Belle odeur les feuilles pointent vers le bas normal faut que je l’arrose ;-)

All okay

Hey everyone 😃. We arrived last week and everything is going according to plan 👍. It has now had enough time to use up its nutrients and will be in the darkroom for the next 2-3 days before it is harvested 👌. The trichomes are 70% Milky and 30% amber 👍. As always, a detailed harvest update will follow before the last update 👍. Until then, I wish you all the best, stay healthy and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/kosher-tangie-kush/ You can buy this Nutrients at https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Kosher Tangie Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Kosher Kush X Tangie 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .

First grow smelling terpy

Home Indoor 90x90 // Do Si Dos 33 - Barneys Farm + Sour Diesel + Roadawg ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ // Week 6 // Pre-flowering ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ - Grotek Nutrients. - Lumatek LEC 315w+💎. LEC 315w --> 80% + LST

I started out cutting off the big fan leaves and after an hour or so, I began to remember it took me 7-8 hours per plant just chopping and cutting large fan leaves... So! I thought to myself, “fuck this shit”.... I continued cut/hanging with no fan leaf trim, 1st plant took 2.5 hours and second plant 2 hours. Laziness is bliss. I will add “harvest week”, and numbers after 7-day dry period.

Bien pues el domingo 15/05/22 hice defoliacion con 66 dias desde la germi. Hoy lunes por la noche, las pongo ya a 12/12 y que empiecen a florecer. Considero que estan robustas y fuertes para la etapa de flora. Me lie con stories y videos y se me paso hace fotos detelladas para aqui... lo siento, os dejo las stories y fotos de esta mañana Creo que vamos a ver buenas cosas aqui :D Son 10 Tropicanna cookies con 48 dias desde la germinacion y 5 MAC, 4 Bannana wafflez y 1 Apple friter con 67 dias desde la germi. Hoy lunes 16/05/22 por la noche las paso a 12/12 Todo de GBSTRAINS abonado con BOOM NUTRIENTS bajo los paneles LED de GBLIGHTING GB THE GREEN BRAND

.

Day 21 Of flower I did a lollipop / heavy trim (feel like I could have done a lil more) and I have to say I'm running out of room with my lights it's pretty much at 9 inch away from the tallest part of the plant the ppfd high but using a phone app But not seeing no burn on the leafs The intake of water has been up to a gallon an a half (always do some kinda of runoff) pH has been around 6.1 Day 23 Of flower and I added the AC infinity fan (day 1 of fan(actually couple hrs and I think I been missing out on a oscillating fan so get one) still been slowly uping the dimmer it's been getting warmer in the tent so I turned my AC on NOTES: ( btw it's April and I live in a new apartment and pretty much start growing after a month or so of moving in(moved in November started in the middle of January) and seems like this place holds heat so it's going to be a hot summer) but I can see myself down the road getting a (portable AC for the drying if I want to reach that 60°/60% ) plus that dehumidifier kicks off a some heat and my dumbass is growing in the room I sleep in so since all this I've slept on my couch a few times and plenty more to come

This lady has been Transplanted on day 39 since she was planted and she will be grown with the complete biotabs organic line, I have applied for this 50L pot: 25g of startrex for every 5L of soil so I've used 250g of startrex in total, then I've dropped a spoon of mycotrex in the planting hole and when I finished I finally added 5 slow release tabs for this 50L pot, and then I watered right after the transplant with 1g of bactrex per liter of water and 1ml/L of orgatrex, this is gonna be a fun season, stay tuned everybody!!

Like how things are going👌🏾 Also i top dressed dry amendments on week 1 flower so i’m just feeding water with a tiny bit of megacrop and fish shit

Not too bad for this girl hopefully did the successful transplant, think I got her just in time, don't expect her to get that big with her been on 12/12 from seed but I'm happy she is happy, happy growing and stay green 👌💚✌️

Grow Diary – Week 7, Day 2 of Flowering Buds are stacking thick and frosty, and the tent is getting louder by the day. Trichomes are popping and the top colas are starting to bulk up nicely. Noticed she’s looking a little heavy on the nitrogen — darker leaves and slight clawing — so I’m dialing my A & B down a bit on the next feed. Still holding pH at 5.8 and PPMs just under 1000. Lower sites are getting more light now after daily tucking and some selective leaf removal. Airflow’s solid, RH around 60%. No signs of mold, just sticky, stanky progress. Finish line’s coming. Let’s ride.

The grow path is going good i think . This random unknown strain is a mystery ! She doesn't want a lot nutrients . This plant is easy to grow ! Guys if you have some advices about this grow i am open to listen all ! Thanks a lot !! Better grow coming

This cherry cola from fastbuds is already on a good start. They may have been a bit better if I had the light dialed in.

Blueberry Lime Kush AD Fuck, it's a boy...

Whats up GD !!! ------------- GROWTH------------- Topped both plants, the bigger one, it is 3 days younger than the other, and seems to have faster development, more vigorous.. I think the reasons could be the pheno or the level of root development, i ll explain it : C#1 was in a yogurth as seen on photos and having all the sun. C#2 was in a wider recipient, lower in height, and in a room with poor light. I watered both plants at the same time, C#2 got curvy leaves when watered, i think maybe she likes near dry soil, or cant handle that level of humidity in the roots ... in my opinion she has less developed roots and the pot hadnt enought holes to let the air come in, the oposite of C#1, that seems to handle better humidity and is eating all she can, getting fluorescent green below sunlight. Both plants have same feeding and soil composition. ------------- IRRIGATION------------- Watered both ladies, around 0.2-0.3l each one with Deeper Underground. ------------- NUTRIENTS------------- Tall cheese C#1 : Deeper underground 1ml/l Short cheese C#2 : Deeper underground 1ml/l + Micro Vita (it only had Canna Pro soil ) --------------------------------------- Good vibes !! _12/04/2018_

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

4/1/2023 Week 7- Day 1 of Veg (Day 59 overall) Water Change Day!!! Water was really low it was just above the hump in the Res cutting it close to not having enough water in the system to keep it going. They drank a lot making it close going the full 14 days. I am still going with the previous grows and adding 36 Gallons but even looking at the root I think the SILICA is working and the roots are further along at this point than in previous grows. This next two weeks will watch how much they drink and how low my Res starts getting, and will make a decision on changing the water weekly from here on out or still keep on the plan of every other week until Week 4 of Flower. Added 36 Gallons Mammoth SILICA= .5Mil/Gal = 18Mil CALMAG= .5Mil/Gal = 18Mil Root Drip= 1Mil/Gal = 36Mil FloraMicro = 5.4Mil/Gal = 194Mil FloraGrow = 4.2Mil/Gal = 151Mil FloraBloom = 4.6Mil/Gal = 166Mil ORCA = .5Mil/Gal =18Mil PPM= 536 PH=5.84 PPFD=500 Tent Temp= 76.5 Water Temp= 71.4 Humidity= 58% 4/2/2023 Week 7- Day 2 of Veg (Day 60 overall) Not much today, PH was at 5.81, I brought that back up to 5.90. I took care of some badly needed defoliation in each of the back sides .. I was able to see some really good clone material to use on the lower backside of each of the plants. I will be taking two clones from each to breed over the next few weeks depending on when I am going to flip them. 4/3/2023 Week 7- Day 3 of Veg (Day 61 overall) A little FIMing, A little Topping, and a Little bit of defoliation. Might have to take my clones during the week this week, I am trying to wait until Saturday to hit week 8 but again they are getting all over the place and I need to trim some of the sides and lower areas. 4/4/2023 Week 7- Day 4 of Veg (Day 62 overall) I decided to take my clones and clean up the lower half of the plants. I took 2 clones from each plant to go into the cloning machine. 4/5/2023 Week 7- Day 5 of Veg (Day 63 overall) Water Temp is sitting at 73. Right in my ideal range for my setup. Ideal range 70-74 My Temp Tent is my ideal zone75.6 Ideal for this grow 70-78 The lights are still waiting the switch to flower to get maxed out... The Humidity is coming in right at 60% I love it.. I took so much off yesterday I figure it was a good day to let them rest. 4/6/2023 Week 7- Day 6 of Veg (Day 64 overall) I needed to Defoliate some and I topped a little. The plants might force me to flip them soon. Next Wed is the 10 week mark half way through the 20 weeks. The net is Bingo... Which means that If/when the plants hit the net I will have to flip them. The Net is set to the max height that I can let them get based on the Breeders Stretch report 75%. 4/7/2023 Week 7- Day 7 of Veg (Day 65 overall) #3 is 22 inches Tall, #2 is 19 Inches Tall. Net is set at 24 inches. Net is also set as my Bingo point, if they hit the net then I have to flip no matter what to account for the Breeders recommended 75% Stretch allowance. I think I am going to have to flip right at the 10 week mark of the Competition which is Wed 12 Apr. I topped a little, I de-foliated a lot to start getting it ready for the anticipated Flip.