatt600w and in my #TopoLite 24×24×48 Grow Tent but I've Upgraded and Updated it to my #OsreeQB100W I'm also using #TNBNaturals #TheEnhancer Co2 Despersal Canister and using thier Ph⬆️⬇️ for my Decolinated Tap Water! Green and Growing Up Great! She's Growing into her 6th week of Veg! She's Growing in my special blend of ProMix potting mix, a 1/2 bag of Earthworm castings and 2 light handfuls of Diatomaceous Earth mixed Up well for before transplanted! Diatomaceous Earth: Diatomaceous earth is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. Their skeletons are made of a natural substance called silica. WHAT IS DIATOMACEOUS EARTH? In a nutshell, DE comes from the fossilised remains of small marine organisms called diatoms. Over a 30 million year period, these hard-shelled algae collected on the bottom of bodies of water, eventually forming into a type of sedimentary rock. Fast forwarding, it wasn’t until around 1836 that a German peasant Peter Kasten discovered the ivory-coloured, powdery substance while drilling a well in northern Germany. Ever since, the usefulness of DE for multiple purposes, including industrial and horticultural applications, has been well-reported. Just sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on top of your soil and watch mother nature's secret weapon work its magic.CONDITIONS THE SOIL When it comes to growing cannabis, everyone strives to provide the best soil to grow the best plants—but there’s always a way to make it even better. Making the soil a better medium is called soil conditioning, which is exactly what diatomaceous earth does. It works by improving the retention of moisture in your potting soil, holding a large amount of fluid and drying at a rate that’s much slower. This natural soil additive also helps to retain nutrients and allows for better oxygenation of the substrate. NATURALLY CONTROLS PESTS DE is an all-natural, safe-to-use substance that doesn’t harm the cannabis plant with toxic chemicals. The nature of diatomaceous earth makes it useful against most types of insect infestation you might be experiencing; and unlike chemical insecticides, insects can’t develop a resistance to the effects of DE. So once they’re gone, they’re gone for good. DE is an abrasive. and when used as an insecticide, it gradually scrapes away an insect’s exoskeleton, absorbs the fluids, and dehydrates insects and other critters to eventual death. IMPROVES PLANT STABILITY When using DE in your soil, it can be especially beneficial as it frees up nutrients so that they are made available to the plants as needed. This works via the silica content of DE being absorbed into the plant tissue, which helps improve the plant’s ability to respond and receive more nutrients as DE activates. This in turn results in greater yields and better stability under small pH fluctuations! https://divineseeds.net/ https://instagram.com/divine.seeds?igshid=osxe2v7en33v https://divineseeds.net/ Thanks Again to All my Friends, Family's, Teams, Sponsors, Followers and Subscribers!!! Your Genetics are Merry Magnificent, Mega Marvelous and Mighty Medical! Love um!!! I really Can't stress enough how Thankful and Grateful I am of All of you and what you've Shared with Us! Means the World!!! It's definitely a Pleasure being able to Grow with these Phenomenal Grow Lights! Please Enjoy! BudBrothers4-Life! Cheers Famz!!! Much Props and Much Topz!💯🔥 #Osree #GrowStarStore #Growatt #TNBNaturals #TNBTeam #GrowYourOwn #Bliss https://instagram.com/as420.ca?igshid=1f116alw054wp The Grow Bags: https://www.as420

27.03 Week’s not over yet but wanted to share a little video of progress. The girls have some issues, but after caving and grabbing some pH paper and fixing the water pH, I’m hoping they’ll not suffer too much. For the stunt queens this was when their issues exacerbated, but they did start off with a set back. Also new baby in the tent! Last before Mary Jane Berlin. Futile attempt at picking out cat hair also captured. Don’t at me, I grow just for me, ain’t no stopping it, just minimising it. 31.03 Not much to say other than the tent seems to have gone from a fairly green fresh scent to more pungent in a few days. Both plants smell lovely when I rub a leaf between my fingers, curious to see how they develop these coming few weeks. Hoping the pH-ing will fix some issues, and else we’re heading for another aggressive defoil. Considering the headstart these girls have on the stunt queens, I’m not too worried about it hurting the harvest.

DAY 14 of flower🌸🌼 G41 BiG bushy pheno Feed Compost & SST tea No Bottles no Nutes

Had a bit of a bad week with the girls in flower tent also had few issues with the ph @6.3 been to high causing a few problems had to defoliate all affected leaves hopefully they will bounce back

Wächst und gedeiht äußerst prächtig...Insgesamt stabile Seitentriebe Zudem wurde sie im unteren Drittel etwas entlaubt

Harvest time! 😁 everything looking good so far, plants are quite healthy check www.sr-organics.com and get a 10% discount on this great 5in1 fertilizer with "UNKRAUT10"