Tough girl, I am proud of her. 💚 probably finishing in two weeks!

So just waiting for the soil to dry out on this one. Will post a harvest when it happens. Surprised i havent pulled it out yet TBH haha. Accidentally gave water with lots of nutes..........watered the wrong plant. So it got overwatered and overfed. But as its organic im not too concerned. Might be a bit rough to smoke but itll be mine!!

Good week. Careful with the nutrients. I upped mine a little to much and noticed right away. Amazing smelling. Really sticky. Careful with nuts nice plant.

Second week of flower out the way plants coming on well had a nice stretch over the last two weeks , one week to go before give them a good defoliation, conditions been spot on and haven't had a issue yet so hopefully all stays well till harvest

Just letting them grow out now i want them to continue getting taller and i will continue LST-ing throughout . They will veg for probably 4 more weeks before i flip to flower in the SCROG/Flower Tent where they will receive direct sunlight for 12/12 ALSO I MADE A HUGE MISTAKE WITH THE LABELLING i actually have 3 Grandaddy Purple clones, 2 Pineapple Express pheno #1 clones and only 1 Northern Lights clone as the plants grew i noticed the difference and similarities in characteristics

2nd time growing this strain. Was the best of the bunch last harvest under a cheap 300W LED drawing ~100W from the wall yet still gave me over 4oz Hoping under this brand new Spider Farmer SF-4000 I'll get much more. Just fed plain water in week 1.

The soil gets a new cover with fresh brewed grass mulch. I brewed hay and 15L water for 48h hours under air bubbles by 23°C. The remaining compost tea would still be used for watering. Two days later I waterted with 1,5L sf nematoden. Light Power: 80% Day 68 Flower #17 Photoshooting New mulch Defoliation Day 70 Flower #19 Watering with 1,5L sf nematoden Defoliation Day 72 Flower #21 Photoshooting

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This week I did a single topping at the 5th node. Along with this I applied low stress training and tucking to expose the new growth. The leaves seem a little dry on this one, think it’s because I needed a little better air movement In that area, rotated fans and adjusted Rh.

02/15 (M) - Prepping her to flip into flower within the next week or two - Weaved her under net for better light coverage - Running 8 drip emitters with a 5 gallon res - 45 sec feed every 8hrs. 02/15 (C) - Thus far all 15 are still kicking but they did take a hit - starter roots for all 15 have begun - I will update with pics within the next 2 weeks - Running high temps and high humidity during lights on.

2020-06-13 Going heavier on nutrients now, I went too high with my initial amount. After pH, it was a whopping EC=2200!! Too much for these ones. I had to dilute this weeks nutrition down, so I have to estimate the nutrition levels as I had to add water and pH it. I started with a whopping 7.6 mL/Liter but probably ended up with about 6.5 mL/gallonI EC=1800/ now keep calimagic constant at 3.79 mL/gallon to help buffer the solution and keep the solution stable. The additional calimagic has stopped the spread of the rust spots and new leaves are a lighter green and have stopped turning dark! Success. 2020-06-14 Thinking about doing the last topping and LST session this week and then transitioning to bloom. Thoughts on that? I have them on a 'transition feed' right now that is very nutrient dense! Started about 950 ppm for the healthier looking plant. The 2nd plant is still getting slightly less nutrients but the magnesium deficiency hasn't appeared in the newest growth. Roots are growing crazy amounts every day! You can see that the 2nd bucket plant started making tons of roots out of the side of the bucket again. Nice to see the bounce back once given adequate nutrition. I have reduced expectations for that plant but it was definitely a lesson in how to prepare and interpret feeding schedules AND how your plant is reacting to them. 2020-06-15 Did some light defoliating today, removing a lot of the lower fan leaves and sucker branches/growth tips... Going to veg for the rest of the week and then change both over to flower. 2020-06 19 Day before nutrient change, they are growing too fast now!! ahhhh!! 2020-06-20 Day of nutrient change! Took them out of the grow tent while I swapped out the buckets.

Cogollos duros como piedra!🍇🍨

Start in Woche 4. Hat sich einiges an Wuchs getan. Machen langsam den Eindruck wie richtige Pflanzen. Bisher scheint alles ok zu sein. Muss sich auch nicht ändern. Beleuchtung auf 30 DLI bei max 700 PPFD geändert. Schaunmermal, ob sie das aushalten, begrüßen oder neg. reagieren. Zeitraffer der vorhergehenden Woche am. Ende der Bilderreihe. Update 1: Die LCC hat jetzt ne LT Spange. Bei den anderen beiden gings nicht, weil der Wuchs zu kompakt ist. Internodienlänge ist echt kurz. Mal abwarten, wann es diese oder nächste Woche nochmal ne Chance gibt.

May 31 , first day outside 5 X Caramelo EV in 40 gallon fabric pot 3 X Sugar Black Rose EV in 50 gallon fabric pot 2 X Eleven Roses EV in 100 gallon fabric pot

CONTEST TEKNOGROW INDOOR BARNEY'S FARM PURPLE PUNCH RUNTZ MUFFIN GROWER RIK www.teknogrow.it Instagram @teknogrow

Look at her showing up with new growth…no complaints with her.

Day 77 1 week with no feed just water & Calmag and they faded like crazy.... Guava going yellow leafs Guava fig Brown like dry Mango frost leaf have a purple fade... they will go down on friday .. when home visit is over... heheh i had to cut a Guava RF3 due to being more than ready as shown on the video...

This week I had to Lollipop again (I know is very late and I hope I didn’t stressed the plant to much). My canopy is so tick and so many overlapping leaves and buds in the center of the plant that don’t receive enough light or any at all , n combination with the RH swings that I got going on (45 and 63 RH), I’m very afraid of mold. I should have did a better job at Lollipoping from day 21. I’m inexperienced grower and I didn’t knew better. I decided is better to risk to shock the plant a little bit risking a reduction in yield then get mold or pests and lose it all. My 30 pin dehumidifier works great with the AC but sometimes when the AC( compressor) stops my RH jump at 62% -63%, witch I don’t like . I’m trying to keep the humidity around 50% but in such a small room between the AC and Dehumidifier I got big swings in temp ( 75-82) and RH ( 45%-63%) witch is not ideal but is nothing that I can do. I played with the AC and Dehumidifier setting a lot trying to keep humidity around 50% and temp around 80 degrees and that’s the best I can. My AC is set at 82 degrees and my Dehumidifier is set at 45% RH. Also during the lights off (day time) is very hard to keep the temperature In control when outside is 110-115 degrees with my portable AC (1400BTU) in the 4x 6 closet. Is crazy but I do my best to keep temp under control. This is another rocky mistake I made is trying growing weed DWC in the middle of summer where temps are 105-115 degrees constant in a closet without centralized AC port and at second level in the building. LOL Also I think I underfed her (630 PPM TDS, PH 5.8-5.9) ) and I got a Ca deficiency witch I think is the reason my flowers developed slower then I anticipated. Hopefully I’m wrong and everything will be good. P.S. I got a little bit of calcium deficiency caused by salt buildup (to much PK boost) despite my earlier belief that is underfed. I increased the PPM from week 4 (630-640TDS) to 680 TDS) on week 5 while I kept the PK booster at 3+ml l per gallon. Slightly my PPM’s was rising in my reservoir for few days until I decided that my plant can’t take that much nutrients (PK). 2-3 days after I increased the TDS I’ve noticed more spots on the lower leaves with tip burns on top ( first signs of PK toxicity). One day later found spots and yellowing of the leaves on top of the plant that indicates Ca deficiency caused by salt buildup ( PK toxicity) and reversed osmosis (hope I’m not wrong). Going into week 6 I lowered the PK boost at 1.5ml / gallon and total TDS to 640 PPM. Seems like leaves damage to stop and my PPM to stay stabile at 630-640. Trying to keep PH at 5.8 max 5.9. I will post pictures of my Ca deficiency/ PK toxicity. If you guys have any suggestions please leave me a comment.