Buenas farmers!! Después de pasarnos tres dias con sólo agua volveremos con la mitad de nutrientes durante los próximos dos riegos, ya empezamos a prepar nuestras plantas para la fase final ! Cada cogollo huele diferente 👌🏻Espero que os guste buenos humos family!💚

This has been a dream to grow the only reason I marked it as neutral and not easy because of it being such a flowery bub.So you just had to keep an eye on the humidity apart from that she stood up to everything even when I was starving her from Calmag 😂🤷 Can't wait to be back with the smoke report

Quick update on Fractal #2! Defoliated and bent some leaves to prevent moisture buildup. Fed with all three nutrients from the booster pack. Not expecting huge buds - most of this harvest will go towards bubble hash production, and she’s looking perfect for that purpose! Thanks to everyone for checking in! 🙏 Appreciate you taking a look!

This was their last week! Harvested on Day 60. Smells are incredible, tricomes are carpeted and have a good mix of amber and cloudy. Love the wireless microscope I got of Amazon ❤️ i gave the girls their last watering on day 55 , and I watered till I had about 15% runoff. I like to whole plant hang dry my plants in my tent, hopefully, aiming for about 60 degrees and 60% humidity for about 10-14 days. Typically the more there is, the longer it takes. i cant wait! 🤤

Second week of flower, time to stretch! Im very happy with the outcome so far, it is without worry that some tops are in shadow. Enough tops to go around, have to wait until after stretch to lollipop! The lady all the way in the back, to the left, has either stunned growth or just slower than the other to go into stretch. However i will just play the waiting game, as i see no symptoms for a problem atm. Last watering was 15/10 👽👉17/10 VPD is set to 1.2, but because of the function of my dehumidifier, it range from 1.1-1.3. 👽👉18/10 Waterday* They are real thirsty First signs of pistils have shown! I upped my nutes from EC1.36 to EC1.66 BioHeaven 2ML/L BioGrow 1ml/L > 1.5 BioBloom 0.5ml/L >1.5 TopMax 0.5ml/L> 1 Calmag 0.3ml/L > 0.4 👽👉19/10 The ladies love it! Stretching and praying hands! 👽👉20/10 Impressed with the stretching. Not much to report, they just feeling the vibe. 👽👉21/10 Changed the lamp hanging system, to gain some more distance from light to canopy. 👽👉22/10 Thirsty ladies, but since i did not have time to water, i gave them 200ml each to survive another 24hours without feed. 👽👉23/10 Waterday* I upped my nutes from EC1.66 to EC1.77 added 1ML/L Rootjuice to this feed Bioheaven 2ML/L BioGrow 1.5 ML/L > 2 BioBloom 1.5ML/L TopMax 1ML/L Calmag 0.4ML/L Rootjuice 1ML/L

I'm disappointed with myself but the genetics are really excellent

Not actually much to report here! Some slight bleaching to the main colas and clearly the leaves are being sucked dry of thier nutrients despite my feeding. Clear indication of her finishing up now, slowly the frost is appearing and the stank Fast Buds warns us all about is very much apparent! 😁 a beautiful smell to be welcomed to when ever I’m inspecting! I’ll give her water after her final feed today of nutrients, next week should be harvest week looking at the trichomes current maturity and pace of development. See you all next week with some much anticipated pics and smells! ✌️👊👍 stay safe and stay growing guys and gals! Much love as always 🙌🙂

Welcome to Flower Week 7 and harvest of Sensi Seeds Purple Berry Muffinz I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my Sensi Seeds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Photo Strain Purple Berry Muffinz: Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Sensi Seeds • 💧Strain Info : 26% • ⏳ Flowering Time: 6-7weeks

Day 58 - Adding Big Bud Coco to the nute mix, seems that it's doing its job 😁 (Yes, I need a bigger closet 😅) Keep on growing 🙏😋 Day 63 - Haf some problems with my EC pen the last days, it wasn't clean so I overfeed a little bit but I noticed almost immediately so I've cleaned it and re-done the nute solution. Just a few tips of Gelato's leaves were burnt, nothing to worry about. I think 4 weeks from now and the Purple Lemonade will be ready for harvest, so other 5 days of Big Bud and then I'll switch to Overdrive for the final boost before ripen and flush 🙏

First week off flowering

Had some humidity issues been watering with spring water until I get something to filter the tap water Jan.8th amnesia haze 1 got bit taller so I did some more LST

Journal de Culture : Frost 1 (Semaine 5) ​Génétique : Frostbanger (F2 Perso) | Système : Autopot 20L ​📣 Remerciements ​Un immense merci à toutes les personnes qui suivent ce journal depuis le début ! Un merci tout particulier à @MIA_BIOTABS et à Mrs_Larimar pour leurs précieux conseils qui m'aident à mener cette session au mieux. Merci à tous pour votre soutien constant ! ​🛠️ Configuration Technique ​Éclairage : Lumatek ATS 300W Pro (réglé à 75%) ​Distance lampe/canopée : 55 cm ​Climat : Jour : 25°C / Nuit : 21°C ​Humidité (HR) : 50% ​Tente : 1m80 de hauteur ​📅 Évolution & Floraison : La phase sérieuse commence ! ​État de la plante : jour +35 La structure est maintenant bien établie. La phase de stretch semble se stabiliser, laissant place au développement des sites de floraison. ​Hauteur actuelle : 68 cm (+22 cm) ​Stade : Floraison confirmée. Les pompons commencent à se former et la plante change d'allure pour se concentrer sur la production. ​Travail sur la plante : ​Entretien : Je n'ai pas touché à la plante depuis une semaine. Après le travail d'aération et de palissage précédent, j'ai choisi de la laisser tranquille pour ne pas la stresser lors de son passage en floraison. Elle s'épanouit d'elle-même. ​Structure : Le palissage à la ficelle fait toujours son office, maintenant une canopée ouverte où l'air circule parfaitement. ​Gestion du système Autopot : ​Nutrition : Fidèle à la méthode Biotabs, la plante n'a reçu que de l'eau claire via le système Autopot. Sa couleur vert foncé et sa vigueur prouvent que le substrat est parfaitement équilibré pour cette phase de transition. ​Résumé : On arrive à un moment charnière. Avec 68 cm de hauteur, elle occupe l'espace de manière idéale. Les fleurs commencent à se dessiner nettement sur chaque sommet dégagé lors du dernier LST. La plante est sereine, le cultivateur aussi ! ​À bientôt pour la suite de la floraison !

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oct 5. water ph'ed at 6.3 No nutrients at this point. Maybe next week.

Topped once, turned off IR @ nights, slowed vertical growth back down, and took off both of the very lowest internodes on each plant. Eisenia fetida Stratiolaelaps scimitus Armadillidium vulgare Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is far superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison to synthetic delivery, which causes plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing, regenerative cultivation. ATP is king above all else when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" (active) nutrient uptake. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. If that makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic methods because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversions, and energy is just numbers. Because the laws of nature are symmetrical over time (the universe works the same way today as it did yesterday), there is a single, fundamental mathematical quantity that remains constant. We call this quantity energy. You cannot put "energy" under a microscope. You observe matter and forces (like heat, motion, or light), but energy is just a scalar number calculated to help predict how these things will change and interact. When an object falls, or when a battery powers your phone, matter shifts and changes form. Through it all, the universe ensures the "total score" of the numbers remains exactly the same. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. Corporate interest sells you the other 3-5% NPK & all the rest in RATIOS! Why not throw the 3-5% in a pot, and focus your energy on the other 95-97%? Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

If you've followed me for a while you will know how proud I am of my first photo grow. Now this strain was gifted to me and I'm super happy with them. They've been strong, had to move them twice in 24 hours and still seemed happy. Would of really liked to keep a cut of pheno 3 as that looks a good yielder and smells lovely. I've not weighed it as its pointless wet and untrimmed. Anything over 5-6oz I'll be happy 🤷‍♂️🏼🤣 will be back to update in 10 days 🤞🏻✌️🏻

8/21, 8/22 TOASTED TOFFY WAS TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR ON THE 22nd. It's been a few days of rainy dreary weather. This morning I went over and did some MORE defoliation on the toasted toffy trying to get all infected leaves off. I then used the rest of the k bicarb on the gmo in the middle. I haven't seen hardly any pm. So that seems to be working. However I don't want septoria to spread through my garden either. Hopfully the plant doctor will take care of the problem. If not I'll get something different. I can make a diy Dr. Zymes or I could just go to the store and buy something specific like trichodermia. The weather has been a fungus nirvana. The conditions couldn't have been anymore perfect for mold development. I'm super impressed with the k bicarb treating the pm. I took tons of pictures yesterday but I've been sick and couldn't upload them. I still need to sanitize and put my supports up. I'll keep this updated with what I'm doing. UPDATE: AFTER UNCKES FUNERAL I WATERED THE SHERB PIE THAT I DIDNT LAST TIME AND THEN I FED. I DIDNT FEED THE TOASTED TOFFY DUE TO IT BEING TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR. EVERYTHING GOT A QRT THE 50GAL GOT MORE. TWO GALLONS TOTAL USED. I NOTÌCED SOME SLIGHT PM ON THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE. IT WOULD BE TIME TO TREAT AGAIN ANYWAY. I PLAN ON WATERING TOMORROW AND TREATING THIS PLANT AGAIN. IM HESITANT TO UsE PLANT DOCTOR (do to feeding tonight) RIGHT OFF SO ILL PROBABLY USE YHE K BICARD. IT WORKS GOOD. I SHOULDNT HAVE FED THAT PLANT SO I COULD APPLY THE PLANT DOCTOR INSTEAD. THAT SEEMS TO BE WORKING REALLY WELL. LAST TIME I USED IT WAS ON FUSARIUM AND THATS JUST A LOSING BATTLE. DID A QIICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 8/23 I HAD A CRISIS SITUATION AND I FUCKED UP THE DIARY. I THINK I JUST DIDN'T RECORD WHAT I DID ON THIS DAY. 8/24 I checked the bags and they were heavy. I watered the sherb pie today as it missed the last watering. Everything but the toasted toffy got fed yesterday. I noticed some slight pm on the middle GMO that I've been treating with k bicarb. Just a couple leaves. Looks like a couple spots I missed. I was going to apply it again but I dodnt have time. I'll be back over soon and I'll treat it and do the defoliation needed. Maybe I'll even sanitize and get support up. Since I fed yesterday I don't want to use the plant doctor for a few more days. I'm thinking of treating everything with it. I need to read and see when the next application for toasted toffy is due. Things are really starting to flower. Once I get the work done I may add beastie bloom to my nute line up. I think I'll do another k-bicarb app on the plant with pm. It's doing a good job. Since the l bicarb I don't see any pm. I should've held off feeding it so I could've used plant doctor. I'm monitoring toasted toffy and if it keeps working good I'll treat everything preventatively. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11:30 BECAUSE IT HAD CLIMBED INTO THE UPPER 80'S. AS I SUSPECTED THE PLANTS NEEDED WATER. THEY COULDVE WAITED UNTIL TONIGHT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I HAvE TO DO THINGS WHEN IM ABLE TOO. EVERYTHING GOT A GALLON EXCEPT THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE IN THE 30, THAT GOT 1.5. SHERB PIE GOT IT YESTERDAY AND ISNT FLOWERING AS VIGEROUS SO IT USES LESS WATER. BEFORE WATERING I WENT THROUGH THE ENTIRE GARDEN AND DEFOLIATED WHAT NEEDED TO BE DEFOLIATED. I HAVE A FEW SMALL LIMBS I SHOULD PRUNE BUT THAT STUFF MAKES GOOD HASH MATERIAL AND ACTUALLY ADDS UP. I NOTICED A LITTLE BIT OF PM ON THE GMO I TREATED. Just a couple spots on a couple leaves and I removed them. I MIXED UP K BICARB AND ILL APPLY IN THE MORNING. I WANTED TO USE PLANT DOCTOR BUT SEEING THAT I FED ILL WAIT. ID LIKE TO GIVE THEM ALL PLANT DOCTOR AS A PREVENTATIVE. SUPPOSABLY IT STIMULATES AN IMMUNE RESPONSE WITHIN THE PLANT WHICH FIGHTS THE PATHOGENS THEN LEAVES POTASSIUM AND PHOSPHORUS BEHIND AFTER 4 DAYS FOR THE PLANT TO USE. I THINK ITS GETTING CLOSE TO TREATING THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN. ILL HAVE TO LOOK. I TOOK A VIDEO BUT ILL HAVE TO UPLOAD IT it. 8/25 I know the diary is fucked up. But I know I watered yesterday. Except the sherb pie. I didn't check the weight bit did a bunch of defoliation. I made another half gallon of k bicarb with a drop of dawn and sprayed all the gmos. I only saw a COUPLE spots with pm on them and I removed them. Still though I wanted to make sure it doesn't get out of control. I should've checked the weight of the sherb pie but I'm sure it's fine.. I took a video but I can't upload it yet. WENT BACK OVER AROUND TWO. IT WAS A BLISTERING HOT DAY IN THE 80'S. THE BAGS WERE DRY. THEY HAD A LITTLE WRIGHT TO THEM AND MOST SOME LEAVES WERE PRAYING. SOME WERE STARTING TO DROOP THOUGH. I WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT THE SHERB PIE I GOT THIS MORNING. I gave the gmo in the 30 1.5. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE COULDVE WAITED UNTIL MORNING BUT AT LEAST I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT EASIER THIS. MAYBE I SHOULD GIVE THE 50 MORE WATER AT A TIME. IM GETTING YELLOW LEAVES. I THINK ITS PROBABKY SENESCENCE. ITS ABOUT THE SAME TIME EVERY YEAR I START LOSING SOME LEAVES. IT SEEMS TO BE JUST THE SHERB PIE AND THE BIG ONE IN THE 50. THAT PLANT HAS QUARTER SIZE BUDS ON IT THOUGH. ITS AMAZIBG HOW MUCH THE WATER INTAKE CHANGES WHEN ITS 60 OR UPPER 50S WITH HIGH HUMIDITY TO WHEN ITS IN THE 80S ALMOST 90. I HOPE IM NOT WATERING TO OFTEN. ITS BEEN COLD AT NIGHT. IN THE 50S. THE EVENT HORIZON HAS TURNED A NICE PURPLE ON MANY LEAVES. THE GMO'S AND SHERB PIE ALSO ARE TURNING PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. I SAW WHAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA SPOTS CRAWLING UP KY EVENT HORIZON IN THE BACK. IN GOING TO TREAT IT WITH PLANT DOCTOR TOMORROW. 8/26 Rainy day. I noticed some septoria on the toasted toffy climbing a bottom branch. But it is time to reapply plant doctor. I saw a couple spots on the event horizon and I treated it today with 1/4 gallon of 2tsp per gallon plant doctor. I sprayed the leaves then I used the rest on the soil. The k bicarb is still keeping any pm at bay. I haven't seen a spot. I hope the plant doctor helps the event hotlrizon. I'm not even sure if it has it but I want to be cautious. I'm thinking of treating them all with plant doctor. I'm also going to use beastie bloom on some of the more advanced plants. I wasn't expecting it to rain but it wasn't for at least a couple hours after I sprayed. I ran another support line across the cage. I need to lst both event horizons and defoliate the sherb pie. It's weird but it seems like EVERY day I go over the flowers are bigger! I see birds darting out when I approach. Maybe that's why i haven't been finding pillars. I found ONE hairy one this week trying to escape to the soil on a string. I got him though. We'll see how it goes. If not I have other options for treatments if needed. That plant in the 10 is HUGE. I'm suprised it got that big in 10gals! Trying to upload videos but they are LONG so I don't know if they

18.08.23- 49 дней вегетации ! На данном этапе растение получает питание для вегетации и продолжает растягиваться . Хорошо реагирует на лст и масштабную дефолиацию ) Изредка делаю топпинг рандомных веток . Думаю дать ей еще 2-3 недели роста 22.08.23-очередной сеанс дефолиации и лст как всегда успешно ! Идеально ровный купол растения радует глаз 👁️ сделал flash clean из-за высокого ппм и дал менее концентрированный раствор .