Planta fácil de cultivar, de estatura media y producción importante de tricomas. Sus fragancias son dulces parecidas a la panela, canela, especias y un fondo un poco kush con notas a crema. Flores hermosas macizos, compactas y totalmente cubiertas de fragante resina, las tonalidades son hermosas, al moler se despliegan todos los aromas y ese tono violeta en el interior de las flores. Gracias a fastbuds una vez más por su confianza y a toda la gente que sigue el contenido. Buenos humos!

Que pasa familia, ya estamos aquí para actualizar la 3 semana de floración y es que la vaina se pone interesante, están cogiendo unos tonos. No os e comentado creo pero hasta ahora hay 2 armarios, uno con 100w y otro con 150w en el de 100w hay 4 red cookies gelato en 7L.y en el de 150w hay 5 ejemplares de red cookies gelato en 15L de maceta. El cual en donde practique el crooping fue en el de 150w , que veréis todos los céntrales partidos . Hasta ahora alimentado total con bases de advanced nutrients más big bud y bud candy. E tenido algún problemita en la sala con las humedades que pronto estará solucionado aunque no fue mucho hay que decirlo todo. ( máximas en interior de 70 % en pico alto…) eso está mal así que la solución es un deshumidificador potente y a seguir. Hasta aquí todo espero que disfrutéis con los diarios y buenos humos 💨💨💨

Ciao ragazzi e bentornati qui con me e il diario della colazione! 🥐🥛☕ Ultima settima di vegetativa questa, domani porterò il programma a 12/12. Non vedo l ora di vedere la stanza riempirsi di buds.😋 Ho lasciato riposare loro per una settimana intera dallo stress che potevano aver risentito. Poi nel giorno 35 ho eseguito ancora l allenamento per riempire, più o meno, tutta la superficie del vaso.💪 Mentre le piegavo ho eseguito anche una massiccia defogliazione eliminando foglie e germogli inutili.🤙 Ho bagnato loro nel giorno 32 e 35 con 1 litro soltanto di acqua, dato che il clima è molto umido questa settimana e ha influenzato i valori nella stanza, alzandoli intorno al 70/75%👍 Nel complesso molto bene, sono le ragazze più belle nella stanza e mi sono innamorato della loro struttura solida e veloce😍 Grazie a tutti per aver guardato e restate sintonizzati per nuovi aggiornamenti golosi🙏 Buona settimana e felice crescita🌱🌱🌱

Week Nutrients 10/04/2025 - 19H - 30G FLOR DE PEDRA + 200G ADUBO TERRO + 2ML/L LMX + 2ML/L BABOSA 16/04/2025 - 8h - MELAÇO + GORRILA 1ML/L PPFD avg 650 Avg temp 24ºC Avg RH - 60% I traveled for a few days and everything went well in the grow. 🙏

Final

At the beginning of week 2 the plants have grown fine, but also developed some yellow leaf-tips, which I assume is from the amount of light they receive. Therefore I decide to hang the both LED-fixtures higher. The LUMATEK ZEUS PRO 600W is now at 75 cm distance and the two SANlight Q6W-Gen.2 are at 90 cm distance from the top of the clones of CANNALOPE HAZE from DNA-GENETICS. The humidity inside the HOMEBOX-tent is kept permanently at 60% during veg. The grow-controller GROWBASE PRO from GROWCONTROL does a GREAT job in keeping a constant environment inside my growtent. As a precaution I put up some yellow sticky traps against fungus-gnats and also hang sachets with predatory mites from KOPPERT (=Thripex PLUS) on every plant. This will prevent spider-mites and thrips to invest my tent, since the predatory mites will eat them right away. I LOVE BIOLOGICAL TREATMENTS and decide on it every time instead of using chemicals, because I grow my own medicine here and dont want ANY CHEMICALS on my cannabis! 👍😎 At the end of week two I slightly increase the light intensity again, by adjusting the dimmers of my LEDs. The Lumatek is now set to 50% dimm-level and the SANlights are running at 60%. Until now there is not much difference to see between the two sides, all plants are healthy and doing well.

Waiting on my new Opulent Systems 3x3 to come in so I can get these two out of the 4x4.

Die Blätter zeigen kleinere Probleme, aber ansonsten hat sie das umtopfen gut überstanden! Die Triebe sind oben sehr lila. Spraymix alle 2 Tage.

Hi growers! My kushes just loooks awsome to me.The end is cooming,and I stated flushing them.They both producing nice dense buds,hard as a rock.They on FD 47,and can't wait to smoke . Stay green!🌱

The summer is here. Black cream showing some colors but not what i imagine. But with out a dought some of the best buds i Have seen. Shes know senescence. Just let the lower buds get some power in 2 more weeks shes done. Im liking a lot the way CoshKush is going Very promissing branchs and a inner purple color to the picilis. Lets se as she fatns. Weeding Cake its looking like shes reduced grow speed. Like the tick piscilis now starting to go orange Bomberry looked so promessing in vege and now not so much. Late as allways.... Shes late but very hairy.....Promessing again :D Chear BrotherHood

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Start of Week 10.

Woche 8 und weiterhin sieht’s gut aus ein bisschen entlauben sonst nur alle 2 Tage gießen Die Gorilla Zkittelz struggelt weiterhin bildet aber unten wieder neue grüne Blätter

First days we recover from to much water and food.... 3 day of no water , got to give them some ph neutraal water Day 4 of week 4 gave them 0,5 liter of water incl some terra

8/22 - There has been some explosive growth among my 4 purple Microdots. They are growing by leaps and bounds each day, 8/23 - So far everything is going smoothly. Just watering each day w/ RO water and organic black strap molasses. 8/24 - Brewing up some compost tea. This will be there first! As they start to get a little bigger I've made a prediction for sex. I think A238 & A239 are male and A240 & A241 are female. We'll see! 8/25- Fed the ladies with the compost tea and used it as a foliar spray as well. They responded very well and continue to have crazy, rapid, growth. 8/27 - They have gotten so big and bushy. I'm going to start a little LST on them today! 8/30 - They are starting to show sex! Still can't tell whether it's male or female...but it should be any day now!

This Strain is really nice to grow 😍👍

TRIPPLE G by ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS Week # 17 overall Week #16 Veg No issues this week she looking good looks like she is about to start to flower!! Stay Growing!! Royal Queen Seeds TRIPLE G