First week of Flowering!! the Scrogline pro's are filling up nicely and we hope is will develop an nice canopy with big sticky buds no changes in the nutrients yet but soon we will start adding Epic Bloom Stay safe and stay healthy Cheers, Nibameca

Die Sour-Diesel könnte am Zwittern sein ich bin mir aber nicht sicher und werde noch eine Woche abwarten. Purple-Queen geht es gut sie blüht aber die Seitentriebe werden wohl klein bleiben.

Me impresiona su forma híbrida , sus hojas están preciosas ! Y su vista desde arriba realmente parece una "X" ... A esta nena se le hará el mismo tratamiento que a mi querida lemonking ... Todo bien por el momento su espacio internodal anda de lujo ! Bella a tu espera !! . . . #lemonshiningsilverhaze #royalqueenseeds #greenwolvesfarmer

Ladies and gentlemen, we are now entering the last week of flowering and finishing her 6th month alive! I got attached to her, will be difficult saying goodbye, BUT, these juicy buds are so worth it. I've been flushing her with 3 liters of water every 2 days, and despite one cloudy day the sun appeared most of the time. I hope she gets a little fatter this last week. The smell is incredible. Strong enough to notice when you're near, but not strong enough my neighbors will get it, perfect! I assume in a tent she'd be stinking everything up with her sweet, sweet smell. I can only imagine how her kief will be 🤩 Thanks for visiting and see you next week for one final update!

Die Wurzel hat Platz bekommen & die Pflanze ist gewachsen. Große Blätter weiterhin. Bisher ein Blüte Ansatz sichtbar. Weiterhin alle 2 - 3 mal innerhalb von 7 Tagen gedüngt mit BioBizz Grow. Milliliter angepasst. Compression Sprayer wird benutzt für klares Wasser.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Another breezy week however, we had some hot weather here, temps were up to 34°c in the room for a day or so which caused a bit of tip burn. When plants are forced to transpire more in a high VPD scenario, one should reduce the EC of the water by 10-20%, this helps the plant take water easier through osmosis without taking up more nutrients than it needs, unfortunately as I spent most of last week high and didn’t notice it until the second day. Will start to post more pictures every week now they’re looking a bit more interesting 😁 EC is currently at 1.4 due to hot weather, and I’ve noticed when it hovers around 1.6, the EC drifts up to 1.7-1.8 after 3-4 days so thought it was best to cut it back a little. UVB during lights on will soon be introduced, possibly at the start of week 15. Thanks for stopping by!

BREED: 1 x Royal Moby (8 weeks) 1 x Critical (8 weeks) 1 x Amnesia Haze (8weeks) 1 x Green Gelato (7 weeks) ACTIONS: Cloning in 1 day Adding 4 x 28W Full Spectrum LED Bulbs Switching to 12/12 in 2 days time Bio Bloom to commence CONCERNS: Overcrowding of plants (I plan to flower all 4 plans in the tent at the same time) Nutrient deficiency (Only using Bio-Bloom onwards) Insufficient light INDOOR KIT: 0.8 x 0.8 x 1.8 indoor grow tent 2 x desk fan 1 x boost exhaust fan 4 x 20L fabric pots Method 7 glasses 16L Garden Master Backpack High Pressure Sprayer Earth Dance Growers Gold Soil (https://gthydro.co.za/products/826-earth-dance-growers-gold-organic.html) Nova LED 180W (https://gthydro.co.za/products/417-nova-led-s4-180w.html?search_query=LED&results=102 x desk fans)

***** Week 11 growth - February 13 to 19, 2021 - Week 2 Flower ***** This girl is looking very nice but she is the shortest of the bunch. She has not growing out as wide and tall as the other girls in the tent but that could have changed with an extra week of Veg. 8 weeks from seed was quite quick to throw a girl into flower so it’s all good.....just noting it👍😃 2nd SCROG layer in now....finally😞 Lots of work to do in cleaning up the lower leaves next week. Will do larger leaf strip and lolipoping when they start focusing more on bud development. Light is at 24” only pulling 310 watt, and the meter at the tops of the girls is roughly 28,500LUX. It is feeling like it’s a little strong for them but it’s close......the curling leaves is slowly increasing on the tops. By the end of the week we are at 400watts and reading 38,500LUX, this should be roughly 980 umol/s/m2.......over 900 and less than 1,000.......should be good for going into week 3. Nutrients switched over to flower schedule and following week 2.....but so-called back a couple of items. Adding some other items beyond IPP line so backing off some of the ppm to compensate. Still only one “feeding” per week. Early flower so hitting the microbes a little harder this week and next and then slowly start backing off. I like Remo’s Natures Candy for sweetener because it has humic, sweetener and old school molasses, amongst other things to feed the microbes as they are in coco. Bud Fusion being used now for pk boost.........no more “red kool-aid”😂 Still adding Rezin from Green Planet becuase it seems to boost my trichome quantity.....Terpinator likely this week as well......increase some of the sulfer to increase aromas. Little more detail....... Feb 13/21 - Day 8 - 3.5L watering with CalMag @ 1ml, Nature’s Candy @ 1ml, Resin @ 1.5ml Feb 14/21 - Day 9 - 2nd SCROG added today.....finally. Plucked a bunch more leaves in the process - watering with microbes only today. Recharge has some molasses in it so just adding that. - 4L water for these girls with Recharge @ 1/2 tsp/gal - 320ppm and 6.0pH Feb 15/21 - Day 10 - today is big feed day....its been 7 days. - 3L each girl with all the IPP line as listed plus silica @ 1ml, Nature’s Candy @ 1ml. (Bud Fusion was 0.2gr/L) - 1325ppm and 6.0pH - Girls gave run off at 3L today so didn’t push past that. Feb 16/21 - Day 11 - some feed left from yesterday so added 6L of plain water to dilute it and watered into the girls tonight. - 3L full feed of nutrients for each girl - 800ppm and 6.1pH Feb 17/21 - Day 12 - 3L each girl with Terpinator and CalMag @ 2ml, Nature’s Candy @ 1ml, Recharge @ 1/2 tsp/gal - 775ppm and 6.1pH - increased light power to 350 watts. Now at 32,500LUX.......take it slow over the next week and keep creeping up. Leaves have a bit of a taco shape coming out and looking fairly serrated at the edges.....pushing the light intensity on the tops👍 - leaf colour on the girls is very good......tips are not burnt either. Feb 18/21 - Day 13 -3L each girl of plain water today - added beneficial bacteria and enzymes @ 1.5ml - 330ppm and 5.9pH - was looking for a little lower pH as I have not been checking runoff. - have to do a leaf strip this weekend......start of week 3. - light power increased again, 400 watts now. Feb 19/21 - Day 14 - day out day.......they have not had one in a bit. - humidity was higher today as door to grow room closed today to assist clones with more humidity. So that takes us through two weeks of flower now. Not knowing this strain enough yet, I suspect feeding will stop at the end of week 6. That leaves four more weeks. I will treat the next two weeks like mid flower for nutes, and the following two weeks as late flower. Feed supplements accordingly. She is a nice plant and looking forward to seeing how her buds form. Looking good ETS!

We’re in the midst of the bulking phase now, with a few buds stacking up nicely. Unfortunately, the plant on the left has sparser bud distribution. Compared to other auto genetics, these three plants also show a broad variety in growth structure and phenological traits. Also, overall plant health isn’t entirely satisfying, with high temperatures being the Main cause. The leaves are showing several stress-related issues like mild tip burn, nitrogen deficiency, and some cal-mag problems. But hey—we’re here to grow buds, not leaves! 😄 That said, the fade is to be expected as the plants start to cannibalize themselves for nutrients. The stretch is also in its final phase, so we’re likely 3 to 4 weeks away from harvest. --- Quick rundown on everything else: Watering: 1500ml every third day Fertilizer: According to the BioBizz schedule Light intensity: ~1000 PPFD VPD: ~1.62 kPa Temperature: ~28°C Relative humidity: ~55%

80 dias y han empezado a florecer la mas avanzada es la 1051 que es la variedad con mas predominancia indica. He empezado la primera semana de floracion con la tabla de elicitación y nutrición de terranabis, subiendole 0.2 ml de Terrateina y terra vigor , vamos a ver como responden

definitely fed it too soon. i thought 1ml bloom wouldnt hurt but its okay shes still trucking along great ! getting thicker everyday and the smell is amazing

Que pasa familia, vamos con la sexta semana de floración de estas Orange Sherbet Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Agradezco a Agrobeta todos los kits obtenidos de ellos 🙏. Vamos al lío, El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 22/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%, añadimos ya varios productos de la gama de Agrobeta. Las próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Hello friends! day 60! following your advice I applied the cropping in order to bring the tops back into the light and I wanted to try adding ADV nutes to integrate a little! apart from this extreme elongation everything seems to be going the right way! thank you very much for stopping by, leave a like and some advice! happy day and great growth 🌱💚

Semana del 26 de abril al 2 de mayo Semana de mucha lluvia así que está costando mantener baja la humedad del indoor, ya que en el ambiente ya está alta. Pensé que algunas plantitas se pondrían más moradas o rojizas pero que va, están con un toquecito de color y nada más. Última semana usando el AK47 (1 ml por litro) Volvieron los bichos, así que hoy 1 de mayo volví a aplicar el Tec Fort. Además tuve un accidente. Se me cayó el TGL60 cuando lo estaba subiendo para fumigar. Lo bueno es que el foco no dio contra el suelo, pero cayó sobre la malla y adiós a una ramita de cogollos. No era mucho pero igual dolio. La corté y la puse a secar, no tendrá mucho thc ahora pero entre que se pierda y fumarla igual, pues me la fumo.

Week 6 for Black Lebanon by SSSC, Like i mentioned on the previous Sunday update, she was transplanted a day after the post. I was planning on not giving water for the first week to let the roots do some growing.... the rain gods had a different plan 😂 Its been storming rain ever since day after transplant now 5 days i think 😂😂 So that didn't go to plan but hoping no rain next week fingers crossed. I also think i topped her again some point last week. Cant wait for her roots to get moving in the new home.