The clones are doing ok. I might have the humidity to high because they haven’t had water this week, the soil is still moist from the transplant. Once the roots hit the bottoms of the pots they should spread out causing the foliage to explode. In week 8 I’ll come back and edit and tell myself I told me so. Happy growing folks

Day 100. The Opium plant from Divine Seeds is doing absolutely fantastic! Over this time, it has shown amazing results, and I’m very pleased with how it's developing. I've been giving it maximum care, paying attention to every aspect of the grow. As for the nutrients, I’ve been using Xpert Nutrients throughout the entire cycle, and the results speak for themselves. These nutrients truly help the plant reach its full potential. I've noticed that the buds have become denser over the past weeks, and the aroma has intensified. We’ve also pruned some leaves to improve light penetration to the lower branches and possibly enhance the flowering potential. Big thanks to Xpert Nutrients for their products—they continue to impress!

Soon

A big hello to all the cannabis growing gardeners...and all the other visitors that came across my grow journal. This week i need to change the reservoir again, the plants drink solution just as I add fresh water the EC stays at 2.7 and i need to add PK and Calmag so that's why. The weather outside is very cold this whole week around -18 degree Celsius at night...this made my reservoir water go under 15 degree Celsius. Since i ran the Spider Farmer UV lights i noticed some purples on my cannabis plants i think it's their doing....i run it now for two weeks the UVs ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The SE 7000 is hanged at 28 cm. over the canopy and runs at 520W. This whole grow's main sponsor is Spider Farmer. You can easily obtain all the great grow equipment we use at: spider-farmer.com A big thank you to Jessie and the whole Spider Farmer crew for supporting me with the newest technological advancements in horticulture. Thanks to them what i do here is possible. Thank you Seeds Mafia for giving me the opportunity to try out your stock. seedsmafia.com/en/feminized-cannabis-seeds/moby-dick-feminized.html Plagron did send us their Contest package for the Power Buds competition . Thank you for your visit, please leave a like and hope to see you beck here in about a week.

6cm vertical growth this week. She's doing well.

By now, everyone knows I use the whole lineup of FRONT ROW AG Nutrients. They do not sponsor me and neither does anyone else…and I like it that way. The last 2 weeks I have hammered them with the Bloom. I followed their nutrient schedule and then raised the EC to around 2.4 by adding straight bloom. All nutrients were then PH’d to 5.5-5.6. This week and next nutrients will be on normal feed off of Front row’s feed chart. Then flush. This week was amazing. The single plant that was lagging behind has caught up to the rest in the room. Probably 2-3 weeks left on the whole room. This week, til finish, temps will be lowered to 77 during the day and 65 at night. I feel this is very important to get a good crust of trichromes on the plants. It will work! Thanks to everyone who has been sticking around. I know I do a longer veg than most and I hope I’ve kept things interesting. See you next week guys and girls!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

07/15/2025 Started veg week by transplanting an AK 2.0 into a 20 gallon fabric pot others will be going into 3 gallon nursery pot. The 20 gallon fabric pot is in second year of growing, is amended with Carbon G (Lesco) worm castings and other organic stuff I can't remember, (Coast of Maine Stonington Blend 5-2-4) plant food and top pot off with Coast of Maine Stonington Blend soil, but I want to make it a no till type bed. I've also been watering pots with BIO-REMEDY to insure plenty of microbial activity in plants root zone and nemetodes too! See ya next week.

perto da colheita, algumas folhas queimando.

Wow can't believe another week has passed already! Had a busy week with Christmas and family dinners and whatnot so got #1-3 topped early in the week on Xmas Eve. Didn't even look shocked the next day and by end of the week the growth is 1.5" on the new mains already 💪. Topped them maybe a day or so early, it was tight work but looks like all three plants were done properly as can be seen in the pics. Have been watering daily, working on keeping the soil moist and it seems to be making for happy plants. Trying to follow the BuildaSoil watering guide, basically if you think of soil moisture on scale of 1-10, 1 being desert dry and 10 being mud, you want to keep the soil between a 3-7 at all times to promote best organic life 🤷. So if looking at it on a 2 day cycle for me that means day 1 is about 500ml per plant, but day 2 is only 125ml per plant. Also watering with the sprayer seems to be keeping the soil from compacting as badly as it has in previous runs. Also the girls never look sad after watering so must be doing something right 🤞👍. They were in the 4x4 for 3 days, power issues due to big winter storm but even at the high end of VPD (.9) they did well. Could tell a difference though once they did get back in the 3x3 (.5-.6) much happier plants. Hope everyone has had a great holiday season and is enjoying their gardens!

Hey, everyone! Welcome back to another week of our Anesia pheno hunt journey! We're now in Week 4 of the flowering stage, and things are looking incredible. Our Anesia ladies are thriving beautifully. Each strain is showcasing its unique characteristics, and the buds are starting to swell up nicely. The trichome production is in full swing, and the aroma in the garden is becoming more pronounced and delightful. This week, we've made some adjustments to our nutrient regimen to ensure our plants get everything they need for optimal flower development. Here’s the current mix: Regulator: Ensures strong and healthy growth. CaMg-Boost: Provides essential calcium and magnesium. Top Booster: Enhances bud development and density. P-Boost: Provides phosphorus for strong flowers. K-Boost: Added this week to support potassium needs for flowering. TDS: Raised to 500 ppm. pH: Maintained at 6.0. Temperature: Steady at 21°C. The combination of these nutrients is giving our plants exactly what they need to flourish during this critical phase. Our garden is a vibrant display of life and growth. The canopy is filling out beautifully, and the light penetration is perfect, thanks to the awesome setup from Future of Grow LED. The plants are healthy, with strong stems and lush leaves, thanks to our meticulous care and the excellent products from Aptus Holland. Exciting News! We're thrilled to invite you all to check out our YouTube series, Welcome to the Green Oasis! Dive deep into our garden adventures, see the plants up close, and learn all the tips and tricks we use to achieve these results. Your support means the world to us, and we can't wait to share more of this journey with you! Watch Episode 1 on YouTube and follow along for more updates! Shout Outs: Anesia Seeds: Thank you for the incredible genetics. Aptus Holland: The best in organic and mineral-based nutrients. Future of Grow: Your LED lights are making our garden shine. Grow Diaries: The best place to document and share our progress. Community: You all are amazing! Your support keeps us going. Stay tuned, stay positive, and let's keep growing together! Apricot Oreoz = AO Zoomiez = Z Future#1 = F https://anesiaseeds.com/ Plant nutrition - Aptus Holland - https://aptus-holland.com LED Photons - Future of Grow - https://www.thefuturofgrow.com/ Controls - Trol Master - https://www.trolmaster.eu/ Watering - Autopot - https://autopot.co.uk/ Tent - Mars Hydro - https://marshydro.eu/ Love and attention - Me, myself and i As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and blessed with you all in my life, With true love comes happiness. Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so More info, the ocasional give-away and exclusive updates from all my adventures can be found - links in the profile description Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love To you All

Week 7!🎢 She s the biggest one😧 Buds everywhere For the smell,you open the door in a candy shop delicious 🤤🍭

Well week 5 of bloom is complete, and this week brought a few challenges. Humidity in my area has been through the roof, close to 100%. My heavy-duty equipment was struggling to bring my tent to acceptable late flowering levels, sometimes reaching over 60% RH, especially at night when the plant was respirating more. Additionally, her pale yellow color, and leathery leaves didn't excite me too much. If you remember, we had a severe heat wave a couple of weeks ago, which contributed to that. But also, since I messed up the ScrOG training, and regrettably decided not to super-crop her, a fair share of the leaf problems were due to light stress as well, as I didn't want to sacrifice lower colas, so I let it go. My biggest mistake this grow, was not paying attention to her the one day she decided to stretch nearly a foot, and was unable to be weaved into the net the next day without being snapped in half. My second biggest mistake is NOT snapping it in half, and letting it repair itself. I wouldn't have had nearly as much bleaching of leaves I think. This week, and I'm assuming because nearly all chlorophyll was depleted from her fan leaves, I didn't notice much of any change from last week. Her buds seemed to be about the same mass, and the stigmas still had the same ratio of red to white coloration. I suspected she was dead, or dying, or just...done. Not all genetics will transform all of their stigmas from white, and not all genetics will have their trichomes turn amber. So, I did a few things to confirm that suspicion. First, I looked at her trichomes on various buds closely with a microscope. They were almost all cloudy, with very very few amber. That told me that she was at an acceptable level of ripeness, even if she could have went longer, assuming she was still alive. Next, I removed the pea gravel mulch I was using in the raised bed, so I could get a closer look at the soil she was growing in, and more specifically, her roots. The soil, although moist a few inches deep, was not at the level I expected, and I think I have not been watering her enough. I don't think I'll be using a gravel mulch again. On the plus side, it did help prevent fungus gnats, as there was zero the whole grow, apart from an early week when I placed some solo cups to germinate on top of the bed, but after removing them, the fungus gnats disappeared with them. Also while inspecting the soil, I carefully dug down to inspect some of her primary roots. They were actually dry, despite the surrounding soil being moist. This could explain why she wasn't drinking much if any for the better part of the week. So, given her dry foliage, dry roots, and ripe-enough trichomes, I decided it was time to harvest her, earlier than expected. Let's also not forget that I was frightened this week with some high humidity scares, so growing longer, and possibly for no reason if she was dead or barely alive, was not in the cards. I've dealt with my fair share of bud rot before, and I would rather try what I have of her now, than to wait the extra week or so for her to be fully ripe. So, that is what I did, on the last day of the week -- I chopped her down, cut off some larger fan leaves, and hung her upside down. This, of course, was after removing the raised bed. It took me a while to empty about 45 gallons of soil so I could move it, but in doing so, I noticed a lot of beneficial critters, and nothing bad. Such critters included small centipedes, which feed on other insects, and soil mites which eat dead organic matter. I set the tent to dry at around 72F and 55 RH. And now we wait for about a week before trimming. One thing is for sure -- I am very proud of this grow, despite all these flaws. She smells incredible -- like pure citrus emanating throughout my house. This is a very strong-smelling plant. As a bonus, I've included a time-lapse video of the entire grow from start to finish in the last media above. Check it out and let me know what you think. I'll be back for the harvest week for the dry weight in about a week or so, after we're done drying and trimming.

Week 10* last week messed up,70 days today from seed,what defiency(looks like k)are We looking at on a few of the leafs,any advice tips anything growmies,happy growing

This babe is a frost monster! Smells like permanent marker, curious where that came from? Structure very much matched description, but the smells. It's insane how burnt rubber it smells! Chopping today, day 101.

Normal week - starting to flower now. Off we go. Let’s see if we get the purple out ! In this grow they are all in one bucket and trained and cut to be more like sog

expect high super high levels of frost , be sure to start your training early on this plant and defoliation of lower growth will help out a lot, with care you can have beautifull massive grapewalker kush's glad ivesaved some for the vault , thanks for sticking around for this journey now for the next =)0

The GSCs finally hit their flowering stretch and turned from little ninja stars to nice little bushes. I think my low Humidity may have stunted growth a bit - dry winters in so cal. Overall they are doing super nice, and should start stacking and stinking here any day now. I moved them under the big light in the big tent and all the plants are reaching for it like mad. This Mars 2 1600 is a beast of a light.

Should be harvesting next week. Glad to finally be close

1/11/2025 17:10 11.4°C 70%RH It's fucking cold outside,at least last days were sunny but every sunrise was so foggy until 8:00 when the sun Is high enough to make everything visible This means i cannot grow weed outside anymore,the more days i wait the more bud rot i find Plants still looks pretty good especially Coco fresh,i only found a flower that looked weird and i found out a very little tiny piece of mold Video #1 Coco Milk 105 days from seed Last video before harvest ,the smell is crazy but sadly i found some mold I will post more details in the harvest section Video #2 Coco fresh 93 days from seed This one Is getting heavy and looks like she loves cold climate,rippening very fast and smelling strong Not strong like her sister but more cali terps,runtz lineage coming out more as we are near the end Trichomes are now whitening with less than 5% of amber and a lot of trasparent ones Probably this plant will start molding with foggy days like this but i will wait until some more amber decide to appear Next time the very end of this guerrilla grow journey,maybe 6 or 7 november which Is a lot later than i ecpected