The plant is still going strong, but I noticed that the colors have faded a bit. Not necessarily a bad thing, though—I realized the temperature difference between day and night was a bit too extreme, which probably caused unnecessary stress. It did look absolutely stunning with those colorful leaves, but stability is more important now.🌱 Other than that, everything is going great! The buds are getting thicker, stinkier, and completely covered in frost.😍 The dominant smell is still pink pepper, which is really interesting. Sometimes I get a hint of something sweet, but I’m not sure yet if it will develop more over time.💚

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Se realizó una defoliación en la parte más baja y en las 2 hojas más grandes de la parte superior para que pudiera entrar de mejor manera la luz a los brotes más pequeños. Se aplicó Voodo Juice para las raíces y Top Bloom para la floración, ya todas tomaron de buena manera el cambio del fotoperiodo. Seguimos 👽 ...

Hello everybody! This week will be the hardest one. I’ll have to work a lot inside the room, and even on GD to document all the changes. Last week I topped for the last time (in reality this happened the first day of this week), and finally stopped with high stress training. From now on, our attention will fall totally on ScrOG. Day 43: Topped the 4 colas at the extremities. Red blood came out from them (see the photos). Amazing! Sorry for the bad quality, but I got just the phone with me when I did the job. When I took the second photo (a few hours later), the plant had already sucked up all the lymph. You can still see the red blood by the way. Day 44: Set the timer to start with 12/12 from midnight of day 45. Day 45: SO MANY THINGS HAPPENED TODAY. Flowering started, baby! 🤩 Today, in the evening, I worked for about 4 hours to prepare the ScrOG environment. - Improved the LST before placing the grid. - Took some photos. - Removed the humidifier. - Since my LED panel has half of the blue lights broken (this happened three weeks ago), resulting in 100W less of total potency, I added 3 new lights pointing where the panel is broken (2x 36W led bulbs and 1x 30W COB led light). I uploaded a photo and a video to better understand what I’m talking about. I even tried changing the broken LED driver, but it didn’t work, so now I’ll have to wait until the end of this cycle to send it to maintenance. - Put 20gr of BatMagno (which is bat guano), 10gr of “Farina di Neem” (Neem Flour), and 50gr of Alghe, all of them over the soil. I’ll write something about these fertilizers at the end of the comment. - 4.5L of tap water (corrected to PH6.5), which gave zero runoff. Haha, she’s drinking like a camel. - Placed the grid. - Took a few photos. - Little defoliation. - Took all the other photos. - There we go! I preferred not to add the bloom fertilizer now because I’m a little worried about overfertilizing this baby. During veg, she showed me she doesn’t like nutrients, so I’m just listening to her requests. I’ll add the bloom one as soon as she seems hungry again. By the way she’s just 20cm tall (I’m so proud of this result) and the grid is located a few centimeters above her. Let’s see if I switched to 12/12 at the right time: I heard this strain usually stretches for about 6 weeks!!! 😱😱 Let’s talk about the ferts I placed on the surface of the soil. - BatGuano: it’s a mixture of organic fertilizers of natural origin and suitable to produce a high amount of organic nitrogen and phosphorus that can be assimilated at 100%. It’s a natural slow-release fertilizer for flowering: the raw materials used (guano, dried borlanda with ammonium salts, kieserite of natural origin, flagpole, meat meal, bone meal and dried poultry) are the result of a careful selection which ensures a low salinity and a gradual transfer of the elements. The phosphorus content in BatMagno (being organic) does not undergo insolubilization. - Alghe: they are a portentose substrate activator made of a mixture of algae of the species Ascophillum, Fucales and Laminariales, obtained through a process of dehydration and grinding without the use of any chemical substance. They can be used during the preparation of the soil, and increase and strengthen the formation of the root system, mobilize the nutrients in the soil, reinvigorate the plants, protecting them from adverse weather conditions, help plants to overcome stress conditions and improve the quantity and quality of production. All of this is possible thanks to the presence of betaine, cytokinins, vitamins, auxins and alginates polysaccharides. - Farina di Neem (Neem Flour): it’s a vegetable product based on Neem seeds, obtained from the extraction of Neem Oil through a process of cold-squizzing out, which increases crops, improving both growth and flowering, as well as strengthening the roots of the plants. The Neem Flour is mixed with nitrogen fertilizers, that slow down the conversion and leaching of nitrogen. Repeated interventions improve the endogenous resistance of plants to pathogens, creating an unsuitable environment for the development of insects and cryptogams. Due to the presence of important trace elements for plant life, it prevents imbalances and nutritional disorders. It also protects plants from Nematodes, ants, insects and soil larvae. Let’s say Alghe is the most smelly product. My room now smells like seaweed! I need to figure out how to give her water now that the grid is on. I think I’ll plug a 2m pipe at the end of my watering can. That’s the most easy and cheap way to fix this problem. I just need to find the right size of the pipe. I’ll show you my solution next week.

Comenzamos la semana de floración con una gran poda de bajos dejando estas con forma de palmera o Chupa Chups. En el día de hoy le bajé dos horas al horario de vegetación de 18/6 a 16/8 en los siguientes días bajo dos horas así hasta alcanzar el 12/12 de manera gradual. Hoy se aplicará un riego de vitaminas y entaizante. 17/3/26 Aquí seguimos con las pequeñas algunas mejor otras peor.. pero todas sanas. Seguimos controlando el espacio de cultivo de la mejor manera posible. Una ec 1350 un ph 6,2 Forman el esquema de alimentación de esta semana a partir de la siguiente pegaremos una subida gradual hasta llegar al tope de las niñas. 20/3/26 Seguimos con un avance espectacular! Las niñas crecen de una manera espectacular! Muy contento con los avances en este cultivo! Esperemos que la floración sea igual de vigorosa .. Pero ya sabemos que hay mil factores,que pueden alterar el producto final,aquí seguiremos mejorando con cada uno!

day 55: happy, healthy plants!

Long time since I've been here!... finally back and growing crack!.. well weed... well u know.. Finally got back on here.. these only pics I have left from this grow.. this one been a journey thru and thru.. as u can see that both trees haha. Switched to the HLG a month or so ago and they were light burned pretty quickly.. this light pretty intense.. 50% too strong for veg even at 30 inches away.. thought it was nute burn or overwatering.. eventually solved it. Backed light to 40% and things got 100% better. So if u have this light the less the better at first! Put them in flower this week. So I'll be updating those pics next! They both doing great other then the light burn which I know figured out... next issue will be when to turn it up for flower and when to bring lights closer .. figure once I see first pistil. Signs pistol. Flower I'll turn it up to 50% but keep same distance.

📅 D43 - 26/09 📜New res and new light setup (only bloom lights): so T decreased and I need to take under control the H. Changed res with flowering mix. EC is 2 and pH 6. Removed SCroG net. ✍️ 2 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 50 cm 📅 D44 - 27/09 📜 Posed a new SCroG net over the buds, only to give a support and guide the buds. As EC is raising, today I will give her only 2 L of water with only calmag and hydroguard. I purchased another lamp, that will arrive tomorrow with dimmers both on bloom and veg lights ✍️ 2,2 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 55 cm 📅 D45 - 28/09 📜 Added of fresh water as the EC is raising too much. Let see if I've to add more later, trying to take EC under control. pH is quite stable , but it always goes decreasing and never raising. NEw lamp setup: I've purchased one that seems really good with 2 dimmers for both VEG and BLOOM lights. Very compact but powerful. Now I put bloom dimmer on 100% and veg dimmer on 80%. I'm not sure about the light time: the product sheet say 9-12/24 but now I'm 18/24. I will sniff around others diary to see what to do. ✍️ 1,8 EC ♒ 5,9 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 60 cm 📅 D46 - 29/09 📜 Added 1 other L. of fresh water and stabilize the EC 0n 1,5 and pH 6.1 I decided to keep the ligths on 18/24. Nothing else to report ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6,1 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 65 cm 📅 D47 - 30/09 📜 So far so good. EC and pH are stable now and Lucy is healty and she's growing very fast. ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6,1 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 65 cm 📅 D48 - 01/10 📜 Added 2 L with EC = 1,4 and pH= 6,1. Now the res is stable on EC 1,6 and pH 6,1. She's drinking about 2 liters and more every day. Tomorow I will report last day of 2nd flowerng week, So the harvest should be in the middle of November. ✍️ 1,6 EC ♒ 6,1 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 70 cm 📅 D49 - 02/10 📜 Last day of second week. Lucy is growing a lot and my tent is very small. I could consider to buy another tent, we will see. Added 2 L of water with only calmag and Hydro. I will keep the res untile the middle of next week. ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6,1 pH 🌊 8 L 📏 75 cm

In the missing 4 weeks she has packed on in so many ways. We lost her "Brother" but shes become a rel lady. Her smell is strong and she looks

Week 9 looking good getting ready to chop down both lsd25s the big bud and cherry cola still have time to thicken up for sure

Day 1. No signs of flower yet but good growth and the girl scout is finally growing well. Day 2. FLOWERING :D Checked on the girls early evening to find they are now drinking 1lt per day and had amazing growth overnight. As I was doing some more training I noticed my first pistils. I will raise the lights tomorrow by about 40% to encourage the flower stretch Day 3. Raised the lights to encourage growth. Day 4. No access missed feeding 😭 Day 5. Plants look sad due to missing a feed also noticed discolouration on 1 leaf Day 6. Plants have bounced back and looking good. the discolouration has spread from one leaf to a few so almost certain its a mag deficiency. Day 7. Very happy today good stretch. Flushed the plant with the mag deficiency to make sure it's not locked and the CalMag arrives tomorrow

Plant starts to change colours , trichomes start changing from clear to cloudy . I am checking the development every 3 Days , looking in top , middle and bottom , to get a good avg. result . Overall I want like 5-10% Clear ones , 70-90% cloudy ones and around 5-10% amber ones , this wont be achieved perfectly in every layer , but gives me a little more variety in the effect later on. I do sort them when I put them in jars or curing bags. I flush with around 2-3l with a little top max acti vera and heaven like 1-2ml per l on the first flush with like 10 % runoff , after like 2 Days i went with clear water aiming for very little run off . Also cleaning my pot with a pump sprayer to get salts and used fertilizer out of it . I think the plant has another 1-2 weeks to go .

8.5.2024 its 2 weeks after my last post and today is chop of rest. I will make harvest after dry all. Later

Anfang der woche wurden die Babys mit 10 Liter Wasser ohne Dünger gegossen der PH betrug 6,5 und sie haben direkt angefangen zu mängeln ! habe draufhin mit der vollen Dosis Hesi Chema gedüngt und sie haben sich rasch erholt ! heute (Samstag) habe ich das Licht auf 12/12 umgestellt mal sehen wie sie sich in der Vorblüte machen :) ich jedenfalls bin gespannt und wirklich Stolz dass ich wieder mein ganzes ScrOGnetz mit Trieben füllen konnte.

30/6/26.beginning week 5,day 29 of flowering. The plant takes in all the fertilizer and water like a very hungry coyote. The key here is PH and TDS(ppm) control.

📆 Semana 10 Fase final en marcha, con cogollos muy duros y densos, terminando de afinar peso y compactación. La resina está en niveles muy altos y la planta empieza a mostrar tonos morados, señal clara de maduración avanzada. Los tricomas se mantienen mayoritariamente lechosos con cada vez más ámbar, indicando una ventana de corte ya abierta. El aroma se intensifica y la planta consume sus últimas reservas, marcando el cierre del ciclo. Cultivo estable y bien afinado, entrando en la recta final. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

420Fastbuds-Greenhouse Grow 2025 The feminized strains RainbowMelon, GorillaMelon, LemonPaya, PapayaSherbet, LemonMandarin, the FastFlowering GG4/Sherbet from Fastbuds are doing amazing for there first full week in the greenhouse. The heat in SoCal is warming up with temps in the low 90's in the daytime and 60's for nighttime. Over all they're starting to reach for the stars after being topped. Besides a couple of yellow leafs I snipped at the soil level, I'm seeing growth almost daily. I'll start feeding this week Grow A & B as well as Calmag from AthenaBlendedLine. Since being transplanted into the 5gal fabric pots they've only got well water. Happy Growing

These ladies are really starting to stretch their limbs. I have reduced the indoor light to 17.5 hours and will continue to reduce the light 1/2 hour every ten days to match the 16 hour day on June 20th when I have scheduled to put them outside for good. On warm days here I try to get them outside in the sunlight as much as possible. They are busy and beautiful.