Conning soon

And im in first flowering Week since last sunday, so far i really can't complain. Everything looks healthy and fine. Plant 3 is still kinda weaker/slower and Plant 4 seems to want to do some sativa things and grows up like hell but oh well, at least Plant 1 and 2 just grow as they should. This week i made the Bio Tabs compost tea for the first time and the plants seem to love it. Each one received 500ml if it. Can't wait to see the results at the end of the run. Again thanks to Bio Tabs for sending it out so i can test it. Humidity was pretty high because of constant rain this week, but it seems like i have made it through it, now just to make sure to finish this run before the summer heat will come. I removed a few leaves here and there because they were stacking or blocking light, i will defoliate in 1-2 weeks for real. Sadly Plant 4 needed an even higher stool then last weeks, so it's on the same height as the others. It was getting not enough light this deep down. That is also because why the scrog net does look like it does right now. I try to make it more "appealing" tonight, but i don't want to break anything and it works like it should right now, so yeah it looks stupid but it's alright. See you next week and thanks for all the likes and comments. 😍🙌

⭐ TrolMaster tracking ⭐ I started to track my crop during week 15, when I got the Tent-X TCS-1 by TrolMaster. First impression was: this is too professional for me, I can't handle setting it up and using it well. Then I started reading some posts on Instagram, I visited their site and in 5 minutes my cultivation experience took a huge step forward with disarming simplicity, I couldn't believe it. I have uploaded tracking videos from the TrolMaster app for each week from the 15th to the 19th, as well as the two weeks of drying stage. ⭐ Controller Chronicles ⭐ Day after day I appreciated the clarity and precision for data, access to all settings and instant readings by connecting a WIFI router to the controller's LAN port. I loved the possibility to dim my lamps remotely, or even automatically based on the temperature in the box! 🌱 GERMINATION (2 days) Seeds in a glass of EC 0.4 tap water for 10 hours, then in root riots and under the lamp. They sprouted after 48 hours from dry seed. 🌿 GROWING STAGE (10 weeks and half) I decided to give these plants a long vegetative growth and this allowed me to do a lot of training on both. Starting from the 4th veg week I started with defoliation sessions every two weeks, for a total of four during the entire vegetative phase. The last defoliation was done a couple of days before the switch, in order to allow the lower parts of the plant to get as much light as possible. Furthermore I did Topping on week 6, cutting the apical branch, then on week 8 I did Topping again on several sites, as well as SuperCropping on the highest branches to make the canopy uniform. The light cycle I used is 18/6 and the last two veg weeks I lowered the light hours to 16/8 first and 14/10 then. During the veg stage I made 4 DWC change, PH was always between 5.5 and 6, about EC I started with 0.6 and was 1.4 on the last veg week. 🌸 FLOWERING STAGE (9 weeks) I started this phase after 36 hours of darkness, I then changed the DWCs solution (adding a flowering stimulator). Then I mounted the ScrOG-net about 50 cm from the base of the plants and I wove the phenotype #1 through the net occupying at least 60% of the available space; the phenotype #2 stretched shortly after the switch and I used the net only to widen the central branches. They showed the pre-flowers two weeks after the switch, then I made two defoliations on week 3 and 5 flo. During the last four weeks of flowering (weeks 6-9) I simply paid attention to the PH-EC levels to provide the roots with optimal conditions. I then kept the TEMP-RH-VPD-PPFD values ​​under control and this also thanks to the Tent-X controller by TrolMaster which allows me to provide optimal conditions also above. I chopped them when trichomes were about 85% milky and 15% amber. During the flowering stage PH was always between 5.8 and 6.2, about EC I started with 2 and was 2.3 on the last week before flush. ✅ HARVEST - From dry seed to harvest: 140 days (2 days germination + 75 days veg + 63 days flo). - Chopped after 4 days flush and 48 hours in dark; - Wet trim, removed fan leaves. ✅ DRYING STAGE - Time: 14 days; - Average: 20° C - 50% RH. - After that I made a dry trim, removed branches and sugar leaves. ⚖️ DRY WEIGHT - Phenotype #1: 230 gr buds + 25 gr larf; - Phenotype #2: 105 gr buds + 50 gr larf. So, the overall dry weight is: 335 gr buds + 75 gr larf. ✅ CURING STAGE - Curing is done after 30 days with Boveda 62%.

Rolling into week 7. Time to dial down the nutes and start my UVB regiment. I use Reptisun 10.0 bulbs due to LED UV's giving far less than optimal performance. Reptisun 5.0 bulbs work 2. I only run them from week 7 to flush and for only 3 hours a day within the current light cycle. Update day 45: After doing a trichome check, it finished EARLY!! Time to do a quick flush then harvest. I was going to add the nutes to the fresh water today 😂😂

COLOMBIAN JACK by KANNABIA Week #18 Overall Week #7 Flower This week no major issues she's got some nice looking buds on her the aroma coming off this lady is amazing. She's dealt with the elements for the most part!!

So not much change as far as conditions. I added Zeus juice for a bit of a boost on the humic acid front. I’ll be honest I haven’t noticed a change. Otherwise all is going well. I think I’m max a week from flipping. I might even flip on Wednesday. The scrog is about 80% full. You can see from my pictures I need to defoliate. So I think I’ll plan on doing that on Sunday. Let the rebound a bit and flip no later than next Friday. But more like Wednesday is more likely.

Buds fattening up and pistols turning orange. Some floral, skunky, diesel smell but nothing crazy, which is nice. Looking at the trichomes at Day 45, 4 weeks before planned harvest, they are looking milky. Which is weird. Maybe I’m wrong?

It's almost Christmas time, I would like to wish you a happy Christmas , a big harvest and all the best for you ✌️ Peace ✌️ fck corona ✌️we have our medicine to survive 😁

Welcome to my Animsl Mints Diary sponsored by MSNL and Spider-Farmer with their 2023 Seed release and Spider-Farmers new upgraded 2023 SE5000. Veg Days 16-25 Days 22-35 Weeks 4&5 Growth was good. Really happy and healthy. Everything was flying along. Then, sadly. All my plants were hit with 2 low Ezyme & Terpinator 4.5ph feeds that screwed up a lot of my girls. These had a rough time of it but she pulls through. For the most part it's over here. Sprayed entire crop with Vita Race. It'll help with any ill affects from the growth aspect as some grows progress. I could of hard flushed. But, that would of solved the issue, only to start a whole new one that would have suppressed growth. Have been on the slow fix approach with adjusted ph of anything given into the 6.4-6.7 range. Foliar spray as given as they are. I only applied Vita Race twice as the problem has only been an issue the plant 10 days or so. From now on, everything will be PH'ed growing in co2, there really is no room for mistakes. Imbalances or any crucial nutrient like mag if that's thrown off, the whole plant(s) seedlings have suffered. There is rapid growth. I've had flips after 4 days into veg. But, things need to be FLAWLESS. Pult Alga Grow as Recommended by the maker. Will be kept on stuff listed above. Thanks to my sponsors from MSNL & SPIDER-FARMER for the chance to try these new lights and strains. I highly appreciate it. And also to all who stop by to view, like &/r comment. Thanks. Look forward to seen your work.

Today 7/30/19, day 57 and the start of week 9. I'm still continuing to alternate between days with my pesticide treatment (especially after finding that bug living on one of hulkberries fan leaf) and thrive alive green daily foliage spray as a prophylactic solution against any possible pests or mold going into these last few dog days of veg. I will flush them with distilled ph'd water for two days this weekend in preparation for flower. Then I'll start them on some "flower fuel" bloom booster on top of my secret for success flower recipe at 1/4 of the recommended strength. Outside of that still no adverse issue to report for the end of the 8th week. After my last trim, they both have responded very nicely, I was kind of worried about fat banana stalled growth. But one thing I noticed when I topped her at the 6th node, yes the main stem stopped growing but it developed many bud sites up and down every stem. Whereas hulkberry was topped at the 8th node, she has mainly focused on developing long stems and only 2 or 3 bud sites along her stems. Even though hulkberry in structure, is much bigger than fat banana and has a way bigger root system. Fat banana is bushier and has developed way more bud sites than hulkberry. I can't tell which strain will yield the most at this point only time will tell! Also, a big shout out to "J"@RQS, thank you for the excellent customer service. Another reason why Royal Queen Seeds is top 3 in breeding!!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Qualche problema con il PH...risolto utilizzando 100% acqua piovana. Durante la prossima settimana aumento valore EC

Pure Ice cream great really well under the Spider Farmer lights in the Athena nutrition. She did get too close to the light. I should of hst her. My mistake, they will still smoke. Smells great, and is loaded in trichromes. Has a sweet creamy. Pine smell. Everything looks great. I only had minor ph issues during grow. She was thriving for a lot of it. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Pure Instinto Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Happy new year. Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au G5000 Light Amazon Link: amzn.to/4643esa UVR 40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR7SGTHS Discount code: saveurcash (Stackable)

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Hola gente!! Como veis han dado un buen estiron en 8 días, ya se ve el fruto de la poda apical, con dos ramas principales en cada planta. Color verde intenso y brillante, hoja muy ancha que nos dice que es una variedad indica pura. Las voy a inducir a floración ya, en un par de días despues de esto realizare una poda de bajos para estimular el crecimiento en altura. Como debe ser, reconozco mi fallo en no poner la semilla en macetero definitivo desde el principio, esto a hecho su crecimiento mas lento. Buenos humos para tod@s!!

Week 2 under the TS1000, another week to go and the girls will start flowering 😁 excited about all these yummy fastbud strains! The next week i will add another TS1000 to this girls as my other grow will finish!

She is reaching the end. Leaves browning off and going well. Trichomes milky but will wait for 30% amber.