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@RakonGrow
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+ data online : rakongrow.lima.zone/growme-godfeather-og-f1-auto-016.html added trichome zoom +
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Welcome to my ganja runt auto comp grow. Be sure to drop a like or comment so I can visit your grows if youd like, either way thanks for dropping by, good luck and stay safe😎 2/5/22 Popped Today VD1 for Ganja Runtz Auto 17-25% THC. Think after Its grown I'm going to send a sample to the dam to get tested. If it's nice that is. As it's a big gap and wondering where I can get her to. Am starting her on TERRA POWERS growth base nutrients and am following it's chart as guide to use and will decide on the ML/L depending on the PPM as I'm using the full 19 nutrients so the PPM will be way up there unless I break it down into equal ppm feeds when it gets bigger and give 2 1l mixes on later stage of growth and a flush in between. I'm going to try and push her to the max that stays withIn the boundaries of not stalling her with any tox, so light tip burn will be fine and is the norm when using heavy bloom boosters (SyntheticNutrients), the best growers in the world get tip burn it's just a by product of your plant taking up max nutrient and the tips are so gentle they get tip burn, but in saying that, some ppl don't like to push their plants, nice a less harsher taste. 100% natural/normal folks and actually looked for as if you aren't seeing this your plant actually has more feed it can take, meaning you aren't maxing out her 3-5wk stretch window in flowering, (personally in think, a slight push is better than a light pull back, when dealing with autos you HAVE TO MAX YOUR VEG TIME. I'll hopefully keep tip burn away until we get into flower and then tip burn is an after thought, and a welcome sign, for me it is. Now on the other hand, if I start seeing 'the claw' or/And very dark green/shiny leafs we got a normal tox that is an often occurrence in growth phase, nitrogen toxicity. (YOU WANT TO PULL BACK ON ANYTHING nitrogen based by a lot) Let's try stay away from that, "the claw, N tox",. Shes on a light feed. EC is 1.01 = 502ppm. PH is still a stable 6. Absolutely great products guys. I mixed a solution 3 days ago. Still holding the same PH/EC. Tip to higher RH. I've wrapped wet squeezed bath towel around my pots as it dries it raises RH, cups of water do not work with led lights. Will give pics and updates on growth and nutrient changes if any. But it'll just be straight love/care and gentle handling, (if any, some times I touch the tips with the corners of tissue if I splash nutrients on the top), other than that it shouldn't be touched unless it's bent and needs did an up. 3/5/22 Doing really well I decided to give the soil a once or feed of 2ml/L of biobizz calmag. It won't hurt in the least but will counter any possible calmag def and help overall with nutrient uptake. 6/5/22 So, it's begun. I've created a negative pressure environment, 1st time, let's see if it makes an impact. On wk 3 onwards I'll be running the intake extraction for 5mins every 30mins and I'll have 2 co2 bags up. If the RH becomes a problem or temp I'll put the extraction/intake back on 100% of the time. The extraction fan/intake is set at a ratio of 2 to 1. (100% extraction 50% intake) making a negative pressure environment, best way to show you have done this, the walls in your tent should bow in lightly. RH has climed to 77%. I'm going to pull it back down to 73%. And try keep it in a lower temp range. Thanks for reading. gottagrowsometime
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#12 is way behind the others but she is looking very healthy, the buds are absolutely caked with trichs!!! 08 is still my favorite, I'm curious what strain it is!!! not a whole lot to report back on now, its been smooth sailing and the little ph mishap has been the only issue this crop
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SATURDAY 8/11: It's late Friday night..early Saturday morning..might as well start week 8! All systems are 'GO', and it's looking like I'm about 10-14 days away from starting the flush on WW#1 and maybe EM#1. I'm salivating 😍 I just gotta get these temperatures down a bit more.. SUNDAY 8/12: Yesterday I ordered a couple of 15.0 UVB 26w CFL bulbs to suspend over the girls that are the closest to finished..try to get them to ooze some more THC for me. Today I started germinating 7 more White White Autos from CKS and 4 more Candy Cane Autos from CKS. They will also be planted in 5gal fabric pots. They will be grown in the veg tent and moved into the main tent as space becomes available. The current crop will be harvested in waves, so I'll just employ stools for the new arrivals until everybody's been harvested from the current crop and I can lower the light again. MONDAY: I'm really starting to see the effects of the heat stress from this past week. So many dead or dying leaves. Temperatures are staying below 90 at the canopy and closer to 80 at the floor during the day..varying between 83 and 87 for most of the day and climbing to about 89 by sunset. It drops to 78-80 for 5 hours of nighttime. That's a shitload better than the mid to high 90's of last week, but the damage, I'm afraid, has been done.😢 EM#1 and WW#1 aren't gonna have enough vegetation left to do much else and I want to trim away the necrotic shit before it reaches the sugary stuff. There might be enough lower leaves left alive that I can just harvest the main colas and let the lower regions be for another week of swelling and flushing, but if not, they will get one more dose of tiger bloom and cha ching in 2 days, then two days later I will flush them really well and trim off all the dead shit. Let them dry for another day or two and flush them one more time really well and put them in the dark for a day before harvesting. EM#2 still has a good bit of green in her big fan leaves and will probably perk up and show me some more bud development.🙏 EM#3 hates anything above 85 degrees, so I'll probably never make her happy..😟 WW#2 and EM#4 don't seem to have been bothered by the heat near as much.👍 CC#1 and CC#2 don't like the heat at all..but they are killer dwarves and will pull through just fine.👌 I mixed up 7 gallons of ph'd water with calmag, bud candy, big bloom (no nitrogen), and a very heavy dose of boomerang and douched everybody really well. TUESDAY: The crispy girls got a big haircut today. I cut away most of the necrotic stuff on EM#1, EM#2, and WW#1. Buds should stay pretty for another few days...and wow are they pretty! The 3 plants still have enough foliage that I've decided to let them bask under the UVB lights for a day or two between flushes...see if I can't get them to ooze a little more of the good stuff. I moved them into the areas in the garden with less PAR..mainly 660nm reds and the UVBs. I also raised the lights about 2 inches. Pretty sure that EM#4 and WW#2 are within a week of finishing as well. So far, I have 3 new WW and 2 new CC sprouts planted. One WW has emerged thus far. She shall be called "WW#3" unless she earns a nickname. New photos and video clips were taken today. WEDNESDAY: I had a 100% germination success rate with the 7 new WW's and 4 new CC's! They all got planted today, but I ran out of soil (still waiting on Amazon shipment) so I had to plant several of them in smaller pots and will have to transplant them to 5 gal pots when the Happy Frog and Coco Loco arrives. They are in the veg tent for now, but it looks like I'll have plenty of room for them all in the big tent within a week or two. WW#1 and EM#1 got flushed with 6 gallons of ph'd spring water today and will have another day/night to bask in the UVB and deep red lights, then I'll put them in the dark for another day before lovingly hacking them to bits. 😜 EM#2 isn't quite ready yet..various up-close looks at her 14" cola told me that she still has time..probably only about 20-30% cloudy trichromes now, so more Cha Ching for her tomorrow! EM#4 is in a hurry to finish..betting tomorrow will be her last nutrient dose. EM#3 is a slow-poke..maybe two more weeks or more to fully fatten her up. CC#1 is gonna be a quick one for sure..maybe another week or 10 days at most. CC#2 might be 2 more weeks. THURSDAY: Mixed up a 2 gallon batch of early flowering nutes for the CC's and Bush Bitch, 2.5 gallons of late flowering nutes for WW#2, EM#4.. and I decided that EM#2 just isn't ready yet, so she got late flowering nutes as well. The pots on WW#1 and EM#1 were still very heavy, so they were allowed to soak up the reds and UV's for another day to hopefully dry out a little more. FRIDAY: WW#1 and EM#1 are still hoping for a reprieve from the Governor, but it's not looking good for them...their sentences are set to be carried out at dawn. Last night they were stripped down and taken into lights-out solitary confinement to await their execution. They were given no last meal and when asked if they had any final requests, they asked only that they be cremated in a series of small fires spanning a couple of months. 😏
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@BudXs
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Well, it looks as if one of the 3 plants is a male. I live in denial for one more day and then I toss it. Not sure which plant it is, as I painted over the strain names when I painted the cups grey. Smooth. So I will find out soon. Otherwise, good weather and some good growth. Roots are balled up at the bottom of the dutch bucket reservoir, Im sure, because I let the drip go dry for a day or two and the plants were droopin (coco)
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Fast Buds 420 Gorilla Cookies 4/30 started paper towel method 5/4 sprout formed 5/5 planted. Used seedling soil, embedded in Build A Soil. Humidity dome used.
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@Growin_it
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This is my first Amnesia Auto. It has been an easy grow so far. Looking forward to the buds fattening up, which almost goes without saying. But, interested to see how loose or tight they will be.
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Eccoci qui. Finalmente iniziamo a vedere i frutti del nostro lavoro, sono veramente contento e non vedo l'ora di portare a termine questo cultivo. Abbiamo riempito gli spazi della rete. GRAZIE A TUTTI
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Still flushing this week, I plan on chopping this Friday! As always, the girls on GrowWithJane: 1) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-yellow-342ve 2) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-green-ubh4l 3) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-blue-0wj77 4) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-white-c6ovz 5) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-pink-50csd
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Shefman93
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Transplanted from 15 gallons to 25 gallons at the start of the week. Changed amendment ratio to 50/50 of 444 & 284 as this is the last week of veg. Adjusted lst to have the canopy level and I will take clones before the flip to flower.
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Training and defoliation, plus i decided to transplant two bench plants that were chillin in 500ml cups incase smth goes wrong with the rest but nothing went wrong ofc. So i transplanted them into 3 galons and supercropped so at least i get somewhat even tops. Plan is to veg them 7-10 days more and we go into flowering :)
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Die unteren Triebe kommen noch ein wenig hoch. Ich hoffe das die Lady wenigstens 20g wirft.
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little fella came along well, given the odds were stacked against it.
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@GROJO
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Whats up BUD! did some mild trimming and training on lower branches and fan leafs. These ladies have stretched more then 6 inches this week and the bud sites are coming alive
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@Naujas
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84 dienos!!!! Mergaitė atrodo gražiai ir laiminga:) O jei ji laiminga, tai ir aš laiminga:) Taigi, kol kas viskas klostosi gerai, jau jaučiu ateinantį kvapą, tai puiku:) Ji bus tikrai šaunu:).
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Week 7 Transplanted ivory from 1 gallon pot to 7 gallon felt bag on day 1. Tied her down again on day 3. Was going to top again but decided to wait till next week. Give her some time to recover. And get some roots spread out in the new soil.