lollipop 😋

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

General Hydroponic 10 GAL 20 ml MICRO 30 ml grow 10 ml bloom 15 ml calmag Ph 6.0 Roots have re-established their feet into the tub water zone and have begun to take off again. Showing more vigor then K2 atm, they caught up and make pass. Heavy LST of branches

🌸 Week 9 – Opening the Door for the Flowers Blueberry Muffin has always had an interesting personality in this tent. She's not the tallest plant. She's not the largest plant. But she's been quietly building herself into a compact flowering machine. And that's exactly why I decided that a little selective defoliation was appropriate this week. We're not trying to strip her. We're not trying to make her naked. We're simply opening some space. A few leaves here. A little overlap there. Removing foliage that is no longer helping the structure we're trying to maintain. The goal is simple: More breathing room. Better light movement. Better airflow. Less unnecessary congestion. And when you have twelve different plants sharing the same room, sometimes opening one plant slightly also helps the environment around her. That's the beauty of working with the whole garden rather than looking at each plant in isolation. ✂️ Defoliation – It's About Purpose, Not Punishment I've talked about this before, but this week is a perfect opportunity to repeat it. Defoliation isn't about removing leaves because leaves are somehow "bad." They're not. Healthy leaves are incredibly valuable. They're photosynthetic organs. They're producing the energy the plant uses to grow and develop. So when I remove a leaf, I want to have a reason. Maybe it's heavily overlapping another leaf. Maybe it's sitting inside an increasingly congested section of the canopy. Maybe it's shading a developing flower while contributing relatively little to the structure. Maybe removing it creates a much better pathway for air. And sometimes... it's simply part of cleaning the plant. That's the approach we're taking with Blueberry Muffin. Selective. Intentional. Moderate. We're not trying to win a defoliation competition. We're trying to create a healthier, more manageable flowering plant. 💨 Airflow Becomes More Important as Flowers Develop This is where the timing becomes particularly interesting. As the plant gets deeper into flower, the canopy naturally becomes more complicated. Flowers get larger. Leaves overlap. Branches carry more biomass. And spaces that were wide open earlier in the grow can gradually become pockets of dense vegetation. That's not automatically a problem. But it's something worth managing. One of the reasons I wanted to open Blueberry Muffin a little more this week was simply to maintain air movement through the plant. Good airflow doesn't mean blasting the flowers with a hurricane. It means avoiding stagnant pockets of humid air trapped inside dense vegetation. And as we move further into flowering, that's increasingly important. Because nobody wants to discover a problem after flowers have already become dense. Prevention is much easier than trying to fix a problem later. 💧 Helping the Room Breathe There's another interesting side effect to opening the canopy. The plants are collectively producing and moving a lot of moisture through transpiration. When twelve plants are sharing a relatively enclosed environment, the canopy itself becomes a major part of the room's microclimate. Opening congested areas gives moving air more pathways through the plants. That can help reduce pockets of trapped humidity around the foliage. And when the canopy breathes better, the whole room benefits. Again, this isn't about expecting defoliation to magically control room humidity. The ventilation system is still doing the heavy lifting. But good canopy management can make the environment easier to manage. And that's exactly what we're looking for. 💡 Every Photon Has Somewhere to Go Blueberry Muffin is also at an interesting size. She's approximately 75 cm tall. That's not a huge plant. And because she's relatively compact, I want to make sure the available light isn't unnecessarily intercepted by layers of foliage sitting on top of other foliage. Yes, she has support from the under-canopy and inner-canopy lighting strategy. And that's fantastic. But additional lighting doesn't mean we should deliberately create unnecessary barriers between the light and the flowers. If we can open a section naturally and allow more photons to travel through the canopy, why not? We're not trying to expose every square centimetre of the plant. We're simply making the canopy a little more efficient. Sometimes the best lighting upgrade is simply... removing something that doesn't need to be in the way. 🌸 The Flowers Are Taking Over Now And this is where the photographs become particularly exciting. The flowers are becoming increasingly obvious throughout the plant. The white pistils are still doing a lot of the visual talking, but the individual flowering sites are gaining structure and substance. She's moving away from that early-flower appearance where everything is basically a collection of little pistil-covered points. Now we're beginning to see the plant building actual floral mass. The branches are carrying their flowers with confidence. The canopy has become more compact. And the whole plant feels like she's entering another chapter. This is the stage where I stop being interested in how much she's going to stretch... and become much more interested in how much she's going to stack. ? The Blueberry Muffin Personality One thing I really appreciate about this phenotype is how different she looks when compared with some of the other genetics in the tent. She's not trying to dominate. She isn't the tallest. She doesn't have the most dramatic structure. But she's developing her own little architecture. And that's what this entire 8×8 Adventure is about. Twelve genetics. One room. One general environment. And twelve completely different answers. Blueberry Muffin's answer seems to be: "Give me some time." And now she's starting to show us why. 💚 Nutrition – Staying the Course There's no reason to reinvent the feeding programme this week. We're keeping nutrition essentially unchanged. Current feeding remains: Terra Bloom — 2.2 ml/L Pure Zym — 1 ml/L Power Buds — 1 ml/L Sugar Royal — 1 ml/L pH Plus / Lemon Kick — as required The plant continues receiving the same flowering nutrition rather than reacting to every small visual change with another adjustment. That's important. We made a structural intervention this week. We don't need to simultaneously start changing everything else. One change at a time makes the plant much easier to read. 🌡️ The Room Has Changed And this week we do have a small but interesting environmental change. The daytime temperature remains around: 29°C But the night temperature is now approximately: 26°C Last week we were around 25.6°C, so the difference isn't dramatic, but the overall night temperature is slightly warmer. That means our day/night temperature differential is now smaller. We're also sitting around: RH: 60% Solution temperature: 25°C Root-zone/substrate temperature: 25°C CO₂: ~693 ppm Light schedule: 12/12 Watering: ~1.3 L per plant / 24h Container: 15 L And I actually like observing these little changes. The room doesn't have to remain frozen in time. What matters is understanding what changed and watching how the plants respond. At this stage, with flowers getting denser, keeping the canopy open and maintaining good air movement becomes even more valuable. 🌙 Day vs Night – The Difference Matters One of the things I enjoy about documenting these numbers is that they tell us more than a single temperature reading. We're running approximately: 29°C during the day → 26°C at night. That's only about a 3°C difference. Earlier in the run, the difference was a little larger. As the room changes, so does the relationship between temperature, humidity, transpiration and plant development. And this is why I don't like looking at temperature or humidity as isolated numbers. The plant doesn't experience "29°C." It experiences: temperature + humidity + light + airflow + root-zone conditions + CO₂ + time of day. Everything interacts. And right now, I'm happy with what the room is showing us. We're watching it. We're measuring it. And we're adjusting when necessary rather than reacting to every little fluctuation. 🔬 One More Reason I Like This Defoliation There's something else happening here that I think is easy to overlook. Cleaning the plant isn't only about what remains. It's also about what we can see afterward. Once some of the unnecessary foliage is removed, I can see the flowering structure much more clearly. I can see which branches are developing strongly. I can see where flowers are stacking. I can see where the canopy remains dense. And I can see what might need attention later. In other words... defoliation also improves observation. And for this project, observation is half the fun. 🔮 Looking Ahead From here, I want to keep things relatively simple. No unnecessary training. No dramatic interventions. No chasing numbers just because they're numbers. We'll continue watching the flowers develop, monitoring the canopy and paying attention to how she responds to the cleanup. The next stage should increasingly be about: 🌸 flower stacking 🌸 calyx development 🌸 increasing resin production 🌸 increasing flower density 🌸 maintaining airflow 🌸 keeping the environment stable The framework is already there. Now we're entering the part of the journey where patience becomes more important than intervention. We've done our job. Now... let Blueberry Muffin do hers. 💭 Final Thoughts – Making Space for What's Coming I think this week is a really good example of how I like to grow. We didn't defoliate because someone told us: "Week 9 means defoliation." We did it because the plant changed. She's becoming more compact. She's developing more flowers. The canopy is getting denser. She isn't a particularly tall plant, so making the available photons work efficiently matters. And with twelve plants sharing the same room, keeping air moving through the garden matters too. So we opened her up. Not dramatically. Not aggressively. Just enough. And now she looks cleaner, more open and easier to read. That's what I wanted. Not a naked plant. A better-organised plant. And honestly... she looks fantastic. Blueberry Muffin may not have started this journey as the plant that immediately grabbed everyone's attention. But she's slowly becoming one of those phenotypes where you look back at the earlier photographs and think: "Oh... now I see what she was doing." She's been building toward this. And now she's starting to show it. ?🌸🔥 🙏 Thank You A huge thank you once again to Zamnesia for giving us the opportunity to explore these genetics, Plagron for supporting the garden throughout the journey, Future of Grow for providing the light that powers this experiment, Lumiflora for bringing additional light into the inner and lower canopy, TrolMaster for helping maintain environmental stability, and of course everyone following this 8×8 Adventure on GrowDiaries. Every week gives us another little lesson. Sometimes it's about nutrition. Sometimes it's about environment. Sometimes it's about genetics. And sometimes... it's simply about knowing when to take a few leaves away and give the plant a little more room to breathe. Blueberry Muffin is entering another chapter now. The canopy is open. The flowers are developing. The room is stable. And there's still plenty of story left to write. Until next week... Growers Love and happy growing! 🌱💚?

I got Buds! Only a about a week old so the're tiny. Just watered with some Recharge and did some pruning, looking a tad droopy but should peak up in couple hours. Over all very health looking plants, So glad I switched to organic fertilizer, saw one gnat in the garden a few days ago, so as a precaution I put up a couple sticky traps, already got mosquito dunks mixed in the top soil from last time. Haven't see him since, might be stuck on one of the traps :).

This week was explosive! I bumped up the grow nutrients and added the Bud Ignitor at 1/4 strength. I also increased the water amount progressively building up to a half gallon by the end of the week. Mid week I stepped the exhaust fan up and increased the light to about 175w. I started the “new to me” training method as well getting some nice light down into the side shoots and lower canopy. Rings were left on during light cycle and misted with plain water and rings removed before lights out. This week I also dropped the tower fan to the floor and brought the clip fan down a foot above the canopy and am running on the same schedule as the humidifier. Which is set to be on 20min before lights on and off 10 min after lights out. Thanks for stopping by and happy growing!!! 🌞

Snow panda is another atlas seeds strain that has amazed me with how awesome she grew an how frosty she got she us ending week 5 an is going into flush to harvest end of week 6 begining week 7

This is mid-week four. These pictures are up-to-date taken today. I have LED light so and little other lighting on, so excuse the picture quality. I am no longer using Air, which is an iron supplement. I only used air 2 twice in Veg. Very powerful and boosts growth rate and health.

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Been a great week, not much to say on the dynomyco as it's early stages but im sure to see major improvement over the next week! I will say at this early stage though I do have alot of stable new growth so shows something is working in them roots but as for my females now, wow it's already shown it's work there as I used it on transfer and mixed Into the medium of the rear females so I'm impressed being a first time user! I will say i have learned alot about it following ari and the firebudz team on Instagram, so if anyone needs any pointers check them out they run classes too! Next one is Wednesday at 5pm PST very very educational growmies! Peace and love and stay tuned for greatness 💪🏽💯👊🏽💚

No more fertilization. They will be harvested in 2 weeks very stinky ones.... Alll good just keep flushing them and removing upcoming yellow leaves. :) They are quote wet so just giving them 200ml.of water a day to.not to over water them.

Day 22 Flower (Day 64) Today is the first day of week four of flower. I gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.2 water, but the left girl didn't need any. She doesn't drink much since the light is turned way down not to fry her canopy more than it already has. Unfortunately, her new tent didn't show up today — hopefully, tomorrow. I also put half of an avocado on top of the soil in each pot to feed my worms. It should be a nice little treat for my worm buddies. Most of my cover crop has died now when the girls are blocking out all the lights, and I really should cover the soil in mulch, but as I'm changing to larger pots next run, I would have to remove it again in about a month, so I haven't bothered. Day 23 Flower (Day 65) Yay! The new tent finally arrived today. It is still a tiny 40x40 cm tent as that is all I can fit inside the wardrobe, but the new tent is 40 cm taller. The plant really needed the extra height since she was pressing against the light and roasting the top buds. It was a bit tricky to get the left girl out of the old tent, but by combining some McGyverism with a bit of brute force, I got her out in mostly one piece. The damage from the light wasn't as bad as a feared, although three tops were fried and a few fan leaves. Not great, but it could have been worse. I took the opportunity when she was between tents and did some defoliation/lollipopping before moving her into her new space and giving her 1.5 liters of ph 6.7 water to help her deal with the shock of being manhandled. It is lovely to have some space again, and I was finally able to turn up the light to 100%. Now those buds can start to fatten up! All I did with the right girl today was to give her 3 liters of pH 6.5 water. Day 24 Flower (Day 66) The left girl loves her new home and looks to be bouncing back nicely. She didn't need any water today, but it was the first time a tiny weed smell came out of the tent as I opened it. The right girl in my main tent is further along in flower and technically should smell more than the small tent, but the CO2 bag still overpowers everything with its sh*t smell. lol I gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.4 water today, and I also "shaved her legs" by removing some pointless leaves and branches low down on her. Finally, I started brewing some compost tea with the same recipe as last week (worm castings, rock dust, biochar, lime, bentonite, neem meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, and molasses). Still, this time it will be filtered as it is too soon for additional topdressing. The tea will brew for 24 hours, and I'll feed it tomorrow. Day 25 Flower (Day 67) All I did today was to feed each girl 3 liters of pH 6.6 compost tea as well as rearranging the main tent (moved the CO2 bag so I could move the clip fan, attached the ratchet hangers to the lights differently, and did some LST to get a branch out of the way) so I could raise the lights another 5 cm. Day 26 Flower (Day 68) Today was a really easy day. I just gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.1 water. That was it. Day 27 Flower (Day 69) I gave each girl 3 liters of pH 6.6 water today. I also took out my proper camera and tried a few quick bud shots. Just as an experiment though - handheld, no tripod, just the grow lights so no proper lighting, etc. Would love some feedback on these photos though as I'm completely new to bud photography and am looking to improve. Day 28 Flower (Day 70) The last day of the fourth week of flower and all is well in the tents. The left girl is 97 cm tall (12 cm increase in a week), and the right girl is 120 cm tall (a 3 cm increase in a week). The left girl has been stretching this week since she got her new tent (which allowed me to turn up the light.) She certainly is loving those extra photons! On the other hand, the right girl seems done with stretching and is working on fattening up the buds. All I did today was to snap some pics and videos and give the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.2 water.

Welcome to Bud Boutique Grow Diary - really appreciate all your love and support :) Dont forget to check out my other current grows! 🗓️ This Week: After 14 Days drying inside tent with about 60% rh and 18° Celcius ( I know could be even lower). - trimmed all well and put them straight into Grove bags for curing. That is the end of this Diary, thank you all for sticking with me. The next new onces are already up so feel free to check out Thank you for still staying with me 💚 ___________________________________________ --- 🌱 Strain (Sponsor) --- 🏷️ P.C.R. by Art Genetix https://www.artgenetix.world/product-page/p-c-r --- 🥗 Nutrients and Feeding (sponsored by APTUS: APTUS Ambassador) --- 🍸 APTUS: full nutrient schedule extreme -- Regulator, N-Boost, P-Boost, CaMg-Boost, K-Boost, Allin1 Liquid, Startbooster, Topbooster, Enzym+ every feeding -- Fulvic-Blast, NutriSpray as Foliar each once a week 🔗 https://aptus-holland.com/ --- ♻️ Grow Control (Sponsor) --- TROLMASTER: TENT-X + LM14 Light Adapter to dim/sunrise/sunset lights + Temp & rH Sensor all remote on App 🔗 https://www.trolmaster.eu/ --- 🚿 PetraGrow (Sponsor) --- CannaFogger Foliar Spray 🔗 https://www.petratools.com/product/petragrow-cannafogger-atomizer-new-mini-fogger --- 🏭 Grow Setup --- 💡LUMATEK Zeus Pro 600 * 🏠🌿 Indoor: Homebox 120x120x200cm (4x4) * 📐🌀 PrimaKlima exhausting Fan 1180m3/h (running on 60-80%) * 🌀 Can Light Filter 800m3/h & 1x Fanbox 1x Dyson fan for Air circulation 🔗 https://lumatek-lighting.com/zeus-600w-pro-29/ 🔗 https://primaklima.com/de/shop/ventilatoren-de/ec-ventilatoren/pk160ec-tc/ 🔗 https://canfilters.com/products/filters/ All Likes and comments are highly appreciated!!! 👨‍🌾 don't forget to check out my Instagram for daily educational content: budboutiquee - Bud Boutique

Day 32: Girls look very dark green, some clawing, and sides sticking up. These girls got too much N and maybe a little light stress. I have rearranged my gilrs in the tent, so these a getting a little less light. I have also flushed them again with some plain ph'ed water, and gave the half-strength nutes after

well, last days are ahead, I have to say it's been an interesting first grow :) the smell is amazing guys. fruity as hell! like melon..:) one of the plants has sick, brown spotted leaves, but the buds look fine. the other two has nice healthy leaves. Would you recommend a 24h dark period before I chop them?:) thanks for reading!

Happy End, ahahah 🏻💚

So I think this was the 7th week or so but I flipped to flower with a 48 hour dark period around day 53ish. I opened the tent to neon budsites!