Ajoooooo das ist bzw war mal ne lange check Liste..Gefällt mir definitiv:) Die WW muss noch trocken habe sie Komplett Manikürt da vielen 30g Zucker Blätter nass ab und zu Butter verarbeitet Schätze werden so 75g trocken.

Good morning to all growers!! This has been another rewarding week for my eyes but the real satisfaction has yet to begin especially for my nome ;D! The plants are getting very large, the one with the bucket pot has responded very well, the one with the cardboard a little too well and is towering over the others, although the LST is struggling to keep it at bay... While the one with the tissue pot has answered a little badly but he is recovering slowly

Hello everyone! I promised to track this grow very closely this time and ufortunately life got in the way. Here is a quick sumup of the grow. First of all- One of the sour stomper plants unfortunately didn't make it. It died at about week 4. The main stem somehow had rubbed/broken down. That's why it was falling down. It was almost like a mini beaver had chewed it off at the point where the stem touches the riot rooter. At first I thought nothing much of it, maybe it hasn't been rooted in quite well yet or something. And I was constantly touiching it when watering, that made it worse. Soo the leaves were dropping and the plant looked very weak. Then I decided cut thr rapid rooters top layer and found out the severity of the problem. Tried to tape it up and other things, but it was too late. At the end it appeared all good as the remaing plants got so big the I had some space issue so I wouldn't have been able to fit another plant in anyway. At that time I finally made my self-draining saucers. I took me a while and a lot of effort, but finally they were ready and working well. I also installed the self watering system and flowering was starting. Pretty soon I started noticing weird leaf symtoms. Brown spots, different kind. Some plants had it more, some less. Sour Stomper looked pretty good throughout the grow. Mango smiles seemed sensitive and Strawberry Nuggs were pretty strong until the end. The grow was basically me experimenting with the setup- changing watering schedules , changing ppm, ph and all that stuff to keep the leaves looking healthy and it was very hard I have to admit. Probably my hardest grow in that regard. But somehow, the bud leaves remained healthy and the buds really fattened up good. I got away with an amzing 700G dry bud harvest which was def a new record from one grow. And the bud quality is very good too! Next time definetly no more than 4 plants as they got pretty big and I thought it was a little overcrowded. I was doing some good defoliation too. I should have defolited strawberry nugs more tho. Sour Stomper got some amazing bud development from top to bottom because it was was growing next to strawberry nuggets which were really small most of the grow. They actually took the most time to harvest even longer than Mango smile. Mango smiles were ready quite early. Sour Stomper was just in time! I topped sour stomper and both Mangoi smiles, left SNs both normal. Looking back at it, the way I grow them, Should have topped SNs too. Would probably have more space in the middle and longer side branches. Probably wouldn't have been as bushy! I followed the full Terra aquatica feed chart until the end. I was supplementing with CalMag a lot as I thought the symptoms could have been from a CalMag deficiency as this was my first grow with RO water. Overall a very challenging but good grow at the end. First time no mold problems. A record breaking yield for me. Basically surpassed the upper limit for all plant probable harvest sizes. Got good smelling quality bud. Very happy overall and will continue experimenting with Mephisto beans in the future for sure! I guess what I like the most about Mephisto is how close to description the plant is, very stable genes in that regard. Next time I will also have to start feeding plants higher PPM feed faster at the very start. and during flowering. But still not 100% sure what caused the leaf symptoms.

Update coming.

Day 79, 28th of November 2020: Hi there! Here we go let's say half way. Plants are pretty these Original Sensible Seeds genetics are fantastic! The 2 OG and the Runtz Gum is very strechy. Black Ghost is pretty shorter bushier plant. Runtz Gum and Do-Si-Dos OG approx the same height Do-Si-Dos OG is taller a bit. Wedding Gelato is really cool little, bushy anf nice buds forming not problem with her all she is quiet. Do-Si-Dos OG has some deficiency and leaf gets dry but nothing very serious..... Fertilization is still the same every second day with the rationand mixture above stated. The lamp is on 11.15 min and off 12.45 min. Last week was 15 min longer light cycle.... So every week 15 min shorter light cycle until the 5th week. So far -45 min. It switches on at 6 am and off at 17.15 pm.

Harvest went pretty well big long, heavy dense colas very turkey sticky smokes really well has good flavor and smell overall was very happy with the strain

Week 3 still maintaining

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

The seeds germinated after 1-3 days, 1x runtz unfortunately did not germinate. 3 Days after the germination the plants were growing too quickly so I repot them them in deeper and increased the light intensity to 50% = 100 watts. When repotting in biobizz light mix, the plants were also given a load of Mykorrizah from Great white premium.

Coming all.

Beginning of week.. So I had to make a last minute decision to go ahead and put her into my 2x2x5 with the WAKYME J2000 at 50% power. Hovering about 12 - 14 inches above the canopy and recieving roughly about 700 μMols in the center down to 500 μMols around the edges.. So when I get the center to about 900 - 950 μMols.. The edges should still be getting a good 700+ μMols! Fucking awesome!.. Nothing like running an overkill light at lower power in order to keep temps down and also to help the lifetime of the components! So for the next 2 - 3 weeks I will be going 50/50 with FloraGro and FloraBloom while she begins to flower.. I dont like counting the transition weeks as flower, some phenos and genos can transition in 1 week.. Some in about 3 weeks.. Had one take almost 4 weeks!! But I don't care to count the transition weeks as flower.. So she is receieving only 12 hours of light as of today.. Will begin counting flower when I see she is for sure stretching and for sure packin on the pistils at the crowns. She is going to need some defoliation and ALOT of branches to be removed.. May still try to ScrOG this 2×2.. Lol.. That just sounds funny.. I forgot how tiny this 2x2 is. Kinda taller than normal 2x2s so that should help a little if I need to raise the light any... She barely fits in here lol.. Thats fine.. I just need to make sure she stays under a 2 foot stretch and everything else will be perfect for this girl.. Runoff is coming out perfect.. RH is... Meh lol.. Its good.. It hovers up and down alot with the AC cutting off and on.. Cant wait for cooler temps!!! I love the winter.. So much easier to keep temps down.. I will be defoliating within the next couple days.. So by next update she will look a little different.. But damn she is so beautiful! Lol Mid week.. So she has been lollipopped and branches adjusted a bit.. Not much else to report on.. Just waiting for the pistils to start poppin out of everywhere!.. Just 1 day after defoliation and she has noticeably filled out her canopy a bit! Can't wait can't wait CAN'T WAIT to see what this girl can do! End of week.. Seems like she is at the very beginning of stretching.. 2 days ago I removed some inner facing leaves and they have already been replaced by the next same facing node! Cant really notice it because her tops arent getting ridiculously close to the light.. But that is definitely a sign of her stretching soon. I'll even bet it's noticeable before the middle of next week. Well.. On to the next week!!!...

Flush next week

1 down 1 To go 497g wet ;)))))

12/8/20 día 21 de vegetativo Hoy comienzo el seguimiento de estas nenas de 21 días de edad. Hoy las he trasplantado a maceta de 7l ( hasta hoy han estado en macetas de 1l) que posiblemente será el contenedor definitivo, ya que será un vegetativo largo y con una nutrición suave como me gustan a mi. Hasta la fecha, las nenas sólo han bebido agua base más el enrraizante de Cyco (ryzofuel) que será la línea de nutrición que utilizaremos durante toda la cosecha. En el próximo riego ya empezaremos a añadir nutrientes de forma suave. Por el momento estamos con temperaturas de 25 grados, una humedad del 62 y regamos con una ec de 0,4 y un ph de 6,1. Actualizaremos varias veces por semana para manteneros informados, no os lo perdais. 14/8/20 día 23 de vegetativo Nuestras nenas se adaptan bien a su nuevo contenedor, no se observan muchos cambios pero todo sigue avanzando bien. Hacemos un riego preventivo con propolix ya que la botrytis es una amenaza constante en mi zona. El riego será de 0,5l por planta. Las temperaturas y humedad continúan sin cambios por el momento aunque en los próximos días espero que bajen un poco. En cuanto el sustrato esté seco comenzaremos la nutrición con la gama completa de Cyco platinum series que siempre me da grandes resultados (podéis verlos en Instagram en @galiforniaweeds). Seguiré actualizando el diario día si día no, no te lo pierdas, dela tu like y sígueme. Buenos humos y prósperas cosechas!! 16/8/20 día 25 de vegetativo. Las nenas avanzan sin sorpresas. He preparado un riego con los productos Cyco indicados más arriba. Es un riego con una nutrición suave de 0,65 de ec y un ph de 6,1. Las temperaturas rondan los 25 grados durante el día y 22 durante la noche, la humedad se mantiene entre un 60 y un 65%. La mayoría de las nenas han ganado un par de cms estos días, actualizare su altura cada semana En la tabla superior para poder comparar los avances. Dejad vuestros comentarios y likes compis. Buenos humos. 18/8/20 día 27 de vegetativo. Buenos días compañeros growers.todo avanza con normalidad en nuestro cultivo, las plantas de fortalecen y crecen día a día hoy hemos echo otro riego con los productos arriba mencionados, con una ec de 0,75 y un ph de 6,2. Las temperaturas han bajado un poco y están donde a mi me gustan, en unos 22,5 durante el día y a unos 20 durante la noche. Por otro lado la humedad está en un 63% con lo que las condiciones son las idóneas para un crecimiento estable. Arriba os he dejado una foto y un vídeo para que comprobéis El Progreso. Buenos humos y prósperas cosechas hermanos

Day 78 - Starting week 12 and will be giving her some water and nutes tomorrow. All is going well and gonna start keeping an eye on the trichs. She’s not really a big fat plant and I’ve never really had one grow so lengthy before but she’s definitely putting on same nice weight and an amazing smell. Day 79 - Gave her 2 gallons of water and nutes today, she was pretty dry and ready. Other than that, I’m just letting her go for now and I’m not needing to do much defoliating lately. Day 80 - No real updates today, just some updated daily pics. Not really having to do anything with this girl but feed her and let her dry out, then repeat. Day 81 - Nothing really new today, just letting her chug along. She will probably need some water in another day or so. Day 82 - Everything’s looking good still but just realized that she might be foxtailing just a bit. Not really a worry for me but thinking it’s from the stress of when I snapped her main branch early on in growth. It seems to only be on a couple buds towards the top but going to keep an eye on her trichs and probably start flushing her tomorrow. Day 83 - Gave her 2 gallons of water and nutes today. The way she’s looking, this will probably be the last feeding of nutes before flushing. Still quite a bit of clear trichs but quite a bit of milky in theee as well so thinking she’s got about 2 weeks or so left. Day 84 - The end of week 12 and she’s doing good. Really y’all and lengthy plant so trying not to take her out and move her too much anymore. Thinking she’s down to a couple weeks now so next feeding will be pH’d water only.

Hello again and welcome to week 5, the beginning of true flower! Ahsoka (her star wars name) is doing awesome with LST. Last week we tied down her main cola but this week her branches were long enough to Tie most of them down to. I will leaf tuck everyday to keep light on the budsites. Ashoka has finally hardened off properly and I moved her to the big tent since she is also in flower. She is under The Optic 8+ we still haven't had to feed any nutrients yet 🤞 but are giving real growers recharge as a microbial. As you can see her roots have just exploded with growth. Love this opaque container deal! The Optic 8+ is turned up full blast as well since we hardened her off by gradually bringing her into the tent Stats: Ohahu(not reccomended)4x4 tent 1gal water pitcher Fox farms happy frog soil Optic 8+ LED Durabreeze carbon filter 4" inline fan

This week looks very good flower of black cream are a little bit violet, all the plants are goods and very healthy...waiting to harvest... 😲🙄 Aggiornamento 1 novembre, le piante sono tutte in ottimo stato ho dato una bella sfoltita a tutte piante, facendo così arrivare luce a tutti i fiori.

On day 1 week 2 flower the Gals are really stretching now, hope I have enough room 😂They seem to be taking the flower nutes well even without a transition phase 😀. On day 3 the gals have stretched so much they are within 6 in of my light hoping The stretch will slow down soon yikes 😱. I defoliated the lower and upper canopy to bring in more light and air flow. On day 6 the stretch seems to be slowing down. I increased my light intensity from 75% to 100% to see if I can halt anymore stretching. I also bent my highest colas down as they were touching the grow light 😂. On day 7 flower clusters are forming and the stretch has slowed. I will continue to bend over the tallest colas and do my best to manage the canopy without too much loss of yield. It looks like some of my colas might get light stressed/burnt. There is not much else I can do except learn from my mistakes...next time I would flip the plants earlier and give them stronger light intensity before flowering stretch. The top leaves are canoeing so I reduced light intensity back to 75% to see if they improve. I got my first clog in my blumat systems main line... I will be switching to liquid based fertilizers for the next run as I believe my fertilizer caused the clog. I released the clog by using a pipette filled with water. I took the pipette and squeezed liquid through the main line exiting my reservoir. Then the lines were running smooth 😂