La SF2000 spinge al massimo da qualche giorno e si vede che c’è una bella copertura nella tenda (4x4) cerchiamo di farle stare bene perché le 4 gorilla 🦍 hanno avuto carenze importanti perché ho fatto dei pasticci verso la 4 settimana, speriamo che riescano a riprendere il meglio possibile…le altre tre piante più giovani invece vanno che è una meraviglia 🤩, ora iniziano a mangiare come si deve

7 eme semaine tout se passe parfaitement bien, très peu de place quatre pieds J'ai comparé par rapport a d'autre 7eme semaine je pense être bon, aussi je vais changer d'engrais après cette cult pour GHE pas la jolie bouteille biobizz qui m'a avait été recommandé par culture indoor 11

I wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smileI wish they didn't make me do this to get a smile

not all the ladys are drom the same time 5 are 2 weeks ahead 1is West coast OG auro and all 10are Amnesia haze auto,

Gut

hey guys so a few weeks have gone by sorry been a few weeks but i wm upoeupoer busy with work at moment wnother month and iam on my holidays 😀new tent arrive also got myself 2x 1500watt cob led lights one of which is in new tent other is in with my photo strains and clones 😀 all looking fab coming to an end soon . Willl update again soon

ॐ MOBY DICK from BARNEY'S FARM "Bedroom setup" 10th week of flowering from 12.1.2026. to 18.1.2026. but content of pictures is from 12.1.2026. to 22.1.2026. Harvest week :) also drying days included. Harvest was done after 4 days of darkness (15.1.2025.) i did heavy wet trim and let them hang for few days before puting them in nets, after some days in net, i removed all buds from stems and put all in jars, will burp them for next few weeks every few days. Trough drying process(10days) i took 25g for somoking. and with that included weight of dry bud was 992grams, also i forgot about first two braches which i removed and smoked while platns was alive at end of week 9 which was 18g, so all in all around 1kg with 13 plants. Here with these 13 plants which i had is three phenos, maybe only two plants was real Moby Dick (pheno no1), these others (most of them) was mix between G13Haze and WhiteWidow, with strong domination of WW over the G13Haze (pheno 2), and one plant was where G13Haze was more dominant over WW (pheno 3). All buds are dense and rich with trichomes, smell is citrusy and very very strong. This buds hiting hard, very strong sativa which i rly like :) Moby Dick was very easy to grow, plants rly liked heavy training, and once again Barney's Farm genetics did great for me. :) Take care and much love. ॐ

Start Flush

I'm pretty much on auto pilot at this point.. im still just feeding compost extracts to keep it simple. There's a couple things I want to point out this week; I've also included a video of my cheese auto and no extra cost to the reader 😅🤣 PROCESS/ENVIRONMENT CHANGES - I've lowered the temp inside my tent a little bit to help keep my VFD between a good range for flower (1.0 - 1.5). I also changed the RH on my humidity controller when the temperature goes down after the lights go off. It's kind of a hassle but it's the only way I can stay in the range I'm looking for. - I've started to raise the pH of my water slowly... I want it to be between 6.6. And 6.8 at this point. - I've increase all my lights.. my Sf4000 is at 85% intensity and both my Ts1000s are sitting at around 75% intensity. - I've increased all my fans running. My intake is maxed out, my exhaust is on '6' and my fans inside my tent are all maxed out.. the cheese auto is drowning my entire house out hahaha its crazy. -I've cut off a whole bunch of fan leaves, larf, bottom branches and a bunch of other unwanted stuff.. I'm hoping that she thickens up fairly like some of her sister's in the tent 🤞 cutting off all the unwanted junk might help at least move more air at the bottom of the canopy.. at most it will help direct energy to other parts of the plant therefore producing a better flower. If she does fill out I'll have to support her side branches so they don't fall over. - Every day I rotate the plants in my tent so that the get to experience the light in different ways. Add me on IG for more updates @Wrongholn519

finally the scorching sun came having moved the plants from under the canopy outdoors a downpour created a bit of mold in a small part of the skywalker and also to the little cherry i later removed it and sprayed the plants with garlic infused water now i'm the bomb i'm fertilizing with long awaited organic vermicompost, the plants are perfect, i think i will delay the harvest for the cherry to make it gain a little more weight at the expense of the flavors the flavors are amazing absurd...i ordered some clones by freakshow humbolt seeds I also made new transfers with old seeds tried to germinate and they went splendidly.honey cream and special queen by royal queen seeds

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

Strech has been manageable and plant is healthy, not one leaf yellowed or showed any signs of deficiency/excess. Will defoliate at day 14 if the second week strech is alot, if not, then at day 21. Watering twice a day with 1 gallon per watering and I add fish shit and tribus bloom together every other watering day (so 3x per week) and recharge will only be used on Saturdays going forward.

Starting into Week 5 Flower, week 11 total Mandarin Cookies definitely has an extremely strong orange citrus smell! Trichomes are coming in very nicely! MC’s are still ahead of the SK’s... however the SK on the left is catching up, with the one on the right having some budlets starting to form. 3 - Madarin Cookies are two in back and one in center; 2 - Silver Kush are two up front; 2 gallons water/nutes per 5 plants, alternating with plain water (just calmag, malassis, Ph. 6.4) every other day. Ph.6.4 (1.5 C.F.) Fox Farm Ocean Forest, mixed with (1.5 C.F.) garden soil, fills (5) 5 galllon fabric pots perfectly. (50/50 mix.) The new version of Spider Farmer SF-4000 is an awesome light, for anyone wondering. Can’t say enough good things about this light! Way less heat that any HPS/MH I’ve used. My big curiosity is about the final weight per watts used at finish for the Spider Farmer... UPDATE Week 5, Day 6: I did notice some heat stress on only a few of the taller branches (they were about 6” from the light). I did move the light a little further up about 4” to get some distance, and added an extra fan. Hope this helps the leaf curling! Question: have you ever driven past a house and can instantly tell they just harvested?? Ha! I just did that on my way home, and thought I was smelling my house from a long distance away.

2/20 - finally got all of the top spread out across the edge of the pot. Also defoliated all of the older fan leaves. I'm not sure if I need to take off the lower shoots that are starting around each top... 2/21 - flush feeding, tops are starting to point up except for one weakling which I took the binds off of to let her get her strength back 2/23 - things are looking great so far, the one top that was weak regained strength and is back to bindings. This is the cleanest training I've done so far I think! 2/25 - week 9 nute feeding, same as week 8 minus the Kelp and the normal amount of Terpinator. I will be taking off some shoots starting on each top.

After germination i putted into a 200 ml plastic cup and watered only with water, 20 ml/day. Day 1 = 20ml water Day 2 = 20ml water Day 3 = 20ml water Day 4 = 20ml water Day 5 = 20ml water Day 6 = 20ml water Day 7 = 20ml water

*Week 3 Flower - 09/10* Blimburn Apple Fritter - Seedsman Genetics Critical+2.0 Healthy - 0 signs on of deficiencies Most fan leaves have been stripped; - Lighter defoliation - Aggressive LST on main colas *Week 3 Flower Mid-week update 09/13* Approximately 3 inch increase in Height on both plants - Critical+2.0 - Seedsman Genetics - Blumburn Apple Fritter 1 Gallon increase on water feed (Nutes included) Budsite density has increased. Light defoliation *End of week recap 09/16* (Week 3 Flower) BlimBurn - Apple Fritter - 47 Inches - Flowering processing accordingly - 0 deficiencies Seedsman Genetics - Critical+2.0 - 46 Inches - Flowering processing accordingly - 0 deficiencies Increased water feed (2.5 gallons every day +Nutes) *SEE UPDATE END OF WEEK VIDEO RECAP*

The little ones are developing well, unfortunately there are a few minor nutrient problems in the direction of Calmag with the Morello Cherries and also slight signs of this with the TerpyZ Punch. I counteracted this with a foliar spray. The pH value of the hydrosystem has unfortunately dropped a little to 5.5, which I have equalised with ph up from Plagron. The plants are currently getting light between 800-900 ppfd and as soon as the stretch starts, l'll increase this to 1000 ppfd. Both ladies are slowly starting to smell.

The last week before I flip them into bloom. I'm seeing a lot of cracks in the leaves I'm hoping that is from the over watering and the ensuing drought that I gave them to stop but we'll see. I've checked the plants over for bugs and have seen none so we'll see how the coming weeks treat the girls.