This gorgeous lady is fire, what a beautiful girl she has become after that mainlaining, I'll probably tight those 4 main colas down to start doing LST, let's see how this lady keeps developing, she's getting nothing but water as she has FLO on her soil, I love to see how healthy my ladies are,, specially this mimosa evo pheno #1 has made fall in love 😍, stay tuned to this diary boys and girls!! Let's see what happens

This round is going great, I didn't top them the extra time and they have just absolutely loved it. Supercropping has to be the better option. Last round did hit my highest numbers but I feel this is just going to make that feel like amateur hour. These girls are huge and thick, I can't wait to see how some of these Hunts turn out.

Day 22: Honestly didn't think I would have made it this far. The girls are looking great minus a couple of issues. I have over watered them and over fed too! Not to mention trying to LST too early. I will wait a bit longer before watering this time. Day 23: MORNING - They were super dry. I have been over watering a bit so I watered maybe 1/2 gallon for all 6. I also did some more LST and took 1 large fan leaf off of each plant. I will update again before lights out. Day 23: NIGHT - The girls are responding very well to the LST. I don't think they are liking the 80°. I am starting to have issues with lower humidity again. I need to try and figure some sort of ducting out or possibly even get a small AC unit for the grow room. Day 24: MORNING - I removed a couple more leaves that were covering potential bud sites. I have also done a partial main-line on the smallest girl. It looks to be already showing pistols. I've had to open the tent with a big fan blowing directly in with the humidifier behind it. The girls were getting hot and dry. Day 24: NIGHT - Well 5 are showing to be female. The biggest plant is showing no signs of sex. I am guessing it will be the mystery seed. I will be doing no more LST to these ladies for at least a week or better. I think I have stressed them out enough the past 2 days. Day 25: These girls are very resilient!! I tortured them all weekend and the one I nopped off to do a sort of mainline grew by 20% at least. Day 26: It is the official 3 week mark today and the girls are starting to flower. I tied em down to get light to all bud sights. I will 100% not touch them unless they need it from this point!!!! They are soo small and I need not stunt them any more!! I have removed the Mystery Seed as it looks to be a male and I do not want to take the chance!! Also fed and watered today. Only 200 ppm for the feed. Day 27: Nothing new to report. These girls are gonna be tiny :| I must've stressed em too much too soon :( Looking good though I think! 💪 Day 28: I never do what I say. Dumb! Broke main stem on one of the best plants. Taking it as a lessons learned. It's been two hours and she looks SICK! Oh well.

day 15 - 27/11/2025. all looking good, healthy foliage all around. beginning of week 3. did a early def on the tiniest of them all, due to her leaves shadowing herself. so hopefully it will help her to get more light into the canopy

The start was easy as it gets just add water the first 20 days and LST every day. When i saw some of the lower leaves start to change color that's when i started to add nuits. after that it was just following the instructions foxfarm already had laid out for me. I cut back by half in the start of my feeds but by the end of my grow I was at full strength. Testing your run off is key. Cropking send me great seeds and genetics is a great foundation and starting point. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I was very happy I got almost 5 ounces off one plant.

Looking closer and closer to being finished with this one.. I lowered the ppms down to 600. May need to go lower most the tops look like they are finishing up. This one is pretty massive filling my 5x5 tent pretty good and the root production out of this 6" net cup is pretty gnarly. Definitely not lacking any quality either. Buds smell delicious and are super sticky.

Day 15 Flower (Day 57) The first day of week 3 of flower. I switched the light recipe in my main tent from the Flower Induction program to the Flower program now when the right girl is in flower. I also gave her 3 liters of pH 6.1 water. The left girl didn't need any water though. That was all today. Day 16 Flower (Day 58) All I did today was to give each girl 3 liters of pH 6.5 water. Day 17 Flower (Day 59) I gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 5.9 water today. It's a bit low maybe (added too much pH down and was too lazy to fix it) but should be alright. My pH is different each watering anyway, as I aim to optimize nutrient uptake by covering a broader pH range. The left girl didn't need any today as she drinks a lot less due to being smaller. That being said, she is now hitting the light :/ It was never my intention to grow her in such a confined space, but here we are. She should have been trained differently and vegged shorter to grow correctly in such a small space. I have ordered a new, taller tent which will arrive next week. Until then, she'll be snug, and I don't think I can take any canopy pics for a few days. I started brewing some compost tea following the same recipe as previously (worm castings, rock dust, biochar, lime, bentonite, neem meal, kelp meal, and molasses), but I upped the castings, the neem, and the kelp. Long overdue as it was over two weeks since last time. I will feed this tea (unfiltered) tomorrow after 24 hrs of brewing. Day 18 Flower (Day 60) Today I gave each girl 3 liters of pH 6.3 compost tea that brewed for 26 hours. I also added a few tablespoons worth of alfalfa seeds that I ran through a blender first to beat up into a powder. I didn't filter the tea, so all ingredients ended up as a top dressing that will get watered in as time goes. The small tent is packed, and the girl is pressing up against the light. It got to hold out until next week, so it is what it is. It is getting a bit cramped in the main tent as well, so I moved up the lights as far as I could without going full McGyver. It's the first time I grow this strain, but she sure is a stretcher. The weather has gotten warm here (finally!), but of course, now my tent is getting even hotter. I'm trying to combat it to some extent by running the extractor fan more. That will get the temp down a bit, but unfortunately, it will also cause the humidity to drop. I put in my small humidifier to help with that, so the VPD is still in a reasonable range. Day 19 Flower (Day 61) I defoliated the right girl today by removing some leaves and branches low down where the lights don't reach. The left girl must also be done, but I'll work on her when she is between tents next week. I also gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.5 water. That was it for today. Day 20 Flower (Day 62) All I did today was to water each girl with 3 liters of pH 6.7 water. I hope that my new tent arrives sooner rather than later since the left girl is pushing up so much against the light that the top flowers are starting to get burnt. Wonderful... :( I've turned down the light as low as it goes (15%), that's pretty much all I can do except turning off the light completely. Day 21 Flower (Day 63) The last day of the third week of flower and things are moving along nicely except for the crowded tent, but hopefully, the new tent will solve that in a day or two. The left girl is 85 cm tall (17 cm increase in a week), and the right girl is 117 cm tall (also a 17 cm increase in a week). There wasn't much to do today. I gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.5 water and snapped a few pics. That's all.

I think 2 more weeks of flower for the normal phenos and a lot more weeks for my long veg. Pheno of Fat Banana

FINALLY STARTING THE PHOTOPERIODS AND I HOPE MY TIMING IS GOOD FOR CHOPPING THE AUTOFLOWERS..........SEEDS PUT INTO THE SOIL ON JUNE 22ND. SORRY TO EVERYONE WHO TRIES TALKING TO ME....I STILL CANT TALK TO ANYONE BECAUSE I TRIED CHANGING MY EMAIL ON HERE AND IT MESSED EVERYTHING UP. I CANT LIKE ANYTHING OR COMMENT ON ANYTHING. THE WORST IS I CANT JOIN CONTESTS STRIVE NUTRIENTS IS THE BEST IVE EVER USED. A MUST TRY AND I BUY IT MYSELF. GOT A SAMPLE LAST YEAR AND ITS SO GOOD I BOUGHT MORE. ITS A 2 PART POWDER NUTRIENT THAT DISSOLVES IN MINUTES AND YOU MIX THE SAME STRENGTH OF THE 2 PART NUTRIENTS FROM WEEK 2 UNTIL THEY ARE FINISHED (BESIDES THE FLUSH), NO MORE BULLSHIT OF SWITCHING TO BLOOM FERTILIZER. THATS MY FAVORITE THING BESIDES THE RESULTS. CHECK EM OUT AND BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ BECAUSE ITS NO BULLSHIT, AWESOME FRIENDLY AND HONEST PEOPLE

On day 6 week 4 She is putting out alot of pistills and budlets no smell yet.flowering is deff underway now. This is looking like a 10 week strain as she took almost 4 weeks to start budlets which I usually see around week 2-3.

Mi sono dovuto assentare perciò quando ritorno in sede indoor farò una desfogliata importante e le metterò poi a 12 ore Questa volta provo con 24 ore di buio,1 giorno a 11/13.. poi fisso l'orario classico 12/12..dicono che si velocizzi la fioritura... vedremo.. A vederle in un video sembra tutto a posto...😅

Week 6 is has just passed.. Haven't done anything different than last week... She is in FULL FLOWERING... producing hairs like crazy... hope it keeps on like this... fingers crossed👍

crap.... despite the fact that she was growing quite slowly, I still managed to break her :( 21 days, I don't know if it's worth leaving what's left. She's auto and I'm sure she'll have a baby at the end of the week

WEEK 5 SETUP - ROOT ZONES Optimizing cannabis performance requires balancing a strict temperature gradient between a cool root zone (68°F–72°F) to maximize dissolved oxygen and active nutrient transport, and a warm canopy (77°F–95°F) to accelerate photosynthetic enzyme activity and electron transport rates. There is a critical anatomical temperature gradient required for optimal cannabis metabolism: The Root Zone (68°F–72°F): Must be kept cool to maximize dissolved oxygen, preventing root rot (Pythium) and ensuring active transport ATP powers root elongation. The Metabolic Sweet Spot (77°F–95°F): The primary Electron Transport Chain (ETC) enzymes and ATP synthase complexes in the foliage require these warmer temperatures to maximize molecular collisions, accelerating respiration and carbon fixation. The Destruction Threshold (104°F): Enzymes and lipid membranes denature, causing structural metabolic collapse. Active transpiration constantly pulls dissolved O2 down through the top of the substrate like a piston. At night, the top-down pump completely stops. When transpiration shuts down after dark, the root zone can quickly become stagnant and oxygen-depleted because the mechanical "pump" is off, while the roots still need to breathe. Having a hole in the middle of the 100 gallon, in which all the air intake in an indoor grow tent comes up through the middle of the pot rather than open side panels, and having tent exhaust connected to RH allows cellular respiration to enact the exhaust, which creates a negative pressure differential that will act as a pump at night similar to daytime, but with a different mechanism. By routing your intake exclusively through a central hole in the pot and linking the exhaust to a Relative Humidity (RH) controller, you are effectively replacing the daytime transpiration-driven pull with a nighttime vapor-driven physical pull. Because the side intake vents are sealed, the tent is forced to draw its replacement air directly up through the center of your massive pot. This actively pulls stagnant, CO2-heavy air out of the root zone and replaces it with fresh, oxygenated room air. UVC 264nm duct sealed with HEPA filters to prevent contamination of pathogens. Constant airflow of 0.2m/s underside of the elevated pot to prevent potential runoff stagnation. Polystyrene insulation to prevent core desiccation, HVAC climate-matched intake, inline UVC/HEPA filtration, and constant underside air velocity are successfully engineered around every major failure point. Because cellular respiration spikes RH in waves, ensure your exhaust controller has a tight deadband (e.g., +/- 2-4% RH). This prevents the fan from "hunting" (short-cycling on and off too rapidly), which would cause erratic pressure shifts in the root zone. Using large-sized Hydroton (expanded clay) pebbles fill a 12-to-14-inch diameter middle cavity in the pot solves the air channeling problem entirely. By replacing a dense substrate core with a highly porous, structural aggregate, it creates a dedicated internal air plenum. This ensures that the negative pressure differential acts uniformly across the entire vertical column of the root zone. Often referred to as a sub-surface aeration plenum or negative-pressure root system. By using negative pressure to pull or push conditioned air through a Hydroton (expanded clay pebble) plenum, this setup optimizes the root zone microclimate while preventing the typical gas stratification found in traditional containers. The 12-to-14-inch Hydroton layer acts as a high-porosity distribution vault. Because Hydroton has massive interstitial spacing, air can move through it with minimal resistance before diffusing into the denser substrate above. Instead of air channeling up a single path, the system forces the conditioned air to spread outward and upward evenly across the entire radius of the root mass. Roots actively consume Oxygen and respire Carbon Dioxide (CO₂). In standard pots, heavy CO₂ and excess Nitrogen can settle at the bottom, creating an anaerobic "dead zone." This negative pressure actively pulls those heavy gases out, replacing them with oxygen-rich, HVAC-conditioned air. Roots that penetrate the polystyrene/mesh barrier into the Hydroton core will experience incredible growth due to the hyper-oxygenated environment. However, because of the high nighttime airflow, the surfaces of the Hydroton will dry rapidly after irrigation. This will create a localized, self-regulating air-pruning zone, forcing the plant to explode with dense, lateral feeder-root branching just outside the core. Turns one's massive pot into a bi-directional, lung-like matrix. Equipped to destroy all limits set before it with nearly zero points of failure. With these safeguards implemented, the root zone environment achieves an unprecedented level of equilibrium. The plant drives the system. High transpiration creates a powerful top-down pull, dragging oxygenated moisture through the upper profile. The HVAC and HEPA/UVC intake runs passively or under low static pressure to maintain ideal ambient baselines. Transpiration ceases(Photosynthesis), and metabolic cellular respiration triggers a spike in relative humidity. The RH controller instantly fires the exhaust fan. The negative pressure vacuum instantly engages the clean, conditioned cohesive air column. Fresh air sweeps through the sealed duct on the underside of the buffer zone(pot), enters the 12-to-14-inch Hydroton plenum, and diffuses radially outward through the HVAC-controlled substrate. Stagnant CO₂ and nitrogen are actively evacuated. This setup prevents root rot, boosts oxygen levels at the root zone, and accelerates plant growth by ensuring the root system always breathes fresh air. Polystyrene keeps the core from drying out prematurely, the physical barrier keeps the media from migrating into the plenum, and the climate-controlled intake ensures the root zone never drops below its metabolic sweet spot. In standard growing systems, a root zone of this massive scale always runs into a diminishing return curve: the larger the pot, the easier it is to create cold, stagnant, anaerobic dead zones in the deep interior. This design completely smashes that ceiling. By turning the absolute center of the mass into the cleanest, highest-flowing, most oxygen-rich zone in the entire garden, it allows the root system to expand exponentially without ever hitting a wall. One is giving the plant the ultimate foundation to maximize its genetic potential, pushing growth rates, nutrient uptake, and overall vitality to their absolute limits. Also allows intake while catching all CO2 generation in the bottom half of the tent, kicking it up into the canopy every morning, even all around with 360 distribution, zero dead spots. Sub-surface aeration and magneto-electroculture matrix: a highly sophisticated, closed-loop engineering framework that perfectly bridges plant physiology with fluid dynamics and electromagnetic physics. By turning a traditional container into a bi-directional pneumatic lung, the design successfully bypasses the biological stagnation limits of massive root zones while leveraging micro-Lorentz forces to enhance nutrient mobility. Integrating a massive copper rod with an iron core (an electromagnet core) directly down the central axis of the Hydroton plenum—and driving a magnetoelectric field at the base using a neodymium magnet—shifts setup from a basic galvanic circuit to a specialized magneto-electroculture matrix. Running the earth battery's DC current through a highly conductive copper casing insulated around a ferromagnetic iron core transforms the central air column into an inductive broadcast tower for the rhizosphere. Just big enough to fill the massive root zones but not enough to leave the 4x4 tent. The physics and structural safety of this addition alter the system's dynamics in a couple of ways. Copper is an excellent electrical conductor but is non-magnetic. By wrapping the high-permeability iron core inside that copper column, you focus and amplify any magnetic flux lines generated by the circulating micro-currents. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ 38 mm OD x 19 mm ID x 6 mm N52. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ ⚠️Keep it well away from pacemakers, credit cards, mechanical watches, and sensitive magnetic sensors.⚠️ There is a permanent neodymium magnet at the base of this core, inducing an electrical current; this creates a localized electromagnetic actuator. Because it sits at the bottom of the plenum (where HEPA/UVC filtered intake air enters), the air moving up the column passes through a dense, structured magnetic gradient. As HVAC-conditioned water droplets and dissolved nutrient ions flow outward from the Hydroton plenum into the biochar, they cut perpendicularly through this magnetic field. This exerts a micro-Lorentz force on the free ions, altering their kinetic trajectories and potentially boosting ion mobility through the substrate's high-impedance boundaries. The central rod is sealed in a non-conductive jacket below the soil to allow the magnetic field to pass through while physically isolating the raw metal from moisture. Iron cores radically increase magnetic field strength, but they also introduce electrical resistance. If the current from the earth battery hits a bottleneck in the central rod, that energy transforms into heat. Given the root zone has a strict oxygen threshold above 75°F, use a digital multimeter to verify the central rod is not acting as a heating element. Copper is highly toxic to plant roots in elevated atomic concentrations. Because the central plenum experiences a massive, nightly rush of high-humidity air driven by the pneumatic exhaust lung, an unsealed copper rod will oxidize rapidly. This creates copper carbonate or copper sulfate runoff that will toxicify the hydroton pruning zone. Luckily, we don't top water in that zone. Roots exhibit magnetotropism (growth responses to magnetic alignment). A constant, hyper-intense magnetic field can distort root elongation or cause root tips to prematurely deviate from their lateral path toward the biochar. Ensure input voltage stays strictly in the micro-current range to keep the magnetic flux lines subtle and non-disruptive. The permanent magnetic field has a profound, measurable effect on the surrounding rhizosphere. Placed right in the middle of the massive 100-gallon pot, the 38 mm neodymium magnet acts as a powerful bio-magnetic anchor. Because the magnet is completely sealed and safe from corrosion, its magnetic lines of force will constantly radiate into the soil matrix. In plant biology and soil science, this triggers several notable physical and biological shifts. Water molecules are diamagnetic (weakly repelled by magnetic fields). When water moves through the soil near the magnet—whether from watering or root suction—the strong permanent magnetic field temporarily loosens the hydrogen bonds between water clusters. It breaks larger water groupings into smaller, highly uniform clusters. This "magnetized water" moves through soil capillaries more fluidly, lowering surface tension and allowing the roots and surrounding microbes to absorb moisture and dissolved ions much more efficiently. The field stimulates soil enzymes like phosphatase, which unlocks bound phosphorus in the soil and turns it into a bioavailable form for the plant. Many beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR), including nitrogen-fixing strains, are magnetically sensitive and show increased activity and modular clustering under a magnetic field. The field strengthens the communication networks among soil microbes, which actively boosts the plant's natural tolerance to environmental stressors like salt or drought. Roots exhibit a subtle trait known as magnetotropism. Plant cells use internal electrical gradients to guide growth and transport nutrients. The permanent magnetic field alters the transport kinetics across cell membranes, influencing auxin (growth hormone) distribution. As roots grow into the middle zone of the 100-gallon pot, they will likely develop denser branch networks and thicker root hairs to maximize surface area contact. Magnetic field strength drops off drastically with distance. A 38 mm neodymium magnet exerts a massive effect on the soil within a 10–20 cm (4–8 inch) radius around it. In the 100-gallon pot, it will not drastically affect the outer edges of the soil, making it a perfectly sized "core zone". The roots must grow relatively close to the center to interact with the high-flux zone of the field. Once they do, 432. Explosion. Those faint, clean yellow tips with zero browning, crispiness, or structural curling are not a sign of disease; they are a system-level operational signal from a plant running at maximum physical capacity. The system uses a 1.34 kPa leaf VPD, an N52 bio-magnetic anchor, and an active earth battery; the plant's water and mineral translocation is running at an incredibly high velocity. When a cannabis plant experiences zero osmotic shock but displays clean yellow margins at the extreme tips, it points to one of two high-performance phenomena: 1. The Terminal Mineral Lag (The Gilded Edge). Aggressive transpiration stream is pulling mobile nutrients (like Nitrogen and Potassium) up the vascular xylem effortlessly. However, calcium, boron, and certain trace elements are heavy, slow-moving, and immobile. Because the Electron Transport Rate (ETR) is firing so fast under the multi-fixture matrix, the leaf cells are multiplying and expanding at an exponential rate. The faint yellow tips represent the absolute furthest point from the root zone—the terminal ends of the leaf template. The slow-moving, structural minerals are experiencing a minor distribution lag trying to reach the very end of the leaf grid before the light-dependent reactions demand them. 2. Early Photo-Regulatory Nudging (Incipient NPQ)At 84°F and 60% RH, your stomata are completely open. If your 14-fixture light matrix is pushing a high PPFD, the chloroplasts at the very tips of the leaves—which receive the most uniform light and highest wind velocity—are operating at 100% saturation. The faint yellowing means the plant has initiated Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ) at its furthest boundary. It is temporarily slowing down chlorophyll production right at the tip to dissipate excess photon energy as heat, protecting the rest of the leaf blade from building up harmful Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). By incorporating marine crustacean biomass (shrimp and crab chitin) into the substrate catalyzed by the N52 magnetic anchor and an earth battery, this engineers a highly advanced biochemical trigger. In standard agriculture, elicitors are used topically to simulate pest pressure. In this system, chitin functions as a continuous, molecular sub-surface signal. When this organic polymer interacts with the super-fluid, magnetized water, it unlocks a powerful bio-energetic loop that forces the plant to maximize terpene synthesis without experiencing actual tissue damage. Raw chitin is a dense, insoluble polymer made of long chains of N-acetylglucosamine. In a typical organic soil, breaking down this structure takes months. However, your root zone features active soil electrolysis and magnetically restructured water: The Micro-Solvation Process: Water molecules passing through the 10–20 cm high-flux N52 magnetic gradient undergo diamagnetic restructuring. Their hydrogen bonds loosen, lowering surface tension and turning the moisture into a superfluid. This highly fluid water penetrates the crystalline structure of the crustacean biomass much faster than standard irrigation water. Enzymatic Acceleration: The earth battery's direct-current micro-voltage alters localized redox states, increasing the metabolic speed of beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR). These microbes rapidly produce chitinase enzymes, cleaving the dense chitin chains into low-molecular-weight, highly bioavailable chito-oligosaccharides.

DAY 27, most of the plants are flowering, LST works so well. I'm worried because some of them seems to have advance, I don't think the buds should be that big for their age, maybe the heat stress made them flowering faster ? Moreover, some plants have their lower leaves turning yellow, I don't know what it is, give them nutrients once every 2 watering and I'm being very light with the amount of nutrients. Ordered 2 cooltubes, one for each light, it will help to cool down the room, gotta pick them up at the store and use them today. DAY 33, I followed your advices guys and added a bit of each nutrients for their deficiencies, don't know exactly if it was Ca, Mg or N deficiency but I can tell how better they are ! Water pH between 6,2 and 6,5 with 3acid down, hygro 55%. Because of the lower hygro for flowering stage, temp is going higher, I'll try my best to take care of them because another heat wave is coming... Thinking about reducing the light time to 12/12

Blueberry Lime Kush AD

6/22 Some pictures didn't upload but that's probably a good thing. As long as the video went up its good. I need to take less pictures. I'm glad I watered the plants in the back with a premixed gallon last night as we didnt get nearly the rain I thought we would. It's small showers throughout the day. The plants are getting enormous. A couple have revegged. Mostly the 10th planet. The others aren't anywhere near as impacted. Boy are some of these stalks thick. I chose to keep a couple plants that could be grown naturally without topping or fimming. I like to see the structure of the tree bit with humidity like this 98%rh it's easy to get botrytis. That's why it's good sometimes to have multiple bid sites so your proverbial eggs aren't all in one basket. But you do end up with a massive cola. I think that mk ultra with the big fan leavescis just going to be one giant bud. That's what it's looking like. Oh and today is the summer solstice. Longest day of the year. 6/23 WATERED EVERYTHING. USED FIVE AND A HALF GALLONS. EVERYTHING GOT AT LEAST A HALF GALLON. Despite the rain we got and the bags still having some heft I decided to water. It's 80 at 9am. It's supposed to he in the upper 90's today and coukd break 100° tomorrow. I hate that the grow bags are black. That's way to hot for the plants. I should find some empty soil bags and wrap the black fabric for a couple days. A sunscreen might help but I doubt much. We'll see how it goes. 6/24 It's 90° at 9am. It's supposed to break 100° amd stay there a while. Up to 106°. Plants looked awesome this morning. I wasn't sure what I'd find. Today is the worst of the days. If it didn't break 100 yesterday it was damn close all day and the girls look GREAT. I WATERED AGAIN TODAY. I USED 6.5 GALLONS TO WATER THE GARDEN. It was nice cool well water too so they should like that. Branches are getting longer and I'm training as the get bigger. I need to put up the trellis but I'm not doing it in this heat. EDIT: 90° @ 6PM WENT OVER AND AS PREDICTED THE TWO TENS WERE DROOPING. IM WONDERING IF THEY WILL BE ABLE TO FINISH IM THOSE TENS. LAST YEAR I HAD ONE THAT WAS HUGE IN A TEN BUT IT JUST DEVELOPED INDIVIDUAL CALYXS WITHPUT CONNECTING. CHECK IT OUT ON LAST YEARS DIARY. IF THATS THE CASE I SHOULD KIGHT DEP THEM BECAUSE THEYRE GETTING BIG. I WATERED THE TWO TENS WITH ABOUT A HALF GALLON AND I USED WHAT WAS LEFT OF THAT COLD WELL WATER ON THE 10TH PLANET IN THE 30. SHITS LIGHTER THAN USUAL BUT LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. THE REST CAN WAIT UNTIL THE MORNING FOR THEIR WATERING. TOMORROW TOPS OUT AT 85° WHICH WILL BE MUCH BETTER. IM LOVING MY STRAIN CHOICES RIGHT NOW. 6/25 It's super humid out but much cooler. I think it's like 80 at noon time. I had to water the two tens this morning. I didn't really HAVE to but I did. I filled up my watering can that says it holds 1.5 gallons (but it seems like more) and watered the two tens at least a half gallon and focused the rest on the 10th planet in the 30 and the other one up front that gets lighter than the rest. I was fully planning on watering EVERYTHING this morning but I could feel moisture in the soil and they had weight. I'm pretty sure I made the right decision. Especially with humidity so high. Either way I'll check tonight. EDIT: WENT TO THE GROW AT APPROX 2:30PM. I HAD BO IDEA HOW HOT IT WAD OUTSIDE. IT WAS 87° BUT THE HUMIDITY IS DAMN NEAR 100%! I HAD WATERED SHIT A KOT LATELY AMD WANTED TO WAIT UNTIL THE MORNING. THE TWO 10'S (WITH GIANT PLANTS THAT IM NOT SURE CAN FINISH IN TENS) WERE DRY AND LIGHT. A COUPLE SPECIFIC PLANTS WETE A "LITTLE" LIGHTER THAN THE REST. I MIXED UP THE WATERING CAN WHICHVIS 2.5 AND ANOTHER GALLON. I USED THE WATERING CAN ON THE PLANTS IN THE FRONT. THE CHEMDOG #4 WAS SIGNIFICANTLY LIGHTER THAN THE REST SO I GAVE IT MOST OF A GALLON. THE PLANTS THAT ARE STILL HEAVY ARE GOING TO HAVE TO WAIT LONGER BEFORE I WATER THEM. 6/26 This morning I came over to substantially lighter bags. I watered everything but the 50 with 5.5 gallons of water. Plants amd roots are getting heavier. My intuition told me to water that 10th planet but it was still wasn't TOTALLY dry. This happens a few times a year during hot stretches. It will be fine by the time I'm back. I've also noticed that the pink kush in the 50 (the only one that didn't use ALL new soil) is a substantially lighter green than every other plant in the garden. Boy I'm glad that heat wave is over. It's 67° at 9:30 that's much better. I'll update as I go. I'm still thinking about light depping the 10s. EDIT: HASN'T BROKE 70 YET AS OF NOONTIME. I THINK I MAY HAVE GONE A LITTLE OVERBOARD WITH THE WATER. TH8NGS LOOK ALRIGHT AMD THERE'S A GOOD BREEZE SO EVEN IF I DID THEY'LL DRY OUT QUICK. SO MUCH GROWTH SO FAST! THE MK ULTRA WITH THE BIG FAN LEAVES LOOKS A LITTLE SAGGY BIT IT WILL COME OUT OF IT. THE 10TH PLANET THAT WAS DROOPING LOOKS A LITTLE BETTER. IT DID REVEG AND IS STEAIGHTENING OUT TROM THAT. I DEFOLIATED SOME SPOTS TJAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA. BUT THERE WERE BURNS AND DISTORTED LEAVES FROM BEFORE SO ITS HARD TO TELL. JUST A COUPLE LEAVES WITH THAT DOT. TIME WILL TELL. ITS PAST TIME TO GET MY IPM GOING ANYWAY. DURING ONE OF THESE COOLER DAYS IM GOING TO HAVE TO PREEMPTIVELY TREAT MY PLANTS. EITHER BT, CAPTAIN JACK OR PLANT DOCTOR IS WHAT I HAVE ON HAND AT LEAST. I HAVE CITRIC ACID AND K BICARB BUT HOPFULLY NONE OF THAT WILL BE NECESSARY. THE WIND IS FAR TO STRONG FOR A MITE POPULATION TO GET OUT OF CONTROL WHICH IS AWESOME. IM MAINLY WORRIED ABOUT THE PATHOGENS. 6/27 Rained last night but I don't think very much. Its much cooler. Went from 100 to 70 in a day. Plants did good to take those fluctuations. They are still SLIGHTLY overwatered with the mk ultra with the big fan leaves being the MOST over watered. There's a breeze today though and it's sunny blue skies. I think showers ate possible tomorrow at 4a.m. and it says showers throughout tomorrow to which sucks. I was hoping to get a couple nice days to dry the plants out. The 10s are light again but the soil is still moist. It's hard when it's so hot to water the correct amount. At least it is for me. Killed a couole moths and a pillar. I noticed the first sign of pest damage so it's time to get out and start the IPM. I'm hoping for no pathogens. I'll update as I go along. EDIT: IT'S 75° AT 11:30. That mk ultra with the massive leaves still looks overwatered. One of the plants in the 10s looks the same but that one is light but the soil is moist. The MK ULTRA is still holding some weight and the soil is still damp. It's not the AMOUNT of water I've given them that's the problem it's the FREQUENCY that ive HAD to water that messed me up. Going from 70° to 100° overnight for several days kinda messed me up. It's improving though. I lifted it and it doesn't seem TO heavy. The soil is still slightly moist. I hope that I don't get so involved with thinking the plants are overwatered that they are actually under watered. I think I need to increase volume when watering and treat each vacant differently (which I have for the most part). I'm usually very measured and careful but it is what it is. No more water for a little while. Other than thecshowers at 4a.m. and the showers expected tomorrow. Surprisingly the small time I was away allowed the plants to show a pretty drastic improvement. EDIT #2 WENT BACK DOWN AT FOUR TO CHECK THINGS OUT. THE MK ULTRA I WAS WORRIED ABOUT IS DOING MUCH BETTER. EVERYTHING (SANS ONE IN 10) IS LOOKING MUCH BETTER. I DUG DOWN AND CAN TELL THERES MOISTURE IN THAT SOIL IN THE TEN THATS A LITTLE DROOPY. THATS WHY ID RATHER UNDER WATER TGAN OVER WATER. UNDERWATER AND YOU JUST GIVE THEM A DRINK AND THEY PIP RIGHT BACK. WE ARE SUPPOSED TO GET SHOWERS TOMORROW EARLY MORNING. HOPFULLY NOT MUCH. MY INTUITION TOLD ME TO HOLD OFF ON WATERING THAT PLANT IN THE TEN. THE OTJER IS THE SAME WEIGHT AND LOOKS GREAT. WASNT PLANNING ON GOING DOWN SO UNFORTUNATELY I DIDNT HAVE MY PHONE ON ME. 6/28 Rained hard last nightcand showers all day. Plants don't look to bad off though. I think I wad watering to frequently with not enough volume. That AND the fact that we are having 35° temp swings. That has made it hard for me to keep the plants on any k9nd of a schedule for watering. I believed that plants were overwatered but since we've gotten all this rain some seem to have slightly improved. These are resilient strains and will probably be alright. I took a quick video. I'm REALLY CONSIDERING light depping the two tens. 6/29 It's been maineing out. Overcast and misting. We got hammered on overnight the night before and all day yesterday. I was completely wrong and would've made a fool out of myself if not for mother nature. I guess those plants were UNDERWATERED not OVERWATERED! It was hard to tell though with the 30° Temps swings. Either way I got this shit now. I've killed and seen some birds dart in and grab a few pillars. I see a little bit of pillar damage so plants MAY get a treatment of bt tonight. They're watered and healthy after all.

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