Week 2 and nice and green, we just gave some more organic nutrients like palm tree ash and some guanokalong powder, for the moment its seems to be all good, in 2 weeks I'll be adding some sugars and some more PK

Igh

Bloom W2 Blütenstände fangen an sich zu bilden, stretch bisher 15cm 14.32026 Gieswasser 1,0L , Ph-Wert 5,8, EC 3,0

Removed the LST ties.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

I think there’s been some sort of salt build up / nutrient lock. The lower leaves have been turning a lighter green and some even yellow on SL plants. Most stems are red. Seems like it’s a pH problem. I flushed them with 4-5 litres of water to reduce the nutrient concentration in the roots. Going to introduce molasses in next feeding! Organic Unsulphered And also stop the Micro (nitrogen)

8/21/24. Going into week 8 flower Are we there yet? Haha.. no. Day 57 out of stated 70. 13 days? Hmmm I don’t know. I thought she might go longer than that, BUT now I think it’ll be less. I suspect another week and she’ll be ready. Appearance wise, I’d say she’s pretty much there.. trichomes say other wise. Still quite a bit of clear with the start of milky coming. It’s all gonna be about ripening now. Water/fed her today. She’s yellowing heavily or I would have already stopped. I’m guessing this is just her type of fade. No real colors going other than yellow. Maybe that’s because she’s a banana 😄 I increased the light to 80% a couple days ago just to be a pushy bitch. I’ll decrease it way down to probably about 40-50% in a few days because I like to do that when they’re finishing up to help bring temperature down and I think it makes them wrap it up. These pictures don’t do justice to the fatness of these buds. They’re obese and not ashamed. Body positivity with this girl. Somehow some of the buds have suicided. Aka jumped out of their spot in the trellis and tried to hit the floor. I can’t do anything about it really. Can’t reach them and can’t be bothered. Smell? Skunky rotten fruity…idk. And coffee? You can smell it through the place and maybe at the neighbors LOL Wellp. Waiting game now. See yuh next time ✌️

51 Days in flower have passed. This week i got myself an upgrade, new light the FC-E3000 and a 120x60 grow tent so i can grow some bigger and better medicine. I love the specs on the light, the price was right and so i have high expectations from looking at other peoples reviews of the light. We will see if im able to hit the jackpot with this! 🤠 The girls are looking great! Cheese left, Gorilla Girl right. the pictures and videos are self explanatory, its looking awesome!!! If you ever wondered where i stashed the Runtz and Bruce Banner; i took them out of the grow tent and just put them in the corner of my house without light only surviving off the light in the shadow from the sun, they have been neglected for a while but they still went on super strong, they started flowering 3 weeks ago so i had to put them into reveg so they look a little odd now but its all good. it was either that or i would have to throw them in the trash, and im not gonna waste some nice strains like that. Im impressed how they have survived with almost no light and water. ---1st time growing with FLO - Florian Living Organics.--- They claim that there is no need to pH when watering and that their living fertilizer is the only thing that i will need throughout the whole grow so i only need to mix with soil and just water with plain water. If this stuff works then it can simplify my future grows ALOT! Happy growing. 😎

Day 1. Hope all goes well. This time I have my substrate ready, unlike strawberry pie. It took off so fast didn't expect it to break ground in 2 days. Which I just transplanted.

Day 37 - Slight stretch allowed be to pull down the top and allow other heads to obtain more light. Day 39 - Finally defoliated to allow air flow and space for the bud sites to eventually stretch upward in order to LST hopefully at the latest after this weekend. I’m not worried as she only started showing signs of pistils recently, give or take a week. Day 42 - End week - see Week 7 as a result of defoliation and LST

Welcome to my first grow report on this site! I've chosen for 4 Runtz seeds from Zamnesia. Seems to be a great strain, 50/50 hybrid with a high thc percentage. After 5 days, all 4 germinated. I don't do pre-germination, the seeds go straight into pre watered soil (Ph 6.2) Just kept the temperature between 22.6 - 27.4°C (72.6°F - 81.3°F) and the humidity between 64-94% No nutrients right now. There's plenty in the seed itself. Just a little patience.😌 Do you want to grow them? 👉 https://www.zamnesia.com/6000-zamnesia-seeds-runtz-feminized.html 👈

Schön das die Kleine noch ein wenig gestretcht hat. So passt Sie mit höher stellen genau ins Canopy. Enemy of the State wurde heute ausgedünnt und gelollipoppt. Das Netz habe ich ca. 5 cm höher gemacht.

23.04.2024 Continue into week 8 Replaced all filters in the system and cleaned them. Mixed a new batch with the following components: 20+25ml AN Connoisseur Bloom A+B Total volume: 34 liters Electrical Conductivity (EC): 1.0 Target EC for this week: around 1.0. Adjustments will be based on plant observations. Performed one long misting session (3 minutes). Environmental Conditions: Outside temperatures going up, today is raining but this week start higher temps and humidity Wedding Cheesecake: One girl is gonna finish in this week, Two others probably in next. Frutti terps in this, Two pheno in total from 3 girls' Tropicana Cookies: Phenomenal strain; One girl is going to finish this week and second couple days after . Two pheno in Tropicana's girls Purple Lemonade: Tall plants, massive producer, all three girls will be in 9 week provably. Here so far all three girl share same characteristics and bud structure Beautiful and high odor in the room! Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 950, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.1 to -1.2. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 70%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Girls drink less water, so for this week and till the end of flowering new misting timing's Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 6.00. Stable PH, small drifting up and downs EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 25.04.2024 TrolMaster toys arrived! Purchase new DST2E, DSP2E, DSH2E, AMP3+probes. Another DSH2E and DSP2E ordered to complete this grow box! Replaced all filters in the system and cleaned them. Mixed a new batch with the following components: 25+30ml AN Connoisseur Bloom A+B. Total volume: 17 liters Electrical Conductivity (EC): 1.05 Tomorrow Tropicana Cookies harvest! Put bucket with this girl on separate line for flushing Wedding Cheesecake also finish soon, probably in next week, Wednesday think... Purple Lemonade still need full week or more...Exceptional odors Temps and humidity otside start to raises, hope i will finish this run before Tropical heat Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 950, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.0 to -1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 70%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 26.04.2024 Connect TrolMaster components into the Tent-X system. Program DSP2E, Temperature DST2E, Humidity DSH2E, as well as the AMP3 sensor with PH and EC probes, are all in place. After calibrating the probes, AMP3 module works perfectly! It has a quick response in measurements, is accurate, and I am very happy about the possibility of online monitoring of liquid values. After day off use i can tell that all readings are very consistent, compared with Milwaukee, totally without all over the place measurements. Perfectly steady and on spot receding! The Program device runs flawlessly all day, and I hope it has solved all the problems I had with DH48-S timers. The humidity control operates without errors throughout the day, and it’s nice to see in the app when the module is active. Raise light as much as i can..50-55cm from canopy. Set off misting time from 30min to 35min @ day time , and from 35min to 45min @ night time Flush Tropicana Cookies' for one more day, tomorrow harvest, prepared tent for drying with humidifier , ventilation and temperature and humidity controllers PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 850, minimum PPFD is 500. VPD: Ranges from 1.0 to 1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 50-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 45 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 28.04.2024 First harvest in this run! Tropicana Cookies No1 is a winner.) First Tropicana Cookies is harvested on 89 day from seed. Total 55 days off flowering. Fast flowering indeed as fast in vegetative stage. Cut this girl in branches and hang upside-down in smaller tent for drying Set RH @ 55% , temperatures not able to control so they will be something around 20-21 in drying tent Second Tropicana will be chopped within a couple off days. Checking trichomes with microscopes can tell that one Purple Lemonade is also going to finish in next days Somme lady's will take full 9 weeks or so.. Lowering light intensity, EC in tank start to raise slowly so i will start to adjust according to condition. Currently 0.85EC is perfect strength i think PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 850, minimum PPFD is 550. VPD: Ranges from - 0.9-1.0 Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 60 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 60 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 0.85. Temperature: 19-21°C Week 8 off Flowering in Summary 80 litter off RO water, 120ml+150ml AN connoisseur A+B 45kW electricity in total for light, Pumps and AC Infinity Fans. 42kW for Light + 2kW Dehumidification + AC Infinity ventilation Week start @ 1.1EC, nutrient strength., week finish with 0,87EC Tropicana Cookies is first harvested on day 89 from sprouting , week 8 off flowering Purple Lemonade is going to be on second place with harvest on day 91, last day off 8 week off flowering PH was stabile and move from 5.70 min to 5,9 max. Light distance for this week - 50-55cm from tallest top , PPFD levels around 900 in center, trough whole week. Lowest reading 500 @ corner Temperature are from 20c at start off day to 24.5c max at some points. Night temps around 19.5-20c. Outside humidity is generally low This week i have install TrolMaster AMP3 sensor and humidity, temp and program devices Day RH is moved from 45% to 55% max, at night times drop to 45-48% Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 900, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.0-1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 24.5°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 20°C. Leaf Temperature: 22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 25 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.8 and 6.1 EC: 0.87-1,1. Temperature: 20-21°C

Plant grew a little burning the tips off of the top leaves. Bent those stems down an inch to try to avoid any additional burning. Since the grow bucket has limited space, a majority of the bottom leaves have started to die. I also will be removing grow big from my nutes.

Hello everybody! This week will be the hardest one. I’ll have to work a lot inside the room, and even on GD to document all the changes. Last week I topped for the last time (in reality this happened the first day of this week), and finally stopped with high stress training. From now on, our attention will fall totally on ScrOG. Day 43: Topped the 4 colas at the extremities. Red blood came out from them (see the photos). Amazing! Sorry for the bad quality, but I got just the phone with me when I did the job. When I took the second photo (a few hours later), the plant had already sucked up all the lymph. You can still see the red blood by the way. Day 44: Set the timer to start with 12/12 from midnight of day 45. Day 45: SO MANY THINGS HAPPENED TODAY. Flowering started, baby! 🤩 Today, in the evening, I worked for about 4 hours to prepare the ScrOG environment. - Improved the LST before placing the grid. - Took some photos. - Removed the humidifier. - Since my LED panel has half of the blue lights broken (this happened three weeks ago), resulting in 100W less of total potency, I added 3 new lights pointing where the panel is broken (2x 36W led bulbs and 1x 30W COB led light). I uploaded a photo and a video to better understand what I’m talking about. I even tried changing the broken LED driver, but it didn’t work, so now I’ll have to wait until the end of this cycle to send it to maintenance. - Put 20gr of BatMagno (which is bat guano), 10gr of “Farina di Neem” (Neem Flour), and 50gr of Alghe, all of them over the soil. I’ll write something about these fertilizers at the end of the comment. - 4.5L of tap water (corrected to PH6.5), which gave zero runoff. Haha, she’s drinking like a camel. - Placed the grid. - Took a few photos. - Little defoliation. - Took all the other photos. - There we go! I preferred not to add the bloom fertilizer now because I’m a little worried about overfertilizing this baby. During veg, she showed me she doesn’t like nutrients, so I’m just listening to her requests. I’ll add the bloom one as soon as she seems hungry again. By the way she’s just 20cm tall (I’m so proud of this result) and the grid is located a few centimeters above her. Let’s see if I switched to 12/12 at the right time: I heard this strain usually stretches for about 6 weeks!!! 😱😱 Let’s talk about the ferts I placed on the surface of the soil. - BatGuano: it’s a mixture of organic fertilizers of natural origin and suitable to produce a high amount of organic nitrogen and phosphorus that can be assimilated at 100%. It’s a natural slow-release fertilizer for flowering: the raw materials used (guano, dried borlanda with ammonium salts, kieserite of natural origin, flagpole, meat meal, bone meal and dried poultry) are the result of a careful selection which ensures a low salinity and a gradual transfer of the elements. The phosphorus content in BatMagno (being organic) does not undergo insolubilization. - Alghe: they are a portentose substrate activator made of a mixture of algae of the species Ascophillum, Fucales and Laminariales, obtained through a process of dehydration and grinding without the use of any chemical substance. They can be used during the preparation of the soil, and increase and strengthen the formation of the root system, mobilize the nutrients in the soil, reinvigorate the plants, protecting them from adverse weather conditions, help plants to overcome stress conditions and improve the quantity and quality of production. All of this is possible thanks to the presence of betaine, cytokinins, vitamins, auxins and alginates polysaccharides. - Farina di Neem (Neem Flour): it’s a vegetable product based on Neem seeds, obtained from the extraction of Neem Oil through a process of cold-squizzing out, which increases crops, improving both growth and flowering, as well as strengthening the roots of the plants. The Neem Flour is mixed with nitrogen fertilizers, that slow down the conversion and leaching of nitrogen. Repeated interventions improve the endogenous resistance of plants to pathogens, creating an unsuitable environment for the development of insects and cryptogams. Due to the presence of important trace elements for plant life, it prevents imbalances and nutritional disorders. It also protects plants from Nematodes, ants, insects and soil larvae. Let’s say Alghe is the most smelly product. My room now smells like seaweed! I need to figure out how to give her water now that the grid is on. I think I’ll plug a 2m pipe at the end of my watering can. That’s the most easy and cheap way to fix this problem. I just need to find the right size of the pipe. I’ll show you my solution next week.

Brothers and sisters farmers Welcome to a new rich and intense week of hard work for this photoperiod. The gems seem to start taking shape, even if contrasting with the melting infestation of shitty ... we fight without stopping and we will see how it will end!

Little bit of a delay. Wanted to get climate perfect before the flip. Upgraded ventilation and have the tent dialed in well at 74 degrees and 60% humidity during day and 70deg/ 55% at night. Started a second scrog on Day 42. Nervous about the stretch but hopefully I can maintain it (I wish T5 lights could flower...) Did extensive trimming underneath clearing pretty much anything that will never reach the ceiling of green above it. Day 45 marks last day of Veg Day 46 marks first day of flower AND. HERE. WE. GO.

29.8. Plants look just amazing! I dont add any nutritions... Just bionova powder nutritions in start which i get from zamnesia 💪 maybe i found right nutritions for my plants 31.8. I will leave those beautys for few days more 😍 i cant wait to taste this buds! 2.9. Another week more and they are done 🤟 so far im impressed 🚀

GUSH MINTZ

Bueno ! Acá les dejo la última semana ! De nuestra hermosa planta ! Subiendo el corte y más adelante subiremos las flores curadas y secadas !! Logrando obtener una estructura de copa desde el día uno y teniendo una dura batalla sobre el mal control de la ec y teniendo excesos de minerales como os contaba en los diarios anteriores ! Logrando tener varias ramas con flores abundantes y sólidas no unas flores llenas de tricomas y un olor maravilloso ! Bueno dando a conocer la linda experiencia de este banco 🏦 lograremos seguir en este lindo proyecto!