Servus Moin! Die Chemical Candy wird langsam richtig lila. Sie hat schon sehr feste dicke Buds bekommen. Sie riecht sehr süß, leicht eklig verdorben mit viel gassy drin. Bin sehr gespannt wie sie schmecken wird.

The runtz are about 45cm start of this week and the tall LCC is 75cm. She is also further into flower, but did not spread out so much in the tent. RAK seems to be very good with high PPFD, for the LCC they need a bit less I can feel.

Things moving along nicely, aside from the humidity. My ac is a bit underpowered it seems and having trouble keeping up with the transpiration caused by so many leaves. Looking forward to a second heavy defoliation in 3 days. All healthy, all good. Autos get the chop within 14 days, taking much longer than I anticipated

WEEK 11 - 29-8-2020 - 04-9-2020 02/9/2020 - Nutrient mixed with 20 gallon filtered water. Each tank filled with 10 gallons: Silicon - 1.5ml/gal ~ 30ml Cal mag - 2.5ml/gal - 50ml Micro - 5ml/gal - 100ml Gro - 3ml/gal - 60ml Bloom - 7ml/gal - 140ml Hydroguard - 2ml/gal - 40ml Nitrozyme - 5ml/10L - 40ml Ph 6.00, Ppm 820, Temp 21 04/9/2020 - Did minor defoliation for plant 1. Heavy defoliation for plant 2. Plant 2 is really bushy. Hope after this defoliation it will stretch and get to same level as plant 1. I prefer not to supercrop plant 1. Carbon filter prefilter changed to a new one. So far the girls are looking great!

Straight water now and they're drinking less as they fade and ripen. Still popping some fresh hairs here and there but I've been keeping an eye on the trichomes and looking forward to harvesting whenever they're ready. Won't be long by the looks of things.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Need to replace last hydro system 'cause pump from china isn't a good deal... more simple to use/ to don't have issues with DWC and less scaring moments when put my finger in solution and and device plugged is in all growing fast and there's nothing i can do now unless waiting flower time (and add Cal Mag next week :D) Don't want to practice LST/defoliation unless every one have her space don't want to topping nothing at all (bad experience with auto) Any suggest? Italian fruit is an autoflowering lady ready in four months with loong flowering season. (30% ruderalis :O) (Solution is micro adv base /Humic/Voodoo/Zym) Waiting Co2 System with timer (solenoid switch) from Aliexpress to give about 5/55 - extraction/co2 (per Hour) some algae trying to grow on soil during long session of CO2 Bye!

Was a wonderful run !

When I got into the room one day before I scheduled the harvest, her branch collapsed under the weight of the buds. Not surprising, the buds were massive and dense! This is one of the best problems to appear during a grow, could never be mad at a plant for lack of strength to support the massive buds. I decided to view it as a sign from the plant, that it's done, it had enough, so the harvest happened a day early. Her buds were too tall for my DIY Cooler and since the buds were so dense, it wasn't easy to get to the stem to cut it and since the buds were covered in trichomes, the gloves were super sticky. The genetics were pretty amazing to grow, super happy plant with amazing growth - thank you, @Exotic_Seed for the seeds! 🙏

Very easy strain to grow that’s has little to no stretch from transition from veg to flower. Fairly quick flowering time. Super fat, dense buds. Real unique tasting strain as I can’t pin point an exact flavour. Good all round strain. If you grow her you’ll need to veg her to the final size you want her at. Loads of purple in my pheno, which is aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

Very happy with how this lady has performed, amazing quality buds, very sticky and dense flower with a concrete smell that I love so much, which is that kind of fruity sweet flavor that this lady is able to produce, it's been a beautiful journey, I'm gonna enjoy a lot this flowers. Very recomended guys!

💩Alrighty then Growmies We Are Back At it 💩 Well folks we just finished up the last run and so we are back to do it all over again 😁 So what do you say we have some fun 👈And what we got here folks is a Strawberry Blast 🍓 🍓 🍓 🍓 Strawberry 🍓 Gorilla , Strawberry 🍓 Banana 🍌 and there new release 🍓 Ztrawberriez 🍓 from FastBuds And we also got Strawberry 🍓 Cola from Exotic Seeds 👉 Well we are now around day 56 growmies and its been a good week 👈 So I've been having a few issues here and there 😳 but it's not too bad and I think I got it under control 👍 So all 4 are preforming really well even the Strawberry Banana shes really moving now finally😉 The TinyPot is doing exceptional 👏 maybe first to chop 😀 soon 😀 😉 They all smell awsome , each is very different , sweet , berry 😋 Really happy with them .... 😌 FC4800 from MarsHydro Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍I've added a RU45 to the mix 👍 www.marshydro.ca 👉I am using Agrogardens for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.agrogardens.com 👈 Agrogardens Cal MAG Agrogardens Grow A+B Agrogardens Bloom A+B Agrogardens Bud Booster Agrogardens PK13/14 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 Would you like to hang with the growdiary community 👉 https://discord.gg/gr4cHGDpdb 👈

Everything is going great Royal Gorilla is the farthest along . It is very compact and starting to get a little frosty. Green Gelato is the second farthest along. Doing well. It is very spaced out LSD is coming along. I think because it has probably double the branches, it is taking longer to develop HulkBerry was put into 12/12 4 days later but is looking good. Plant structure is very similar to the Green Gelato

The crazy stretchy yellow plant turned out to be a male and was removed from the tent. The others filled in the space quickly and have finished their stretch. Overall it's not looking too bad at this point. Continued feeding with a tomato fertilizer I had laying around. Added some epsom salts to the water.

Blue Dream Autoflower is doing good. She had her first lst and defoliation today. Everything is looking good. Thank you Spliff Seeds, Athena, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

This is the third LA Kush Cake from @zam.nesia that I've harvested, and I'd love to grow at least 1,000 more. It's truly beautiful in terms of color; during the fade, this one revealed a purple and yellow that blend together in a truly romantic way. The flowers are beautifully full and solid this time, and the resin is excellent. The scent is the original vanilla with a hint of spice. The parents are Wedding Cake x Kush Mintz. Once again, I'd like to emphasize that where Kush Mintz, a particular phenotype of GSC, is present, the plants are wonderful. It never disappoints. The flowers are in the drying room; I can't wait to taste them. It grew in an 11-liter Zamnesia canvas pot and was topped with a top dressing for 16 branches, then I trimmed the weakest ones. We used @plagron_official from start to finish for both soil, base feed, and additives. I choose the 100% Natural line, but there are literally thousands of options for all growing styles. Check out their website, they do it all. www.plagron.com This strain reminds me of another strain in my top 5: King's Tart by GHSC, which is crossed with LA Kush Cake. Our L.A. Kush Cake looks amazing, try it! Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11097-zamnesia-la-kush-cake-seeds.html Z - Want to take your growing to the next level? Now you can with Zamnesia's LA Kush Cake. Originally bred by Seed Junky Genetics from a Wedding Cake and a Kush Mints, this indica-dominant strain produces large quantities of resin-coated buds, rich in sweet terpenes and a relaxing effect. LA Kush Cake seeds produce stocky plants that thrive in any environment. Indoors, they require only 8-9 weeks of flowering to produce dense, trichome-rich buds with a pine-like structure and very compact calyxes. Outdoors, LA Kush Cake can be harvested in early October. Plants produce up to 600 g/m² indoors and 850 g/plant outdoors. In the right conditions, LA Kush Cake can develop intense purple hues that add to its appeal. As you open the jars of these buds, you'll feel a wave of pungent vanilla terpenes wafting through the air, balanced by spicy notes of pepper and mint. Whether you smoke or vape, you'll be instantly intoxicated by its distinctive flavor, with a velvety, creamy aftertaste followed by a powerful yet functional high. Enjoy a relaxing effect that will melt away any tension while keeping your mind clear: perfect for unwinding, enhancing intimacy, or simply enjoying a pleasant smoke. If you need to stay focused, you can: LA Kush Cake relaxes the body while leaving the mind clear and focused, making it the ideal choice for experienced smokers seeking a dynamic, active euphoria that lasts all day. Want to try a potent, productive, and delicious strain? Don't wait: buy LA Kush Cake seeds now and start growing her premium buds at home. You know it, but I recommend it: here you'll find so many wonderful things, practically "all the best nature has to offer." Z - www.zamnesia.com Music // G-RAP and West Coast Music www.radionula.com + Feng Shui Music + 432 + 528 Hz Frequencies

Flowering is going great so far and temps are staying low with the light on full blast. I'm running dangerously close to running out of space though, the last grow stayed so short and bushy, this one got very lanky during flower, I have 3 inches before I go past 12 inches between the canopy. Hopefully the stretch has slowed down. Noticed some burnt leaf ends so I dialed it back on the calmag to 3ml per gal. Also noticed spring tails in the water, but after reading I'm not worried about those little guys in my soil. This plant is massive and takes the whole tent up