exelentw

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Ich glaube es geht aufs ende zu oder warum sehen die blätter in der hinteren reihe so schlecht aus

Week 1 flower Keeping them on veg nutes till stretch is done so about 3 weeks Slowly lowering the light every day I will keeping tucking them under the net to fill the net and keep a even canopy . I will do this for 2 weeks , then lollipop and defoliate

Fed with lotus 5/19/26 Fed with water 5/21/26

Crecimiento espectacular! Siguen explotando en resina y cálices. Da gusto abrir el armario cada día y observar el desarrollo que tienen. Se les realizó una defoliación a medianos de semana. Ahora ya regamos solo con agua, controlando el pH para dejarlo a 6.2 y conseguir un ph residual de 6.5

She had some damaged leaves, looking like mud but i think she just got burned a bit. I removed the damaged leaves and Hope she'll recover fast🍁

12/30/23 - Day 54 - Hello All! I started this week a day early. I wanted to update everyone on something I have been thinking about a lot. Curing. I feel if there was a hole in my growing skills it would be curing. Last grow there was more than I had anticipated. I was not set up for curing 1 lb. I threw in an audible at the last minute. It worked out but I know I can improve with some trial and error and hands-on experience. So after reading a ton, and going off of some of my prior builds for drying, I came up with this design. I have a controller that will turn the air on and will run when the contents inside the box hit whatever RH% I want to set it at. I think the first week I will set it for 78%RH, then every couple of days go down a % until I hit 62%. The thought is that if the bucket gets above the set RH% then the air will kick on and distribute air across the buds until the RH% is back down to where you want it. It will force the humidity out. I won't need to worry about burping. It will happen on its own.... in theory. Ill update tomorrow with some pictures after the water change. 12/31/23 - Day 55 - Everything is looking good. The water change completed this morning while I was in the shower. Its adding nutes now and will do so over the next hour or so. She is starting to get stinky. I had to add the extra carbon filter to the room. I've got some pics up top of that. Happy New Year! Next time I post it will be in 2024! Have a great night and be safe! Dont drink and drive, your life and anyone else involved in an accident is too important! C' YA! 1/4/24 - Day 58 - I have been thinking of trimming her for a while.... I got a comment on the bushy-ness and I got self-conscious and gave her a trim. Lol I have been going bath and forth for a while and that gave me the push to give her a little trim. She looks great and is growing really quickly. Ill update with more pics as it goes along.

C’est vraiment magnifique de la voir fleurir. Elle démontre constamment une belle vigueur. Ont voit déjà que les pépites seront compact. Avec les nutriments organiques qui favorisent la production de terpènes c’est à tomber par terre. Moins fidèle à la pure skunk elle dégage quand même une odeur très forte , Extrêmement sucré et doux !!

Cut at 9 weeks. Organic 1 gallons work great

Así es como empezamos la tercera semana,seguimos con humedad alta pero la vamos controlando.. Estos días da buen tiempo la humedad en la calle será mucho más baja así podré meter aire sin tanta humedad.. De momento todo bien en el cultivo ningún problema hasta la fecha. Ya podéis ver,y comentar sobre algo que veáis que yo no! Como dicen! Ven veinte ojos mejor que dos! 🖖 Día 12 Último fungicida prevención mutritis,hongos humedad. Primer riego foliar hormonas producción de flores. 🌹 Día 13 Nada en especial solo observar si veo algún cambio tras las hormonas,aún no veo grandes observaciones fuera de lo natural del paso de los días. En el día de mañana por lo que me recomendó el fabricante se verán los resultados a la vista! Comentar que seguimos con la iluminación al 100x100 de capacidad Marshydro sp3000 x2 Hero led Ignator t720 Yxo led 60w ir+un espectro completo En la siguiente semana me llega el nuevo driver de philips para poder conectar la lámpara de IR que pude adquirir a Yxo nuevamente! Lampara led espectro completo + IR 70w . Me vendrá muy bien para el pequeño espacio de la puerta que necesita más iluminación para poder desarrollar bien esas dos plantas,de la entrada. La humedad fue cosa del pasado. Evite el uso de desumificador eléctrico añadiendo varios de sales,deciros que funcionan muy bien no dan un control exacto pero mantienen una humedad interior estable para todo el periodo de floración! 50% de humedad lo demuestra! Hoy añadi un poco más de sustrato. 110 litros exactamente sobre la cama de cultivo que tenía de topcrop con humus de lombriz,tierra diatomeas y alimentada con npk. Después de eso tengo en mi cama de cultivo 810 litros de sustrato para mis 44haze. 💐 Saludos Día 14 Anulado el intractor,ya que el propio extractor mete aire fresco por las rendijas de ventilación.. En lo largo de la noche iré viendo el resultado en datos.. Ya coloque los soportes para la nueva iluminación que en estos días llega su driver de sustitución E visto que algunas plantas en estos dos días están en 67-70cm.. Ya colocado el sistema de riego para evitar más pisadas en el cultivo ya que algunas se realentizaron por pisar encima de sus raíces.. Le e metido una pequeña poda de bajos para airear más la zonas bajas del cultivo. Pequeño riego de folacion con remedio de agua azúcar para dos que estaban más estresadas. Día 15 Hoy era día de regar pero el sustrato aún parece húmedo en gran proporción aplazare el riego. Día 16 Hoy me acerqué a ver las niñas en caso de que necesitaran algo.. Se ve todo correcto parece que no tienen mucha sed.. llevamos todo el día de alta humedad y lluvia en el exterior.. Las dejaré hoy sin riego también. El sustrato está bien alimentado. Mañana seguramente se presente el armario con una plantación pidiendo agua a gritos!! Jejeje.. así comerán con más ganas!,veremos qué tal..

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 49 and she's just killing💀it👌 The Smell has kicked in and is wonderful 😀 👉We are in full out flowering 💐 and its looking great 👈 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the first few feedings 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm helping out with some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Another beautiful week with this lovely lady

Very healthy looking seedling, starting to grow very fast, she's got a great size for 14 days only and I think I'll transplant her in a couple of days more when she is 17 days or so like the other ones in this run, they grow extremely fast under the tsl2000 by mars hydro, very happy with the results I'm achieving in terms of growth, I hope the same in flower! I have Transplanted this lady into her definitive 11l pot on February 6th which is her day 17 since she was planted, she's 4 days younger than the rest of the plants in this 2x4 run, she's looking very healthy and strong, let's see how she keeps developing herself!

Día 27 (20/05) Riego con 250 ml de Té de Compost Día 28 (21/05) Vuelven a tener sed! Las riego con 250 ml sólo H20 pH 6.2 Día 29 (22/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O+ Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + Startbooster 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l- pH 6.2 NYC Diesel Auto vuelve a recibir aplicación foliar de sales de Epson (4 g/L) porque presenta de nuevo ligera clorosis Día 30 (23/05) N/A Día 31 (24/05) N/A Día 32 (25/05) Las plantas no paran de crecer! 😍 Día 33 (26/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l- pH 6.2 💦Nutrients by Aptus Holland - www.aptus-holland.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae