Hi, we’re back for week 3 of the vegetative stage. It’s not great… I decided to repot my plant into a larger container with a new nutrient-free substrate. I went for a coco-perlite mix and placed it in an 8.5-liter pot. The plant hasn’t really grown since last week, so I put it under an Autopot dome to maintain better humidity. As you can see when I zoom in, it’s struggling to get going, with very little visible growth. I kept the COB lighting to maximize vegetative growth while avoiding too much heat. Conditions are stable: around 25°C and 50% humidity in the grow tent. That’s not very high, so I added a small water tray to try to boost humidity a bit. For the parameters, pH stays around 6. I slightly increased EC to 1.2 and switched my base nutrients to the Athena line: Grow A, Grow B, and CalMag. Let’s see if these changes pay off next week. See you then, bye!

29.09.2024 Honey Cream Indoor 1/2 grew with out complications so I toopt her and trains her lower leaves out to create a even canapé. The other had to much water an the leaves start curling so I just let her recover and then I can top her as well and start training her leaves out l.

04/13/25: The plants have now fully adjusted to their new environment, and all five are looking vibrant and happy. Leaf posture is strong, color is rich, and the canopy is filling in nicely. They’re handling the training and topping well, showing no signs of stress, and overall growth has remained consistent. While inspecting them before today’s round of training, I noticed what appear to be early signs of male pre-flowers on PP1 and PP4. It’s still too early to be certain, but it’s looking like I may already be down to three possible females. I’ll be keeping a close eye on them over the next week—things should become much more clear soon. Today I topped all five plants again—this time at the first node of each of the four main branches created from the last topping. This will help build out a broader, more evenly structured canopy. I also used plant ties to gently pull down each of the branches to open up light penetration across the plant. In addition to branch training, I used ties to lightly hold back some of the larger fan leaves on the lower two branches to help expose new growth sites. I’ll leave those fan leaves on for another 3 to 4 days as the new tops develop, then remove them to redirect energy upward and continue opening the structure. They were also watered today with a light nutrient mix, similar to last week’s. The plants still look very nutrient-rich, so there was no need to push the EC any higher just yet. Based on the current rate of uptake, I expect they’ll be ready for another watering in about 3 to 4 days. If anything noteworthy comes up—especially regarding sexing—I’ll update sooner. Otherwise, I’ll be back in a few days to document a light defoliation and any continued developments.

Done final defoliation 3 days ago. Took 2 kg of leaf from 43 plants. Now they all fully exposed to the lamps. Latest to flower. Still stretching so will be quiet big.

I had to harvest early because it hermed.

The first week of this Strawbbery gorilla 🍓🦍 passed and here i have photos of her 11th day she growing good for 11 days and i had start give her first nutrients that are Hesi nutrients. Day 13 i saw difference in 2 days she growing every day enjoying the Marshydro Ts 600 as that is her first light in veg tent.

Well, the Grandaddy black hermed on me in the beginning of week 7 flower. Separated her immediately and did a flush bringing the ppm down from over 2k to around 500. Two days later she was harvested. A little blown she didn't finish up how I wanted her to. 2 more weeks she would of been ready. Trichomes were 5% amber 70% cloudy 25% clear.

She is going very well.. She is streched out and the buds are pulp.. Big Seedbank deliverd a very productive genetic... Smells amazingly citrusy... Fingers crossed all goes well 🙏

all looking good 👍

Dropped the 3 seeds in water bath with a little HESI rooting mix, little mycorrhizae. On a heat mat, covered for complete darkness. 24 Hr soak - then seeds moved into own Seed Germinator - Karl’s Bubatz Popper 😂 24 hrs after 22 degrees and 90-95% humidity seeds developed long enough roots to hit the soil. To avoid any chance of damage the cotton pads hit the soil too.

Week 4 – Blue Sunset Sherbert The plants are thriving in week 4 of flowering! 🌱 I added a layer of Greenhouse Feeding and Allmix on top to ensure they have enough nutrients until harvest. 🌿 The buds are swelling nicely, and resin production is clearly ramping up. ✨ The scent is also getting stronger, with noticeable citrus notes coming through 🍋. I slightly adjusted the light distance to optimize their development. 💡 Excited to see how they progress—stay tuned for more updates! 😎 --- Woche 4 – Blue Sunset Sherbert Die Pflanzen gedeihen prächtig in der vierten Blütewoche! 🌱 Ich habe eine Schicht Greenhouse Feeding und Allmix oben drauf gegeben, damit sie bis zur Ernte optimal versorgt sind. 🌿 Die Buds nehmen ordentlich an Größe zu, und die Harzproduktion wird immer intensiver. ✨ Auch der Geruch wird stärker – die Zitrusnoten sind schon deutlich wahrnehmbar 🍋. Ich habe die Lampenhöhe leicht angepasst, um das Wachstum weiter zu optimieren. 💡 Bin gespannt, wie es weitergeht—bleibt dran für mehr Updates! 😎

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!! 1/7/26 6:10AM...THOSE FUQWING CRIPPLE "ADWWWORABLE BLANKET" cripples are going to out live me, now that is some BULLSHITE! IM ALSO HAVEING ISSUES WITH A LARGE GROUP OF CERTAIN KIND OF PERSONSS...SO I HAD AN IDEA...BUT.....IT TURNS OUT THE GERMANS HAD THE SAME IDEA 80 YEARS AGO...AND I JUST DONT WANT TO BE THOUGHT OF AS A COPY CAT. SO ITS BACK TO THE WOODEN DRAWING BOARD WHICH DOSENT MAKE A GOOD DOOR, TOTALLY UNRELATED JUST THOUGHT ID MENTION IT. 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

1. Woche Blüte Gestern hat sie Grow, Bloom und Bloom booster bekommen nach Plan. Sieht heute auch ganz gut aus, Härchen sind über Nacht sprunghaft mehr und dicker geworden 💪. Der Geruch nimmt auch zu, momentan erinnert es an Salted Caramell 😅 38. Tag Hab jetz auch auf 16h Licht gewechselt, also quasi Tageslicht aber dank trübem Wetter noch mit Lampe unterstützt. Die Lampe geht kurz nach Sonnenaufgang an und mit dem Sonnenuntergang wieder aus.

Idhdb

Things are goin on as they should the girls are getting more bushy than tall which is what I wanted but everything is on cruise control. Only watering when soil is dry and I’m about to start giving them silica on a routine basis in low doses just for added nutrient uptake. Enjoy the pics and video and I will upload to YouTube once I’m done editing video. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated thanks and happy growings

Ok, lets think about this logically - why are the leaves turning brown? it looks like a Calcium/Phosphorus issue, A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE THIS , is it a deficiency??? Unlikely in Hydro as the solution is more effective as there are no contaminants, so this leads me to believe its a lockout, what can cause this ? 2 things = A) Too Much Nutrient Potassium or B) ph is too low - SO to rectify this, i have added more water to the reservoir and raised the ph to 6.3 As i am using more water in the reservoir its entirely possible that when the water goes down,even though the EC stays the same the proportional concentrations of each nutrient can change - for example EC pen says 2.0 when i first fill with 20 litres, the plant drinks 4 litres of water and consumes lots of bloom A+B so when i put my pen in two days later the 16 litres of solution still reads 2.0 but there is a higher proportion of PK. Of course it could always be option C) these plants eat phosphorus for breakfast and need more ..😜 I have checked roots they all ok Wednesday- changed solution , made it slightly weaker EC 1.7 ph 6.2-3 Thursday I had a little chat on Instagram with mammoth , i think they might need less than usual Saturday - noticed some yellowing on the little plant , it’s a confusing as th3 other plants are all using the same nutrients and they are loving life , it might be the buckets , I am much preferring the size of the 35 litre ones , and the root structure is perfect , because the 45 litre boxes are more rectangular than square the roots are sort of sideways . Still waiting for some purple on the tall one 🤔 ITS VERY IMPORTANT IN DWC - Do not automatically think you need to add nutrients , in DWC it’s so much more efficient that less is more , 99% of the time it’s overdone it , normally the tips go brown first , but it’s some circumstance s The concentration can increase without you knowing , FIRST change solution with a little bit less , I usually go to 1.6-1.7 EC TOTAL and 6.3 ph that is a universal solution that provides enough without overdoing it . Updated DAILY

Week 5 of flowering all is going well buds continue to develop.very frosty, sticky, smelly dense nuggets have managed to get her up 20cm closer to the light. Have also changed to Green planet nutrients