Training was hugely successful, and all colas are spaced nicely and pointing at the sky. Starting her out on early flower nutes this week. Feed pH 6.3, EC 1.4.

This girl came up. It's been a dry windy week.

Great genetics with the best nutrients always produces awesome results Every harvest continues to get better These ladies are healthy and happy

Blue cheese smelling lovely not much smell off the Sweet ZZ yet

I feel it!

Massive dense colas. Is definately going to be the biggest yield of the three.

• OCTOBER 3 ― 5 : 00 AM THE SEED WERE SOAKED IN " B I O R A G ". ( WHERE IT SPENT ABOUT 16 HOURS. ) • OCTOBER 3 ― 9 : 00 PM TRANSFER TO A COTTON PAD. • OCTOBER 5 ― 11 : 00 PM PLANTED IN THE SOIL. ✎ I USED DISTILLED WATER AND 3 MILLIGRAMS OF BIORAG FOR GERMINATION. ( 1 MILLIGRAM PER 100 GRAMS OF WOTER. 300 GRAMS IN TOTAL. ) TDC / PPM ― 7 " ბიორაგი • BIORAG " FACEBOOK ― https://www.facebook.com/bioorganicrevolution/ BLOG ― http://rgakhokidze.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html/

Got the guy separated and hopefully the other three are female so I can still flower two of them. Will be doing small pheno hunts with this strain in the future so ill be needing the seeds.

* ********* Week 11 - June 20 to 26, 2020 - Days 71 to 77 from germination *********** * It is the end of flush week and she went into darkness on Wednesday night, day 75, for two days. Saturday will be harvest day and start and the dry process👍 This week she continued to fill in and she also pushed out more frosty tricombs!! The fade happened this week more and she fed off of more of the nutrients within the plant.....perfect😃......would like a little more even but she was ready based on tricombs. Would like to have seen the lower leaves a little more yellow but its good. I am feeling very strongly that the big part of the pH issues this run was a change in feed water. I have always used bottled RO water for all my grows, except outdoors, but this grow I switched to tap water. Dechlorinated the water with air stone and gave it 24 hours min before using. Wanted to save some money and tired of lugging bottles downstairs a couple of times a week☹️ This is worked out nicely and a lot more convenient. However, the city must be putting some crap in the water that is causing issues in my media and raises the pH after the watering. Out of the tap it is 8.4pH and 275ppm. Since ppm were not too bad in my opinion I moved forward without filtering the water.......oops🤬🤬🤬 Out of options on what is causing the issue, I switched back to RO water late last week........all the girls are happier!!!! F......missed the cause for weeks. Always learning from this plant and my own mistakes to get better every run😉👍 Also wanted to add a little more stress to girl to help push out some increased resin. I drilled a 5/16” hole into the main stem to cause her stress. I did this rather than trying to break a branch and will see it goes this run. Sterilized a new bit in Alcohol and went for it. They went into darkness about a couple of hours later. Excited to see what happens when she comes out to get chopped😃😃 Not really a lot more to add this week as it was mainly looking at the tricombs and her buds. The pH will impact the harvest but she has been fun to grow and very resilient to pest and bug issues as well as grower curve balls. As always.......nice job Sweet Seeds....... SWS56 is very solid and I look forward to running her again one day. Beautiful little girl and makes me smile😃😃😃 Little more detail...... June 20/20 - Day 71 - Rezin and Liquid Weight @ 2ml/L = 285ppm and 4.0pH - 8L given to get a good flush....pH still running around 7.4 - Runoff in pots already were 7.9pH and 685ppm. - after 8L water runoff was 7.4pH and 360ppm. - she is 20” tall and 24” wide. - a number of clear tricombs but more becoming cloudy. June 21/20 - Day 72 - dry out day. - buds are firming up......squeezed a couple🧐 June 22/20 - Day 73 - Rezin @ 1ml/L = 120ppm and pH the water to 2.7!!!!!!!!! - Given 2L watering. - No runoff water and I am good with that as I want the low pH water to stay in the medium. - her frost levels are really coming out now.....was able to lower tent temps to 75 degrees and 51% humidity......its been raining a bit so damn humidity has been high. June 23/20 - Day 74 - 2L plain water feed - 80ppm and pH to 2.4!!!!!! - not excited about these crazy low pH numbers but doing what we can - her tops are getting more pointy now and ripening nicely - leaves continue to fade......she is close - checking tricombs, I think we are done and tomorrow will be her last day so that I can take down on Saturday. June 24/20 - Day 75 - 2L plain water feed - 80ppm and pH to 3.0 - Going into darkness tonight so this was her last bit of moisture. - drilled a hole into the stem.....was going to do a couple of holes but not trying this method before I decided to leave it with one hole. - into darkness tonight So we finish up the week with her in the dark. Next update will be the harvest!! Thanks very much for taking the time to review my diary!! Sorry for running behind often on this run.........everyone has had a busy life the last couple of months in the world and its been no different here...........a huge Kudos to all the Growmie‘s that are able to keep up with their diaries on daily basis on GrowDiaries.......its a commitment😃👍👍 Sweet Seeds girls are very solid genetics with great vigour and resilience.......this strain is no different........great job Sweet Seeds🙏

16.2 inches/week Usual summer week here in the south, every day above 86 ° F (max 100 ° F) Pineapple is beast, can tolerate everything and is grown almost 2 inches per day drinking 2 gallons per day of spring water showing only few signs of heat stress. She's in full stretch and had fill every spaces with her thick branches . I fed her half the recommended dose of Biobizz Grow 'cause is too hot and don't want to burn her. I think we are 10-14 days before flowering. I covered her with a PVC net in order to give her a little shield from the sun and give me more privacy ;-)

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This week is good buds site are forming out more with transiting plant n flowering one is get bigger n scent is starting to be more noticeable without touch

Tout se passe bien jusqu'à présent les pistils commencent à sortir j'ai préparé le sol avec des engrais en poudre organique au dernier rempotage. Irrigation a l'eau uniquement. Remplacement de la 400wMh pour 400w SHP.

welcome to one of the last episodes of the BIG Cheese twins chronicles! ...I cannot believe it either, but when i checked her trichomes this morning, with my microscope.. she is as good as done!!(the FAT, smaller one at least) So beautiful trichomes she has too.. a lot of them looked like lil' chuncks of cheese! (deep yellow, with spots on them 😁) But a lot of old cheese too (orange, brown) so think gonna chop her end of this week!(be4 it starts raining again..😎) Its finally sunny weather so gonna let her enjoy the sunshine some more 😎 dont think her sister is ready yet (the tall skinny one) but she will get there soon enough! She is covered with trichomes.. my camera had a hard time focussing in the buds so sprakly!!😻 So the next episode of the cheese twins chronicles will be a harvest!! Get your popcorn ready😁👊 happy growing for all✊

☀️ // Day 66 🍁 Chopping day Every grow must come to an end. Like I said in the Cookie Casket update, I can't be the only one who gets kinda sad when chopping down these plants. You take the best care you can for 4 months so that they're as happy and healthy as possible and from one day to the next, you kill them. That just breaks my heart, but that's how it is. I am telling myself that they basicially become a part of us through the endocannabinoid system, that actually helps haha This was my first grow with genetics from THC Titan. I had an amazing start, a very stressful mid section with mayor soil problems but in the end, it was a rather smooth sailing again. This plant was stabilized a week earlier than the Cookie Casket, that's why her leafs are not nearly as damaged. Overall, I am extremly happy with how this plant turned out. I expected a frost monster, but seeing that by myself in real life is just another experience. The trichome density and the thickness of the trichome heads is just unbelievable. I got a small bud pheno but I do not care at all about bud size. For me personally, buds need to be tight, rock hard and glistered with trichomes. As long as that is the case, I am happy WHEN IT COMES TO THE LOOKS. Of course, taste and effect is the most important aspect and I will tell you something about that in a month or so, when the final reviews come in. Another thing about the buds: The calyxes are extremly fat. 1 calyx from this plant equals 3-4 calyxes from the Cookie Casket plant and I just love that! It looks so amazing to me and the colors are also out of this world. A true deep purple. I cannot wait for their dryed look! Like I said, the review comes in about a month. I want to try them properly with a little cure in between. And I will update the review in months to come. So stay tuned for the harvest section. Thank you for hanging around here. I really love this community and I hope we all stick around for many years and experience this beloved hobby together! Peace, Ganjin 🌱

Super busy with a move and a big garden reno. Sorry, this is the only update for this week

Beginning of week 3 of flowering and plants are slowing there stretch down. I decided to let them come up into the second screen about a foot above the first screen. Second screen holes are twice as big as the first layer screen and is primarily to support the colas later in flowering. I stripped all the growth below the first screen so the plants won’t waste there energy on these lower beaches with no light under the canopy. I will be removing a few of the larger guard leaves later in the week on the top of the canopy to let light in to the lower shouts ready to come up, but not until after the plants recovers for a day or 2 from the bottom stripping. Smell is starting to ramp up, can really notice it strong when you open the tent now.

15/10/2024 Lights On! All looks well. She's drinking now just over 8L: Current feed schedule 5L/Lights On! 3L/Lights Off! It's apparent the 65L Pot is allowing her roots to stretch and feed more! It can be risky transplanting during early flower; 😬 looking back of my diaries, I mess this up. Looks like the fence steal bracket diy worked for multipurpose lol Will look for a better alternative later on! 16/10/2024 Lights On! Both Freaky Pablos 🤪 turned out to be males! I was going to mate them with bubblegum gpp. I think I'm best of making a full growing season for making seeds but like this. I've saved some of its ball sacs! "Blue Geleto 41 - Barney's Farm is ready for the switch 👌 in the indica tent! The Future is now drinking a little over 8L/24h in the 60L. She has taken the introduction of hollands feed well! "Time waits for one.....I just have a broken watch, so watch me wait for no one" 17/10/2024 Lights On! The Future is edging ever so slightly to close to the light! I may have to supercrop them. Leaves huge bigger than my hands ✋️ 🙌 😌 I have M/L, the leaves are like L/XL uk metrics "Blue Geleto 41 indica seems to be enjoying her room alone and can strectch out! Currently under a budmaster god 6 & 4 averaging about 550watts with 30dli under canopy! No uv leds installed on these budmasters for they are mostly used for vegging. Hopefully I should be able to use the spectrum king for her last 3 weeks of flower. I have two but I need to get a series 600 meanwell driver for it. The crop master needs some new leds soldered on for its lost a lot of its optics and efficacy. Meanwhile; I'm well footed in one of the pic lol head over heels 👠 😜 jokes 😃 18/10/2024 Lights On! 19/10/2024 Lights On! "I put my hand upon my hip! When I dip, you dip! I dip" 🎶 Blue Geleto 41, First defoliation of the switch! (Not expecting miracles under the veg lights) for flowering with! 20/10/2024 Lights On! Lite Defoliation and supercropped some colas; for last night she stretched 6cms. 21/10/2024 Lights On! 22/10/2024 Lights On! Dimmed: 530watts slite canoeing!

ya se ven las flores, riego cada tres días , y corto las hojas que están caídas solo .último día de la semana 9 ya se aprecian las flores