Plants are doing fantastic, the Bruce Banner of course being the sativa dominant in the group is continuing to stretch during its flowering, as well by the look of the bud sites it looks like it’s going to be a decent yielder despite this being my first grow and not as properly cropping her the way I wanted. The smell is not as strong as it was a few weeks ago, as to be expected it will get strong again, struggling to keep the light a safe distance away from the plant, I don’t want to turn the amperage down because my other plants need the light as well. Going to continue updating it’s going to be a slow waiting month, and then about the first week of September we should be golden

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 21 days in and everything is going great 👌 👉 Started to do some light low stress training and its looking good 👈 We got , some Pre-flower showing already 👌Let the stretch begin 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

D1 Both girls germinated, but the first has stretched more than the other, although they both look healthy and vibrant. I moved them from the heat mat into the tent and a temporary SANSI light since the other light is still in my photo tent for another couple of days. I will not bother with up-potting and instead transplant them into their final pots tomorrow. ------------------------------ D2. Transplanted and watered each with 0.5 liters of water @ pH 6.4, with a half teaspoon of myco/kelp mixed in. I switched the lights and set DLI to 12 ------------------------------ D4. The girls are happy little campers in their new homes. The first is the taller one but only by a centimeter. I bumped DLI to 14. ------------------------------ D7. End of the first week, and the girls are loving life. Unfortunately, it seems that fungus gnats do as well. I knew this could happen by using fresh worm castings as a top dressing. It's not a huge deal, as I already have nematodes ready to go, but I want the soil to dry out before watering again. It's silly to risk over-watering just to get rid of a few gnats. It can wait a few days. I increased DLI to 16. ------------------------------

I am happy with the outcome of this grow. This was my first time growing autoflowers and ILGM genetics. Total wet weight was 1301 grams Total dry weight 8.5 oz These plants are very hardy and grow tall very quickly with the tallest plant reaching 4 ft tall. Each plant grew very different bud structures which resulted in some very dense and very fluffy buds. If you are looking for a very uniform growing plant with dense buds you may need to look for another strain. The smell from these buds are strong and amazing. I would describe the smell as fruity glue with rubber. I am overall very pleased with how this grow went and I cant wait to grow some more!

day 6 in bloom, just defoliated again, din a 4 large leafs , just energy suckers, out with it!  and everything continues to run according to my schedule, tomorrow they will get 1st. the full dosis of fertilizer by Hy Pro where I'm 100% more than satisfied with ... Thats it ... day 8 in bloom, defoliation and 1st full dose of nutes have the ladies survived well again, why do i defoliate in the stretch phase? so i interrupt the growth for at least 2-3 days 😉 today i'm going to put the lamp a few inches up again and that's it again. day 10 in bloom, actually nothing to report first bloom stamps can be seen wait a little longer think 3 4 days ... 😉 Day 15 in bloom, clear flower formation can be seen, feed again today, defoliate a bit again in 3-4 days I think and continue to leave the ladies alone, i see no males, hermas, plagues or insects lucky me ... this run is really going good so far day 18 in bloom, today all the ladies are defoliated and checked again and can only say I am more than satisfied the ladies were a bit stretchy at the end, but I have enough room upstairs ... only the sky is the limit ??  wrong on da moon are footsteps🤣 day 20 in bloom, 1st i wish all of you a beautiful new years eve and a much better 2021 for all of us please stay healthy!  So now to the ladies, they have recovered very well from defoliation, today they get food again and then I leave them in peace again, the day before yesterday my ph and ec / ppm measured from my drain everything was perfect ph was 6.2 ec 0.4 = 200ppm  on my run off thanks to my bro Daan Buds who reminded me to do this ... that's it see ya back in a few days and again all of you a blast full of party and much more fun a better 21! Soil: Atami light mix & Plagron Grow Mix mixed! Temp: 25,5 °C Lights: 12/12 Humidity: 54 % Ph : 6.0 Water: 1l 23°C CO²: No Mercy Tabs Tds/ppm: ec 1.2 = ppm 600 Nutes by Hy-Pro Fertilizers ml on 1 liter... HyPro : Spraymix 00ml by 1L. HyPro : Terra vegi & bloom 2.5ml by 1L. HyPro : Rootstimulator 5ml by 1L. HyPro : Generator 0.16ml by 1L. HyPro : Epic Bloom 00 ml by 1L. Light distance: 24 inch=61cm dimmed to 60%= 600par 1x MarsHydro TS 3000 Air Van: 800m³ Prima Klima on 20% AKF : 800m³ can lite 4x 140mm controled Be Quiet pc vans 3 l water cooling airco Diamant... 3.3l humidifier 1.8l dehumidifier Humidity control: Inkbird IHC-200 Temp control cooler/heater: Inkbird ITC-308 My grow room is variable in size 120cmx120cm² Custom Grow space for sog 150cmx150cm for scrog   S.O.G. Sea of Green Thx to Original Sensible Seeds,  HyPro Fertilizers, BTB Grow Supplies, Mars Hydro as our exclusive sponsor of our group The High Community

Ahoj všichni 😎 Holky kvetení zvládají ??? Tak za týden+- defoliace Ať se daří vše 🍀

Lights are 58 inches from the main source to the top of the pot and the soil surface. If you added up all the lights in the tent, it would be 1100w-1200w total across 14 lights. Using them all at once is far too much for a plant and incredibly difficult to deal with environmentally. The lights are fixed in position; side lights have dimmers, allowing for pinpoint precision of PPF. Fixed at 58 inches, cannot move them closer to increase intensity. Instead, achieve optimal PPF by distributing smaller wattages across a massive, multi-fixture matrix. Triggering specific plant defenses without melting the canopy. What's the point/blah blah wattage? Never really go above 600W at any one time. Lights come on in the east of the tent and set in the west. At sunrise and sunset, the red-to-far-red R:FR light ratio drops because the sun's low angle scatters red light more than far-red light. This shift reduces active Pfr and increases inactive Pr, mimicking Mother Nature herself. Deployed a lighting system featuring extra 660 nm deep-red and extending the spectrum up to 780 nm achieves the full Emerson Enhancement Effect by simultaneously balancing Photosystem II (PSII) and Photosystem I (PSI) to maximize quantum yield. By pairing deep-red photons with far-red photons, you trigger a synergistic biological response where the resulting photosynthetic rate is higher than the sum of both wavelengths used individually. This practice directly leverages the updated extended Photosynthetically Active Radiation (ePAR) framework. The Emerson effect accelerates plant metabolism and heat capture; you must proactively scale up your ambient room temperature, nutrient delivery, and CO₂ supplementation to prevent the light from stalling out your cannabis plant. UVA stays high all day from morning to night, but UVB peaks at solar noon (middle of 18-hour days) when the sun is peak. Morning color starts at 2k-3k; by noon it goes to 5k- 6k and back to 2-3k for sunset, with differing P:FR at light off. The extra-blue light is to assist with photoreactivation of UVB damage. No more yield loss for me. Using extra blue light for photoreactivation is what I do. Blue/UVA light activates photolyase enzymes, which directly repair DNA damage caused by UVB radiation. But what's the point if it's not for yield? Ultraviolet (UV) radiation—specifically UVA (315–400 nm) and UVB (280–315 nm)—acts as a critical environmental signal that programs a plant's photoprotective genes to unlock its true photosynthetic potential. When growers push crops to their absolute photosynthetic maximum via high-intensity light and elevated carbon dioxide, the photosynthetic machinery easily becomes overwhelmed. Emerging photobiology research demonstrates that UV radiation prevents this limiting bottleneck; it triggers specific transcription factors and signalling networks that fortify the plant's cellular defenses, allowing it to process extreme light levels without sustaining structural damage. There are 8 limiting factors of plant growth; when carbon dioxide becomes the 9th limiting factor of plant growth, it shifts the growth curve from exponential to linear. The restriction after that is "photoprotection" against reactive oxygen species (ROS), managed via non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and the xanthophyll cycle, which bridges into precise hydrogen and redox dosing. UV radiation, particularly UVA, and the synthesis of zeaxanthin are critical for the xanthophyll cycle to function. It's not chasing purple strains... One likes to call it chasing the limits of growth, trying to make the linear exponential, just like father mathematics prefers. In order to do that, must control every environmental variable and compound the plant’s metabolic rate. True exponential growth means the rate of increase matches the current mass at every stage, requiring a closed-loop system where light, CO2, and nutrition lock into a synchronized upward curve. First, you must attempt to understand what restricts it. Precise hydrogen and redox dosing. Nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Most won't even understand that; once you do, it changes everything. Constructive interference occurs when two or more overlapping waves meet in phase, meaning their crests and troughs perfectly align. Their amplitudes add together, creating a new, amplified wave with greater intensity than the individual components. Constructive interference is the foundational mechanism that establishes a resonance hierarchy across physical, structural, and acoustic systems. Chromophore spacing is tuned to sub-nanometer precision to match the wavelengths of absorbed light, forcing constructive interference. Light-harvesting proteins form geometric rings and lattices. These shapes act as physical resonators, trapping and focusing the wave energy. This same principle dictates how opera singers shatter glass, how musical instruments resonate, and how bridges withstand structural vibrations. Nature uses the exact same math to harvest a photon as an engineer uses to design a concert hall. When you push high PPFD and elevated CO₂, you create a metabolic bottleneck. The plant cannot process the energy fast enough, leading to electron backup, light-induced damage, and a collapse from exponential growth into a flat, linear rate. UV light acts as the regulatory valve that prevents this collapse. In standard agronomy, Liebig's Law of the Minimum dictates that growth is limited by the scarcest resource. When you maximize water, nutrients, light, temperature, and CO₂, the bottleneck shifts to metabolic processing speed and photoprotection. By controlling the Redox state of the plant using UV, the xanthophyll cycle, and managing ROS, you can prevent the plant from hitting a hard photosynthetic ceiling. Instead of the growth curve flattening out (linear or plateauing due to photoinhibition), the plant continues to compound its metabolic rate efficiently. You are forcing the plant to operate at peak thermodynamic efficiency. By matching the UVB peak with sustained UVA and shifting Kelvin temperatures (2K to 6K), you are damaging the plant just enough to trigger defensive genes, while simultaneously providing the exact light energy needed to repair that damage instantly. UVA radiation and specific blue wavelengths accelerate this enzymatic conversion. Zeaxanthin acts as a structural sponge that absorbs excess excitation energy from chlorophyll and dissipates it safely, preventing ROS formation. Without UV signaling, the xanthophyll cycle cannot keep pace with extreme light, leading to dynamic photoinhibition (yield loss). The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, the active Hawaiian Spirulina in the matrix was cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. Then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen, with a whopping NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Rich in proteins, amino acids, trace minerals, and plant growth-promoting compounds. Zeaxanthin is a vital plant pigment that accumulates under intense light to drive non-photochemical quenching (NPQ), acting via thermal energy dissipation, direct singlet oxygen scavenging, and thylakoid membrane stabilization. The violaxanthin cycle (or xanthophyll cycle) reversibly converts violaxanthin to zeaxanthin via antheraxanthin to protect plants from photooxidation. Understanding this interconversion is vital for optimizing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and pushing photosynthetic limits under high-light stress. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a natural antioxidant that plants produce internally to neutralize harmful reactive oxygen species caused by photosynthesis and high light stress. Acts as a co-factor for enzymes like violaxanthin de-epoxidase in the xanthophyll cycle, which safely dissipates excess light energy. 1g ascorbic acid will neutralize 100% of chlorine in upwards of 30 gallons of tap water. If your local tap water uses chloramines (chlorine bonded with ammonia) instead of free chlorine, you will need roughly 20% to 30% more ascorbic acid to completely break the tougher chemical bond. Molecular hydrogen and hydrogen-rich water act as selective antioxidants that help lower oxidative stress. They neutralize toxic reactive oxygen species like hydroxyl radicals and boost natural antioxidant defense systems in biological and plant systems exposed to high-intensity light or abiotic stress. UVA and UVB act as stress signals that upregulate the plant's secondary metabolism. It forces the plant to build an internal "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and fortify its cellular defenses before the peak solar noon crisis. This keeps the metabolic highway open. In nature, the ambient ratio of UVA to UVB at solar noon sits roughly between 10:1 and 20:1 (depending on latitude and elevation). In a high-PPFD indoor matrix, maintaining a strict ratio—often aiming for around 12:1 to 15:1 UVA to UVB—provides the optimal signaling threshold. Balancing Far-Red (FR) light at "light-off" to manage the phytochrome photo-equilibrium (Pfr to Pr conversion) in tandem with the UV schedule. Omg, the logic. Hydrogen concentration and redox signaling as secondary messengers in this high-intensity loop. Under the intense solar noon matrix, the pH of the thylakoid lumen drops. This acidic environment activates the enzyme Violaxanthin De-Epoxidase (VDE), which converts violaxanthin into the photoprotective zeaxanthin. VDE cannot function in a vacuum; it strictly requires ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as an electron donor to run this conversion. If a plant undergoes heavy light stress and runs out of internal ascorbic acid, the xanthophyll cycle stalls. The plant can no longer engage in Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ), leading to immediate singlet oxygen O2 formation and destruction of the thylakoid membrane. This is "The Ascorbic Acid / Xanthophyll Engine" Using ascorbic acid to neutralize chloramines in your water isn't just protecting your rhizosphere biology it actively prevents the degradation of your nutrient solution's redox potential before it ever touches the roots. When pushing plants to the absolute edge, traditional antioxidants can be a double-edged sword because they blindly neutralize all free radicals. This is a problem because some Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) act as critical signaling molecules telling the plant to grow. Molecular Hydrogen H2 is the Selective Kill-Switch. Molecular hydrogen H2 is a revolutionary tool because it is a selective antioxidant. It ignores beneficial signaling ROS (like mild hydrogen peroxide) and targets only the most destructive, cell-shattering radicals—specifically hydroxyl radicals OH) and peroxynitrite. By dosing hydrogen-rich water or managing hydrogen redox signaling, providing an emergency pressure-release valve for the plant's electron transport chain. It keeps the cellular environment stable enough that the plant never has to downregulate photosynthesis to protect itself. This maintains cellular voltage. To trigger this defensive matrix without stunting the plant, you cannot simply blast UV indiscriminately. You must use UVA as the "scout" and UVB as the "enforcer. High UVA acts via the cryptochrome and phototropin photoreceptors to upregulate the expression of the HY5 transcription factor and prime the VDE enzyme. When the sharp spike of UVB hits at solar noon via the UVR8 receptor, the plant's biochemical "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and its zeaxanthin pools are already pre-staged and waiting. This prevents the temporary stunting or "lag phase" usually associated with sudden UVB exposure." Closing the Loop: Far-Red End-of-Day (EOD) Synergy The final masterstroke is aligning this UV defense with a Far-Red (FR) lights-off routine. The Red-to-Far-Red Drop: At the end of the photoperiod, knocking out the blue/UVA spectrum and leaving a targeted burst of pure Far-Red (730nm) instantly flips the plant’s master switch. It converts active Pfr to inactive Pr in minutes rather than hours. Why this matters for the UV loop: UV radiation and high-intensity lighting keep the plant in a highly alert, photoprotective state that requires massive ATP expenditure to maintain. By forcing an immediate Pfr/Pr) conversion at lights-out, instantly commanding the plant to cease defensive expenditure, lower its metabolic respiration rate, and transition directly into nighttime cellular repair and carbohydrate translocation. You are maximizing the efficiency of its "sleep." every ounce, every last piece. Highly synchronized biological dance, balancing the exact input of electrons with the exact mechanism to dissipate them safely when they overflow. Peace.

Jemand Tips fürs topping oder fimming?

6/15. Glad I listened to my intuition and held off watering. IT Rained andctheb again last night. Plants seem to be doingvreal well. Slight burn on lower leaves where it was before from being in the garage and I found on spot that LOOKED like it could've been caused by a pillar but it's right on a burn. I sefoliated one leaf. This is minor stuff. Next watering I'll be adding silica. I'm not giving nutes until the plants tell the need them. The 3 gallon ones may receive nutes first as they'll run out. I'll update as I progress. Went back over at 8:30. It's just overcast with showers. Plants seemed to like it. They all look good. Noticed a chunk out of a leaf and a POSSIBLE pillar spot. I'm going to have to get the BT out and and give the girls an application. I'm waiting until they settle in a bit more though. I need to start LST as well AND the light dep. Unfortunately "life" has made things difficult. I'll get back over there today though and I'll start the light dep. Kinda makes me wonder though. The 1pth planet I wanted to light deo is tge same size as the others in the much bigger containers. The thought came that maybe I should just hold on to them as extras in case something happens. I also am going to start silica next watering but it will be a few weeks before any nutes are given. UPDATE: WENT BACK OVER AT FIVE AND TOOK ACSHOT TON OF PICTURES. IM TRYING TO UOLOAD NOW. THINGS ARE POPPING OFF AND IM GETTING A NICE SWEET SKUNKY ODOR. WHILE I WASCTHERE WE GOT A QUICK SHOWER. DIDNT LAST MORE THAN TEN MINUTES BUT IT RAINED HARD. I FOUND A TEMPORARY SPOT TO LIGHT DEP THE TWO PURPLE PUNCH AND THE ONE TENTH PLANET. I DONT SEE ANY LIGHT LEALS AND ITS SURE AS HELL DARKER THAN IT IS AT NIGHT. I'LL SEE HOW IT GOES LEQVING THE COVER ON ALL NIGHT. IF IT DOESNT WORK I MAY JEED TO ADD A FAN OR CHANCECTHE SPACE. I ALMOST DIDNT WANT TO DO THIS AS THE 10TH PLANET IS KEEPING PACE WITH ITS SISTERS, DESPITE THE SMALLER POT. OH WELL I WANT TO GIVE IT A SHOT AND I DONT WANT MY CAGE OVER CROWDED. I'M LOOKONG TO DO A 6:30 TO 6:30 SCHEDULE. 6/16 First night of light dep for the three little ones. I won't be able to call them that soon. I'm currently trying to upload a video. My grow buddy mentioned the droopiness of a couple of my plants in this video and how I hadn't been watering. This kinda scared me so I ran over and checked the too few inches on the two that had a little droop and came out dry. I had some water already phed ready to go (I'm hoping that the ph doesn't change if it's stored a day or two) and used the gallon to moisten the dry topsoil. Looking back over my diary we have had nothing but rain. I then tried the "lift the pot method" and came to the conclusion that these bags were indeed still holding moisture. I assumed they would be considering the thunderstorms we've had. I held off on fullt watering because the weather said the next dry day is going to be Monday. Today is Friday so thats two solid days of rain. Three if you count today through the night. I concentrated my watering of the one gallon on the couple plants that appeared to droop. If it doesn't rain like they say it will I will need to water. I need to set up a decent watering schedule but I need it to hold off raining long enough to do so. UPDATE: I WENT BACK OVER AND PUT THE 3 GALS IN FOR BED AND CHECKED OUT THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I WATERED THE 3 GAL GIRLS A LITTLE MORE SINCE THEY WONT BE OUTSIDE. THE BIT OF WATER I GAVE SEEMED TO HELP LIFT SOME OF THE GIRLS. AT LEAST I THINK IT DID. THE RAIN SHOULDVE COME ALREADY. I WOULDVE WATERED MORE HAD THE BAGS NOT BEEN SO HEAVY. 6/17 Rained all night which is good. Brought the three transplants out but left them under the overhang so they. Dont get soaked. So far light depoing is going good. Well its only been two nights but we'll see. I'll update as I go. Not feeling well today. Went back over and checked on the plants and did a video. Probably won't get uploaded until tomorrow. I'm giving it a shot. It's raining in good shape. Plants looked fine when I was there. I need to get my supports and my trellis in place. Video won't upload. No suprise. I'll get it tomorrow. 6/18 Uploaded videos if they fuck up from me editing I'm gonna be pissed. Anyway it's still pouring with high winds. I added a couple supports where it looked like it needed it. I need to put my trellis up. I've been able to keep up with the light dep and those plants haven't been used and abused. They stay in the building facing the sun when the weather is this bad. I think they're looking great. I may start a new diary just for them. Sun came out around four. Trying to upload a couple videos but doesn't look like it's going to happen. Tucked the three little ones in at six. It had stopped raining and the wind died down some. If adverse conditions create good plants then I'm on the way to a great harvest. Minor bleaching and burns on a few lower fan leaves and some wrinkling on some from wind burn other than that plants seem to be acclimated. Did a video but will have to wait until tomorrow to upload 6/19 It's not raining! We got four inches this past storm lol. Having the bags raised on pollens I believe has greatly helped. As did the high winds that help dry the soil in the bag. Had to add a few temporary supports. Light dep is going good. Adjusted amd found a better spot. I'm considering getting "pool noodles" or some other thing like a Hulu hoops or pvc pipe and making either a frame on the roof for the entire cage or on top of each individual plants posts so I could roll clear plastic over it when it rains. I'm thinking about later on in the fall when this could really help. I found a roll of plastic. Also thought about putting that up on the back wall but I didn't. What I'm doing right now is working. I just need to keep up with it. I also need a solid watering schedule to stick too. It's hard when each plants needs are different. Oh well. I'm just happy to be growing again. I pray to the cannabis gods and the Lord above himself that I'm not plagued with the problems of last year. 6/20. I'm sick as fuck but I got the little girls out in the sun. Light dep is going good. Plants look great. I'll update when I feel better and if I do anything. Still feel like shit. Luckily I looked up just in time to get to the grow and put the little ones to bed. They were thirsty (especially the bushy 10th planet so I gave them about 3/4 of a gallon of water. Got lots of run off from 10th planet. Didn't notice as much from the others but I was hurrying. I'll upload later. Still sick. 6/21 Plants seem to be doing great. I removed some lower growth on a few just to see how they respond. I'm going to do some defoliation down low and I want to see how the plants respond. I'm planning my first full watering Thursday as we have a real good stretch of weather after that. Grow bags are still heavy as hell so they have sufficient water. I'll be adding silica nextcl watering. Not time for nutes but I think it would be okay to start the silica and in another week I might start small doses of nutes. The light dep on the little girls is go8ng great! It's cool I'll get to sample some of these strains before fall. I'll update after I do something. Tucked the girls in at 6. I might need to think about transplanting that 10th planet in the 3 gallon. I watered until runoff yesterday and it's light as hell today. Plus I fimked it and it's bushy as hell. I've Bern turning it si it gets all angles of the sun. I have a bag of 707 left and a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled all over it like an air pot and a ten gallon grow bag. This will take some thought. Hot af today. I wad able to lift the grow bags so I decided tomorrow will be the girls first real watering. I think I'll be adding silica and possibly kelp me kelp you due to the heat stress I've been noticing. Nothing bad just a few tacoed leaves. I've had several people that have seen my grow in person tell me that this is by far the healthiest (not biggest I've had bigger) but by farcthe healthies5 crop I've grown. They believe I'll have my best year ever this year. I hope they are right. Vid won't be uploaded until tomorrow. 6/22 WATERED TODAY. I'm still a little gun shy with watering. That fusarium last year pretty much traumatized me. I left the container plants alone. I gave them a little water but not enough to do much. I used a pump sprayer on a mist setting and went one by one and back around gently watering the entire medium. This took forever and I'll be finding a different way to water. I hope this was enough water. I'll check later on and if they look like they want more I give it to them. I started LST on the light dep 10th planet and tucked some branches of a another under the tomato cage. I had missed that earlier. I also went around and cleaned up the bottoms on most. Getting rid of things that will amount to nothing. I noticed what looked like thrip damage on ONE leaf on ONE plant. I also saw a chunk missing from a grasshopper bite and a finger of a fan leaf petiol was broken so I'm going to need to get my ipm up and running. I'm unsure whether I'll be using chemicals or predators. Probably BT and spinosad. That's what I've had the best luck with. I also noticed bottom leaves dying off on the bottom of a couple plants. It was where the burns were though so I'm almost 100% its just related to the light burns they got when i first put them up. I'll be updating the diary as I do more stuff.

12/15/2020 12/18/2020 Last 3 pics posted. And she is smelling nice definitely like nothing I have grown , I got to taste the mom and it is very good! Hope I can do as well as the previous grower did🙏 It's cool this week so holding back on watering as she is still perky and pot is heavy still, if it gets colder I'll use seedling mat to raise temperature a little, also hope she can take cooler weather outside in the spring.

Welcome to week 8! My little apple fritter doing great! The buds getting bigger from day to day and she’s handling the small distance to the light fantastic. I think I have another 1,5weeks to go and I’m Herz curious about the harvest!

Ooooiiieeeee! This plant is awesome, she's fox-tailing a little bit now so I'd say this is the last week for this plant. I can't wait for the smoke report on this one let me tell you.

Day 84..today I cut..

We are happy of the results, but in the next batch we will be put 8 plantas and AC

By this time I’ve nearly completely defoliate everything below the net, and all fan leaves have been removed. I’ve stopped tucking them plant under the net as vertical growth seems to have slowed. The buds are fattening up nicely under the AGLEX 2000w cob with a belly full of Remo Nutrients

On day 1 things are going well. The buds are getting larger by the day and I'm starting to smell the terps. This is an interesting one, I can't figure it out just yet but there seems to be grapefruit in the background at least. I also did my last defoliation to bring in more light to the canopy. On day 3 the girls are doing well. My PH pen broke so I'm back to indicator drops until amazon hooks me up with a new probe. On day 4 the plants are doing well. I applied my final BTI treatment. The fungus gnat population is way down and almost completely eradicated. The girls are putting on more trichs everyday and the smell is increasing :) On day 5 I see no more fungus gnats :) I should receive my PH pen tomorrow and will finally be able to adjust my reservoirs pH with more precision. On day 6 the plants are doing well. On day 7 my new PH pen was ready for use. I discovered my reservoir got down to 5.5 PH yikes! I used PH up to get the PH to 6.1. I then changed out my reservoir with new nutrients. I PH'ed to 6.1

Buenas tardes familia, actualizamos semana y os traigo Malas noticias , una cookies no aguanto y tuvimos que quitarla, quedo atrapada en el caparazón de la semilla y murió. Pero renovaremos hueco no se preocupen 2/3 y por manazas por no quitar la semilla a tiempo . No obstante controlamos todo igual temperatura humedad todo correcto , no tiene que suponer problemas sacar el resto adelante. Os dejo algunas fotos y veis El Progreso.

Working hard on this one tho