Bewässerung: 500 ml jeden 3 Tag in der Dritten Woche pH-Wert: 5,9 EC-Wert: 1 mS/cm Temperatur: 26ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 55% Schädlingsbekämpfung: im Moment haben wir keine Anzeichen das es was zu bekämpfen gibt, sobald die ersten Anzeichen da sind werden wir handeln :) PPFD: 200 µmol/m²/s DLI: 15 mol/m²/Tag Düngemittel: Sie bekommt CalMag von BioBizz zu Prävention. Ab Tag 8 haben wir angefangen sie mit einem Mineralischen NPK Dünger (NPK 10-4-7) zu Gießen . Besonderheiten: Sie wird etwas länger im Vorzuchtzelt bleiben da wir das Hauptzelt umbauen und es erst in 2 Wochen wieder bereit haben. -Tag 15 Heute haben wir sie wieder mit Dünger gegossen, sie wächst sehr gut und ist bald zum Toppen bereit. -Tag 18 Heute wurde sie wieder gegossen und wir haben angefangen mit Mineralischen (NPK 10-4-7) zu Düngen. Sie wurde heute auch getoppt und muss sich jetzt erholen. -Tag 20 Sie hat sich gut vom Toppen erholt und die triebe bilden sich gut aus. Wir haben nun mit dem LST begonnen und sie hat heute auch eine Behandlung mit Nematoden gegen Trauermücken bekommen, es sind doch mehr als erwünscht unterwegs 😣

Deep fried Runts remix is growing a little slow but nothing to complain about I did three Plants of the strain doing a little hunting try to find that good stuffI’m sure the will be great but so far so good with the growing a deep fried runts remix number three is not doing well But has stopped growing altogether not sure what the Hells going on with that but number one and number two are doing well Growth has picked up I’m very excited about this strain this year number 3 pheno did not make the cut so I pulled it pheno 1 and 2 are growing well

Hello, Day 63, Flower Phase , PGK, Final weeks of flower phase is started, Day 84 or week 12, I am planing to harvest the plant, Trichomes still cloudy and buds looks grate, smells also like tropical Mango ))) cant wait to smoke this )))). Thanks Week 9 - Flower Phase Day 63 - 5/01/23 Day 64 - 6/01/23

A new week with new developments :). Not much to report but the girls are doing really well. Pistils are popping up left right and centre. The stretch on both plants has actually been less leggy than I'm used to from this strain. Ive just been doing straight water feeds with no added liquid seaweed and no top amendments to the soil this week. As you can see the girls really aren't in need of any more nutrients at this time but next week I'll be feeding with liquid seaweed again and the next top amendment dressing isn't due for another three weeks along with another defoliation to allow light to those lower bud sites. I have done some tying down just to ensure a more even canopy for better light penetration to the lower growth. Since I haven't got a lot to report I took a couple of videos and some photos for you all to enjoy. If you guys like the content of this diary please drop me a like or drop a comment on what you think I could do better or include in future posts? Until next week! ✌️

another week of great growth check www.sr-organics.com for some topnotch 5 in 1 fertilizer! root, growth, bloom, micro-organisms, enzymes & vitamins all in one! CODE: "Unkraut10" for 10% Discount! 😊

Happy Christmas every one Growths been good topped all plants topped a couple multiple times Only feeding them roots water and enzymes for now giving them 500ml everyday There looking a bit on the skinny side so will be adding some silicon at some point this week Ad quite a thew problems with the other diaries so it's nice when this one going right you know what they say you can't make the same mistake

Here comes the first Preflower Update

I am awaiting her soil to dry out and I will be transferring her to the 25 gallon pot. She is ready for flowering.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Had my controller shut my lights down, luckily I caught it but lost around 9 hours light. I’ve had to leave my grow a few times for medical reasons but I will say this is one stinky strain! And it’s very frosty! Being my 1st ever hydro run I took it very easy so I will run this strain again when my skills are up to par because this has some serious potential!

Week 7 of flowering 10/30/24 Changed nutrients to fit week 7 Buds are getting even bigger and thicker. Last week PH drop happened again a couple of days after the major flush. PH in rootzone is getting lower every day. Runoff still at 10-20%, so no salt buldup, EC same as intake or litttle higher. Flushed again with FloraKleen and watered with TriPart Micro, Grow, Bloom with CalMag. Bought Potassium Bicarbonate and Calcium Carbonate as suggested by "Aqua Man", to buffer coco in the future. (https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/ph-dropping-from-5-8-to-3-9-overnight-what-is-causing-this.87011/post-2329509) changed nutes on 11/2/24, to FinalPart at 1.3 EC. Checking runoff PH and EC daily.

Huge yield of sticky buds, took 12 weeks from seed and filled a full 1.2m tent. Needed quite a bit of maintenance so happy to reach harvest day. Ran simple nutrients, slight foxtailing at the end, but most buds in the net are around 100g each plus ( and the net is full! and still a whole plant hanging with fat buds👍

The lady's are a bit shocked after the ✂️ decapitation (topping) on 10-05. going for 6/8 cola's per plant👌 Stay tuned growmies 💚

The stealth bucket seems to have scarred a few of the leaves that’s been trying to grow out on the sides.

Everything is going smoothly.

Brocoli buds!🥦 Super sticky & delicious smell its just sweet🤤 When you smell the amnesia Z she seems to be kind but trust me roller coaster effect !🎢

Ill have to update the final results in 4 weeks. Plants are still drying and I gave it my best guess.

Hello dear ones 😌 I hope you had a few nice warm days here in Germany, the plant really enjoyed it. Since it's been warm during the day she's been getting 16/8 again and she loves it. This also enabled me to take photos that reveal their true beauty. At the beginning of the cup I really thought to myself: Oh God, how is this going to work? But at that point, I didn't even know what was still in store for me... There were many events, both positive and negative, and the plant noticed this. She had to endure a lot because of these circumstances; I couldn't give her the warmth she needed and I had to completely change her light cycle. I haven't even changed the water in the dwc since the first week of flowering because it's not financially possible at the moment. But Zamnesia seems to have done a good job with the breeding, because the genetics are strong and do not hermaphrodite despite high stress: LST Fimming light stress.The Auto Runtz smells grazy fruity and I'm just thrilled THANK YOU ZAMNESIA ❤️ I also have to commend Advanced Nutrients for the starter kit with the PH Perfect Sensi Grow and Bloom. Since I switched to economical, I'll definitely be able to complete the run.And I don't have any problems even though I don't change the water. The plant is actually my 2nd run and I have to say in the DWC game changer🙏🏻😌❤️ Let's come to Green Sensation by Plagron: Since I know a run without it, and now this one, I just ask myself:What kind of green magic juice is this?Through Green Sensation I have to say, this has become by far my thickest plant at this stage Than I ever harvested. Plagron, you have made a magic potion that enables me to produce large, thick flowers despite poor conditions. 🔥🙏🏻❤️ A big thank you goes out again to Zamnesia and Plagron for creating this great cup and giving me the opportunity to take part.I'm looking forward to the end, and I'm happy for everyone.I hope you have learned a lot so far and that, regardless of whether you win or not, you are still proud of yourselves.🙏🏻 Added some pictures On Friday, May 9th 🔥😉❄️❄️ In 2 days the next flowering week begins, and it's starting to explode 😂❤️❄️❄️